Seamus Hammond
Perfume absolutes are highly concentrated aromatic oils extracted from plants. The process of making perfume absolutes involves extracting aromatic oils from plant materials using a chemical solvent such as hexane or benzene. This is known as solvent extraction. The solvent is then removed, through distillation or chemical extraction, leaving behind a waxy substance called a concrete. The concrete is then washed with ethanol alcohol to separate the aromatic compounds from pigments and waxes. This mixture is left to cool, and the waxes and non-odiferous materials are removed. The remaining mixture is left to evaporate, removing any leftover alcohol, and resulting in an absolute – a highly fragrant substance that carries an aroma close to the plant from which it came. Absolutes are often diluted with carrier oils such as Jojoba or Sweet Almond, or high-proof clear alcohol such as vodka. Another traditional method of creating absolutes is through enfleurage, where plant material is layered on top of animal fat, which absorbs the aromatic oils over time.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Traditional method | Enfleurage |
| Modern method | Multi-step solvent method |
| Traditional method material | Lard (animal fat) |
| Modern method material | Hydrocarbon solvent (hexane, toluene, benzene) |
| Modern method steps | Extraction, distillation or chemical extraction, ethyl alcohol extraction |
| Traditional method steps | Layering plant material on lard, removing plant material and replacing with fresh material, removing lard (pomade) |
| Traditional method product | Hard perfume, skin care and cosmetics, alcohol extracted to create an absolute |
| Modern method product | Absolute |
| Absolute | Highly concentrated aromatic "oils" |
| Absolute oil | Considered a delicacy among those who formulate custom perfumes |
| Absolute oil viscosity | Thicker than essential oil |
| Absolute oil dilution | Carrier oil such as Jojoba or Sweet Almond |
| Absolute oil concentration | A very small amount goes a long way |
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What You'll Learn
The traditional method of enfleurage
Enfleurage is a traditional method of making perfume absolutes that has been in use since ancient times and became widely known after being adopted in the 16th century in Grasse, France. It is a time-consuming process that involves using fat to capture the scent of flowers that are too delicate for other processing methods. The two types of enfleurage are hot and cold enfleurage.
For the cold enfleurage process, glass plates in a wooden frame called a 'chassis' are coated with fat. Traditionally, tallow was used, but today, vegetable fats such as shea butter, coconut oil, or palm oil are recommended. Hand-picked blooms like jasmine and tuberose are placed on the fat and recharged daily for up to 60 days or until the scent is strong enough. This results in a highly fragrant fat called a 'pomade', which can be further processed to create an 'extrait' and then an 'absolute'. To avoid mould growth, it is important to ensure that the flowers are dry, undamaged, and changed frequently, with delicate flowers being replaced within 6 to 24 hours.
Hot enfleurage uses the same types of fat as cold enfleurage but is suitable for experimenting with nuts, woods, and harder materials that can withstand a little heat. The process involves warming the oil slightly, adding the fresh plant material, and repeating this process until the desired aroma is achieved.
Enfleurage is a captivating method that produces very high-quality fragrances, but it is time-consuming and complex, which is why it has been largely abandoned in favour of more modern extraction processes. However, there are still some rare artisans who produce traditional absolutes using this method, and these are generally more costly due to the time and complexity involved.
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Solvent extraction
The process of solvent extraction involves mixing raw materials with a solvent, typically hexane, cyclohexane, or ethanol. This dissolves the aromatic compounds, waxes, and pigments. The mixture is then filtered and concentrated to produce a substance called concrete. The concrete is further treated with alcohol to separate the aromatic compounds, resulting in an absolute. The absolute is a highly fragrant oil that can be used as a perfume or in aromatherapy.
To create an absolute through solvent extraction, the first step involves making a concrete using a hydrocarbon such as cyclohexane as an extraction solvent. Once this is done and the solvent is removed, the concrete can be used to produce an absolute. The second step involves taking the pre-prepared concrete and dissolving it in absolute alcohol. The resulting solution is then filtered, and the ethanol is removed through evaporation, leaving behind the absolute.
Enfleurage is a traditional method of extracting oils from flowers using fat and is no longer used today due to the development of more efficient modern methods. One type of enfleurage, cold enfleurage, involves laying the whole flower top or singular petals onto two sides of a glass insert containing a purified fat substance. The essential oil is naturally pulled out of the flower and infused into the fat, which takes about three days per batch of flowers. The process is then repeated with fresh flowers until the fat reaches the desired concentration level. Another type of enfleurage, hot enfleurage, involves infusing flowers or other vegetables in oils and fats and heating them to 40 or 50 degrees. After 24 hours, the fat is recovered by draining it through large sieves and then filtered through napkins. The product is then washed with alcohol in threshing machines. This method is very labour-intensive and expensive, which is why it has been largely replaced by solvent extraction.
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Using a vacuum to remove the solvent
The process of creating perfume absolutes involves extracting aromatic oils from plant materials using chemical solvents. The choice of solvent is critical to achieving the desired fragrance composition and stability. In the case of volatile solvent extraction, the solvent is odourless carbon dioxide, which assumes a supercritical state between liquid and gas when subjected to high pressure and room temperature. This process extracts hydrophobic aromatics from the plant material, closely resembling the original odour.
After the solvent has been fully absorbed, it must be removed to leave behind a waxy substance called a 'concrete' or 'resin'. This can be done through vacuum distillation, a process that involves heating the solvent under vacuum to facilitate evaporation. The concrete is then washed and purified with alcohol, which helps to separate and remove aromatic compounds, pigments, and waxes. The alcohol is subsequently removed through a second distillation process, resulting in a highly concentrated aromatic oil known as an 'absolute'.
The use of a vacuum to remove the solvent is advantageous as it eliminates the need for heat, which can alter the scent of the final product. Additionally, the vacuum distillation process allows for the recovery and recycling of the solvent, making it a sustainable option.
While vacuum distillation is effective for removing certain solvents, it may not be necessary for all. For instance, solvents like hexane can simply be left to evaporate at room temperature. The decision to use a vacuum depends on factors such as the plant material, the solvent used, and the desired extraction temperature.
Vacuum distillation is a versatile technique that can be applied to various solvents and plant materials. It is particularly useful for heat-sensitive organic materials that cannot withstand traditional steam-based extraction methods. By utilising a vacuum, perfumers can create a wider range of fragrances with more delicate and intricate notes.
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Dilution
Choosing a Carrier:
The first step in dilution is selecting an appropriate carrier substance, which serves as the base for your perfume blend. Common carriers include carrier oils such as jojoba or sweet almond oil, or high-proof clear alcohols like vodka or perfumer's alcohol. The choice of carrier depends on the specific absolute oil being used, as some absolutes, such as beeswax and cocoa absolutes, require alcohol for dilution.
Techniques for Dilution:
The process of diluting an absolute oil is straightforward. If using a 1.5 ml bottle of absolute oil, empty its contents into a larger bottle, such as a 5 ml bottle. Then, fill the rest of the larger bottle with the chosen carrier substance. This simple method allows for precise control over the dilution ratio.
Testing and Adjusting:
After preparing a diluted perfume blend, it is essential to test it on the wrist to evaluate the fragrance's strength and longevity. If the fragrance is too subtle, you can gradually add more absolute oil to increase the concentration. Conversely, if the fragrance is too strong, dilute it further by adding more carrier substance. This iterative process ensures that you achieve the desired fragrance effect.
Precautions and Considerations:
When working with absolute oils, it is crucial to take certain precautions. Always wear safety gloves when handling concentrated substances and refrigerants. Additionally, be mindful of potential allergies to hydrocarbon solvents or alcohols, especially if you have sensitive skin. Always perform a patch test before extensive use to ensure the diluted perfume is well-tolerated by the skin.
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Different types of absolutes
Absolutes are concentrated, highly aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants. They are similar to essential oils but are produced through solvent extraction or enfleurage. Absolutes are often used in perfumery and aromatherapy.
There are several different types of absolutes, each with its own unique method of extraction and characteristics. Here are some of the most common types:
- Solvent-Extracted Absolutes: This is the most common method of extracting absolutes. The process involves using a hydrocarbon solvent, such as hexane, toluene, or benzene, to extract aromatic oils from plant material. The solvent is then removed through distillation or vacuum distillation, leaving behind a waxy substance called a "concrete" or "resin". The concrete is then washed with ethanol or ethyl alcohol to separate the aromatic compounds from pigments and waxes. Finally, the mixture is cooled to solidify any remaining waxes, and the ethanol is allowed to evaporate, leaving behind the absolute. Solvent-extracted absolutes are known for their high concentration of fragrance and are often used in perfumery.
- Enfleurage Absolutes: Enfleurage is a traditional method of extracting absolutes that has been used for centuries. This process involves placing flower petals or plant material between layers of purified animal fat, such as lard. Over time, the fat becomes saturated with the flower's aromatic oils. The resulting fatty substance, called a "pomade," can be used as a solid perfume or further processed to create an absolute. Enfleurage is a time-consuming and labour-intensive process, so it is less commonly used today. However, some artisanal perfumers still use this method to create unique, high-quality absolutes.
- Refrigerant Gas Absolutes: This method uses refrigerant gases, such as butane, to extract aromatic compounds from plant material. The refrigerant gases are used at subnormal temperatures, which helps to reduce the amount of wax extracted. This technique is often used when working with plant materials that contain lower levels of wax or when a less waxy concrete is desired.
- CO2 Extraction: While not as commonly discussed as the previous methods, CO2 extraction is another technique used to create absolutes. This process involves using carbon dioxide under high pressure and moderate heat to act as a solvent, extracting the aromatic compounds from the plant material.
These are just a few examples of the different types of absolutes and their extraction methods. Each method has its own advantages and considerations, and the choice of technique depends on various factors, including the type of plant material, desired consistency, and intended use of the absolute.
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Frequently asked questions
Absolute oils are created from organic material that is too delicate for the steam-based method used to create essential oils. They are highly concentrated aromatic oils extracted from plants through a multi-step solvent method.
The traditional method for making perfume absolutes is called enfleurage. This involves layering plant material, such as rose petals, on top of animal fat (lard). The fat absorbs the aromatic oils over time. The plant material is then removed and replaced with fresh material. This process is repeated over a period of weeks or months. The resulting fatty aromatic substance (called pomade) can be used as a hard perfume or made into an absolute through alcohol extraction.
The modern method for making perfume absolutes involves using chemical solvents such as hexane, benzene, or toluene. The organic material is placed in a large vat and the solvent is added. The vat is rotated to help the material absorb the solvent. After the solvent has been fully absorbed, it is left to evaporate at room temperature or removed through distillation. A waxy substance called concrete is left behind, which is then washed with ethanol alcohol to separate the aromatic compounds from the pigments and waxes. The mixture is left to cool and the waxes are removed. The remaining mixture is then left to evaporate again to remove any leftover alcohol, leaving behind the absolute.
Absolutes can be diluted using a carrier oil such as jojoba or sweet almond. Beeswax Absolute and Cocoa Absolute require high-proof clear alcohol such as vodka or perfumer's alcohol for dilution. A good starting point for dilution is a 50/50 blend of absolute to carrier.
