Opium Perfume: A Guide To Dating This Scent

how to date opium perfume

Opium is a women's perfume by Yves Saint Laurent, launched in 1977 in France and 1978 in the USA. The scent has top notes of mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, and pepper, floral middle notes of jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, and orris root, and woody base notes of sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, and more. The scent has been described as soft, sexy, smooth, woody, spicy, and sweet. Opium was one of the most successful fragrances in the world, but it has since been discontinued and replaced by Black Opium due to reports of allergic reactions. Opium is one of the most counterfeited perfumes in history, so it can be difficult to find authentic vintage bottles.

Characteristics Values
Launch Year 1977 in France and 1978 in the USA
Launch Event The launch party in New York in 1978 was one of the wildest, iconic and most sumptuous of the 1970s
Perfumers Jean Amic, Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Raymond Chaillan
Manufacturer Roure
Bottle Design Inspired by the Japanese "inro", a small lacquered case worn under the kimono
Bottle Tassels Difficult to obtain, slowing down production
Top Notes Mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, pepper, bay leaf
Middle Notes Jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, orris root
Base Notes Sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, castoreum, amber, musk, patchouli, tolu balsam, vetiver
Variants Opium pour Homme, Black Opium
Discontinuation Discontinued due to allergic reactions

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Opium perfume's controversial name

Opium perfume, created for the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent, has had a controversial history since its launch in 1977. The perfume's name, "Opium", immediately courted controversy and accusations that the brand designer Yves Saint Laurent was condoning drug use.

In the United States, a group of Chinese Americans took offence at the name, arguing that opium represented "a menace that destroyed many lives in China". They formed a committee called the American Coalition Against Opium and Drug Abuse and demanded a public apology from Saint Laurent for "his insensitivity to Chinese history and Chinese American concerns". The group expressed outrage at the choice of name and called for it to be changed.

However, the controversy and press coverage only helped to increase sales, with the perfume soon becoming a bestseller. The scent was an unusual blend of patchouli, myrrh and vanilla, with top notes of mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander and pepper, and it quickly became a popular product.

The perfume has continued to spark controversy over the years, with highly sexualised advertising campaigns in the late 1990s and early 2000s. One such campaign, featuring English model Sophie Dahl, was deemed too sexually suggestive and degrading to women, and was banned in several countries.

Despite the controversies, Opium perfume has endured as a popular and well-known fragrance, with many enthusiasts collecting vintage bottles and decants. The unique blend of spices and oriental notes has created a lasting legacy in the world of perfumery.

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Vintage Opium bottles

The process of hunting down vintage Opium bottles can be challenging but rewarding for collectors. Some sources suggest that small bottles of Opium, ranging from the late 1970s to the early 1990s, may be hidden treasures. These bottles were likely part of gift packages or promotional items during that time. However, it is important to note that the contents of these small bottles might not always be intact, as perfume can deteriorate over time if not stored properly.

To ensure the authenticity and quality of the perfume inside, collectors should consider factors such as storage conditions and batch codes when acquiring vintage Opium bottles. Proper storage, such as keeping the bottles in a dark, cool place or even a refrigerator, can help preserve the fragrance and prevent deterioration. Additionally, checking batch codes and other markings on the bottles can provide valuable information about their production date and authenticity.

Overall, vintage Opium bottles represent a piece of perfumery history and continue to captivate collectors and fragrance enthusiasts alike. Their unique designs and the allure of the original scent formulation contribute to their enduring appeal in the vintage fragrance market.

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Opium's scent

Opium is a women's perfume created for the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac. It was introduced to the market in 1977 and is an Oriental-spicy fragrance. The scent caused a stir due to its controversial name, which led to accusations of the brand designer Yves Saint Laurent condoning drug use. However, the press coverage only increased sales, with Opium soon becoming a best-selling product. Opium's top notes are a mixture of fruits and spices, including mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, pepper, and bay leaf. The middle notes are predominantly floral, with jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, and orris root. The base note is a sweet woody blend, featuring sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, and castoreum, as well as amber, musk, patchouli, tolu balsam, and vetiver.

Over the years, Opium's formulation may have evolved, and vintage bottles are sought after by collectors. Some enthusiasts believe that the older formulations, particularly those from the late 1970s to the early 1990s, possess a more desirable scent than the modern versions. These vintage bottles are often distinguished by their metal bases and unique designs, such as the iconic leaf swirls ingrained in the glass.

The Black Opium variant, a top-rated YSL perfume, features intoxicating notes of rich coffee beans, sweet vanilla, and white flowers, creating a long-lasting and seductive fragrance. It captures the essence of an edgy and daring woman, combining the strong scent of coffee with the warmth of floral vanilla. The Black Opium fragrance is described as playing on the "radical tension between the dark bitterness of coffee bean, the femininity of white flowers, and the sensual appeal of vanilla."

Opium pour Homme, launched in 1995, is the male complement to the original Opium fragrance. Its main note is vanilla, complemented by black currant, galangal, star anise, ginger, and pepper. The base notes of this fragrance are cedar and Tolu balsam, similar to the original Opium. The flask for Opium pour Homme was designed by Jérôme Failliant-Dumas.

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Opium's advertising campaigns

Opium by Yves Saint Laurent has had several advertising campaigns over the years. The brand values of YSL include a retro touch, and the company uses well-known models and celebrities to link to the product and convey a friendly approach in its advertising.

One notable campaign for the original Opium perfume featured Linda Evangelista at the height of her supermodel fame in an Indiana Jones-style commercial. In the advert, Evangelista goes to an "exotic" market to choose a male sex slave.

Another Opium campaign, this time for Black Opium, featured a well-known model, Sophie Dahl, with flame-red hair, lying down in profile. The campaign included a TV advert and a print advert with a similar theme—dark and mysterious. The TV advert was shown on Channel 4, 4OD, VoD, and the ITV network. The print advert was a still from the video storyboard, with the model resting against a wall, making it more defined and straightforward.

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Opium flankers

Flankers are perfumes that are derived from other fragrances, usually with slight modifications. They are primarily used to resell popular fragrances, often with a slightly different scent, bottle design, or intensity level.

  • Black Opium Intense: This flanker has a pronounced herbal quality with absinthe and licorice notes, as well as a dry, roasted coffee bean accord. It is less sweet, drier, and more androgynous than the original.
  • Black Opium Le Parfum: This flanker is described as having more vanilla than some of the other flankers. It is also said to be suitable for daytime wear and has great longevity, lasting 8+ hours.
  • Black Opium Extreme: Extreme is described as having more coffee and spices than the original. It is less sweet, very cosy, and a little spicier. It is also said to have the best longevity among the flankers, with a great long-lasting dry-down.
  • Black Opium Illicit Green: This flanker contains fig and is described as fresh and interesting. It is harder to find than some of the other flankers.
  • Black Opium Nuit Blanche: This flanker is said to be more elegant and office-friendly than the original. However, it has been discontinued.
  • Black Opium Floral Shock: This flanker has been discontinued.
  • Black Opium Eau de Toilette (2018): This flanker is said to have more citrus than the original.

Frequently asked questions

Opium is one of the most counterfeited perfumes in history, with an estimate of ten fake bottles for every authentic one. To identify a genuine vintage Opium perfume, you can refer to the year of production, serial numbers, and batch codes. Additionally, the traditional Opium "splash" bottle, designed by Pierre Dinand, was inspired by the Japanese "inro," a small lacquered case worn under the kimono. Authentic vintage Opium bottles may feature distinctive leaf swirls ingrained in the glass.

Vintage Opium perfume, created by Yves Saint Laurent, is known for its unique Oriental-spicy fragrance with a blend of patchouli and woody base notes. It was first introduced to the market in 1977 in France and gained popularity due to its controversial name. The scent is described as soft, sexy, smooth, woody, spicy, and sweet, with a distinctive and long-lasting fragrance.

Over time, the formulation of perfumes may change, and this can result in variations in the scent. Some enthusiasts of vintage Opium believe that the modern formulation lacks the intensity and unique character of the original. Black Opium, which was released after the discontinuation of the original Opium due to reported allergic reactions, features different key notes, including adrenaline-rich coffee and sweet vanilla, creating a distinct scent from the original Opium.

When collecting vintage Opium perfume, it is essential to prioritize proper storage. Keep the perfume bottles in a dark and cool place, such as a dark bag in the fridge, to maintain their quality and longevity. Additionally, when purchasing vintage Opium, inspect the batch codes, metal bases, and other indicators of authenticity to ensure you are acquiring a genuine product.

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