Heidi Norton
Oud perfume is derived from agarwood, a tropical evergreen tree of the Aquilaria species. When the tree is infected by a specific type of fungus, it releases a dark, sticky resin to protect itself. This resin alters the colour, aroma, and composition of the heartwood, transforming it into a substance known as oud. To create oud oil for perfume, artisans extract the resin by melting it or distilling the resinous wood. The distillation process involves softening the agarwood chips in water, heating the mixture, and then collecting and purifying the resulting oud oil. This time-consuming and labour-intensive process yields a highly valued product with a distinct fragrance profile, making oud one of the most sought-after and expensive perfumes globally.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Source | Agar tree (Aquilaria species) |
| Tree Origin | India (Assam) |
| Tree Infection | Fungus (parasitic mould) |
| Resin Location | Heartwood |
| Resin Characteristics | Dark, sticky, aromatic |
| Oud Formation | Resin hardens over time |
| Oud Extraction | Melting resin or distilling wood |
| Distillation Methods | Water/hydro, forced steam |
| Oil Purification | Sunlight exposure |
| Oil Uses | Perfume, incense |
| Oil Notes | Warm, spicy, woody, balsamic |
| Commercial Bases | Black Agar Givco, Oud Synth |
| Natural Supplements | Cypriol, cedar |
| Synthetic Supplements | Kephalis, cashmeran, sandalwood synths |
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What You'll Learn
The origin of oudh/agarwood
Agarwood, commonly referred to as oud or oudh, is a fragrant, dark, and resinous wood used in incense, perfume, and small hand carvings. It is produced by trees of the Aquilaria species, which are large evergreens native to Southeast Asia and South Asia.
The formation of agarwood occurs when Aquilaria trees become infected with a type of fungus, typically the Phaeoacremonium mold P. parasitica. As the tree becomes infected, it defensively secretes a resin to combat the fungal infestation. This resinous wood is what gives agarwood its distinctive fragrance. The odour of agarwood is complex and pleasing, with few or no similar natural analogues. It is often described as deep, smoky, and resinous, with hints of sweetness and earthiness.
The use of agarwood has a long history, dating back thousands of years. It has been used in various cultural and religious ceremonies, including ancient Egyptian funeral rites and Ayurvedic medicinal practices. The ancient Vedas of India, dating back to 1400 BCE, describe agarwood as a fragrant product. It is also mentioned in the Hebrew Bible and the Gospel of John, highlighting its significance in biblical times.
The value of agarwood is influenced by several factors, including its quality, geographical location, and cultural significance. It is considered one of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world and is highly sought after in the Middle East, where the oil symbolizes wealth, culture, and hospitality. The depletion of natural agarwood due to overharvesting and increasing demand has further contributed to its rarity and value.
Agarwood is known by various names in different languages and regions. In Arabic, it is called "oud" or "oudh", while in European languages, it was historically referred to as "Lignum aquila" or "Agilawood". In Southeast Asian countries, it is known as "gaharu" or "eaglewood", and in India, it is derived from the Sanskrit word "aguru".
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The process of infection
To accelerate the process, artisans may create artificial wounds in the tree to induce an infection. However, the oud produced through this method tends to lack the concentration and quality of naturally infected oud. The artificial process may be faster, but it does not yield the same superior aroma that is sought after in perfumery.
Once the infected agarwood is harvested, it is cut into small chips. Skilled professionals carefully sort through the wood, removing any unusable portions and selecting the resinous chips for the distillation process. The chosen agarwood chips are then soaked in water to soften them, preparing them for the extraction of oud oil.
The softened agarwood chips are then heated to a specific temperature, causing the wood particles to release oud oil. During this distillation process, the oud oil floats to the top of the water, as it is lighter. The condensed water and oud oil are collected in a vessel, and the pure oud oil is separated and stored separately. This pure oud oil is then exposed to sunlight, allowing any remaining moisture to evaporate, ensuring the oil's purity.
The unique fragrance of oud oil is often described as heavy, deep, warm, spicy, animalic, leathery, woody, and balsamic. The process of infection and distillation results in a highly valued and sought-after perfume ingredient, contributing to the costliness and rarity of oud perfumes.
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Extraction methods
Oud perfume is made from the dark, intense essential oil extracted from agarwood, which is one of the costliest and rarest woods in the world. The process of making oud perfume is time-consuming and labour-intensive.
Oud oil used in perfumery is extracted from the resinous heartwood of the agar tree. This heartwood becomes infected by a specific type of fungus or mould, which causes the tree to release a sticky, dark resin. This resin changes the colour, aroma, and composition of the wood, and it is this infected resinous heartwood that is known as oud.
There are two main methods of extracting oud oil:
- Melting the Resin: The hard aromatic resin can be melted to extract the oud oil.
- Distilling the Wood: The resinous wood can be distilled to extract the oud oil. This involves cutting the agarwood into small chips, soaking them in water to soften them, and then distilling the softened wood to release the oud oil. The two standard distillation methods are water- or hydro-distillation and forced steam distillation. Water distillation is commonly used in India, Thailand, and Cambodia, while forced steam distillation is more common in Indonesia.
The pure oud oil is then separated from the water and left in open sunlight to evaporate any excess moisture, ensuring the oil is as pure as possible.
The grade and quality of the oud oil depend on the concentration and aroma, with natural infections producing a higher concentration than artificial infections. The natural infection process is slow, and only about 2% of agar trees produce oud, making it a rare and expensive ingredient.
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Distillation techniques
The distillation process for making oud perfume involves two standard methods: water- or hydro-distillation and forced steam distillation. The former is commonly used in India, Thailand, and Cambodia, while the latter is more common in Indonesia. These techniques help extract distinct aromas from the final oud oils.
The first step in the distillation process is to prepare the agarwood chips. After the infected agarwood is harvested, it is cut into small chips. The skilled artisans then remove any unusable wood and sort out the resinous agarwood chips that will be used for distillation.
The agarwood chips are then soaked in water for a period of time until they become soft and ready for distillation. The soaked chips are then heated at an adequate temperature, causing the wood particles to release oud oil. This oil is lighter than water and floats to the top. The condensed water and oud oil are collected in a vessel, and the pure oud oil is separated from the water and stored in a separate container.
To ensure maximum purity, the pure oud oil is left in open sunlight to allow any remaining moisture to evaporate over time. This process can take a while, but it assures that the oil is as pure as possible.
It is important to note that the distillation process for oud perfume is time-consuming and labor-intensive. The natural mold infection that produces oud occurs in only about two percent of wild agar trees, making the source material rare and valuable. As a result, the distillation process must be carefully executed to extract the maximum amount of oud oil and create a high-quality product.
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Grading and notes of pure oudh oil
Grading pure oudh oil is a complex and subjective process, with no common standard methodology. The quality or grade is largely dependent on the resin saturation within the Agarwood, but other factors are also considered. These include wood discolouration, fragrance level, and chemical composition. Traditionally, grading has been performed by experienced professionals using their senses of colour, smell, and touch. This method is time-consuming and costly to implement on a large scale, and it lacks uniformity due to the subjective nature of human sensory perception.
However, recent developments in chemical composition analysis, such as gas chromatography and mass spectrometry (GC-MS), have provided a more efficient and standardised approach. This technique accurately identifies the major compounds that distinguish oil quality. Despite this, the majority of the market still relies on the traditional method of sensory evaluation.
The marketplace often uses a combination of lettering, descriptive terms, and number classifications to indicate quality. For example, Agarwood may be graded as Super Deluxe, Super Double, Super, A, or oil may be graded as AAA, AA, A+, A, or A1. The lack of standardisation extends beyond individual countries or states, with no industry-wide consensus on grading systems.
Pure oud oil from India, or Assam Oud, is derived from the Agar tree (Aquilaria Agallocha / Aquilaria Malaccensis). It is known for its unique fragrance, setting it apart from oud oils found in other regions. The oil captures warm, woody notes with hints of floral sweetness and spicy intrigue. The complex fusion of aromas creates a luxurious and captivating scent that has garnered a niche community of enthusiasts, connoisseurs, and collectors.
Indian oud oil is deeply rooted in the country's rich heritage and cultural connections with the Arab world. The preservation and protection of Agarwood trees are crucial, and organisations like Indicana Oud are committed to sustainable practices. They plant more saplings and trees in the natural habitat of North East India than they utilise for production, ensuring the continued supply of this prized ingredient for exquisite fragrances.
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Frequently asked questions
Oud perfume is made from the essential oil extracted from agarwood, one of the rarest and most expensive woods in the world.
Agarwood trees are infected by a specific type of fungus or parasitic mould in their heartwood. The tree then releases a dark, sticky resin in an attempt to protect itself. This process changes the colour, aroma and composition of the wood, forming the resinous heartwood from which oud is derived.
The oud oil can be extracted by melting the aromatic resin or distilling the resinous wood. Agarwood chips are soaked in water until they become soft and ready for distillation. The heated wood particles release oud oil, which is then separated from the water and left in the sun to evaporate any excess moisture.
Oud is known for its heavy, deep, warm, spicy, animalic, leathery, woody and balsamic notes. It is often mixed with natural and synthetic fragrances, including cypriol, cedar, kephalis, cashmeran, sandalwood and benzylacetone.
