Katrina Rosales
Extracting scent from flowers to make perfume can be done in several ways, including steam distillation, solvent extraction, enfleurage, and maceration. The most popular method is steam distillation, where steam is passed through flower material, causing the volatile aroma compounds to evaporate. Solvent extraction uses a chemical solvent, typically hexane or ethanol, to dissolve the aromatic compounds from the flower. Enfleurage is a rare and expensive process where flowers are placed between layers of fat or oil and left to impregnate the fats with their scent. Maceration is a simple process of bruising petals to release fragrance oils, then soaking them in oil. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages, and the choice depends on the type of flower and the specific fragrance compounds desired.
Characteristics and Values Table for Extracting Scent from Flowers to Make Perfume
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Extraction Methods | Steam distillation, Solvent extraction, Enfleurage extraction, Maceration |
| Flowers Used | Lavender, Rosemary, Eucalyptus, Jasmine, Tuberose, Tagetes, Geranium |
| Tools/Materials | Glass jar/bottle, Oil (olive, corn, sesame, coconut, etc.), Pestle and mortar, Strainer, Spoon, Cheesecloth, Wooden mallet |
| Process Steps | Pick flowers early in the morning, Remove petals, Crush/bruise petals, Add oil to petals, Seal container, Store in a dark place/sunny area for 24 hours, Shake mixture, Strain/filter petals, Repeat process for 3 days, Store fragrant oil |
| Advantages | Preserves aromatic compounds, Efficient method, Consistent and pure product, Selective extraction of compounds, Fragrance of flowers preserved |
| Disadvantages | Denatures aromatic compounds, Expensive, Labour-intensive, Potential residual solvents in the final product, Not suitable for all flowers |
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Steam distillation
The steam distillation process involves passing steam through fresh plant material for over an hour, causing the volatile aroma compounds to evaporate. The plant material is subjected to temperatures exceeding 212 degrees Fahrenheit, which alters some of the aromatic compounds through exposure to high heat. The steam and essential oil vapour are then separated through condensation and collected. This method is suitable for flowers like lavender, tagetes, and geranium.
One of the benefits of steam distillation is its ability to preserve the delicate aromatic compounds present in certain flowers. This results in high-quality essential oils that accurately represent the true and characteristic scent of the flower. Additionally, this method is solvent-free, avoiding the use of chemicals like hexane, which is a significant advantage for producing natural and organic essential oils.
Another product of steam distillation is hydrosol, also known as floral water. Hydrosol has its own unique applications and benefits, making it a valuable co-product of the steam distillation process. Steam distillation is a cost-effective method for extracting essential oils, making it an economical choice for those interested in natural perfume creation.
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Solvent extraction
However, a significant concern with solvent extraction is the potential presence of residual solvents in the final product. To address this, chemical solvents such as hexane or diethyl ether are removed using a vacuum, and the solvents are recycled for reuse.
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Enfleurage
The process of enfleurage can be carried out using either cold or hot methods, depending on the materials being treated. In the hot method, also called maceration, flowers that do not fear heat, such as mimosa, are installed in oil or fat and heated to between 40° and 60° in a bain-marie for two hours. The mixture is regularly mixed, and once complete, it is filtered and washed with alcohol to obtain a product with a high perfume content.
The cold method involves spreading a layer of fat, such as coconut oil, at room temperature on a plate surrounded by a wooden frame. The freshest flowers are then placed manually, one by one, on the fat for about 24 hours. The fat absorbs the scent of the flowers, and the process is repeated several times until the fat is saturated. The flowers are then removed by hand, and the fat is collected and washed with alcohol to separate the odorous molecules and obtain an "ointment absolute" after evaporation.
The main disadvantage of the enfleurage technique is its low yield; 1 kg of fat can only absorb 3 kg of flowers. It is also a manual technique requiring specific know-how and qualified personnel. Additionally, it is a very long and labour-intensive process that requires controlling room temperature and a large number of materials.
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Maceration
To macerate a perfume, it is recommended to spray 5 to 10 pumps of the perfume into the air to get it started. Close the bottle and put it back in its original box. Store the boxed perfume in a cool, dry place away from sunlight, such as the back of a drawer, for 2 to 4 weeks. The best maceration time can vary, with some perfumes ready in a few weeks and others needing several months.
During maceration, the perfume goes through several changes. The top notes, which are the first scent you smell, start to settle. The scent becomes more balanced and the different layers of the fragrance develop and become more noticeable. The process of maceration is similar to steeping, where you keep the bottle in a dark place and shake it every so often. This allows the perfume to mature and develop a more complex and pleasant scent.
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Bruising petals
To extract the scent from flowers to make perfume, one of the methods involves bruising petals. This technique is a simple way to release the fragrance oils from the petals. Firstly, pick flowers early in the morning as the oils are at their peak. The best blooms to choose are those that are just beginning to open, as they contain the most fragrance. Avoid flowers that are in full bloom as their scent has started to fade.
Once you have selected your flowers, remove the petals and place them in a zippered food storage bag. Seal the bag and then gently tap it with a wooden mallet to bruise the petals. This action will help release the fragrance oils without damaging the petals too much. After bruising, place the petals in a glass jar. The glass material is important to avoid any chemical reactions with plastic.
Now, you can add a known volume of oil to the petals. A minimum of 50 ml of oil is recommended, and you can use extra virgin olive oil, corn oil, sesame oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, or fractionated coconut oil. These oils are known as carrier oils and are used to extract and carry the flower's fragrance. Cover all the petals with oil, seal the jar, and shake it to mix the contents well. Leave the mixture in a cool, dark place for 24 to 48 hours.
After this period, open the jar and use a strainer to separate the oil from the petals. Collect the oil in another container and press down on the petals with a spoon to extract as much of the scented oil as possible. For a stronger scent, you can repeat the process with fresh petals and the same oil. This technique of bruising petals is a straightforward way to release the fragrance from flowers and create your own unique perfume.
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Frequently asked questions
The best method depends on the type of flower and the specific fragrance compounds you want to extract. Steam distillation is the most widely used method, but other methods include solvent extraction, enfleurage, and maceration.
Steam is passed through the flower material, causing the volatile aroma compounds to evaporate. The steam and essential oil vapour are then condensed and collected separately.
Steam distillation is suitable for flowers with high oil content, such as lavender, rosemary, eucalyptus, tagetes, and geranium.
Solvent extraction involves using a solvent, typically hexane or ethanol, to dissolve and extract the aromatic compounds from the flower material. This method is ideal for delicate flowers with low oil content as it minimises the risk of damaging the flower during the extraction process.
You can use a simple method of covering flower petals in oil. First, pick flowers that are just beginning to bloom as they contain the most fragrance. Remove the petals and place them in a jar. Cover the petals with oil (olive oil or another plant-based oil) and shake the jar until well mixed. Seal the jar and leave it in a dark place for 24 hours. After this time, the oil should have absorbed the scent. Drain the petals, collect the oil, and store it in a glass bottle.
