Choosing Your First Cologne: A Beginner's Guide To Fragrances

Choosing your first cologne can be daunting, but it doesn't have to be. The most important thing to know is the scent pyramid: top, heart, and base notes. Top notes are what you smell immediately and dissipate fastest; the heart is the core of the scent and what you smell after the cologne has dried down; and the base notes are the core smell that stays on your skin the longest.

It's always nice to know what kind of scents you gravitate toward—woods, spices, freshness—to help cut through the options quickly. But even with that knowledge, the most important thing you need to do is put your nose to the bottle. Choose a scent that smells good to you. Remember, colognes aren't just about smelling good; they're also about how they make you feel.

Understand the basics of perfumery

Perfumery is a whole world that many people don't delve into, but it's worth getting to know the basics if you want to be able to buy your own scents in the future.

The first thing to know about is fragrance notes. These are the individual elements, or "ingredients", that make up a fragrance. Notes are layered in tiers, or "levels", which are determined by how they expose themselves to you from the fragrance. There are three types of notes:

• Top notes: These are the initial, lighter scents that you smell immediately after application. They last from 15 minutes to 2 hours. Examples include light floral, citrus, fruity, powdery, marine, aquatic, and spice notes such as cinnamon.
• Middle/heart notes: These provide the middle ground and balance to the cologne. They develop after the top note clears and can last 3-5 hours. Middle notes often include heavier floral scents like jasmine, as well as green scents like grass or stone, and spice notes.
• Base notes: These are the boldest notes and become more noticeable later in the day. They determine how long the fragrance lasts on your skin and tend to last from 5 to 10 hours. Typical base notes include sandalwood, moss, vetiver, vanilla, tar, leather, smoke, tobacco, and musk.

The performance of a fragrance is judged by its longevity (how long it lasts on your skin) and sillage (how strongly it lingers behind you).

It's also important to note that fragrances are seasonal. In winter and fall, go for heavier fragrances with warmer, spicier notes. In summer and spring, opt for fresh, clean, and light choices.

When it comes to buying a fragrance, it's a good idea to get familiar with fragrance families. Michael Edwards' Fragrance Wheel is a widely accepted tool that separates scents into large buckets like "Woody" or "Floral", and smaller categories like "Green", "Aquatic", or "Aromatic". This can help you find something that suits your taste and occasion.

Learn about fragrance families and their seasonality

When choosing your first cologne, it's important to understand fragrance families and their seasonality. While some people stick to one signature fragrance all year round, others like to change their scent with the seasons.

There are four main scent families: woody, floral, amber, and fresh. Each family has several subfamilies, and fragrances within the same family or subfamilies are likely to blend well together.

The woody family includes warm and opulent scents like sandalwood, patchouli, and cedar. Woody fragrances are ideal for autumn, evoking the smell of autumn leaves and bonfires.

The floral family is one of the most common, often taking on a feminine character. This family includes fresh cut flowers, rose, jasmine, and orange blossom. Light, floral perfumes are perfect for spring, reflecting the season's renewal and warmth.

The amber family (previously known as "oriental") includes herbs, spices, and dry powdery resin notes. Amber fragrances are sensual, warm, and exotic, making them suitable for winter. During the colder months, heavier formulations of perfumes are ideal as they are more concentrated and last longer.

The fresh family is characterised by zingy, aromatic compositions with underlying woody notes. Fresh fragrances are ideal for summer, providing a refreshing contrast to the hot weather. Look for fragrances with citrus notes like lemon, bergamot, and grapefruit, or exotic scents originating from the tropics.

In addition to the four main scent families, there are other fragrances typically associated with specific seasons. For example, gourmand fragrances with notes of vanilla, caramel, and honey are popular in winter, while aquatic notes are often chosen for summer.

Know the classics

Knowing the classics is a great way to find your first cologne. These are long-standing products that have been around for years and are almost universally acclaimed. Starting with the classics can help you understand your taste.

Some popular classic colognes include Giorgio Armani Eau Pour Homme, Dior Sauvage, Bleu de Chanel, Prada L'Homme, and Ralph Lauren Polo. Chanel's Bleu de Chanel is a low-key fragrance, ideal for those who think they don't like fragrances. It has top notes of lemon zest, bergamot, mint, artemisia, and lavender, with base notes of sandalwood, cedar, amberwood, and tonka bean.

Another classic is Dior Sauvage, a fresh and spicy fragrance with a woody dry-down. Its top notes include lavender, pepper, and pink pepper, with base notes of cedar, patchouli, and vetiver.

For something a little different, Prada's L'Homme is a great choice. It has top notes of black pepper, cardamom, and mandarin, with base notes of cedar and sandalwood.

If you're looking for a subtle fragrance, Ralph Lauren's Polo is a great option. It has top notes of basil, thyme, coriander, and green notes, with base notes of leather, oakmoss, and patchouli.

These classic colognes offer a great starting point for choosing your first fragrance. They showcase the different families of fragrances and can help you discover the scents you like best.

Weigh mass appeal against niche

When choosing a cologne, it's important to weigh mass appeal against niche fragrances. While a mass-market fragrance may be more affordable and widely liked, you run the risk of smelling like someone else in your office or social circle. Niche fragrances, on the other hand, tend to be more expensive and unique, but may not have universal appeal.

Mass-appeal fragrances are typically designed for a wide-reaching audience and are often created by well-known designer brands. These fragrances are usually mass-produced and made from cheaper materials to save costs and enable volume production. While they may not contain costly natural ingredients or be as unique as niche fragrances, mass-appeal scents have their pros. The perfumers behind these fragrances are often highly skilled and experienced, ensuring a certain level of quality. Additionally, these fragrances are likely to be safer choices, avoiding strong reactions and appealing to a broader range of people.

Niche fragrances, on the other hand, are created by industry artists and cater to a more selective audience. These fragrances are often made from more expensive and higher-quality ingredients, resulting in a more distinctive and bold scent. Niche fragrances are sought out by those who want to stand out and express their individuality through their choice of fragrance. However, this also means that not everyone will like these bold scents, and they usually come with a higher price tag.

When deciding between mass appeal and niche, consider your own preferences and the impression you want to make. If you want a safe and widely liked fragrance, a mass-market option may be best. But if you're willing to take a risk and want a scent that is truly yours, a niche fragrance could be the perfect choice. Keep in mind that fragrance is a personal choice, and what matters most is that you love the way it makes you feel and the memories it evokes.

Consider your motives

When choosing a cologne, it's important to consider your motives. Ask yourself: what is your end goal with a signature scent? What is your personality like, or what alter ego are you projecting? How will it impress itself upon your colleagues, your significant other, your best friends?

Your signature scent is an expression of yourself, so it's important to choose something that aligns with your personality and the image you want to project. If you're extroverted and active, for example, you might want something spicy and lively. If you're the quiet type, a deep woody fragrance might be a better fit.

It's also worth considering the different occasions you'll be wearing the cologne. A sophisticated cologne might be too much for a casual outing with friends, while a fresh and subtle cologne might not be suitable for a formal event.

Ultimately, the most important thing is to choose a fragrance that you love and that makes you feel confident.

Frequently asked questions