Choosing The Right Cologne: A Guide For Beginners

how to pick cologne

Choosing a cologne can be a complicated process, but it's worth taking the time to find a scent that suits you. After all, a good cologne can increase your attractiveness and boost your confidence.

There are several factors to consider when selecting a cologne, including fragrance notes, fragrance families, and concentration. You should also think about the impression you want to make and the mood you want to evoke.

It's important to test out different colognes and get feedback from others before settling on one. And remember, less is more—you want your cologne to be discovered, not announced.

Characteristics Values
Fragrance notes Top notes, middle notes, base notes
Top notes Citrus, lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, mandarin, light floral, fruity, powdery, marine, aquatic, cinnamon
Middle notes Ylang-ylang, lemongrass, lavender, cinnamon, heavier floral, jasmine, green, grass, stone, clove
Base notes Sandalwood, moss, vetiver, vanilla, tar, leather, smoke, tobacco, musk
Fragrance families Woody, oriental, floral, fresh
Woody Vetiver, cedar, pine, sandalwood
Oriental Spices, herbs, florals, musk, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla
Floral Lilies, flowers, fruits, spice
Fresh Oceanic, bergamot, grass, herbs, citrus
Fragrance concentration Eau Fraiche, Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, Parfum
Scent occasion Seasonal, romantic, energetic, homely, passionate

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Understand fragrance notes

Fragrance notes are the individual components of a perfume that, when combined in a certain concentration, create an overall scent. These notes are chosen from different parts of the fragrance wheel and can be grouped into three categories: top notes, middle notes (heart notes), and base notes.

Top Notes

Top notes are the lightest and most volatile of all the fragrance notes. They make up the first impression of a fragrance, forming its initial olfactory signature. The top note is often made up of citrus or spicy scents that evaporate quickly once applied to the skin, lasting 5-15 minutes. Popular top cologne notes include bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, orange zest, cardamom, lavender, jasmine sambac, and peppermint.

Middle Notes (Heart Notes)

The middle, or heart, notes form the body of a perfume composition. These come through after the top note evaporates and typically last 3-5 hours on your skin. Common heart notes in perfumery include floral notes like rose, jasmine, carnation, and ylang-ylang.

Fruity scents such as peach, apple, blackcurrant, and pineapple are also popular middle notes. Spicy notes such as cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon can also be used.

Base Notes

The base notes in perfume form the foundation of fragrance composition and provide it with staying power on your skin. These are usually richly aromatic ingredients that last for 8 hours or more after application to the skin.

Common examples of base notes used in perfume-making include sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, and musk. These base note scents create a lasting, woody, and musky aroma.

Fragrance Families

Fragrance families are another important concept used in perfume composition. These refer to broad groupings of scents based on their common characteristics. Examples include floral, fruity, woody, oriental, and fresh/aquatic families. These different scent profiles often inspire perfumers when creating a new perfume.

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Identify fragrance families

When it comes to choosing a cologne, it's important to identify the fragrance families that resonate with you. This will help you find a scent that suits your unique character and lifestyle.

Fragrance families are categorised based on their dominant notes and characteristics. Here are the main fragrance families and the types of scents they encompass:

  • Citrus Family: This family includes light and invigorating scents that are perfect for warm, sunny days. Citrus notes are refreshing and uplifting, making them ideal for the spring and summer seasons. Examples include mandarin, bergamot, and fruity notes like peach, pear, and apple.
  • Floral Family: The floral family is versatile and delicate, making it suitable for almost any occasion where subtlety is key. These scents offer a touch of femininity and can be appreciated by both men and women. Floral scents are often associated with fresh-cut flowers or have a powdery note to them.
  • Woody Family: Scents in the woody family are earthy and robust, providing a sense of grounding masculinity. Woody notes are perfect for colder months, offering warmth and comfort. Examples include sandalwood, patchouli, cedar, and vetiver.
  • Spicy Family: The spicy family includes rich and exotic scents that are perfect for evenings and special occasions when you want to make a statement. These notes are bold and impactful, designed to help you stand out.
  • Musky Family: The musky family is characterised by bold and sensual notes that often serve as the foundational base for a cologne, giving it staying power. These scents are enduring and can be combined with other fragrance families to create a well-rounded fragrance wardrobe.
  • Oriental Family: The oriental family consists of rich, exotic scents such as herbs, spices, and dry, powdery, or resin notes. These scents are often softened with amber or sweet notes like cinnamon and vanilla. Oriental fragrances are commonly described as exotic and seductive.
  • Fresh Family: The fresh family includes clean and bright scents such as herbal, citrusy, and oceanic notes. These fragrances are typically paired with spicy notes to create a more robust scent. Aromatic, tart, zesty, and fruity notes can also be found within this family.

When choosing a cologne, consider your personal preferences and the context in which you'll be wearing it. The fragrance family you choose will depend on factors such as the season, occasion, and your skin chemistry. It's important to sample different fragrances and trust your instincts to find the perfect scent that reflects your individuality.

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Research scents and their ingredients

Researching fragrances is a great way to discover new scents and find the perfect fit. Understanding the ingredients that comprise each note can help identify the elements that most appeal to you and narrow down your search.

There are five fragrance classes, each with a different concentration of fragrance and alcohol:

  • Parfum: The highest concentration of fragrance and the least alcohol. Parfum has the most prominent scent and lasts the longest after application.
  • Eau de parfum: The second-highest concentration, lasting 8-12 hours.
  • Eau de toilette: A delicate scent with a higher proportion of alcohol. This type lasts around three hours and is often more affordable.
  • Eau de cologne: With a lower concentration of fragrance than eau de toilette, this typically lasts for two hours.
  • Eau fraîche: The lowest concentration of fragrance, blended with water, making it perfect for sensitive skin.

Within these fragrance classes, there are four prominent fragrance families: woody, oriental, floral, and fresh. Woody scents are warm and comforting, with notes of vetiver, cedar, and pine. Oriental scents are exotic and intricate, often featuring warm spices, herbs, light florals, musk, sandalwood, and patchouli. Floral scents are indicative of spring and summer, with bouquets of lilies, fresh flowers, fruits, and aromatic spices. Fresh scents are green, tart, and fruity, with oceanic tones, zesty bergamot, grass, and raw herbs.

When researching fragrances, it's also important to consider how they will interact with your body chemistry. Factors such as skin type, pH level, water or melanin content, and natural body odour can influence how a perfume smells on you. For example, oily skin and darker skin tend to retain scents longer and pair well with oriental, heavy fragrances or those with spices, sweetness, floriental, balsamic, musky, and leathery notes. On the other hand, dry, fair, and acidic skin may be better suited to citrusy, green, ozonic, aromatic, fruity, floral, and woody notes.

Additionally, understanding the different components of a perfume can help you make an informed decision. Perfumes are typically composed of top notes, heart notes, and base notes. Top notes are light and volatile, designed to greet your senses. Heart notes are a bit heavier and form the core of the fragrance. Base notes are the heaviest ingredients, providing depth and longevity.

By researching the different fragrance families, understanding the interplay of notes, and considering how perfumes interact with your body chemistry, you can make an informed decision about which cologne suits your unique preferences and style.

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Pick a scent to evoke the desired mood

Picking a cologne is a very personal choice. The scent you choose should amplify your confidence and leave an unforgettable impression. It should also align with the mood, occasion, and season you have in mind.

When it comes to fragrance notes, colognes can be broadly categorised into various scent components, each offering a unique contribution to the overall aroma:

  • Citrus notes are light and invigorating, perfect for warmer months when a refreshing scent is most appealing.
  • Floral notes are delicate and versatile, offering a touch of femininity that can be appreciated by both men and women, making them adaptable to various settings.
  • Woody notes are earthy and robust, resonating well in colder months and offering a sense of grounding masculinity.
  • Spicy notes are rich and exotic, ideal for evening wear and special occasions when you want to make a statement.
  • Musky notes are bold and sensual, often serving as the foundational base that gives a cologne its staying power.

These fragrance families can be further grouped based on their dominant notes:

  • Citrus Family: Light and invigorating, ideal for sun-drenched days.
  • Floral Family: Versatile and delicate, suitable for almost any occasion where subtlety is key.
  • Woody Family: Grounding and masculine, perfect for cold weather.
  • Spicy Family: Exotic and impactful, designed for evenings or events where you aim to stand out.
  • Musky Family: Sensual and enduring, often serving as the anchor that gives a fragrance longevity.

When picking a cologne, it's important to consider the desired mood and occasion. For example, a romantic dinner calls for a different scent than a business meeting. The intensity of the fragrance also plays a key role, with some people preferring a subtle scent while others opt for a more assertive fragrance.

Additionally, seasonal nuances come into play. Light, refreshing fragrances are typically preferred during warmer months, while colder seasons are a backdrop for spicier, more robust aromas.

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Explore and experiment

The best way to choose a cologne is to smell it on your skin. The scent can change once applied due to your skin's unique pH level or individual dietary differences.

Pulse points, where veins run close to the skin, provide the fragrance with warmth, allowing the scent to develop faster and reveal its true depth.

When testing a cologne, try it on your skin to experience its full evolution and how it interacts with your unique body chemistry. Avoid applying to your clothes or paper strips as you won't get accurate results.

Apply a small amount of fragrance to pulse points to avoid overpowering others and gradually increase the amount if needed.

Try wearing the fragrance on several occasions and in different environments to test its performance and longevity.

Pair the cologne with different scents to see if it can be layered with other fragrances.

Ask others what they think about your choice to make sure the scent is pleasant and isn't overwhelming.

Online Resources

Visit popular websites like Fragrantica, Basenotes, Parfumo, and WikiParfum to read fragrance reviews, compare scents, and explore fragrance families.

Discovery Sets and Subscription Sample Companies

Purchase discovery sets that offer a variety of samples to try before committing to a full bottle. Subscribe to sample subscription services to receive monthly deliveries of different fragrances.

Frequently asked questions

It's important to remember that everyone has a unique body chemistry, and a cologne that smells great on someone else might not smell the same on you. The best way to choose a cologne is to test it on your skin and wear it for a full day, paying attention to how it develops over time. Ask friends and family for their opinion, but ultimately, you have to love the fragrance you are wearing.

Fragrance is a generic term used for perfume. The different categories refer to the concentration of oils in the solution, which affects how long the fragrance lasts. Parfum has the highest concentration of oils, followed by eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne.

Spray perfume on dry skin, preferably right after a shower. Hold the nozzle 3-6 inches from your skin and start with one single spray on your chest. You can then branch out to a few more sprays in different areas, such as your neck, lower jaw, wrist, forearm, inner elbow, and shoulder.

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