Katrina Rosales
Creating your own perfume can be a fun way to get your own signature scent. Perfumes are a blend of different levels of scent, also called notes. These notes are layered on top of a scentless carrier base, such as alcohol or oil, which helps to protect your skin and dilute the scents. The fragrance is then diluted with distilled water and bottled. The ideal ratio for blending notes is 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. Perfumes can be made using natural ingredients such as flowers, grasses, spices, fruit, wood, roots, resins, balsams, leaves, gums, and animal secretions, or synthetic ingredients such as aromatic chemicals.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Ingredients | Essential oils, absolute oils, botanical extracts, aromachemicals, alcohol, distilled water, glycerine, fragrance oils, carrier oil, raw materials |
| Equipment | Funnel, measuring cup, pipette, atomizer bottle, dark glass bottle |
| Storage | Dark, cool, dry place, away from light, heat and air |
| Notes | Top, middle, base |
| Top notes | Lemon, orange, grapefruit, lime, bergamot, spearmint, peppermint, mandarin, jasmine, rose, orange blossom |
| Middle notes | Coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, rosemary, rose geranium, pettitgrain, lavender, tagete, armoise |
| Base notes | Patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss |
| Families | Floral, oriental, woody, fresh |
| Carrier | Scentless base to carry chosen fragrances, e.g. alcohol, oils, waxes |
| Preservation | Antioxidants, e.g. Butylated hydroxytoluene |
| Shelf life | 3-6 months |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing a carrier agent: alcohol, oil, or wax
The carrier agent is a scentless base that will "carry" your chosen fragrances. It also helps protect your skin and dilute the scents. You generally don't want to apply perfume essential oils or fragrance oils directly to your skin, and a carrier agent is the best solution.
Perfumer's alcohol is a popular choice as a carrier agent. It can give the fragrance longevity and can be spritzed anywhere. Use alcohol that is 200 proof, as it is ideal for perfumes, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and cologne. Alcohol-based perfumes are generally comprised of essential oils, alcohol, and distilled water. Alcohol can be drying on the skin and may bother some skin types.
Oil was the original base for the first perfumes used by Greek and Roman people. If you opt for a carrier oil, consider jojoba oil or almond oil. Jojoba oil is a great option as it is light and similar to the natural oils your skin produces. It also absorbs quickly and won't leave your skin feeling greasy. Other popular carrier oils include fractionated coconut oil and witch hazel. Fractionated coconut oil is clear and thin, with a less greasy residue and an indefinite shelf life. Witch hazel acts as a natural preservative and helps oils blend evenly.
Waxes are also used as carrier agents, especially in candles, wax melts, massage oils, and lipsticks.
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Selecting essential oils
Understanding Fragrance Notes
Fragrances in perfumes are often categorized into three types of notes: top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Each type of note plays a specific role in the overall scent of the perfume. Top notes are the initial scent you smell when applying the perfume, and they disappear quickly, usually within 10 to 15 minutes. Examples of top notes include citrus scents like lemon, orange, and grapefruit, as well as spearmint and peppermint. Middle notes emerge after the top notes fade and form the heart of the fragrance. Examples of middle notes include coriander, palmarosa, lavender, and rose geranium. Base notes are the foundation of the perfume and appear after the middle notes, providing depth and longevity to the scent. Common base notes include patchouli, vetiver, and cedarwood.
Choosing Your Notes
When selecting essential oils for your perfume, consider the different notes you want to include. Choose top notes that appeal to you and create the initial impression of your fragrance. For middle notes, select scents that complement your chosen top notes and form the core of your perfume's scent. Base notes should be selected to enhance and fix the middle notes, making the fragrance last longer on the skin. It is recommended to use a combination of notes, with ratios such as 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes.
Sourcing Quality Oils
Essential oils can vary significantly in price and quality. Look for reputable suppliers that offer pure and high-quality essential oils. The source of the oils, such as the specific plant or flower, can impact the price. For example, some rare or exotic oils may be more expensive. Additionally, consider the seasonality and availability of the plant sources, as this can affect the price and quality of the oils.
Blending and Experimenting
Creating a harmonious blend of essential oils can be challenging and may require experimentation. Start with small batches and blend different oils in varying ratios to find combinations that appeal to your sense of smell. You can also refer to fragrance families, such as floral, oriental, woody, or fresh, to guide your selections and create a balanced fragrance.
Storage and Longevity
Essential oils are sensitive to light, heat, and air, so proper storage is crucial. Store your oils and perfumes in dark glass bottles, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. This will help preserve the scent and prevent deterioration. Additionally, consider using antioxidants, such as Butylated Hydroxytoluene, to extend the longevity of your fragrance.
Perfume making is a creative process, and selecting essential oils allows you to craft a unique fragrance. By understanding fragrance notes, sourcing quality ingredients, blending skillfully, and storing your creations properly, you can design a signature scent that appeals to your senses.
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Blending and mixing
Another important aspect of blending and mixing is creating harmony in your perfume. This can be achieved by adding scents from neighbouring families. For example, floral scents blend well with spicy, citrusy, and woody oils. Similarly, woody oils generally blend well with all categories of scents. Spicy oils pair well with floral, oriental, and citrus scents, but be careful not to overpower the blend. Minty oils are versatile and can be mixed with citrus, woody, green, and earthy oils.
The choice of carrier agent is also important when blending and mixing perfume. Common carrier agents include alcohol, oils, and waxes. Alcohol, such as vodka or perfumer's alcohol, gives the fragrance longevity and allows for easy application. However, it can be drying for sensitive skin types. Oils, such as jojoba or almond oil, are a great option as they are similar to the natural oils produced by the skin and absorb quickly without leaving a greasy residue.
Essential oils and fragrance oils are also key ingredients in blending and mixing perfume. Essential oils are natural and often have aroma-therapeutic properties, making them smell better. Fragrance oils, on the other hand, are synthesized for perfumery and are generally less expensive. Other ingredients to consider include infused oils, flavour extracts, and synthetic compounds like aldehydes and resins, which add unique aspects to the fragrance.
Once you have gathered your ingredients, the blending process involves combining them in precise measurements using tools like stirring rods, pipettes, measuring cups, and spoons. After blending, the mixture should be left to rest for a few days to several weeks in a cool, dark, and dry setting. This allows the chemicals to combine and enhances the fragrance. Finally, the fragrance can be diluted with distilled water and glycerine to help preserve it before bottling.
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Storing and ageing
Firstly, it is crucial to protect your perfume from light exposure. Store your perfume in a dark place, away from direct sunlight. Sunlight and ultraviolet light can alter the composition of your perfume, affecting its fragrance and quality. Avoid clear glass bottles, as they do not provide adequate protection from light. Instead, opt for opaque or tinted bottles, which help shield the liquid from light exposure. If using clear bottles, cover them with aluminium foil or wrapping paper to block out light.
Secondly, maintain a stable temperature for your stored perfume. Extreme temperatures, whether too hot or too cold, can negatively impact the scent and composition of your perfume. Avoid storing perfume in freezing conditions or places with frequent temperature fluctuations, such as a car glove compartment. A cool, temperature-controlled environment is ideal for preserving your perfume.
Additionally, aim to minimise oxygen exposure. After each use, tightly close the bottle to prevent oxidation, which occurs when the perfume's chemical composition interacts with oxygen. Avoid buying perfumes in bulk, as the pouring process increases oxygen exposure and the risk of contamination.
Lastly, maintain hygiene and cleanliness. Keep your perfume bottles away from dust and other contaminants, as these can lead to rapid spoilage. Ensure that your storage area is clean and free from moisture or humidity, as this can also impact the quality of your perfume over time.
By following these guidelines, you can effectively store and age your homemade perfume, ensuring that it retains its fragrance and properties for an extended period.
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Packaging and bottling
Bottling
Firstly, ensure your bottles are clean and dry. You can use a variety of bottles, but dark glass bottles are recommended as light can negatively affect the perfume oils, causing them to deteriorate faster. Clear glass bottles can also be used, but they must be covered with aluminium foil or wrapping paper to protect the fragrance from light.
Filling and Storing
Before filling your bottles, age your perfume mixture in a dark place for a week. This allows the fragrance oils and alcohol to blend effectively. After ageing, the perfume should be cooled and filtered before filling the bottles. Fill the bottles in a dark, cool environment, minimising exposure to oxygen.
Sealing and Labelling
Seal your bottles securely to prevent leakage and further oxygen exposure. If using a spray bottle, ensure the atomizer is properly attached. Label your perfume with a name or the fragrance notes used. You can use masking tape for experimentation or create custom labels for a more professional look.
Storage and Longevity
Store your bottled perfume in a cool, dry, and dark place, as heat, humidity, and light will cause the fragrance to deteriorate faster. Most handmade perfumes should be used within three to six months to ensure the best quality. To further preserve your fragrance, add a few drops of glycerine.
Additional Tips
- Always use high-quality alcohol (190-200 proof) for your perfume, as it ensures better scent projection and longevity.
- If using essential oils, opt for high-quality, pure oils to create richer and more complex fragrances.
- Consider using a carrier oil like jojoba oil or sweet almond oil, which are gentle on the skin and help dilute the fragrance.
By following these steps and tips, you can effectively package and bottle your perfume, ensuring its quality and longevity.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need essential oils, absolute oils, botanical extracts, and a carrier agent. The carrier is a scentless base that will carry your chosen fragrances. Popular choices include alcohol, jojoba oil, almond oil, and waxes.
First, add your base notes, then middle notes, and finally your top notes. The ideal ratio for blending notes is 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. Some recommend combining a maximum of 3 to 4 dominant notes.
Most handmade perfumes should be used within three months, and at the latest, within six months. To make it last longer, store it in a cool, dry, and dark place.
