Creating Your Own Organic Cologne: A Step-By-Step Guide

Creating your own organic cologne is a fun and rewarding process. Not only does it allow you to experiment with different scents and create a unique fragrance that suits your taste, but it also ensures that you are using natural, non-toxic ingredients that are safe for your skin.

The first step in making your own cologne is understanding the different fragrance notes. Top notes are the first scents you smell and typically include citrus or floral aromas. Middle notes form the heart of the fragrance and can be warm, spicy, or herbaceous. Base notes provide the foundation and usually include deep, musky, or woody scents. When blending essential oils, it's important to consider the ratio of each note to create a well-balanced fragrance.

The next step is to choose your essential oils. You can select oils that create a masculine or feminine scent profile, or simply choose aromas that you personally enjoy. Common essential oils used in cologne-making include bergamot, cedarwood, lavender, sandalwood, vanilla, and citrus fruits like orange and lime.

Once you have selected your essential oils, it's time to blend them together. This is where you can experiment and adjust the ratios until you find a combination that smells appealing to you. You can also add other ingredients like alcohol (such as vodka or witch hazel), glycerin, or carrier oils like coconut oil, to help preserve and enhance your fragrance.

Finally, you can bottle your cologne and apply it to your pulse points, such as behind the ear, the wrists, and the crook of your elbow.

Making your own organic cologne is a creative process that allows you to design a signature scent that is truly yours.

Choosing your essential oils

When choosing your essential oils, it's important to understand the fragrance scale. Fragrances are made up of top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Top notes are the first scents you smell and typically include citrus or florals. They are followed by middle notes, which form the heart of the fragrance and include warm, spicy, or herbaceous scents. Finally, base notes are the foundation of the fragrance and usually include deep, musky, or woody scents.

When creating your cologne, it's a good idea to include at least one oil from each note category to ensure that the fragrance is balanced and long-lasting. You can adjust the ratios of the notes to suit your preferences, but a common suggestion is to use 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. Another suggestion is to use 20% base notes, 50% middle notes, and 30% top notes.

• Top notes: Bergamot, Basil, Grapefruit, Eucalyptus, Peppermint, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Sweet Orange, Tangerine
• Middle notes: Black Pepper, Cypress, Juniper Berry, Lavender, Pine, Rosemary, Geranium, Ylang Ylang, Rose, Lotus Flower
• Base notes: Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver, Frankincense, Patchouli, Myrrh, Copaiba Balsam

When choosing your essential oils, consider the overall theme or inspiration for your cologne. Do you want it to be fresh and invigorating, or warm and comforting? You can also think about specific scents that inspire you, such as the smell of the ocean or a particular flower, and use that as a starting point.

Once you have a few scents in mind, experiment with combining them in small amounts to see how they work together. If using essential oils, start with equal parts of each oil and adjust the ratios until you find a blend that smells good to you. Remember to consider the strength of each herb or oil to ensure the final scent is well-balanced.

Blending the oils

Firstly, it's important to understand fragrance notes. Notes are divided into three classes: top, middle, and base. The top note will be the first scent noticed after application and will be the quickest to fade. The middle note will be the next most powerful scent, and the base note will be the scent that lasts the longest. A well-balanced cologne contains all three notes, which create depth and complexity in the scent.

When blending the oils, it's a good idea to start with a theme or inspiration. Think about what you want your cologne to evoke. Do you want it to be fresh and invigorating or warm and comforting? Consider what scents inspire you and use that as a starting point.

Once you have a few scents in mind, start experimenting with combining them in small amounts to see how they work together. If using essential oils, it's best to start with equal parts of each oil and then adjust the ratios as needed until you find a blend that smells good to you.

For a more masculine scent, stick to earthy, woodsy, spicy, and citrus essential oils. Some good options for top notes include wild orange, bergamot, and lemongrass. For middle notes, try sandalwood, cardamom, ylang-ylang, or cedarwood. And for base notes, frankincense, vetiver, and Douglas fir are excellent choices.

You can also add other ingredients to enhance the scent and help the oils blend. Vodka or other types of alcohol are commonly used as a base, as they help to dilute the essential oils and make them more suitable for use on the skin. Other options include witch hazel, glycerin, and distilled water.

• 4 drops of wild orange (top note)
• 6 drops of sandalwood (middle note)
• 10 drops of frankincense (base note)
• 3 drops of lemon (top note)
• 4 drops of cardamom (middle note)
• 4 drops of ylang-ylang (middle note)
• 6 drops of vetiver (base note)
• 3 drops of lemongrass (top note)
• 3 drops of basil (middle note)
• 4 drops of cedarwood (base note)
• 6 drops of Douglas fir (base note)
• 2 drops of bergamot (top note)
• 3 drops of lemon (top note)
• 6 drops of clove (middle note)
• 8 drops of white fir (base note)
• 4 drops of lemongrass (top note)
• 6 drops of copaiba (middle note)
• 8 drops of frankincense (base note)

Adding alcohol

Alcohol is an important ingredient in cologne as it helps to dilute the essential oils, making the fragrance more suitable for use on the skin. It also helps to disperse the oils and makes the cologne last longer and more intense. Vodka, perfumer's alcohol, grain alcohol, Everclear, gin, witch hazel, and rubbing alcohol are all suitable alcohols for cologne. When using alcohol, it is important to note that it can dry the skin if used frequently.

When making cologne, the alcohol is added after the essential oils have been selected and combined. The amount of alcohol used will depend on the desired concentration of the cologne and the type of application method chosen (e.g. spray or roller bottle). For a spray cologne, a glass spray bottle, essential oils, alcohol, and glycerin are combined and shaken well. The bottle is then topped off with alcohol and secured with a spray nozzle. For a roller bottle cologne, a smaller amount of essential oils is used, combined with a carrier oil such as fractionated coconut oil.

It is important to allow the cologne to mature for several weeks before use, as this helps the fragrance to develop and ensures that the oils have completely combined. The cologne should be stored in a cool, dark place to preserve the fragrance and protect the potency of the essential oils.

Diluting the cologne

Diluting your cologne is an important step in the perfume-making process. It involves reducing the concentration of the fragrance oils to achieve the desired scent intensity and longevity. Here is a detailed guide on diluting your cologne:

Choosing the Right Diluent

The choice of diluent depends on the type of fragrance you want to create.

Perfumer's Alcohol

Perfumer's alcohol is a popular choice for alcohol-based colognes. It helps to disperse the fragrance oils, making the scent more suitable for application to the skin. Alcohol also intensifies the fragrance, making it easier for others to perceive. Additionally, it prolongs the fragrance's duration. However, if you plan to add your cologne to bases such as candles, creams, detergents, or oils, avoid using perfumer's alcohol as it will limit your options.

Di Propylene Glycol (DPG)

DPG is a solvent commonly used in the fragrance industry to dilute insoluble materials. It offers more flexibility than perfumer's alcohol, as it can be used in various bases beyond alcoholic fragrances. However, it is derived from petrochemicals, making it unsuitable for natural perfumery.

Other Alternatives

Benzyl benzoate and benzyl alcohol are sometimes used in fragrance compounds to aid the blending of challenging materials. However, these are aromachemicals, restricting their use for natural perfumers.

Dilution Ratios and Techniques

When diluting your cologne, it is crucial to use accurate measurements. Here are some guidelines and techniques to follow:

Use a Scale, Not Drops

Accurate measurements are essential when diluting or blending your cologne. Avoid using drops and opt for a scale instead. For beginners, a jewellery scale that measures down to 0.01g is a good starting point. This precision will enable you to create a repeatable formula.

Dilution Percentages

The dilution percentage depends on the specific material you are working with. For most materials, a 10% dilution is standard. However, for potent materials like Ethyl Vanillin, Calone, and Violet Leaf, a 1% dilution is sufficient.

Heating Thick Materials

Some materials, such as Tonka Absolute and mimosa absolute, may require gentle heating to liquefy before dilution. Use a water bath or an electric leg wax melter to warm the material slightly. Be careful not to overheat, and only heat for as long as it takes to blend, minimising evaporation.

Dilution Process

Now that you have chosen your diluent and understand the measurements, it's time to dilute your cologne:

Step 1: Weigh the Materials

For a 10g solution at a 10% dilution, you will need 1g of the fragrance material and 9g of the diluent (alcohol or DPG). For a 1% dilution, use 0.1g of the material and 9.9g of the diluent.

Step 2: Combine and Mix

Combine the fragrance material and diluent in a washable glass beaker or a dropper bottle. Stir the mixture slowly to ensure the oils are thoroughly dispersed.

Step 3: Allow it to Mature

Depending on the recipe, you may need to let the cologne mature for several days or weeks. This maturation process allows the fragrance to develop and the ingredients to blend harmoniously.

Step 4: Filter and Bottle

After the maturation period, filter the cologne through a coffee filter to remove any sediment. Then, carefully pour the cologne into a glass perfume bottle using a funnel. Your cologne is now ready for use!

Additional Tips

• Experiment with different dilution percentages to find the ideal intensity for your cologne.
• When diluting for evaluation or creating an alcohol-based fragrance, stick to using perfumer's alcohol.
• If you plan to add your cologne to bases like candles or creams, consider using DPG or neat fragrance materials.
• Don't dilute all your materials—keep some in their neat state for specific applications.

Storing and applying the cologne

Storing and applying your cologne correctly is essential to ensure that it lasts as long as possible and smells as good as it can.

Storing your cologne

When storing your cologne, it is important to use glass bottles or jars, ideally amber or dark-coloured glass, to prevent the essential oils from losing their potency. Store your cologne in a cool, dark place, and make sure to seal the bottle tightly. If you are making a roll-on cologne, use a 10ml roller bottle, and for a spray cologne, use a 2-ounce glass spray bottle.

Applying your cologne

Fragrance adheres better to slightly damp skin, so it is best to apply your cologne right after a shower. Spray or roll the cologne onto your chest, wrists, neck, and behind your ears. You can also apply it to the crook of your elbow and the sides of your neck. If using a spray cologne, make sure to shake the bottle well before each use.

A DIY cologne spray will last up to six months when stored properly, while a roll-on cologne will last up to one year. However, the scent of the cologne itself will only last for a few hours on your skin, so you may need to reapply throughout the day.

Frequently asked questions