Heidi Norton
Creating long-lasting fragrant soap is a challenge due to the impact of the soap-making process on certain fragrances and essential oils. The cold process, for example, involves several pH changes that can affect the performance of some scents, especially lighter fragrances like coconut and citrus. To make fragrance last longer in soap, it is recommended to test and approve the fragrance or essential oil for use in soap. Increasing the usage rate of the fragrance or essential oil can also help to make the scent stronger and last longer.
Characteristics and Values to Make Fragrance Last Longer in Soap
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Use a fragrance calculator | To find out how much fragrance to add to your soap |
| Use approved fragrances | Use fragrances that are approved for use in soap and have been thoroughly tested |
| Use stronger scents | Scent your soap recipes on the stronger side to ensure the fragrance comes through |
| Use different fragrance oils | Use Coconut Cream Fragrance Oil or 10X Orange Fragrance Oil instead of Coconut Cybilla Fragrance Oil, Lemon Essential Oil, or Orange Valencia Essential Oil |
| Use melt-and-pour soap | This is one of the easiest methods of soap-making and is ideal for beginners |
| Use the right amount of essential oil | Use between 0.16 and 0.44 ounces of essential oil per pound of soap |
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What You'll Learn
Use a stronger scent
Using a stronger scent is a straightforward way to make your soap smell more potent. However, it's important to note that not all fragrances are safe to use in high amounts, so it's crucial to follow safety guidelines and regulations. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) provide guidelines on the maximum amount of fragrance or essential oil that can be added to soap. For cold process soap, it is generally recommended to add up to 5% by weight of fragrance or essential oil, which equates to 50 grams per kilogram of soap. Melt-and-pour soaps, on the other hand, typically call for lower amounts of fragrance, with 1.5% to 3% by weight being the recommended range. It's worth noting that certain fragrances, like peppermint, may require lower amounts to prevent them from becoming too overpowering.
To ensure your soap has a strong and long-lasting scent, it's recommended to opt for melt-and-pour or hot process soap-making methods instead of the cold process. This is because, in the cold process, fragrances are added at the beginning when the lye is active and the soap is warm, leading to quicker evaporation. In contrast, fragrances are added towards the end of the melt-and-pour and hot process methods, as the soap is cooling down, resulting in reduced evaporation and a longer-lasting scent.
If you're set on using the cold process, you can compensate for the quicker evaporation by adding more fragrance. Additionally, you can use a fragrance calculator to determine the appropriate amount of fragrance to add to your soap. To further enhance the scent's longevity, store your soap in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, and opt for closed containers to slow down evaporation during long-term storage.
While not a direct method of increasing the strength of the scent, using certain fixatives or "anchors" can help extend the life of a fragrance in your soap. Materials like arrowroot powder, powdered clays, and cornstarch have high surface areas that can absorb and slowly release the fragrance over time. However, it's important to clarify that these fixatives do not make a weak scent stronger; they merely prolong the release of the fragrance.
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Choose oils tested and approved for use in soap
When choosing oils for soap-making, it is important to select those that have been tested and approved for use in soap to ensure both safety and effectiveness. Testing is always key to any handmade recipe. While fragrance oils and essential oils can enhance the sensory experience of using soap, they can also be volatile and undergo changes during the soap-making process, especially in cold process soap-making, which involves several pH changes.
To ensure the fragrance or essential oil is suitable for soap, look for suppliers that provide testing notes and performance data. These notes can offer valuable insights into how the oil behaves during the soap-making process, including potential issues such as discoloration, ricing, separation, or acceleration. For example, NorthWood Distributing is updating its soap fragrance oils with testing notes and soap photos, making it easier for soap makers to choose the right oils. Bramble Berry also tests its fragrance and essential oils and includes performance notes in the product descriptions.
It is also important to consider the usage rates of the fragrance or essential oil, as this plays a significant role in scent retention. Adjusting the amount of oil added per pound of soap can help to create a stronger, longer-lasting scent. Fragrance calculators, such as the one provided by Bramble Berry, can be a useful tool for determining the optimal usage rate for your specific recipe. Additionally, some suppliers, like NorthWood Distributing, provide information on the minimum fragrance approval percentage for soap-making, which can be used as a guideline when selecting oils.
To further enhance the fragrance of your soap, you can pair lighter scents with deeper, more complex scents through a technique called "anchoring." For instance, pairing lime essential oil with earthy patchouli essential oil can help to improve scent retention. The addition of kaolin clay is another method to explore, as it is believed to hold onto the fragrance oil and make it last longer, while also adding a nice slip and subtle color to the soap.
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Avoid certain oils, like coconut and citrus
When making soap, it is important to avoid certain oils, like coconut and citrus oils, to make the fragrance last longer. Coconut oil soap, for example, requires a curing period of ten weeks before it is gentle enough for the skin. The curing process allows soap crystals to fully develop inside the bars. Using coconut oil soap too early may result in over-cleansing.
Coconut oil also has a very light scent in cold process soap-making. This is due to the several pH changes that occur during the cold process, which can attack the components of the fragrance. The same is true for citrus essential oils, such as lemon and orange Valencia essential oils. Their scent tends to fade quickly and may not make it through the cold process.
Citrus essential oils are also considered tricky to work with because they sometimes don't hold the smell. They are flighty and have a low flashpoint, which is the temperature at which the oil's vapour will ignite when exposed to an open flame. However, the flashpoint does not denote the temperature at which the oil dissipates. Many essential oils have a lower flashpoint, but they do not dissipate during cold process soap-making.
To make the citrus scent last longer in soap, you can use folded essential oils, such as 5x or 10x lemon or orange, which tend to stick well. Anchoring the citrus scent with other essential oils like litsea cubeba (may chang) or lemongrass can also help. Adding clay to the soap may further aid in anchoring the scent.
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Use a fragrance calculator to find the right amount
To make fragrance last longer in soap, one must use a fragrance calculator to find the right amount of fragrance to add. The usage rate can be increased slightly to make the scent last longer. There are many fragrance calculators available online, such as the one by Bramble Berry Inc. These calculators are designed to take the guesswork out of scenting DIY bath and body products. They are based on the approved usage rates for fragrance oils, according to the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) standards.
The IFRA works with the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) and an independent panel of experts to determine the usage rates to minimize risks to consumers. They review thousands of materials used in fragrance formulations and issue guidelines for their usage levels or ban ingredients. These calculators ensure that the fragrances are safe for the skin and meet all the necessary standards.
It is important to note that for cold process soap, the fragrance is based on oil weight only, not the total batch weight. This is because the cold process is a harsh environment, with several pH changes that can affect the fragrance. Therefore, it is recommended to use fragrances that have been thoroughly tested and approved for use in soap, as some scents may not make it through the cold process.
By using a fragrance calculator and selecting the appropriate fragrance, one can ensure that the scent in their soap is long-lasting and safe for consumers.
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Don't add fragrance when the soap base is too hot
When making soap, it is important to be mindful of the temperature of the soap base when adding fragrances. Adding fragrance when the soap base is too hot can cause the scent to fade or change. This is because high temperatures can affect the fragrance oil's integrity, resulting in a less potent scent.
To prevent this issue, it is recommended to allow the soap base to cool before adding fragrances. Stirring the soap base continuously while it cools will help ensure a smooth and lump-free consistency. The ideal temperature to aim for is 120 degrees Fahrenheit. At this temperature, the soap base is cool enough to retain the fragrance without affecting its colour or scent.
By allowing the soap base to cool, you create a more stable environment for the fragrance. This helps to preserve the integrity of the fragrance oil, ensuring that its scent remains intact. It is also important to note that different fragrance oils have varying levels of heat tolerance. Therefore, it is always a good idea to refer to the manufacturer's instructions or performance notes for the specific fragrance oil you are using.
Additionally, the type of soap-making process can impact the fragrance. For example, the cold process involves several pH changes, which can be harsh on certain fragrance oils, causing them to fade or alter. In such cases, it is advisable to opt for fragrance oils that are known to perform well in cold process soap-making, such as Coconut Cream Fragrance Oil or 10X Orange Fragrance Oil.
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Frequently asked questions
The perfect amount of essential oil to put in soap varies. Experts say that you’ll want between 0.16 and 0.44 ounces of essential oil per pound of soap. 0.16 ounces will produce a very light scent, while 0.44 will produce a very strong scent.
For the best scent retention, make sure the fragrance or essential oil you’re using has been tested thoroughly and is approved for use in soap. You can also scent your soap recipes on the stronger side to ensure your fragrance comes through.
Even with the highest scent recommendation, some scents don’t make it through cold-processed soap-making. Coconut and citrus scents, like lemon and orange, can be very light. If you want a coconut or orange scent that lasts, you can use Coconut Cream Fragrance Oil or 10X Orange Fragrance Oil.
Melt and pour soap is one of the easiest methods of soap-making and is ideal for beginners. It’s also perfect for those who want to experiment with different scents.
First, melt your soap base in the microwave or in a saucepan. Then, stir and allow it to cool to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. If you add dyes or fragrances while it’s too hot, it can affect the colour and fragrance of the finished product.
