Seamus Hammond
Antique perfume bottles are enchanting relics of the past, offering a glimpse into the history of fragrance and its role in society. With their delicate craftsmanship and elegant designs, they captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike. Identifying and valuing these bottles can be a challenging yet intriguing task, involving various factors such as size, style, and specific characteristics. The journey of uncovering the mysteries of these antique perfume bottles begins with familiarizing oneself with their key features and the context in which they were created.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Size | Smaller sizes (2-5 inches) are typically more expensive. Antique perfume bottles usually range from two inches or less to around five or six inches. |
| Material | Crystal, glass, or wooden corks can increase valuation by 3-4%. |
| Condition | A plastic facing on the cap liner may disintegrate and ruin the bottle's appearance. |
| Mouth of the bottle | Screw-top bottles were made after 1910, while cork-top bottles generally vanished around the turn of the 20th century. |
| Mold seam and lip | Hand-blown bottles typically have an applied lip. |
| Markings | Check for any signature or maker's mark, which can help determine origin, manufacturer, and time period. |
| Manufacturing techniques | Check for mold lines, indicating that the bottle was made using molds. |
| Lot numbers | Older bottles from the 1930s-40s would have lot numbers embossed into the glass base. |
| Bottle shape numbers | Older bottles from the 1930s-40s would have bottle shape numbers embossed into the glass base. |
| Patent numbers | Older bottles from the 1930s-40s would have patent numbers embossed into the glass base. |
| Stickers | Stickers replaced stamping in the 1940s but were soon lost or destroyed, making authentication difficult. |
| Enameled lettering | Enameled lettering (serigraphy) on glass bottles started in the 1930s and became common in the 1940s. |
| "Made in Occupied Japan" | Bottles with this label were made from September 1945 until April 1952. |
| "Sample, not to be sold" | Sample bottles from the 1950s onward often had these labels. |
| "Dummy, not for sale" | Factice or display bottles have these labels. |
| Acid stamps | Look for acid stamps for Baccarat, Lalique, Cristal Nancy, or Cristal Romesnil on the base of the bottle. |
| Style | Art Nouveau emerged from the late 19th to early 20th centuries and is characterized by organic shapes inspired by nature. |
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What You'll Learn
Check the bottle's mouth (screw tops after 1910)
When identifying old perfume bottles, checking the bottle's mouth for screw tops is a key indicator of the era in which the bottle was produced. Screw tops on perfume bottles were introduced in the 1910s, so their presence indicates a bottle produced after this date.
Bakelite screw caps were in use from the 1930s to the 1950s, with some perfume brands, such as Lanvin, continuing to use black Bakelite screw caps into the 1960s. You can identify a Bakelite screw cap by its formaldehyde odour when rubbed briskly or held under hot running water. Lucite caps were introduced in the late 1930s, and older versions may have small fractures or chips and a yellowed or discoloured appearance from the perfume.
Goldtone metal screw caps were in use from the 1920s onwards, and EAN barcodes on the box indicate a perfume bottle from after 1989. The presence of a Green Dot recycling symbol on the box dates the perfume to after 1992. An "e-sign" next to the volume indicates the perfume was made after 1976, and a Period-after-opening symbol (PAO) has been used since 2005 to identify the useful lifetime of a cosmetic product.
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Examine the mould seam and lip (hand-blown bottles have an applied lip)
Examining the mould seam and lip of a perfume bottle can provide valuable insights into its age and origin. Here are some key considerations when inspecting these features on antique perfume bottles:
Mould Seam Characteristics:
Firstly, it is important to understand the concept of a mould seam. This is the line or mark left on a bottle where the mould parts came together during the glassblowing or bottle-making process. The position and characteristics of this seam can offer clues about the bottle's age. For instance:
- Bottles made before 1860 typically have a side mould seam that ends on the shoulder or lower neck of the bottle.
- Between 1860 and 1880, the seam is usually found just below the finish (the glassmaker's term for the bottle lip).
- From 1880 to 1900, the seam is within the finish, just below the rim or top lip surface.
- Bottles produced after 1900 often have mould seams that end right at the top surface of the finish or rim.
- However, it's important to note that this dating method is not always accurate, as some older bottle-making techniques, like mouth-blowing, could erase traces of the side mould seam.
Lip Characteristics:
The lip of a perfume bottle, or the finish in glassmaker terminology, is also indicative of its production method and age:
- Hand-blown bottles typically have what is known as an "applied lip". This means that the lip is formed separately and then applied or attached to the bottle, resulting in a distinct seam where the lip meets the bottle.
- In contrast, machine-made bottles often have seams that end right at the top of the lip or finish, indicating a more modern production process.
- The finish of a bottle may also provide clues. A "tooled" finish, for example, is characteristic of a mouth-blown process and can affect the visibility of the mould seam.
Additional Considerations:
When examining the mould seam and lip, it's important to consider other factors that may impact the overall interpretation:
- The presence of whittle marks, bubbles, or other flaws in the glass can provide insights. For example, the "hammered" appearance of some bottles is caused by using a mould that is not sufficiently hot, which is a flaw that affects the bottle's appearance rather than its function.
- The shape and symmetry of the bottle can also be indicative of its production method. Free-blown bottles without the use of a mould tend to have simpler shapes, such as globes or elongated forms, and may exhibit uneven distribution of glass with thicker areas at the heel or base edge.
- The type of stopper or cap can also provide valuable clues about the bottle's identity, purpose, and value. For instance, cork stoppers were more common in the 19th century, while screw-top bottles generally appeared after 1910.
In conclusion, examining the mould seam and lip of an antique perfume bottle can provide important clues about its production method, age, and value. However, it is essential to approach dating with caution and consider multiple factors for a more comprehensive understanding of the bottle's origins.
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Look for signatures or maker's marks
When identifying old perfume bottles, it is important to look for signatures or makers' marks. These marks can provide valuable information about the bottle's origin, age, and authenticity. Here are some tips to help you look for and identify these marks:
Firstly, carefully examine the base of the bottle. Makers' marks or signatures are often found on the bottom of the bottle or stopper. These marks can include embossed or etched numbers, letters, or symbols that indicate the manufacturer or the company. For example, you may find acid stamps for brands like Baccarat, Lalique, Cristal Nancy, or Cristal Romesnil, which add value to the bottle. Older Lalique perfumes, for instance, were marked with "R. Lalique" in block lettering until 1945, after which they were simply marked "Lalique France."
Secondly, pay attention to the design and decoration of the bottle. Makers' marks may be incorporated into the design, such as engraved or embossed signatures or logos. Examine the glass for any distinctive marks, such as the maker's name or a trademark. Some bottles may have the name of the perfume or the company embossed or engraved on them. For instance, Chanel No. 5 or Surrender by Ciro.
Thirdly, consider the style and period of the bottle. Different styles or design movements can help narrow down the time period of the bottle's creation. For example, Art Nouveau styles generally range from 1900 to the 1920s, while Art Deco styles were more common in the mid-1920s to the 1940s. Overlapping styles and reproductions can make dating tricky, but knowing the general design movements can help.
Additionally, look for any labels or stickers on the bottle. Labels can provide important clues, such as the date, the word "sample," or "not for sale." Some labels may have dates stamped on them, especially on the back. Chanel bottles from the 1960s onward, for example, should have the backs of their labels marked with a copyright symbol and CC. Also, be aware of revenue stamps on imported scents, which indicate the bottle is from the early 20th century.
Lastly, if you are unable to find any marks on the bottle itself, consider the box or packaging it came in. The style of the box or any labels attached to it can help determine the age of the perfume bottle. Boxes and labels can provide information about the period and country of origin.
Remember that some bottles, especially older ones, may not have distinct makers' marks. In such cases, you may need to rely on other identifying features and characteristics. Comparing your bottle to others of known origin can also help in identification.
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Note the size, material and condition (affects value)
When identifying old perfume bottles, it is important to note their size, material, and condition, as these factors can affect their value.
Firstly, the size of a perfume bottle can vary, and smaller bottles may be indicative of antique or vintage pieces. For example, 17th to 19th-century perfume bottles often had brass caps with engraved designs and were likely to be smaller in size.
Secondly, the material of a perfume bottle can significantly impact its value. Common materials for perfume bottles include plastic, metal, and glass. Glass is often considered the superior choice for high-end perfumes due to its inert nature and ability to preserve the fragrance. It does not interact with the perfume, ensuring that the original scent remains unaltered. Glass is also aesthetically pleasing, showcasing the perfume in its true form and enhancing the overall presentation of the fragrance. On the other hand, plastic bottles may absorb certain chemicals from the plastic, altering the fragrance over time.
Additionally, the condition of an old perfume bottle can greatly affect its value. Antique perfume bottles that are in good condition and have beautiful designs are more likely to be valued highly by collectors. Collectors may also be interested in the history and origin of the bottle, so it is helpful to look for any names, places of origin, or sets of numbers stamped or etched on the bottle.
Overall, when identifying old perfume bottles, paying attention to their size, material, and condition can provide valuable insights into their value and origin.
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Compare with others (use online resources)
The International Perfume Bottle Association (IPBA) is a valuable resource for collectors, offering information and education about various aspects of perfume bottles and related vanity items. They also promote collecting these unique items and fostering fellowship among collectors. Becoming a member of IPBA gives you access to a wealth of knowledge and networking opportunities.
Invaluable is an online auction platform that allows you to browse thousands of vintage and antique perfume bottles, often with high-quality photographs and descriptions. M.S. Rau is a site that offers a curated collection of antique perfume bottles for sale, with detailed photographs and information about each piece.
The IPBA Antique Trader Perfume Bottles Price Guide is a comprehensive guide to identifying and valuing antique perfume bottles. It offers information on how to date containers and how to evaluate their monetary value.
Online resources such as Jarsking can be used to compare the price and features of antique perfume bottles. Jarsking is a reputable wholesaler with a rich inventory and high-quality products. They have a large post-processing facility and quick design and sample turnaround in addition to production capacity.
Some other factors that can help identify old perfume bottles include the style features such as shape, size, decorative elements, closure device, hinge style on the cap, and figural stopper. The metal mounting on the bottle, the material used, and any marks on the mounting can also be used to identify the maker and date of the bottle.
Old glass bottles might have etched matching numbers on the base of the perfume bottle and on the bottom of the stopper. This was usually found on French bottles such as Baccarat. Older bottles from the 1930s-40s would have lot numbers, bottle shape numbers, or patent numbers embossed into the glass base. By 1970, cosmetic companies were stamping coloured numbers on the bottom of their products.
Other indicators of age include the type of bottle mouth, with screw-top bottles generally made after 1910 and cork-top bottles tending to predate the turn of the 20th century. The presence of an e-sign next to the volume indicates the bottle was made after 1976, while an EAN barcode on the box indicates a date after 1989.
The style of the box or label can also provide clues as to the age of the perfume bottle. For example, Art Nouveau styles generally date from 1900-1920, Art Deco from the mid-1920s to the 1940s, and psychedelic styles from the late 1960s to early 1970s.
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Frequently asked questions
The age of a perfume bottle is a significant factor that affects its value. To identify if a perfume bottle is old, you can look out for the following things:
- Screw-top bottles were made after 1910, while cork-top bottles generally vanished around the turn of the 20th century.
- Lot numbers, bottle shape numbers, or patent numbers embossed into the glass base indicate that the bottle is from the 1930s or 1940s.
- Enameled lettering, also known as serigraphy, on glass bottles started being used after the 1930s and was a regular feature in the 1940s.
- Bottles embossed with or having labels marked "Made in Occupied Japan" were made from September 1945 until April 1952.
A: You can check for any signature or maker's mark on the bottle, as this can help determine the origin, manufacturer, and time period it was made. Older bottles stamped their name and origin somewhere on the bottle.
Antique perfume bottles typically range from two inches or less to around five or six inches. The type of stopper, whether a simple cork or an ornate glass figure, can also indicate the identity of the bottle. Antique Art Nouveau bottles, which emerged from the late 19th to early 20th centuries, are characterized by organic shapes inspired by nature, with flowing lines, floral motifs, and subtle colors.
You can look for an e-sign, which is a mark that can be found on some pre-packed goods in Europe, and indicates that the bottle was made after 1976. If there is a barcode on the box, the perfume dates to after 1989. Starting in 1992, the Green Dot recycling symbol will appear on the packaging.
You can look at resources on the International Perfume Bottle Association (IPBA) website, especially the Virtual Museum that contains many bottle images. You can also find a comprehensive bibliography of perfume bottle and glass books there.
