Lance Carson
Dating vintage perfume can be a tricky business, but there are some tell-tale signs to look out for. The style of the box or label can indicate its age, for example, Art Nouveau dates from 1900-1920, Art Deco from the mid-1920s to the 1940s, and psychedelic designs from the late 1960s to early 1970s. The presence of certain words and labels can also be helpful; for instance, the word dram was commonly used in the 1930s and 1940s, and any reference to a product being hypoallergenic indicates a date post-1975. The condition of the box and bottle can also provide clues, as old labels tend to turn brown with age, and the colour and texture of the perfume itself will change over time, becoming darker and thicker.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Warning labels | Warning–Use only as directed. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling the contents can be harmful or fatal". This warning was approved by the FDA starting in 1975. |
| Hypoallergenic labels | After 1975 |
| Content denoted as "dram" | Used mostly in the 1930s and 1940s |
| Sealed perfumes with some perfume missing | Alcohol and water content evaporated due to heat, light, and poor storage |
| Vintage perfume colour | Darkens over time, with the oldest perfumes having a dark, thick, syrupy texture |
| Old labels | Turn brown naturally due to oxidation of the paper |
| Styles of boxes or labels | Art Nouveau (1900-1920s), Art Deco (mid-1920s to 1940s), Psychedelic (late 1960s to early 1970s) |
| Revenue stamps | Found on imported scents coming into America in the early 20th century |
| Bottles with "Made in Occupied Japan" | Made from September 1945 until April 1952 |
| Enameled lettering | Used after the 1930s, commonly found in the 1940s |
| Patent numbers | Frequent in the 1930s and 1940s |
| Rough pontil mark | Found on bottles made before 1850 |
| Embossed cardboard boxes | Produced by Coty |
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What You'll Learn
- Box design and label style: Art Nouveau (1900-1920s), Art Deco (1920s-1940s), Psychedelic (1960s-1970s)
- Condition of the label: Old labels turn brown and get stained over time
- Bottle design: Plastic-coated bottles were manufactured from 1953 onwards
- Bottle texture: Vintage Coty bottles are known for their moulded plastic or Bakelite tops
- Perfume colour: Vintage perfumes darken over time due to evaporation of water and alcohol
Box design and label style: Art Nouveau (1900-1920s), Art Deco (1920s-1940s), Psychedelic (1960s-1970s)
Art Nouveau (1900s-1920s):
The Art Nouveau movement, which began in England, sought to bring beauty to all aspects of life and people. It is characterised by floral designs and was used anywhere from packaging to logos. Art Nouveau was intended to be inclusive of all artists and embraced different cultures. The style gained more attention after the World Exhibition in Paris in the 1900s. If your vintage Coty perfume box features floral patterns and designs inspired by nature, it is likely from the Art Nouveau period.
Art Deco (1920s-1940s):
Art Deco label designs often feature minimal and feminine themes. For example, a popular Art Deco label idea is a seductive woman laying down in a seashell. If your vintage Coty perfume box features similar designs, it is likely from the Art Deco period.
Psychedelic (1960s-1970s):
Psychedelic boxes often feature images of mushrooms and mandalas, with autumn colour palettes. If your vintage Coty perfume box has similar features, it is likely from the Psychedelic period.
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Condition of the label: Old labels turn brown and get stained over time
The condition of the label on a vintage Coty perfume box can provide some clues as to its age. Over time, old labels will turn brown due to the natural oxidation of the paper. This process causes the paper to become stained and discoloured. Additionally, the presence of water or perfume can cause stains on the labels over the years. Therefore, if the label on a Coty perfume box is brown and stained, it is likely that the box is quite old.
However, it is important to note that the style of the box and label can also provide important dating information. For example, Art Nouveau styles generally indicate a date range of 1900-1920s, while Art Deco styles were more common in the mid-1920s to early 1940s. Psychedelic designs, on the other hand, were popular in the late 1960s to early 1970s.
Another factor to consider is the warning label. If the Coty perfume box contains a warning label stating, "Warning--Use only as directed. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling the contents can be harmful or fatal", it dates to 1975 or later. This warning label was approved by the FDA in 1975. Similarly, if the box or label includes the term "hypoallergenic", it also dates to 1975 or later.
The use of certain words or measurements can also help determine the age of the Coty perfume box. For example, the word "dram" to denote the contents was used mostly during the 1930s and 1940s. These bottles were typically small and purse-sized, making them affordable for women during the Great Depression and World War II. If the label on the Coty perfume box mentions "drams" or has a measurement of 1/8 oz or 5 ml, it likely dates to this earlier era.
Finally, the presence of stains on the label can also be indicative of age. If the label is stained, it could be due to the natural evaporation of the perfume's alcohol and water content over time, caused by heat, light, and poor storage conditions. This is a common issue with sealed perfumes, and the presence of stains on the label could suggest that the perfume is quite old.
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Bottle design: Plastic-coated bottles were manufactured from 1953 onwards
When it comes to dating vintage Coty perfume, the design of the bottle and box can provide some clues. Plastic-coated bottles, for instance, were manufactured from 1953 onwards. However, it is important to remember that some perfumes were produced for many years after their launch dates, while others were only sold for a short time.
The style of the box or label can also be indicative of the era. Art Nouveau styles, for instance, generally date from 1900 to the 1920s, while Art Deco spans the mid-1920s to the 1940s, and psychedelic designs indicate the late 1960s to early 1970s. Old labels naturally turn brown due to oxidation, but water and perfume stains on labels also suggest the passage of time.
Another notable shift in packaging occurred after August 1975, when an increase in crude oil prices led to more standardised packaging and a move away from elaborate bottle shapes towards plain stock or "omnibus" bottles. Chanel, for example, is known for using omnibus bottles for most of its line.
Prior to the 1950s, it is worth looking out for specific markings and materials. A "rough pontil" mark, for instance, indicates a bottle made before 1850. This mark is a circular broken glass edge at the bottom of the bottle, where the pontil rod was broken off after the bottle was blown. Bottles made in France after the 1950s may be marked with an "S" or "SGD", indicating manufacture by the Saint Gobain Desjonqueres glass factory. French bottles made after the 1920s may feature a "VB" or "BR" mark, denoting production by Verreries Brosse, who installed semi-automatic bottle-making machines in that decade.
Other dating clues include revenue stamps on imported scents coming into America in the early 20th century, and labels with a number and the initials TDSP (indicating the Tratado sobre el Derecho Sustantivo de Patentes, or Substantive Patent Law Treaty) on bottles destined for the Mexican market in the 1930s and 1940s.
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Bottle texture: Vintage Coty bottles are known for their moulded plastic or Bakelite tops
The texture of a vintage Coty perfume bottle can provide important clues about its age. Coty perfume bottles with moulded plastic or Bakelite tops were typically produced during specific historical periods, and understanding these periods can help date the bottle.
Bakelite, for instance, was commonly used in the early 20th century. By the 1920s, the Art Deco movement influenced perfume bottle design, incorporating Bakelite stoppers. Coty's perfume bottles from this era reflected this trend, as seen in the "Obelisque" flacon, a tall and slender bottle topped with a flat, square frosted glass stopper adorned with foliate motifs and the name "Coty." Introduced in 1935, this bottle exemplifies the fusion of Art Deco aesthetics and Bakelite usage.
The 1930s also witnessed the introduction of moulded plastic in Coty perfume bottles. During this decade, Coty fragrances were packaged in boxes with glass-slipper high heels, showcasing the emerging use of moulded plastic in bottle design. Additionally, Coty's "Peacock Presentation," launched in 1935, featured bottles with peacock eye motifs and came in three sizes: purse, travel, and boudoir. This line included fragrances such as Chypre, L'Aimant, L'Origan, Paris, and Emeraude.
The transition from Bakelite to moulded plastic in Coty perfume bottles reflects the evolving preferences and technological advancements in the fragrance industry. Bakelite, as one of the first synthetic plastics, found popularity in the early 20th century. However, by the 1930s, moulded plastic emerged as a versatile alternative, offering new possibilities for creative and elaborate bottle designs.
Examining the texture and material of the bottle's top, whether it be Bakelite or moulded plastic, can provide valuable insights into the historical context and approximate age of vintage Coty perfume bottles.
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Perfume colour: Vintage perfumes darken over time due to evaporation of water and alcohol
The colour of vintage perfumes may darken over time due to several factors, primarily the evaporation of water and alcohol. This process is accelerated by heat, light, and poor storage conditions. The natural ingredients in perfumes are susceptible to variations in sunlight and temperature, causing them to evolve and change colour. Exposure to light, specifically ultraviolet (UV) rays, can also contribute to the colour change by accelerating the oxidation process. Aldehydes, which are compounds present in perfumes, are particularly vulnerable to oxidation, leading to chemical changes that result in colour alterations.
Additionally, the fragrance molecules themselves can break down or reorganise when exposed to sunlight, leading to visible colour changes. This is similar to how a sliced apple turns brown when exposed to air. However, it is important to note that colour changes alone do not necessarily indicate that the perfume has expired or gone bad. The scent and chemical composition of the perfume are more critical factors in determining its condition.
To prolong the lifespan of vintage perfumes and minimise colour changes, proper storage is essential. It is recommended to store perfumes in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and temperature fluctuations. Keeping the bottle tightly sealed when not in use helps minimise oxygen exposure, which can affect both the scent and colour. Avoiding areas with high temperatures is crucial, as heat can accelerate oxidation and further contribute to colour changes.
Determining the age of vintage Coty perfume can be challenging, but there are a few methods to consider. Firstly, the style of the box or label can provide valuable information. Art Nouveau styles, for example, were popular from 1900 to the 1920s, while Art Deco styles were prevalent in the mid-1920s to the 1940s. Revenue stamps on imported scents can also help narrow down the timeframe, as these were commonly found on bottles entering America in the early 20th century. Additionally, vintage advertisements in old magazines can provide clues about the perfume's age, as they usually include dates that can be used for comparison.
Overall, while the darkening of vintage perfumes due to water and alcohol evaporation is a natural process, proper storage practices can help preserve the integrity of the fragrance and minimise colour changes over time.
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Frequently asked questions
The age of a vintage perfume box can be determined by the style of the box and the label. For example, Art Nouveau is generally from the 1900s to the 1920s, Art Deco is from the mid-1920s to the 1940s, and psychedelic designs are from the late 1960s to early 1970s. Additionally, old labels naturally turn brown, and water and perfume can cause stains on labels over the years.
Knowing when the perfume was first launched can be helpful. Some perfumes were produced for many years after their launch, while others were sold for a shorter period. The colour and texture of the perfume can also indicate its age. Vintage perfumes start to darken over time, and the oldest perfumes have a very dark, thick, syrupy texture due to the evaporation of alcohol and water, leaving a high concentration of oils and chemicals.
Coty perfume boxes were made of embossed cardboard. Some vintage Coty perfume bottles feature moulded plastic or bakelite tops, which are sometimes marbled with gold.
You can send photos to websites and forums dedicated to vintage perfumes, such as Cleopatra's Boudoir, to seek further information and opinions from experts and enthusiasts.
