Unraveling The Mystery Of Cologne Scents: A Guide

Choosing a cologne can be a difficult task, especially if you're looking for a signature scent. The way a cologne reacts with your body can transform its scent over time, making it seem like an entirely different fragrance.

The first thing to know is that fragrances are made up of different notes. When you first spray a cologne, the top notes are what you smell immediately. These are usually the lightest scents, such as citrus, berries, or herbs. Once the top notes evaporate, the middle or heart notes come through, often adding a floral, fruity, or spicy scent. Finally, the base notes make up the perfume once the middle notes wear down. These are the foundation of the fragrance and are often woody or musky.

There are four main scent families: floral, fresh, oriental, and woody. Floral scents are usually powdery or sweet, with notes of carnation, gardenia, jasmine, or rose. Fresh scents are clean and aquatic, with notes like green leaves, ocean breeze, and cucumber. Oriental fragrances are sweet, spicy, and exotic, often with a base of vanilla or amber. Woody fragrances feature notes of oak, cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli, or pine.

When choosing a cologne, it's also important to consider the concentration of the fragrance oil. Parfum has the highest concentration, followed by eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne. The higher the concentration, the more intense and longer-lasting the scent.

To figure out how a cologne will smell on you, it's best to test it on your skin. Spray it on your pulse points, such as your wrists, neck, and inner elbows, and see how the scent changes over time. It's also a good idea to wear the cologne in different environments, as your surroundings can affect how it smells.

Understand the different scent families

To understand cologne scents, it is important to familiarise yourself with the different scent families. There are four main scent families: floral, fresh, oriental, and woody.

The floral family is the most common and is usually characterised by feminine fragrances. These scents are often described as powdery or sweet, with notes of carnation, gardenia, jasmine, or rose.

The fresh family is defined by zesty, vibrant, and refreshing scents. Citrus-based fragrances are common in this family, with notes of lemon, mandarin, and bergamot. Fresh green fragrances are also included in this family, with herbal and leafy notes like lavender, rosemary, and basil.

Oriental fragrances are warm, rich, and sensual. They often have a base of vanilla or amber, with interesting top notes of cardamom, cinnamon, and other spices.

Woody fragrances are warm and captivating, often favoured for evening wear. These scents include cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, and amber. Woody fragrances are further divided into mossy woods, with a sweet and earthy undertone, and dry woods, which have a smoky, leathery scent.

These four scent families are placed on the Fragrance Wheel, invented by scent expert Michael Edwards, which illustrates their relationship to one another and their corresponding subfamilies. The wheel aids in understanding how different scent families can blend well together, with adjacent families being the most similar.

Learn about the different fragrance types

There are several different types of fragrances, which vary in terms of their concentration of fragrance oil, longevity, and price. The different types of fragrances include parfum, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne, and eau fraiche.

Parfum, or pure perfume, has the highest concentration of fragrance, typically containing between 15% and 40% fragrance, with most falling between 20% and 30%. Parfum fragrances last the longest, usually around six to eight hours, and are the most expensive type. They are good for people with sensitive skin as they contain less alcohol and are less likely to dry out the skin.

Eau de parfum (EDP) has the next highest concentration of fragrance, typically containing between 15% and 20% fragrance. It usually lasts for four to five hours and is less expensive than parfum. While it contains more alcohol than parfum, it is still suitable for sensitive skin. Eau de parfum is one of the most common fragrance types and is suitable for everyday wear.

Eau de toilette (EDT) has a lower concentration of fragrance, typically containing between 5% and 15% fragrance. It is cheaper than eau de parfum and is one of the most popular types of fragrances available. EDT fragrances usually last for two to three hours and are considered by some to be for daywear.

Eau de cologne has a much lower concentration of fragrance than the previous types, typically containing only 2% to 4% fragrance and a high concentration of alcohol. It is the cheapest type of fragrance but the scent usually only lasts for up to two hours. Eau de cologne typically comes in larger bottles and more of the product needs to be used.

Eau fraiche has an even lower concentration of fragrance than eau de cologne, typically containing only 1% to 3% fragrance. It has a very light scent and only lasts for a couple of hours at most.

In addition to these main types, there are also mists, aftershaves, and other types of fragrances available.

Scent Families

There are four main scent families: warm, woody, oriental, and fresh. Floral fragrances are one of the most popular and broadest families, with sweet and flowery scents. Oriental fragrances are warm, sweet, and sometimes spicy, often with notes of cardamom, cinnamon, and vanilla. Woody fragrances are warm and mysterious, often featuring notes of cedarwood, sandalwood, and amber. Fresh fragrances typically feature citrus, water, and green notes, for a refreshing, zesty, and vibrant smell.

Know how body chemistry affects cologne

Body chemistry plays a significant role in how cologne smells on a person. What smells pleasant on one person may not smell the same on another due to each individual's unique body chemistry.

Skin Type

The three major skin types—dry, normal, and oily—react differently to cologne. Cologne evaporates quickly on dry skin due to the lack of oil for the fragrance molecules to adhere to. Normal skin, with its higher oil content, allows fragrances to last longer. Oily skin is the best base for fragrances as the oil molecules help the cologne absorb more easily into the skin.

Pheromones

Pheromones, or "sex scents," are secretions that give each person a unique scent. Fragrances can either complement or clash with one's pheromones, which may explain why a cologne can smell good on one person but not another.

Sweat

Sweat, influenced by factors like diet, race, and physical activity, also affects how cologne smells on a person. While some ingredients, like orange and grass, mix well with sweat, others, like blackcurrant leaf, can smell foul when combined with perspiration.

Diet and Lifestyle

Diet and personal lifestyle choices can also alter a person's scent, which in turn affects how cologne smells on them. For example, a person who eats a lot of spicy food will have a distinct smell that can impart a spicy undertone to fragrances. Similarly, prolonged medication use can alter the body's chemical makeup, impacting its scent.

Learn how to test cologne

Testing cologne or perfume is a very personal process, as you are looking for a scent that resonates with your identity. The way a fragrance reacts with your body can transform its scent over time, so it is important to test colognes or perfumes on your skin. However, it can be overwhelming to choose from the plethora of fragrances available. Here are some tips on how to test cologne:

Start with Blotters

Blotters are the strips of paper found near fragrance display bottles. They are made from absorbent, porous paper that allows perfumes to be absorbed quickly so that you can read how the fragrance smells. Spray two or three quick sprays in a downward motion into a cloud, then pass the scent strip through the cloud and let it absorb. Wave the scented strip under your nose, being careful not to touch it. Blotters should be kept at at least an inch or two away. Take a moment to pause, close your eyes, and inhale.

Try on Skin

After trying fragrances on blotters, it is time to test them on your skin. Spray either your wrist or the back of your hand in a downward motion. Two spritzes should be enough. Drop your hand to your side and wait at least 30 seconds for the scent to settle on your skin. Once it has started to dry, bring your hand up and inhale. Be careful not to touch your nose to your skin – keep it at least an inch or two away.

Take Your Time

Your opinion of a fragrance can change over time, so it is important to take your time when testing a cologne. Do something else for 15-30 minutes and then smell the fragrance again to see how it has developed and how it interacts with your body's natural chemistry.

Mind Your Senses

It can be easy to overload your sense of smell when trying a variety of new fragrances, so it is important to take steps to keep yourself at ease. Avoid wearing other fragrances when testing something new, and try not to test more than three fragrances on blotters in one day. Use olfactory palate cleansers such as coffee beans to reset your sense of smell between fragrances.

Test in Different Environments

Your surroundings can affect how a cologne smells on you, so it is a good idea to test a fragrance on two different days – during the daytime and the evening.

Learn how to apply cologne

Applying cologne is an art form. Done properly, it can give you a boost of confidence and perhaps even earn you a compliment or two. Done improperly, and you risk becoming "that guy" who wears way too much cologne. Here are some tips on how to apply cologne correctly and effectively:

• Apply cologne directly to clean, dry skin, immediately after showering. Showering opens your pores, which helps the scent absorb, and cleanses your body of any other scents.
• Hold the cologne bottle 3-6 inches away from your body. Holding the bottle any closer than 3 inches risks over-application, while spraying further than 6 inches away may result in under-application.
• Apply cologne to heated areas of your body, such as your neck, chest, pulse points, forearms, or inner elbows. The heat helps diffuse the scent throughout the day and allows it to meld with your body chemistry to create your signature scent.
• Start with a light application. Choose one area, such as the neck or forearms, and apply one spray. If you notice that the scent fades quickly, choose another area and apply cologne there the next time. You can also ask a friend or family member for their opinion on whether the application is appropriate, as you can become nose-blind to scents you wear often.
• Re-apply cologne if needed. Depending on the type of cologne, you may need to re-apply, especially if you are going out in the evening. When doing so, simply dab a little onto your pulse points.
• Avoid common mistakes such as spraying cologne on your clothing, splashing it on your skin, or walking through a cloud of mist. These methods can prevent the cologne from mixing with your natural oils, render the scent flat and monochrome, stain or damage your clothing, and lead to over-application or under-application.
• Be mindful of the concentration and strength of your cologne. The term "cologne" typically refers to one of the weakest categories of fragrances. Higher concentrations tend to be more expensive but offer better sillage (the trail left when you walk away) and longevity.
• Understand the different notes of your cologne. Top notes are the initial, lighter scents that linger soon after application. Middle notes are the "heart" of the fragrance, usually including heavier scents like spices or florals. Base notes are the boldest scents that develop last and can be detected all day.

Frequently asked questions