Heidi Norton
Creating a perfume using perfumers' alcohol is a fun and creative process that allows you to express your personality through unique fragrances. When making a perfume, the base typically consists of perfumers' alcohol, which is ideal because it evaporates quickly and effectively carries the fragrance without altering the scent. It is important to use pure and undenatured ethanol specifically formulated for perfumery, as other types of alcohol may contain methanol, which can cause adverse skin reactions. To make your own perfume, you can add essential oils or fragrance oils to the perfumers' alcohol, allowing the mixture to sit and age, enhancing the depth and longevity of the scent.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose of adding alcohol | To dilute a fragrance concentrate |
| Type of alcohol | Perfumer's alcohol, cosmetic-grade Trade Specific Denatured Alcohol (TSDA) or ethanol |
| Notes on type of alcohol | Should be pure and undenatured ethanol, not denatured ethanol which is often mixed with methanol |
| Notes on methanol | Toxic and readily absorbed by the skin |
| Notes on vodka | Not suitable for perfumery as it's mostly water |
| Notes on water | Can be added (only a couple of %) to make the perfume less harsh on the skin but risks clouding the fragrance; if added, must be 'deionised' or 'distilled' |
| Ratio of alcohol to fragrance | 50-50 |
| Aging process | Allows oils to meld with alcohol, enhancing depth and longevity of fragrance |
| Filtering | Use a coffee filter or fine mesh strainer to filter out any sediment after aging |
| Storage | Store in a dark glass bottle to protect oils from light |
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What You'll Learn
Use perfumer's alcohol, not vodka or methanol
When making perfume, it's important to use the right type of alcohol. While you might be tempted to reach for a bottle of vodka or methanol, these are not suitable options. Vodka, for instance, is mostly water, which doesn't help with extraction. It's also not a high enough proof for perfumery; you need 95%+ alcohol, and vodka is usually only 40%.
Instead, it's recommended to use perfumer's alcohol, which is designed specifically for use in perfumes. This type of alcohol is typically ethanol-based and may be denatured to make it unfit for human consumption. Denaturing agents can include methanol, but this is added in controlled amounts to ensure the perfume is safe. Perfumer's alcohol is ideal for combining with essential oils and fragrance notes to produce aromatic perfumes. It acts as a carrier, helping to "carry" the scent and project it, and it also functions as a preservative, preventing microbial growth and extending the shelf life of perfumes.
You can purchase perfumer's alcohol from trusted manufacturers that specialise in perfume ingredients. Look for SD-40b or another cosmetic-grade denatured alcohol. If you can't find these, 190-proof Everclear is a suitable alternative. Just make sure to never use non-cosmetic or non-food-grade denatured alcohol, as it may contain harmful poisons or chemicals.
In summary, when cutting perfume with alcohol, it's important to use perfumer's alcohol rather than vodka or methanol. Vodka is too low in alcohol content and won't help with extraction, while methanol is toxic and can be dangerous if absorbed through the skin. Perfumer's alcohol, on the other hand, is designed for safe and effective use in perfumes, providing the ideal base for your fragrances.
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Use a 50:50 ratio of alcohol to fragrance
When creating your own perfume, you can dilute a fragrance with perfumer's alcohol. The standard mixture is 10-30% of essential oil or fragrance oil in total, with the rest being alcohol. This means that a 50:50 ratio of alcohol to fragrance falls within the standard range.
To create a 50:50 mixture, first prepare your fragrance. If you are using fragrance oils, you can start with a ratio of 3ml of fragrance to 30ml of perfumer's alcohol. This is a 10% fragrance usage rate. If you are using essential oils, you can follow the "30-50-20 rule": 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. Add your base notes to the perfumer's alcohol first, then finish with 10 drops of top notes to 30ml of perfumer's alcohol.
The type of alcohol you use is important. You should never use something labelled solely as 'denatured alcohol' because there are many denaturants, and you risk it containing poison and making your perfume toxic. Cosmetic grade Trade Specific Denatured Alcohol (TSDA) is made specifically for use in cosmetic products. The most widely used and recommended variant is SD-40b, a specific grade denatured with tert-butyl alcohol. Vodka is not suitable for perfumery as it is mostly water, and water does not help with extraction. Instead, use pure (191+) proof ethanol, either undenatured or SDA40B denatured.
Once you have mixed your fragrance and alcohol, let the perfume sit in a cool, dark place for at least 48 hours, up to a month for perfumes made with essential oils. This aging process allows the oils to meld with the alcohol, enhancing the depth and longevity of your fragrance. After this, filter out any sediment using a coffee filter or a fine mesh strainer, then funnel the liquid into your final storage bottle. Your custom perfume is now ready to wear!
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Add base notes to the perfumer's alcohol
Adding base notes to perfumers' alcohol is a crucial step in creating a well-balanced and enduring perfume. Base notes are the foundation of a fragrance, providing depth and ensuring the scent evolves beautifully over time. They are rich, heavy, and long-lasting, with a slower evaporation rate, allowing the perfume to linger on the skin for six hours or more.
When crafting a perfume, it is essential to select the right base notes to create the desired aroma. Common base notes include vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, moss, and woody notes such as sandalwood and cedarwood. These notes add an earthy, musky, or resinous quality to the fragrance, enhancing its complexity and improving its wear time.
The drop-by-drop method is a precise approach to blending base notes with perfumers' alcohol. This technique involves starting with a single drop of each chosen base note and gradually adding more drops until the desired harmony is achieved. This ensures that each note complements the others while maintaining the intended longevity of the perfume.
It is important to note that the choice of alcohol used as a base for the perfume is crucial. The recommended type of alcohol for perfumery is cosmetic-grade Trade Specific Denatured Alcohol (TSDA), specifically the SD-40b grade. This alcohol is denatured, meaning it is unfit for human consumption, and is widely used in the perfume industry. Alternatively, one can use perfumers' alcohol, which is a loose term for a blend of alcohol and additives used as a base for perfumes. However, it is crucial to ensure that the perfumers' alcohol is sourced from a trusted manufacturer that specifically caters to perfumery.
Additionally, it is worth mentioning that some online sources may suggest using Witch Hazel as an alcohol substitute for perfume-making. However, this information is incorrect, and Witch Hazel should be avoided entirely in perfumery. Instead, the focus should be on using the appropriate types of alcohol, such as ethanol or perfumers' alcohol, to create a safe and effective fragrance.
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Use 190 proof alcohol
When cutting perfume with alcohol, it is important to use only ethanol/grain alcohol to avoid toxins. 190-proof ethanol is a suitable option for this purpose. It is a type of denatured alcohol that is commonly used in perfumes and other cosmetic products.
- Prepare your fragrance: Make your fragrance to the desired percentage and concentration. You can use essential oils, absolutes, or other fragrance ingredients.
- Add the 190-proof alcohol: Once you have your fragrance ready, add the 190-proof alcohol. This type of alcohol is often referred to as "perfumer's alcohol" and can be purchased from specialty suppliers or even local liquor stores, depending on your location.
- Mix and heat: Place the mixture in a bain-marie. Heat some water to almost boiling in a glass in the microwave, then place your bottles or container into a plastic bag and submerge it in the hot water for about 15 minutes. This will help blend the fragrance and alcohol evenly.
- Rest and store: After heating, let the mixture rest at room temperature for a few hours or overnight. Then, you can store your diluted perfume in a suitable container, such as a spray bottle or decanter.
Using 190-proof alcohol is a safe option for perfume-making as it contains 95% ethyl alcohol and 5% water. This high concentration of alcohol ensures that your perfume will have a suitable consistency for spraying and application to the skin. Additionally, the quick evaporation of the alcohol helps carry the fragrance, enhancing its projection and sillage.
It is important to note that not all 190-proof alcohols are created equal. Some brands, like Everclear, are widely available and suitable for perfume-making, while other types of grain alcohol may be more challenging to source and might not be suitable for beginners. Always opt for food-grade or cosmetic-grade alcohol to ensure safety and quality.
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Let the perfume sit for 48 hours to a month
Allowing your perfume to sit for 48 hours to a month is a crucial step in the perfume-making process. This resting period serves multiple purposes, including allowing the fragrance to fully develop its scent and ensuring the perfume's longevity.
Firstly, letting the perfume rest gives the fragrance time to mature and develop. This is especially important if you have used natural ingredients, resins, or essential oils in your perfume, as these ingredients can take time to reach their full olfactory potential. During this resting period, the various scent notes can blend and mature, creating a more harmonious and well-rounded fragrance.
Secondly, the resting period helps to ensure the longevity of your perfume. By allowing the perfume to rest, you are giving the ingredients time to settle and stabilize, which can prevent premature deterioration. This is particularly important if your perfume contains carrier oils, as some oils can turn rancid if not properly rested.
The length of time you should let your perfume sit can vary depending on its ingredients and your personal preferences. Some people suggest that a couple of weeks is sufficient, while others recommend a month or more. Ultimately, the resting time will depend on your unique perfume formula and your desired results.
It is worth noting that the resting period is also influenced by the method of application. Alcohol-based perfumes, for instance, do not typically require a long resting period and can be used as soon as they are cooled or warmed to room temperature. Oil-based perfumes, on the other hand, often benefit from a longer resting period of several weeks to months.
Finally, it is important to store your perfume properly during the resting period. Keep it in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. This will help maintain the integrity of the fragrance and prevent premature deterioration.
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Frequently asked questions
You should use perfumer's alcohol, which is formulated specifically for making perfumes. It evaporates quickly and carries the fragrance without altering the scent profile. Make sure you use pure, undenatured ethanol, as denatured ethanol is usually mixed with methanol, which can cause adverse reactions when applied to the skin.
The amount of alcohol used depends on the strength of the fragrance desired. For a standard mixture, use about 10-30% of essential oil or fragrance oil to 30ml of perfumer's alcohol. If you are using fragrance oil, you can start with a ratio of 3ml of fragrance to 30ml of perfumer's alcohol.
To dilute a perfume that is too strong, buy perfumer's alcohol and mix it 50-50 with the fragrance in a small decanter. You can then adjust the percentage to your preference.
To reduce the scent of a perfume, you can spritz it from a distance, apply a bit less fragrance, or spray it on a tissue paper and leave it in a closed-off space, such as a closet or suitcase.
