Antonio Mcgowan
The process of perfume extraction involves separating aromatic compounds from raw materials, such as plants, flowers, and woods. This can be done through various methods, including distillation, solvent extraction, expression, sieving, or enfleurage. The final product can be essential oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters, each with its own unique aroma. While some ancient extraction methods are still used today, modern technology has also introduced newer, more efficient processes. For example, solvent extraction involves using solvents like benzene or petroleum to dissolve plants, leaving a waxy substance containing the oils, while distillation collects aroma compounds through the condensation of distilled vapour.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Materials | Natural ingredients such as plants, flowers, woods |
| Types of extracts | Absolute, essential oil, resin, synthetic perfume ingredients |
| Ancient extraction methods | Enfleurage, solvent extraction, distillation |
| Modern extraction methods | Expression, volatile solvent extraction, supercritical CO2 extraction |
| Enfleurage process | Fat is spread on a glass frame, flowers are changed by hand until the grease absorbs the perfume |
| Solvent extraction process | Plants are placed in a rotating drum and coated with a solvent like benzene or petroleum |
| Distillation process | Botanical materials are heated, essential oils evaporate with the steam, compounds are collected through condensation |
| Expression process | Raw materials are pressed, squeezed, or compressed and essential oils are collected |
| Supercritical CO2 extraction process | Carbon dioxide is put under high pressure, a supercritical fluid forms and extracts hydrophobic aromatics from the plant material |
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Solvent extraction
The concrete is further treated with alcohol to separate the aromatic compounds, resulting in an absolute. The by-product of this process is a waxy residue, which retains a subtle fragrance. This can be repurposed in candles, solid perfumes, cosmetics, and even in certain perfumery applications. Floral waxes are another by-product of solvent extraction, which are often used in skincare products, solid fragrances, and as a sustainable way to use otherwise discarded material.
Another modern technique is supercritical fluid extraction, which uses carbon dioxide as a solvent. When carbon dioxide is put under high pressure at slightly above room temperature, it forms a supercritical fluid, acting as both a gas and a liquid. This fluid extracts the aromatic compounds without exposing them to high temperatures, and the CO2 evaporates once the pressure is released, leaving a pure extract.
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Enfleurage
There are two types of enfleurage: cold and hot. Cold enfleurage is used for the most delicate plants and flowers. It involves spreading grease onto a glass frame and covering it with flowers. The flowers are changed by hand every 24 to 48 hours until the grease is completely saturated with the fragrance. This process can take several months. On the other hand, hot enfleurage, also known as maceration, involves heating plants that can withstand heat, such as mimosa, in oil or fat to a temperature between 40°C and 60°C. The mixture is heated for about two hours and regularly stirred.
Once the desired infusion is achieved in both cold and hot enfleurage, the product is filtered to remove any remaining flower parts. Then, it is washed with alcohol to retain only the captured fragrance. This final product, called "ointment absolute" or simply "absolute", is highly valued by perfumers.
Although enfleurage produces high-quality fragrances, it has several disadvantages. Firstly, it has a low yield, as one kilogram of fat can only absorb three kilograms of flowers. Secondly, it is a manual and time-consuming process that requires skilled personnel and a large number of materials. It is also very expensive, which is why it has been largely abandoned since the 1930s in favour of more efficient extraction methods such as volatile solvent extraction. However, some manufacturers still use enfleurage in a traditional and confidential manner, especially for certain flowers like tuberose.
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Distillation
The distillation method is determined based on the plant material being used and the manufacturer's preference. For example, roses are covered with water and boiled to release fragrant principles that are carried through a coil and condensed. The liquid obtained is a mixture of essential oil and water, which are then separated. The type of distillation technique, as well as factors like temperature, pressure, and distillation time, influence the quality and fragrance of the resulting essential oil.
The history of distillation in perfumery dates back to ancient times, with the modern method developed in the Middle Ages by Arab alchemists. Today, distillation remains an essential technique in the perfume industry for obtaining aromatic compounds from plants. It is favoured for its efficiency and the quality of the results, allowing perfumers to create customized oil blends at a reasonable cost.
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Expression
The expression process was originally carried out manually using a "sponge" technique. The citrus fruit was cut in half, the pulp was removed, and the skin was moistened. After letting it sit for about 10 hours, the essence was pressed onto a set of sponges. After decanting, one of these sponges was pressed to extract the fruit's essence into a vase. However, this manual method has now been largely replaced by industrial processes. In modern techniques, the whole fruit is used and pressed. A centrifuge is then used to separate the juice and essential oil from the fruit.
Volatile solvent extraction involves placing plants into a rotating drum and coating them with a solvent such as benzene or petroleum. The solvent dissolves the plants, leaving behind a waxy substance containing the oils. This substance is then dissolved in ethyl alcohol, which is burned off, resulting in perfume oil.
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Supercritical CO2 extraction
The process of supercritical CO2 extraction is used to separate aromatics from plant materials. It is a safe, effective, and gentle method that does not require heat or toxic chemicals. CO2, or carbon dioxide, exists in solid, liquid, and gaseous states, and can transition between these states based on changes in temperature and pressure. When compressed at high pressure and low temperature, CO2 becomes “supercritical”, sharing characteristics of both a liquid and a gas.
In the supercritical state, CO2 is used as a solvent to extract essential oils from plant materials. It penetrates the plant material to extract volatile oils, resulting in an essential oil that smells closer to the original plant than steam-distilled essential oils. This process is more expensive than traditional distillation but allows for a more natural scent and the extraction of ingredients that traditional methods cannot extract.
The extraction occurs under high pressure, typically above 73 bars, and at a low temperature of around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The plants or materials are placed in a basket inside an extractor chamber, where the CO2 is introduced in liquid form. The high pressure and low temperature allow the plant materials to release their aromas, and the absence of oxygen prevents oxidation.
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Frequently asked questions
There are five methods of perfume extraction: Expression, Distillation, Enfleurage, Volatile Solvent Extraction, and Supercritical CO2 Extraction.
Expression is a mechanical extraction process used only on citrus fruits. The fruit is pressed at high pressure to obtain the liquid called the "absolute".
Enfleurage is a traditional method of extracting oils from flowers using fat. The flowers are pressed into glass sheets coated with fat for several days to capture their scent. This method is no longer used today.
Supercritical CO2 Extraction uses carbon dioxide under high pressure to extract fragrant compounds from raw materials. This method produces an essence that closely resembles the original scent.
You can extract fragrance from flowers at home by crushing or bruising flower petals and mixing them with a known volume of oil. Seal the mixture in a jar and leave it in a dark place for 24 hours. After that, strain the petals and collect the scented oil.
