Creating Scents: Crafting Cologne, Step By Step

The process of making cologne is a complex blend of art and science. The word 'perfume' comes from the Latin 'per fumum', meaning 'through smoke', and humans have been using perfumes to mask or enhance their body odour since the beginning of recorded history. In ancient times, all fragrances came from the earth, with ancient civilisations infusing body lotions and water with aromatic flowers, burning incense made from spices, and extracting oils from plants. Today, the process of making cologne involves collecting ingredients, extracting oils, blending, ageing, and quality control.

Gathering ingredients: flowers, plants, resins, leaves, grasses, fruits, animal products, and synthetic chemicals

The first step in the perfume-making process is gathering the ingredients. These can include flowers, plants, resins, leaves, grasses, fruits, and animal products.

Flowers are often essential, as it is difficult to make perfume without floral essences. High-end luxury brands, such as Chanel, own their flower fields to ensure a steady supply of flowers for their perfumes.

Plants are the prime source of fragrance in most perfumes, with their oils being extracted and blended. However, not all plants produce oils naturally, so the scents of some, such as the lily-of-the-valley, are emulated in labs via synthetic means.

Fruits are also used in perfumes, with citrus fruits being particularly popular due to the large amount of oil contained in their peels and the ease of growing and harvesting them.

Resins, leaves, grasses, and gums are other natural ingredients used in perfumes.

Animal products used in perfumes include musk from male deer, ambergris from sperm whales, and castor from beavers. These substances are often used as fixatives, enabling the fragrance to evaporate slowly and emit odours for longer.

Finally, synthetic chemicals are used to recreate natural scents that are difficult to obtain or do not exist in nature. They are also used to create original fragrances. The use of synthetic chemicals has become increasingly common due to their lower cost and ease of production compared to natural sources.

Extracting oils: steam distillation, solvent extraction, enfleurage, maceration, and expression

Extracting oils is a complex process that can be done in several ways. Here is a detailed description of each method:

Steam Distillation

This is the most common technique for extracting essential oils from plants. The process involves placing the plant material in a still and passing steam through it. The steam vaporises the plant's volatile compounds, which are then condensed and collected. The oil and water are separated, with the oil floating on top due to the immiscibility of the two liquids. Steam distillation is preferred for its environmental friendliness, safety, and ease of scaling. However, it is a slow process that requires long extraction times.

Solvent Extraction

This method uses solvents like hexane, benzene, or petroleum ether to extract essential oils. Flowers or plant parts are placed in large rotating tanks and covered with the solvent, causing them to dissolve and leave behind a waxy substance containing the oil. This substance is then mixed with ethyl alcohol, and the oil dissolves in the alcohol. The alcohol is then evaporated, leaving a highly concentrated perfume oil. Solvent extraction is suitable for plant materials that yield low amounts of oil or are delicate aromatics.

Enfleurage

Enfleurage is a costly and labour-intensive process that involves spreading flowers or plant material on grease-coated glass sheets, which are then placed in tiers between wooden frames. The glass sheets are covered with purified, odourless vegetable or animal fat. The flowers are pressed into the greasy mixture and left for up to several weeks, with fresh flowers added periodically until the fat is saturated with the fragrance. The fat, now containing the fragrant oil, is then washed with alcohol to separate the two. Enfleurage was used by ancient civilisations and later by French perfumers in the 18th century.

Maceration

Maceration is similar to enfleurage but uses warmed fats to absorb the fragrance. The fats are then dissolved in alcohol to obtain the essential oils. Macerated oils are also known as infused oils and are created when carrier oils are used as solvents to extract therapeutic properties from plant material. Maceration captures more of the plant's essence than distillation, including larger plant molecules.

Expression

Also known as Cold-Pressed Extraction or Scarification, expression is the oldest and simplest method of oil extraction. It is commonly used for extracting citrus oils by mechanically or manually pressing the plant until all the oils are extracted. The whole fruit is pierced to rupture the essential oil sacs, and the oil and pigments are collected. The fruit is then pressed to separate the oil from the juice and solids. Expression is the most economically feasible method and is used for citrus fruits due to their high oil content and low harvesting costs.

Blending: oils are mixed with alcohol and water, with the ratio determining the type of fragrance

Blending is a critical step in the process of creating a cologne or perfume. Once the essential oils have been extracted, they are carefully blended according to a precise formula. This formula is meticulously crafted by a master perfumer, often referred to as a "nose", and can take several years to perfect. The blending process involves mixing the oils with alcohol and a small amount of water. The ratio of alcohol to scent determines the type of fragrance that is produced.

For a cologne, the blend typically contains approximately 10% essential oils, with the rest being alcohol and a small amount of water. Eau de toilette has a similar composition, with up to 15% essential oils. Perfumes, on the other hand, have a stronger scent and contain a higher concentration of oils, typically up to 40% or even more. The higher the concentration of oils, the more expensive the fragrance tends to be.

The blending process requires a precise understanding of the different notes and how they interact with each other. Top notes provide a tangy or citrusy scent, while central or heart notes, often from aromatic flowers like rose or jasmine, give the fragrance body. Base notes, usually derived from woody fragrances, provide an enduring base for the perfume.

After blending, the cologne or perfume is ready for the ageing process, which allows the alcohol and oils to fully bond and blend. This process can take several months to a year and results in a more powerful and well-rounded scent.

Aging: stored in cool, dark conditions for months or a year, allowing oils to bond with alcohol

Once the cologne has been created and bottled, it is ready to be stored and aged. This is a crucial step in the process of making cologne, as it allows the final product to interact with natural components that require time to settle and blend properly. This process is known as scent maceration.

To ensure the cologne ages effectively, it should be stored in a cool, dark place, ideally in a refrigerator. Cologne is sensitive to oxygen, heat and light, so keeping it in a dark, cool location will slow down the oxidation process and prevent the alcohol in the cologne from spoiling and smelling like vinegar. The ideal temperature to store cologne is below 15 degrees Celsius or 59 degrees Fahrenheit.

The length of time that cologne should be aged depends on the specific product and its ingredients. Generally, an unopened bottle of cologne can last for up to five years if stored correctly, while an open bottle can last for around two years. However, these are just estimates, and the actual longevity of the cologne will depend on various factors such as the quality of the ingredients used, storage conditions and usage habits.

During the ageing process, it is important to avoid exposing the cologne to excessive heat or sunlight, as this can cause the scent to deteriorate. It is also recommended to keep the bottle tightly sealed when not in use and to avoid exposing it to air for long periods. Additionally, shaking the bottle should be avoided, as this can introduce air into the cologne and cause it to degrade faster.

By following these storage and ageing techniques, you can ensure that your cologne maintains its potency and lasts for as long as possible.

Testing and adjusting: a nose will judge and adjust the fragrance as needed

Once the perfume has been aged, it is ready for testing and adjusting. An expert in the industry, known as a "nose", will judge the fragrance. If any adjustments are required, they will be carried out at this stage.

Creating a perfume is an intricate process that requires extensive testing and blending of hundreds of ingredients. It can take several years to develop a unique recipe, and a single perfume can contain up to 800 individual ingredients, some natural and some synthetic. The "nose" is responsible for ensuring that the correct scent has been achieved and that it meets the desired standard.

The "nose" will test the perfume to ensure that the scent is stronger than it was before the ageing process. They may also test to make sure that the perfume contains three distinct notes: a top note, a central or heart note, and a base note. The top note provides a tangy or citrus-like smell, the central note provides body and is often an aromatic flower like rose or jasmine, and the base note is a woody fragrance that provides an enduring scent.

If the perfume does not meet these standards, the "nose" will make adjustments. This may involve additional blending or the addition of other ingredients. For example, antioxidants like Butylated hydroxytoluene are often added to increase the lifetime of the perfume.

The testing and adjusting process is a critical step in the creation of a perfume. It ensures that the final product meets the desired standards and that the scent is well-balanced and appealing. It is a complex and intricate process that requires a high level of expertise and a refined sense of smell.

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