Unlocking Hop Aroma Secrets: Dry Hop Alternatives

Dry hopping is a technique used by brewers to add hops to beer after fermentation has begun. It is a process that imparts a fresh hop aroma to the beer without adding any bitterness. The addition of hops later in the process preserves the flavour and aroma from the hops' oils, which are distinct from the alpha acids that give the beer its bitterness. These oils add no bitterness, just flavour and aroma. During the boiling process, nearly all of the hop oils evaporate; the longer the boil time, the more oils are lost. The hops put in at the beginning of the boil for bittering lose almost all of their oils. Those added near the end of the boil don't lose as much oil but still lose quite a bit. To get the most hop aroma without dry hopping, hops can be added right before pitching the yeast.

Use LUPOMAX or Cryo Hops for a more intense aroma

LUPOMAX and Cryo Hops are both types of lupulin-enriched products, which are designed to deliver a more intense hop aroma and flavour. They are created by separating the lupulin powder from the vegetative matter of whole hop cones, which is then pressed into pellets. This process allows brewers to pack a more pungent punch of hop aroma and flavour into their beer without the vegetative cone material, which can cause astringency and decrease volume.

LUPOMAX is a concentrated lupulin pellet that delivers enormous hop flavours while reducing beer loss. It was introduced by the John I. Haas company in July 2020 as a competitor to Cryo Hops. LUPOMAX can be used in any stage of brewing where a brewer might use a traditional T-90 pellet. It is a user-friendly product that does not require any special skills, processes, or systems to use.

Cryo Hops are produced by Yakima Chief Hops (YCH) and were first released in early 2017. They are made by chilling raw hops to sub-zero temperatures using liquid nitrogen and then shattering them. The separated lupulin glands are then sifted and separated from the leaf material, with the lupulin being pressed into Cryo hop pellets. Cryo Hops have two main advantages over whole cone or pelletized hops: they enhance the flavour and aroma of a beer, and they improve the brewing process by reducing yield loss. Cryo Hops are best used in hoppy beers like IPAs and can be added during or after fermentation to give a massive blast of floral and fruity power.

Both LUPOMAX and Cryo Hops can be used to get a more intense hop aroma without dry hopping, as they are designed to deliver a more concentrated dose of lupulin, which creates a higher flavour and aroma profile in the final beer.

Add hops before pitching yeast

Adding hops before pitching yeast is a technique that can be used to increase the hop aroma of your beer. Here are some things to consider and steps to follow when using this method:

Timing is crucial when adding hops before pitching yeast. It is recommended to add the hops when the fermentation starts to slow down, usually three to four days after the process has begun. Adding hops too early can cause contamination, as hops are not a sterile product. Waiting until the right time ensures that the beer's pH has dropped to a level that makes it difficult for unwanted organisms to survive, and the alcohol content also helps to kill them. Additionally, the active yeast population will compete with and starve out any other organisms.

When adding hops before pitching yeast, it is important to consider the type of hops you are using. Pellets and whole hops will behave differently in your beer. Pellets will initially float but will eventually settle at the bottom, while whole hops tend to float on the surface. The hop oils are readily available from pellets but may take a week or two to be released from whole hops. If using whole hops, consider putting them in a mesh bag with weights to ensure they stay submerged and have more surface area in contact with the beer.

The amount of hops you add will depend on your desired level of hoppiness and the variety of hops used. For a five-gallon batch, you can use between one and four ounces of hops, depending on their potency and your personal preference. Remember that some hops have a more distinctive aroma and require smaller quantities, while others may need larger amounts to stand out.

When adding hops before pitching yeast, it is crucial to sanitise all equipment that comes into contact with the beer to minimise the risk of contamination. This includes any weights or bags used to contain the hops. Ensure that your wort has cooled to the pitching temperature before adding the hops, as higher temperatures can affect the quality and strength of the hop aroma.

By following these steps and considerations, you can effectively use the "add hops before pitching yeast" technique to increase the hop aroma of your beer without dry hopping.

Avoid dry hopping at the beginning of fermentation

Dry hopping is a technique that involves adding hops to beer after fermentation has started. It imparts a fresh hop aroma and a unique taste to the beer without adding any bitterness. The hops are usually added during the secondary fermentation, or after the yeast has completed its work. However, it is important to note that dry hopping at the beginning of fermentation is not recommended as it can cause contamination in the beer.

The right time to add the hops is when the fermentation starts to slow down, which is usually three to four days after fermentation has begun. At this point, the beer's pH has dropped, making it difficult for organisms on the hops to survive, and the alcohol content also helps to kill them. Additionally, the active yeast population will compete with other organisms, reducing the risk of contamination.

Adding hops earlier in the process, such as at the beginning of fermentation, can have negative effects. The initial stages of fermentation generate large quantities of CO2, which can strip away the desired volatile compounds from the hops. Furthermore, the high activity of fermentation can lead to a "beer volcano," where the release of CO2 from the hops results in an eruption.

Therefore, it is best to avoid dry hopping at the beginning of fermentation to ensure the desired hop aroma and flavor are achieved, and to prevent potential issues such as contamination and "beer volcanoes."

Use a bag to contain hops when dry hopping in a keg

Dry hopping is the process of adding hops to beer after fermentation has begun to impart a fresh hop aroma and a unique taste without any additional bitterness. This technique is often used for hop-forward beers like IPAs and Pale Ales.

When dry hopping in a keg, it is recommended to use a bag to contain the hops and keep them under control. This helps prevent the hops from getting into your lines and tap and ensures they don't end up in your glass. Using a bag also allows for easier removal of the hops and reduces the risk of clogging and sedimentation.

• Use a muslin or nylon bag, also known as a hop bag, to contain the hops while still allowing the flow of beer around them.
• Fill the bag with the desired amount of hops and tie it off to prevent spillage.
• Attach a sanitized weight, such as a stainless steel washer, to the bag to ensure it stays submerged in the keg.
• Use dental floss or a similar non-toxic, food-safe string to suspend the weighted bag inside the keg. Ensure the string is long enough to reach the desired depth without interfering with the sealed keg.
• Consider using a fine mesh bag to further reduce the risk of clogging and facilitate easy removal of the hops.
• Sanitize all equipment, including the bag, weights, and any other tools that come into contact with the beer, to prevent potential infections.
• Pay attention to the duration of the dry hopping process to avoid introducing grassy or vegetal flavours. Typically, 3 to 7 days is recommended, but this may vary depending on the hop variety and beer style.
• Purge the serving keg with CO2 before transferring the beer to minimise the risk of oxidation and off-flavors.
• Maintain the appropriate pressure within the keg during dry hopping by monitoring the pressure relief valve and adjusting the gas as needed.

Dry hop in the secondary fermenter

Dry hopping in the secondary fermenter is generally considered the best place for dry hopping. There are a couple of reasons for this. Firstly, the beer has mostly fermented so the alcohol and low pH help to ward off any bacteria on the un-sanitized hops. Secondly, the vigorous CO2 activity of the primary is finished, so the aroma of the hops won't be scrubbed out of the beer.

The secondary fermenter is also the best option if you want to use a bag to contain the hops. Many brewers use glass carboys with narrow necks as their secondary fermenters, which makes it difficult to get the hops in and out of the slender opening. This is especially true if you want to keep the hops in a bag, making it easier to separate them from the beer.

If you're using a bag, it's recommended to use a bucket with a large opening instead of a carboy, or to simply dump the hops into the fermenter without a bag and then separate them from the beer when racking to your bottling bucket or keg.

When dry hopping in the secondary fermenter, it's important to wait until the right time to add the hops. If you add the hops at the very beginning of fermentation, or close to it, there is a risk of contamination in your beer as hops are not a sterile product. The best time to add the hops is just as the fermentation starts to slow down, which is usually apparent by the head (or kraeusen) starting to diminish and a decrease in bubbling in the airlock. This is typically three to four days after fermentation has begun.

When dry hopping in the secondary fermenter, it's also important to consider the type of hops you are using. Pellets and whole hops behave differently in the beer. Pellets initially float on the surface but eventually settle to the bottom, while whole hops float on the surface almost all the time. This makes it easy to rack out from under them as they will float down on the surface of the beer during transfer. However, the disadvantage is that a good portion of the hops' surface area is sticking up in the headspace and isn't imparting any flavour or aroma to the beer.

To get around this, you can put the whole hops in a mesh bag and then weight the bag so that it sinks. Marbles are a popular item to use as a weight, but it takes a good handful of them. Whatever you use, make sure it can be sanitized and won't react with the beer. Don't use lead fishing weights! You will want to leave whole hops in the beer for at least two weeks.

The amount of hops you use will depend on your personal preference and the variety of hops you are using. A "normal" measurement for dry hopping is between 1-2 oz. (28-56 g) of hops for a five-gallon (19-L) batch. But some brewers use as much as 4 oz. (112 g) if they want a very hoppy beer. If you're using a hop with a high essential oil content, you probably don't want to use as much as you might if you were using something less oily.

Frequently asked questions