Heidi Norton
Coty is a perfume brand with a rich history, and its vintage fragrances are sought-after by collectors. Dating a Coty perfume bottle can be done by examining its signature, which has evolved over time. Older bottles feature the signature R. Lalique in block lettering, while bottles produced after the founder's death in 1945 are signed Lalique France. Knowing the launch date of a perfume is also helpful, as some perfumes were produced for many years, while others were sold for a short time. Additionally, specific markings on the base of the bottle, such as Baccarat, Lalique, or Cristal Nancy, can indicate value and provide clues about the production date.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Bottle markings | Baccarat, Lalique, Cristal Nancy, Cristal Romesnil |
| Bottle markings dates | Baccarat bottles were systematically engraved from 1936 onwards. Cristal Nancy closed in 1934. |
| Lalique signatures | Older bottles are marked R. Lalique in block lettering. Bottles signed Rene Lalique or R. Lalique were used until 1945. After 1945, bottles were marked Lalique France. |
| Other markings | Enameled lettering (serigraphy) on glass bottles was used after the 1930s. Patent numbers on the base of the bottle were common in the 1930s and 1940s. |
| Bottle colour | Bottles varied in colour, e.g. Estee Lauder's Youth Dew fragrance bottle is turquoise blue. |
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What You'll Learn
Examine the base of the bottle for acid stamps
Examining the base of a perfume bottle for acid stamps is a key step in dating a perfume bottle. Acid stamps on the base of a bottle can indicate the manufacturer, with markings such as Baccarat, Lalique, Cristal Nancy, or Cristal Romesnil adding value to the bottle. Cristal Nancy ceased operations in 1934, so its presence on a bottle indicates it was produced before this date. Baccarat bottles were systematically engraved with a mark from 1936 onwards, while prior to this, they were acid-etched, stamped, or had round paper labels, with some bearing no distinguishing marks.
Lalique perfumes were marked with a signature on the bases, and the style of this signature can be used to date the bottle. Older bottles are marked with "R. Lalique" in block lettering, while bottles signed "Rene Lalique" or "R. Lalique" date up to 1945 when Rene Lalique passed away. After this date, bottles are marked simply with "Lalique France". Lalique bottles also feature an elongated oval indentation in the centre of the base, a feature not present on Coty-made bottles, presumably to cut costs.
Baccarat bottles can be identified by their height of 3.25" and are known for their use of acid etching, a technique that creates faint markings that become harder to discern over time. Baccarat bottles were also ground at the factory to fit their corresponding stoppers, and may feature etched matching numbers on the base and the bottom of the stopper. Older bottles may also feature their name and origin stamped somewhere on the bottle, although stickers replaced stamping in the 1940s. From the 1970s onwards, batch codes were introduced, consisting of four numbers indicating the year and month of production.
Coty bottles made at Coty's own glassworks in France are marked "Coty France" on the base, either embossed in the glass or acid-stamped. The presence of acid stamps on the base of a perfume bottle can thus provide valuable information about its manufacturer, age, and authenticity.
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Identify the style of the signature
To identify the age of a perfume bottle, one can look at the style of the signature on the base of the bottle. For instance, older bottles are often marked with "R. Lalique" in block lettering. Bottles manufactured until 1945, the year Rene Lalique died, were signed "Rene Lalique" or "R. Lalique". After 1945, the signature changed to "Lalique France".
Acid stamps on the base of the bottle can also be indicative of the age of the perfume bottle. For instance, "Cristal Nancy" was stamped on bottles manufactured until 1934. Baccarat bottles were acid-etched, stamped, or had round paper labels until 1936, after which they were systematically engraved with a mark. Enameled lettering, also known as serigraphy, on glass bottles started being used after the 1930s and was a common feature in the 1940s. Patent numbers on the base of the bottle can also be used to look up patent dates, which were frequent in the 1930s and 1940s.
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Research the dates that signature style was used
Coty is an old perfume house, with the earliest edition of its fragrances created in 1905 and the newest from 2024. The brand was founded by François Coty in 1904, with its first fragrance, La Rose Jacqueminot, introduced that same year. Coty fragrances were made in collaboration with several perfumers, including Francois Coty himself.
Coty partnered with ceramic artist and jeweler Rene Lalique, who designed ornate bottles and gilded labels in the Art Nouveau style for early Coty creations such as L'Origan. Lalique's first bottle design for Coty was for the fragrance L'Effleurt. This bottle featured an ethereal woman gracefully emerging from hazy swirls of fragrance released by flowers in bloom, a beautiful representation of the Art Nouveau style that Lalique was known for.
The signature style of Lalique's bottles for Coty changed over the years, and you can date a bottle by the style of the signature. Older bottles are marked R. Lalique in block lettering, and this mark was used until 1945 when Rene Lalique died. After this date, bottles were simply marked Lalique France.
Other ways to date Coty perfume bottles include looking for patent numbers on the base of the bottle, which were frequent in the 1930s and 1940s, and checking for enameled lettering (also known as serigraphy) on glass bottles, which started being used after the 1930s and was a regular feature in the 1940s onwards. Additionally, bottles with markings such as Baccarat, Lalique, Cristal Nancy, or Cristal Romesnil add value, as these indicate the manufacturer. Cristal Nancy closed its doors in 1934, while Baccarat bottles were systematically engraved with a mark starting in 1936.
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Look for enameled lettering, which was common after the 1930s
If you're looking to date a perfume bottle, one of the key indicators of its age is the style of the signature on the bottle. For instance, older bottles are often marked with block lettering, and the specific signature style can help pinpoint the era. Another indicator is the use of enameled lettering, which was common after the 1930s. Enameled lettering, also known as serigraphy, started to be used on glass bottles in the 1930s and became a regular feature in the 1940s and beyond. This type of lettering is quite fragile and can be easily lost during cleaning.
Enameled lettering is a process of decorating or covering glass with enamel, a type of oil-based, high-gloss paint. This technique provides superior vibrancy, flexibility, and durability to the lettering, making it a desirable feature for perfume bottles. The enamel paint is applied using a silkscreen process, resulting in a clean, sharp edge without brush marks. It is designed for traditional sign painting and is commonly used on store fronts and vehicles.
When examining a perfume bottle for enameled lettering, it's important to look for certain characteristics. Enameled lettering will have a superior flow, resulting in a clean, sharp edge. It will also have excellent coverage, known as "single-stroke coverage," which means the lettering can be achieved in a single stroke. This type of lettering is designed to be applied to clean, dry surfaces that are free from any contaminants like wax, grease, dust, or chalk.
Additionally, enameled lettering has specific drying times that should be considered. At temperatures above 65°F, the drying time is optimal, while temperatures between 50°F and 65°F will result in much slower drying. The paint will not completely dry if the temperature falls below 50°F. Understanding these drying times can provide further confirmation of the presence of enameled lettering.
By considering the presence of enameled lettering and combining this information with other indicators, such as the style of the signature and the shape and color of the bottle, you can gain a better understanding of the approximate age of a Coty perfume bottle.
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Check the bottle for a patent number
Checking the bottle for a patent number is a great way to date a perfume bottle. Patent dates were frequent in the 1930s and 1940s, and you can look up the patent number on US patent webpages online. Look on the base of your bottle for any markings. For example, Lalique perfumes were marked with a signature on the base. The signature has changed over the years, and you can date a bottle by the style of the signature. Older bottles are marked R. Lalique in block lettering. Baccarat bottles were systematically engraved with a mark from 1936 onwards. Prior to this, they were acid-etched, stamped, and some had round paper labels, while many have no distinguishing marks.
Cristal Nancy is another manufacturer to look out for. They closed their doors in 1934, so any bottle with their marking will be from before this date. Avon, Dana, Elizabeth Arden, Studio Girl, Legend of Love, Coty, and Prince Matchabelli all used plastic-coated bottles for various perfume mists and colognes. These bottles stand out due to their rubbery-feeling surfaces and aerosol sprays.
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Frequently asked questions
Unfortunately, I could not find information on dating Coty perfume bottles based on their signatures. However, knowing when your perfume was first launched can be helpful in determining its age.
Look on the base of your bottle for acid stamps for Baccarat, Lalique, Cristal Nancy, or Cristal Romesnil, as these markings add value. Cristal Nancy closed down in 1934. Baccarat bottles were engraved with a mark from 1936 onwards, while older bottles are marked with "R. Lalique" in block lettering.
Yes, enameled lettering (serigraphy) on glass bottles became common after the 1930s and was regularly used in the 1940s. Bottles with the label "Made in Occupied Japan" were produced from September 1945 to April 1952. Additionally, patent dates on the base of the bottle can be used to look up the corresponding information online.
