Heidi Norton
Making perfume with fragrance oils is a fun and creative process that allows you to design your signature scent. It's easier than you might think and only requires a few basic ingredients and tools. The key ingredients are fragrance oils or essential oils, and a carrier such as alcohol or a carrier oil like jojoba or sweet almond oil. You can experiment with different combinations of oils and scents to create unique fragrances, but it's important to be cautious and do your research as some essential oils may not be safe for skin. The ratios of the notes in your perfume are also important, typically consisting of 2 parts base, 1 part heart, and 1 part head, with the rest being the carrier. With some patience and experimentation, you can become a master perfumer and create your own natural, handmade fragrance.
How to make perfume with fragrance oils
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Base | Essential oils, synthetic scents, fragrance oils, aroma molecules, alcohol |
| Container | 5ml bottle, preferably with a roll-on ball |
| Tools | 4 pipettes or glass droppers, funnel, spray bottle |
| Carrier | Jojoba or Sweet Almond Oil |
| Ratios | 2 parts base, 1 part heart, 1 part head, the rest is carrier oil |
| Concentration | 20-80% concentration of essential/fragrance oils to carrier |
| Mixing | Mix 40ml of perfumer's alcohol with 10ml of fragrance oil |
| Storage | Store in a dark place for a week or more |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right fragrance oils
Skin Safety:
It is important to choose fragrance oils that are safe to use on the skin. Some essential oils may not be suitable for direct skin contact, so be sure to research and look up any health advisories before making your choice.
Scent Character:
Fragrance oils can be categorized into four primary fragrance families based on their notes: Floral, Oriental, Woody, and Fresh. Floral fragrances typically feature bouquets of flowers in both the top and middle notes. Oriental scents often include notes like musk, spices, and amber. Woody fragrances emphasize notes such as cedarwood and leather. Fresh fragrances capture scents reminiscent of nature, like coconut, tropical blossoms, or fresh laundry. Consider which fragrance family or combination of families aligns with the scent profile you wish to create.
Concentration and Longevity:
Perfume oils are highly concentrated, which is why they are often sold in smaller quantities. A little goes a long way, and these oils can be more cost-effective than standard eau de parfums. When creating your perfume, consider the concentration of the fragrance oil and the ratio of oil to carrier liquid to ensure the scent's longevity.
Mixing and Blending:
If you plan to mix and blend multiple fragrance oils, be mindful that some fragrance oils may already contain filler ingredients or chemical blends. Mixing certain oils can result in a muddled or generic scent. It may be advisable to use a single fragrance oil and dilute it with perfumer's alcohol to create a unique scent profile.
Personal Preference:
Ultimately, fragrance is a personal choice. Choose fragrance oils that appeal to your senses and reflect your personality or the mood you wish to evoke. Trust your instincts, and don't be afraid to experiment with different oils to find the perfect combination for your signature scent.
With these considerations in mind, you can begin exploring the vast array of fragrance oils available to craft a perfume that is truly yours.
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Using a carrier oil
Carrier oils, also known as base oils, are a crucial component when creating your own perfume. They serve as the foundation upon which essential oils are built, diluting and carrying the scent of the fragrance oils, and allowing them to be safely applied to the skin. The right carrier oil can ensure that the perfume adheres to the skin and evolves gracefully over time.
There are a variety of carrier oils to choose from, each with unique characteristics, so you can tailor your perfume to your preferences and skin type. For example, if you have dry skin, richer oils like jojoba, sweet almond oil, or virgin coconut oil are a good choice, whereas if you have oily skin, a lighter oil like grapeseed oil is a better option. Jojoba oil is a popular choice as it closely resembles the skin's natural sebum, ensuring excellent absorption and compatibility with various skin types. It is also highly stable, which means that the fragrance it carries will maintain its integrity over extended periods. Sweet almond oil is also rich in fatty acids and vitamins, making it nourishing for the skin, and perfumes formulated with it are often celebrated for their soft and subtle scent.
Other carrier oils include sunflower oil, which has a mild aroma, providing a neutral base for various essential oils, allowing the top notes to shine. Mango seed oil has a great exotic mango aroma and a light texture that ensures easy absorption, making it an excellent choice for daytime and summer-inspired perfumes. Rosehip oil is derived from the seeds of wild roses and is renowned for its elegant and delicate scent, adding a touch of sophistication to fragrances.
The ratio of carrier oil to fragrance oil will depend on the desired strength of your perfume. A general ratio is 80:20, with 80 drops of carrier oil and 20 drops of essential oil, but you can add more or less carrier oil according to your taste.
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Mixing with alcohol
Mixing fragrance oils with alcohol is a great way to make perfume at home. The process is fairly simple and allows you to express your personality in a unique and fragrant form.
Firstly, you need to gather your materials. You will need fragrance oils, perfumer's alcohol, a bottle to store your perfume, and a workspace. It is important to ensure that your workspace and bottle are clean before you begin.
When choosing your fragrance oils, consider the different notes that you are drawn to. Top notes are the scent's first impression and are usually light and evaporative, such as citrus or herbs. Middle notes, or heart notes, form the core of the perfume and take longer to develop on the skin, with examples including floral or fruity scents. Base notes last the longest and give depth to the perfume, such as woodsy or resinous scents. A good rule of thumb to follow is the "30-50-20 rule", which includes 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes.
Once you have selected your fragrance oils, it is time to start mixing. For a standard mixture, use about 10-30% fragrance oil in total. If you are using an essential oil, a good starting point is 15-20% oil, while a cologne might use 3-5% oil for a lighter fragrance. If you are using fragrance oil, you can start with a ratio of 3ml of fragrance to 30ml of perfumer's alcohol (about 10%). You can always add more or less fragrance oil depending on the strength you desire. Simply swirl gently to mix.
After mixing, let your perfume sit in a cool, dark place for at least 48 hours up to a month. This aging process allows the oils to meld with the alcohol, enhancing the depth and longevity of your fragrance. During this time, the scent may change, so feel free to add a few more drops of scent to tweak it. However, if you add more scent, you will need to let it age again.
Finally, once your perfume has matured, it is time to filter out any sediment using a coffee filter or a fine mesh strainer. Then, funnel the liquid into your final storage bottle, preferably dark glass, to protect the oils from light. Your custom perfume is now ready to wear and enjoy!
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Ratios of notes
When creating a perfume, the ratios of the notes are important to ensure a harmonious and long-lasting aroma. The three main layers of scents in perfumery are the top, middle, and base notes, which together form the foundation of every fragrance.
Top notes, which create the first impression of a scent, typically make up 20-40% of the formula. They offer a fresh and inviting opening to the perfume. Middle notes, which form the heart of the fragrance and provide depth, should comprise about 50-75% of the blend. Lastly, base notes account for 5-10% of the perfume, ensuring that the scent lingers on the skin and provides a strong foundation. These ratios serve only as a guideline, and slight variations can lead to unique creations. For example, a balanced essential oil blend might include bright citrus top notes such as Bergamot or Lemon, floral or herbal middle notes such as Lavender or Geranium, and deep, grounding base notes like Sandalwood or Vanilla.
When making a perfume with fragrance oils, it is important to note that fragrance oils can contain synthetics and have already been diluted in a carrier oil, making them less irritating to the skin. Essential oils, on the other hand, should be chosen carefully, taking into account any health advisories as not all of them are skin-safe.
The ratios of notes in a perfume can be adjusted according to personal preference and the desired strength of the fragrance. For a lighter perfume, a lower percentage of fragrance oils can be used, while a stronger perfume would require a higher concentration of fragrance oils.
It is also important to consider the type of alcohol used in the perfume. While regular alcohol, vodka, or grain alcohol can be used, they may not blend well with oils and may have a pronounced smell. Instead, perfumers' alcohol, such as SDA 40B ethyl alcohol, is recommended. Additionally, the use of distilled water is optional but may make the perfume cloudy.
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Storing and ageing
Storing your perfume in the correct manner is essential to preserving its captivating scent and maintaining its quality. The aromatic delights of fragrance oils can make all the difference when it comes to finding time to relax at home, so it is important to follow some key guidelines to maximise their shelf life and keep them safe.
Firstly, it is crucial to choose the right type of bottle for your perfume. Dark, cobalt, and amber glass bottles are ideal for storing fragrance oils as they protect the oil from UV rays and heat sources. The dark glass helps to keep the oil cool and shaded, thereby preserving its composition and effectiveness for a longer period. Avoid using plastic bottles for long-term storage, as the fragrance oil can slowly dissolve the plastic, compromising the integrity of the oil.
The optimal storage location for your perfume is a cool, dry, and dark place, such as a cupboard, shelf, or drawer, that shields the oil from direct sunlight and indoor heat sources. The bathroom is not an ideal storage location due to its extreme humidity and temperature fluctuations, which can negatively impact the perfume's longevity. Instead, opt for a closet or cupboard outside the bathroom. Additionally, consider storing your perfume in its original box, as this can significantly extend its lifespan.
To further extend the freshness of your perfume, you can store it in the fridge, ensuring a cool, dark, and consistently cool environment. Just remember to take the perfume out of the fridge 1-2 hours before application to allow it to warm up slightly.
Another factor to consider is the amount of oxygen exposure. Over time, oxygen can oxidise the oil, altering its aromatic properties and shortening its shelf life. To mitigate this, transfer your perfume to a smaller bottle when it is halfway full to reduce the oxygen 'headspace'. Always secure the lid tightly after each use and avoid using unsterilised items, such as cotton balls, that may come into contact with the oil.
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