Heidi Norton
Creating perfume is an art form that involves a symphony of scents, and there are many courses available for those who want to learn this craft. The first step in creating a fragrance is to create or be presented with a brief, which is the creative starting point. Then, you must be able to describe what you are smelling, and group similar ingredients together. Courses are available for absolute beginners or as refresher courses, and some are taught by veteran perfumers such as AbdesSalaam Attar, who teaches a 6-day intensive perfume workshop in Italy.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Course length | 5 days, 6 days, 12 weeks |
| Course content | History of perfumery, fragrance families, ingredients, formulation, testing, making perfume, quality assessment of ingredients, spreadsheets |
| Teaching style | Practical tutorials, theory, video tutorials, workbooks, presentations, spiritual, personalised, multidisciplinary |
| Student community | Private student discussion group, student shop |
| Perfumery experience | Over 50 years |
| Perfumery recognition | CPD-certified, UK independent perfumer, fragrances worn worldwide including by Queen Elizabeth II |
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What You'll Learn
Understanding fragrance families
Fragrance families are groups of scents that share similar characteristics. They are a way to classify and categorise the thousands of ingredients available to perfumers. Categorising ingredients by fragrance family is not a strict rule, and many ingredients have facets that belong to multiple families, so each perfumer may group ingredients differently in a way that suits them.
Fragrance families include floral, oriental, woody, chypre, fougere, leather, citrus fresh, spicy, musky, and fruity. Accords, or harmonious blends of two or more materials, can be created from materials in the same family, such as all citrus or all woody, or from materials in different families, such as woody and spicy, or floral and green. Perfumers can also create accords with the same level of volatility, such as all top notes or all base notes, or a combination of top, middle, and base notes.
When creating a fragrance, perfumers must first create or be presented with a brief, which is the creative starting point for the fragrance. If creating their own fragrances, independent perfumers can make their briefs as simple or creative as they like. For example, they may wish to create a fresh, citrus fragrance with notes of cotton and clean white musks, or a fragrance based on a feeling or memory. Once the brief is decided, the perfumer can select ingredients that will help bring their idea to life.
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Creating a brief
Before you begin to work on a fragrance, you must create a brief, which is the creative starting point for your perfume. A brief can be simple or creative, depending on your preference. For example, you may wish to create a fresh, citrus fragrance with notes of cotton and clean white musks, or you may want to create a fragrance inspired by a feeling or memory.
When creating a brief, it is important to consider the type of fragrance you want to create. Fragrances can be classified into different families, such as floral, woody, spicy, fruity, or musky. You can also consider the volatility of the ingredients, such as top, mid, and base notes. Top notes are the first impression of the fragrance and are usually light and fresh. Mid notes, also known as heart notes, emerge once the top notes evaporate and provide the main body of the fragrance. Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance and help to anchor the lighter notes, providing depth and longevity.
Another aspect to consider when creating a brief is the target audience for your perfume. Are you creating a fragrance for men, women, or a unisex audience? Are there specific age groups or demographics you want to target? Understanding your target audience will help you tailor your fragrance to their preferences and needs.
Additionally, think about the occasion or purpose of your perfume. Is it meant for everyday use, special occasions, or a specific season? For example, you may want to create a light and refreshing fragrance for summer days or a warm and spicy fragrance for cosy winter nights.
Once you have created your brief, you can start selecting the ingredients that will bring your vision to life. This may involve sourcing ingredients from reputable suppliers or experimenting with different combinations of notes to create a unique blend. Remember to consider factors such as cost, availability, and sustainability when choosing your ingredients.
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Selecting ingredients
Understanding Fragrance Families
Firstly, familiarize yourself with the concept of fragrance families. Fragrance families are groups of ingredients that share similar olfactory characteristics. Common fragrance families include floral, woody, spicy, fruity, and musky. Understanding these families will help you create a harmonious blend. For example, combining scents from neighbouring families, such as floral and oriental, can result in a well-rounded perfume.
Selecting a Theme
Before selecting specific ingredients, it is essential to establish a theme or concept for your perfume. This can be as simple as deciding on a fresh, citrus fragrance or as creative as evoking a particular feeling or memory. Your theme will guide the selection of ingredients that best embody your desired scent profile.
Choosing Base, Middle, and Top Notes
Perfumes are typically composed of base notes, middle notes, and top notes. Base notes form the foundation of the perfume and include scents like sandalwood, patchouli, and cedarwood. Middle notes are the heart of the fragrance and determine its theme, with examples such as rose, jasmine, and lavender. Top notes are the initial scents you smell, which fade quickly, and can include coriander, basil, and rosemary. When mixing your perfume, add the base notes first, followed by the middle and then the top notes.
Working with Essential Oils
Essential oils are a popular choice for perfume-making. When selecting essential oils, consider their health advisories, as not all are safe for direct skin contact. You can blend different essential oils to create a unique aroma, but be prepared to experiment as blending oils can be challenging. It is also crucial to dilute essential oils in alcohol before smelling them, as this enhances the accuracy of scent evaluation.
Using Carrier Oils
Carrier oils are important to help merge the different notes in your perfume. Popular options include sandalwood, jojoba, sweet almond, and grape seed oil. These oils act as a base for your perfume and help to soften and blend the various scents.
Aging and Diluting Your Fragrance
After combining your chosen ingredients, it is essential to let your fragrance age. Place it in a cool, dark location for at least 48 hours up to several weeks. Aging allows the scents to mingle and intensify. Once aged, dilute your perfume with distilled water and a preservative like glycerine.
Perfume-making involves creativity, experimentation, and a keen sense of smell. By selecting ingredients that align with your desired theme and understanding the role of different notes, you can craft a captivating and harmonious fragrance.
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$16.99
Spirituality and perfumery
The art of perfumery has been linked to human civilisations for thousands of years, with scent recognised as a powerful tool that can transcend the physical realm and connect us to the spiritual. In ancient times, perfumes were associated with various aspects of life, including the spiritual, medicinal, social, and cultural. Today, the practice of perfumery continues to be a significant part of modern culture, with scents often revealing our personalities, tastes, and emotions.
The spiritual use of scent has taken many forms throughout history, with fragrance considered sacred in many cultures. The word "perfume" itself is believed to originate from the Latin "per fumus", meaning "through smoke", reflecting the ancient practice of burning aromatic herbs and incense to produce pleasant smells. Ancient civilisations such as the Egyptians and Mesopotamians are believed to have formulated flowers and herbs into oils, creating perfumes that were renowned in the ancient world.
The inherent magic of fragrance is recognised by spiritual workers and healers, who understand the power of scent to shift energy, invoke emotions, and trigger memories. Scent plays a significant role in spiritual practices, creating sacred spaces and facilitating a deeper connection to the spiritual realm. For example, burning incense is a common practice used to honour ancestors and connect with the divine.
Natural perfumery, in particular, holds a spiritual connection with plants, recognising the healing power of nature. Spiritual perfumery invites the healing spirits of nature into elixirs, creating transformative blends that elevate rituals and connect us to the divine.
Learning the craft of perfumery involves understanding how to describe and classify scents, as well as how to select ingredients that bring creative visions to life. By exploring the different facets of ingredients and categorising them by fragrance families, perfumers can create unique blends that transcend the ordinary and inspire magical experiences.
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Fragrance evaluation
To start evaluating a fragrance, it is important to first allow the alcohol in the perfume to evaporate. This is because the zingy fumes of alcohol can quickly saturate and block your nose, leading to nasal fatigue. Once the alcohol has evaporated, you can inhale and evaluate the scent. It is recommended to test perfume on your skin, as this will allow you to understand how the fragrance reacts with your body chemistry. However, skin testing should only be done after you have shortlisted fragrances using blotters or paper strips.
When testing fragrances, it is important to be mindful of nasal fatigue or "nose blindness". This occurs when your nose becomes oversaturated with scent, causing all fragrances to smell the same. To avoid this, it is recommended to test no more than three fragrances at a time, and to take breaks in between. Rather than using coffee beans to cleanse your palate, it is suggested to smell your own skin or clothes, as this will provide a more accurate reset.
Developing your sense of smell is an important aspect of fragrance evaluation. This can be done through specific exercises, as well as by visiting exhibitions and museums to discover new launches and iconic fragrances. Additionally, understanding the structure of a perfume, including the main olfactive groups and subgroups, will enhance your ability to evaluate and create fragrances.
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Frequently asked questions
Learning how to describe what you are smelling is the first step to making perfume. This is a challenging task as we often rely on "I like it" or "I don't like it" when describing scents.
Once you can describe what you are smelling, you must learn to group similar ingredients together. This is done by olfactive characteristics, volatility (top, mid and base notes) and type (natural, molecule and accords).
Before beginning to work on a fragrance, a perfumer must create or be presented with a brief. A brief is the creative starting point from which every fragrance is born.
Once you have a brief, you can select ingredients that will help bring your idea to life. For example, if you want to create a fresh and clean fragrance, you would select some citrus notes, transparent florals and clean white musks.
Yes, there are several in-person perfume-making courses available. For example, Grasse Institute of Perfumery in France offers courses for professionals and enthusiasts. There are also perfume-making workshops in the UK and Italy.
