Creating Unique Homemade Colognes: A Simple Guide

Creating a homemade cologne is a fun and rewarding process that allows you to develop a unique and personalised scent. By blending essential oils with other ingredients, you can craft a fragrance that suits your taste and personality. Whether you prefer woody and herbal or floral and powdery scents, the process of making cologne involves combining base, middle, and top notes to create a well-rounded and long-lasting aroma. In this guide, we will explore the steps and ingredients needed to make your own signature cologne at home.

Finding your notes

The first step in creating your cologne is to find your notes. Essential oils have different "notes", which are categorised as "Top", "Middle" or "Base". Using at least one oil from each note will ensure that your fragrance is balanced and long-lasting. It will also prevent an overpowering aroma.

Top notes

The first scent you will smell in a blend, but it typically disappears quickly (within 1-2 hours). Examples include basil, bergamot, eucalyptus, grapefruit and peppermint.

Middle notes

The second aroma in a blend is also referred to as the "bouquet". It lasts a little longer than the top note (2-4 hours). Examples include black pepper, cypress, juniper berry, lavender, pine and rosemary.

Base notes

The last note you will notice, but it will last the longest (some can even linger for days). This gives your blend staying power throughout the day. Examples include cedarwood, copaiba balsam, frankincense, myrrh, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla and vetiver.

You can also categorise essential oils by their type of aroma. Here are some examples:

Citrus

• Bergamot
• Grapefruit
• Lemon
• Lime
• Mandarin
• Petitgrain
• Sweet orange
• Tangerine

Herbaceous

• Basil
• Cajeput
• Clary sage
• Coriander
• Eucalyptus
• Lavender
• Lemongrass
• Oregano
• Peppermint
• Rosemary
• Tea tree
• Thyme

Spicey

• Allspice
• Anise
• Black pepper
• Cinnamon leaf
• Clove bud
• Ginger

Woodsy

• Cedarwood
• Cypress
• Fir needle
• Juniper berry
• Pine

Finding your direction

When creating your own cologne, it's important to have a clear direction in terms of the type of aroma you want to achieve. This will help guide your selection of essential oils and ensure your blend is complex and layered. Here are some tips to help you find your direction when crafting a signature scent:

Understanding Fragrance Notes

Before you begin blending, it's crucial to understand the different fragrance notes that essential oils can provide. These notes can be categorised as "Top," "Middle," or "Base," and incorporating at least one oil from each category can add depth and balance to your cologne. Top notes are the first scents you smell in a blend but tend to disappear within 1-2 hours. Examples of essential oils with top notes include basil, bergamot, eucalyptus, grapefruit, and peppermint. Middle notes, also known as the "bouquet," emerge after the top notes and last a little longer (around 2-4 hours). Black pepper, cypress, juniper berry, lavender, pine, and rosemary are some options for middle notes. Base notes are the scents that linger for the longest duration, sometimes even for days. Cedarwood, frankincense, myrrh, sandalwood, vanilla, and vetiver are examples of base notes.

Choosing Your Aroma Type

Once you understand the different fragrance notes, you can start exploring the various aroma types you can create. Here are some examples of essential oils to consider for different aroma categories:

• Citrus: Bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, lime, mandarin, sweet orange, tangerine
• Herbaceous: Basil, cajeput, clary sage, coriander, eucalyptus, lavender, rosemary, thyme
• Spice: Allspice, anise, black pepper, cinnamon leaf, clove bud, ginger
• Woodsy: Cedarwood, cypress, fir needle, juniper berry, pine

You can mix and match essential oils from different categories to create a textured scent that appeals to your senses. It's recommended to place a few drops of each desired oil in a small bowl, blend them, and then use your hands to waft the aroma, assessing how well the aromas and notes blend together.

Experimenting with Essential Oils

Don't be afraid to experiment with different essential oils and combinations. Fragrance blending is an art form, and it may take some time to perfect your signature scent. Be creative and remember that it's okay if your first attempts are not perfect. You can always adjust the ratios and types of essential oils used until you find a blend that suits your taste.

Seeking Inspiration

If you're unsure where to start, you can seek inspiration from existing colognes or perfumes that you admire. Think about the scents that appeal to you and try to identify the key notes and aroma categories they fall into. This can give you a starting point for creating your own unique blend.

Personalisation

Remember that creating your own cologne is a personal journey. What appeals to one person may not be as appealing to another. The beauty of making your own cologne is that you can tailor it to your own preferences and create a scent that truly represents you.

Creating your signature scent

Now that you have an understanding of the fragrance scale and the essential oils you want to use, it's time to get blending!

Selecting your essential oils

Different essential oils have different "notes", and are categorised as "Top", "Middle" or "Base" notes. Using at least one oil from each note helps to ensure that the fragrance is balanced and will last longer. It also helps to reduce the likelihood of an overpowering aroma.

Top notes are the first scent that you smell in a blend, but they typically disappear quickly (within 1-2 hours). Examples include basil, bergamot, eucalyptus, grapefruit and peppermint. Middle notes, or "bouquets", last a little longer (2-4 hours). Examples include black pepper, cypress, juniper berry, lavender, pine and rosemary. Base notes are the last scent you will notice, but they will last the longest (some can even linger for days)! This is what gives your blend staying power throughout the day. Examples include cedarwood, copaiba balsam, frankincense, myrrh, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla and vetiver.

It's important to select essential oils that complement each other and create a complex, layered aroma. You can mix and match oils from different categories to make a more textured scent. A good way to test this is to place a few drops of each of your desired oils in a small bowl and blend them, using your hands to waft the aroma and see how you like it.

Blending your oils

Once you've selected your essential oils, it's time to start blending!

• Add each essential oil drop by drop to a small bowl, combining them with alcohol.
• Pour the mixture into a glass bottle and seal the bottle tightly.
• Shake the bottle well, and continue to shake it 1-2 times per day over the next 72 hours, to ensure that the oils have completely combined.
• Store the bottle in a cool, dark place to preserve the fragrance.

Ratios

The best way to guarantee a scent you'll love is to follow the basic pyramid accord, which is 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, you may want to experiment with different ratios to create a unique fragrance. For example, one suggested ratio is 20% base, 50% middle, and 30% top notes.

Other ingredients

In addition to essential oils, there are a few other ingredients you will need to create your cologne:

• Alcohol: This can be perfumer's alcohol, pure grain alcohol, Everclear, vodka or witch hazel.
• Water: Distilled water or orange flower water is best.
• Glycerin: This helps to add longevity to your formula and makes the cologne stick to your skin.

Maturing and bottling your cologne

Once you've blended your oils and added the other ingredients, your cologne will need time to mature. Leave it in a cool, dark place for at least a week, and up to three weeks, so that the perfume can mature.

After this period, you may want to filter the cologne through a coffee filter to remove any sediment. Then, pour the cologne into a glass perfume bottle using a funnel, and it's ready to use!

Safety considerations

It's important to keep in mind the safety considerations when using essential oils. Certain essential oils, particularly citrus oils, can cause the skin to be more sensitive to sunlight, so it's important to use these oils with caution.

Understanding fragrance scales

Top notes are the first scents you smell when trying a cologne. They are also known as head notes and are usually the most volatile, lasting only 1-2 hours. Examples of essential oils with top notes include basil, bergamot, eucalyptus, grapefruit, and peppermint. Middle notes, also referred to as heart notes, emerge once the top notes fade. These notes form the heart of the fragrance and last longer, around 2-4 hours. Examples of middle note essential oils include black pepper, cypress, juniper berry, lavender, and rosemary.

Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance and provide longevity, sometimes lingering for days. This is the note that will be remembered the most. Examples of base note essential oils include cedarwood, frankincense, myrrh, sandalwood, and vanilla.

When creating a cologne, it is important to consider the ratios of these notes. A typical fragrance might use a ratio of 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, you can experiment with these ratios to create a unique scent. For example, a ratio of 20% base, 50% middle, and 30% top notes might be used for a more complex and intense fragrance.

In addition to understanding the fragrance scale, it is also important to know the different fragrance types, such as eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne, which vary in the concentration of perfume oils and alcohol. This impacts the strength and longevity of the fragrance. For example, eau de parfum typically contains 15-20% perfume oil and lasts around 4-5 hours, while eau de cologne contains only 2-5% perfume oil and lasts for about 2 hours.

Choosing your essential oils

The essential oils you choose will make or break your cologne. It's important to select the right oils to create a scent that's appealing and long-lasting. Here are some tips to help you choose the best essential oils for your homemade cologne:

Perfume Notes

A well-structured cologne should have top, middle, and base notes. This will give your cologne depth and longevity. A single strong-smelling essential oil may be appealing, but it will not have the same staying power as a blend with different notes. Top notes are the first scent you smell, but they disappear quickly (within 1-2 hours). Middle notes, or the "bouquet", come through next and last a little longer (2-4 hours). Base notes are the last to be noticed, but they will linger the longest (sometimes for days)!

Examples of top notes include basil, bergamot, eucalyptus, grapefruit, and peppermint. Middle notes include black pepper, cypress, juniper berry, lavender, pine, and rosemary. Base notes include cedarwood, copaiba balsam, frankincense, myrrh, sandalwood, vanilla, and vetiver.

Aroma Categories

To create a balanced and appealing cologne, it's important to layer different types of aromas. You can mix and match oils from different categories to create a textured scent. Here are some common aroma categories and essential oils that fall into them:

• Citrus aromas: bergamot, orange, lime, lemongrass
• Herbal aromas: fennel, spearmint, camphor, clary sage
• Resin aromas: frankincense, balsam fir needle, myrrh
• Spice aromas: clove, black pepper, nutmeg, ginger, cardamom
• Woodland aromas: cedarwood, juniper, eucalyptus, cypress, pine
• Floral aromas: Roman chamomile, neroli
• Exotic aromas: ylang-ylang, sandalwood, vetiver

Personal Preference

At the end of the day, choosing essential oils for your cologne comes down to personal preference. Set up a tray of essential oils and a jar of coffee beans to cleanse your palate between scents. This will help you find the perfect balance of notes for your unique cologne.

Frequently asked questions