Lance Carson
The process of extracting perfume oils from plants is a complex one, with a variety of methods being used, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Steam distillation is the most common technique, involving the use of pressurized steam to rupture plant structures and release volatile and non-volatile compounds. Other methods include solvent extraction, which uses chemicals like hexane or benzene to dissolve plants, and enfleurage, a traditional and labour-intensive method that uses fat to capture the scent of flowers. The choice of method depends on the plant and the desired outcome, with some methods better suited to certain plants and others offering more efficient extraction or a higher-quality product.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Materials | Flowers, plants, woods |
| Types of extracts | Absolute, essential oil, resin |
| Extraction methods | Solvent extraction, enfleurage, steam distillation, dry distillation, cold pressing, supercritical fluid extraction, maceration |
| Solvents | Benzene, petroleum, hexane, ethyl alcohol, CO2 |
| Carrier oils | Olive oil, corn oil, sesame oil, coconut oil |
| Equipment | Rotating drum, still, vacuum |
| Quality | Artisan, natural, organic |
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Steam distillation
To perform steam distillation, you will need a distillation device, also known as a still. This device consists of a large steel tank topped with serpentine pipes. Place the plants inside the still and add between 5 and 10 times the same volume of water. The amount of water added depends on the flowers, plants, bark, or roots being distilled.
Once the plants and water are in the still, boiling steam is injected into the chamber. The heat from the steam vaporizes the aroma components in the plants, and the vapour containing these components rises through the serpentine pipe. As the vapour cools, it forms condensation, which is collected. This condensed liquid is called floral water, hydrolats, or hydrosols.
It is important to note that steam distillation is not suitable for all plants. For example, it is not recommended for citrus plants like lemon and bergamot, as the heat-sensitive aroma components in these plants can change and decompose when exposed to high temperatures for extended periods. Additionally, steam distillation is not suitable for extracting water-soluble fragrance components in oils, as they will dissolve into the water during the process.
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Solvent extraction
The process of solvent extraction involves placing the plants in a rotating drum and coating them with a solvent such as hexane, ethanol, benzene, or petroleum. The solvent dissolves the plant material, leaving behind a waxy substance containing the oils. This substance is then dissolved in ethyl alcohol, which is burned off to obtain the perfume oil. The use of carbon dioxide (CO2) as a solvent is also in high demand, especially for industrial hemp extraction services, as it is environmentally friendly, non-flammable, and non-hazardous.
However, a significant concern with solvent extraction is the potential presence of residual solvents in the final product. Stringent purification steps are necessary to remove all traces of solvents to ensure product safety and quality. The purification process should aim for a residue level of 1 part per million, and if a petroleum-like smell is present, it indicates inadequate purification.
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Enfleurage
The enfleurage technique involves spreading a layer of fat (animal fat or solid plant oil, such as coconut oil) on a plate of glass. Delicate petals or flowers are then placed on top of the fat layer, close together but without touching. Another plate of glass is placed on top, and the process is repeated until there are up to ten layers of flowers and fat. The entire setup is then left at room temperature for around three days. After about a month and up to twelve changes of flower layers, the fat is scraped from the glass plates, resulting in a waxy enfleurage pomade.
To obtain the essential oils from the pomade, ethyl alcohol is added to dissolve the fragrant oils. The alcohol is then evaporated, leaving behind only the pure essential oils. This process is known as maceration.
Hot enfleurage, also called maceration, involves installing plants that can withstand heat, such as mimosa, in oil or fat. The mixture is then heated to between 40°C and 60°C in a bain-marie for about two hours, with regular stirring. Once complete, the mixture is filtered and washed with alcohol to obtain a highly perfumed product.
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Maceration
Without heat
This method involves soaking flowers in a carrier oil for an extended period, typically ranging from several hours to a few days or even months. During this time, the carrier oil absorbs the fragrance of the flowers. The flowers are then removed and replaced with fresh flowers, and this process is repeated multiple times to enhance the fragrance concentration. The oil is then filtered to remove any residual flower material, leaving behind a fragrant oil that can be used as a perfume or incorporated into cosmetic products.
With heat
This method is faster and involves using steam to speed up the process. The flowers and oil are placed in a double boiler, bain-marie, or glass bowl that can fit over a pan. The steam from the water gently heats the top container, infusing the flowers and oil. After 24 hours, the scents from the flowers should be fully absorbed by the oil.
Choosing the right ingredients
When choosing a carrier oil, it is recommended to use an oil with little or no scent, such as apricot or jojoba oil, if you want to capture the true scent of the flower. If you are using a plant for its medicinal properties, such as daisy or calendula, then a scented base oil like olive or sunflower oil can be used. For the plant material, you can use fresh or dried flowers and herbs, either grown yourself, picked wild, or bought from a trusted supplier. It is important to ensure that the plants have not been sprayed with chemicals.
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Cold pressing
This technique is suitable for many oils that degrade when exposed to heat, such as those derived from citrus fruits like lemons, oranges, and grapefruits. The process involves scraping or pricking the biomass, usually fruit peels, to release the oil glands, before pressing and rinsing the oils away using water. The water and oils are then separated.
Cold-pressed oils retain natural flavours, colours, sterols, and vitamins. However, not all plant biomass is suitable for cold pressing, as some constituents may be left behind within the biomass, and it is not efficient for high-volume extraction.
In ancient times, the cold-press method was used in various places, each with its own unique process. For example, in Switzerland, the temperature during the cold press was maintained below 50 degrees Celsius, while in Germany, women used a manual process with a container and a wooden frame to extract the oil, ensuring the temperature did not exceed 95 degrees Celsius.
Overall, cold pressing is a traditional and effective method for extracting essential oils from plants, particularly those that are sensitive to heat, although it may not be suitable for all types of plant materials or large-scale production.
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Frequently asked questions
The three types of materials that can be extracted from plants, flowers, and woods are absolutes, essential oils, and resins.
Steam distillation is the most common extraction technique for essential oils. It involves passing steam through fresh plant material for over an hour, causing the plant material to reach temperatures over 212 degrees Fahrenheit. The steam then cools down, and the aromatic volatile oils are trapped with the steam.
Solvent extraction involves placing plants into a rotating drum and coating them with a solvent such as benzene or petroleum. The solvent dissolves the plants, leaving behind a waxy substance containing the oils. The substance is then dissolved in ethyl alcohol, which is burned off, resulting in perfume oil.
Enfleurage is a traditional and rare method of extracting oils from flowers using fat. Tiny blooms, such as jasmine or tuberose, would be pressed into glass sheets coated with fat for several days to capture their scent.
