Seamus Hammond
Jasmine is one of the most widely used flowers in the perfume industry. Its sweet, elegant, and captivating scent makes it a favourite ingredient for many perfumers. Jasmine is native to Asia and was first cultivated in Persia around 2,000 years ago. The jasmine flower was highly valued in India and China, where it was used for perfumery, medicine, and decoration. In the Middle Ages, jasmine arrived in Europe via trade routes and was introduced into royal gardens and parks. Today, jasmine is grown and used in perfumery worldwide, with major producers including France, Italy, and Morocco. The oil extracted from jasmine flowers, called jasmine absolute, is highly prized in perfumery for its intense and long-lasting floral scent.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Jasmine species used in perfumery | Jasminum grandiflorum, Jasminum sambac, Jasminum officinale, Jasminum officinale L. var. grandiflorum, Jasminum officinalis |
| Jasmine's close relatives | Lilacs, osmanthus, the olive tree, the ash tree |
| Jasmine's origin | Persia (ancient Iran) |
| Jasmine's history | Used in Ancient Egypt, found in India since 300 BCE, introduced to China during the Han Dynasty, used by upper-class in the 7th century during the Tang Dynasty, introduced to France in the 17th century |
| Jasmine's scent | Sweet, elegant, floral, soft, fruity, musky, green, medicinal |
| Jasmine's properties | Aphrodisiac, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antiviral, anti-aging, moisturising |
| Jasmine's use in perfumery | Hand-picked early in the morning, processed into essential oil or perfume, extracted through enfleurage or solvent methods |
| Jasmine's demand | One of the most expensive natural oils, one of the priciest ingredients in perfumery |
| Jasmine's production | Grown in India, France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain, China, Egypt, Italy, Philippines, Indonesia, Tunisia |
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What You'll Learn
Jasmine species used in perfumery
Jasmine is a genus of evergreen shrubs from the olive family, comprising about 200 species. The two most commonly used species in perfumery are Jasminum grandiflorum and jasmine sambac. Chanel has its own fields of Jasminum grandiflorum in Grasse, France, where the flower grows particularly well. It is also known as 'big-flowered jasmine' or 'Grasse jasmine'. It is characterised by five long petals and is cultivated in India, Egypt, Morocco, Italy, Calabria, and France.
Jasmine sambac, on the other hand, is native to eastern India, southern Himalayas, and China. It is a bushy evergreen shrub, pruned each year by about 30 cm. Its name is derived from the Sanskrit word 'campaka', which means heady perfume. It is more of an orange blossom, with honeyed, fruity, and sunny notes. It is commonly used to perfume green tea.
Another variety of white jasmine, called royal jasmine (Jasminum officinale L. var. grandiflorum), is also widely cultivated for perfumery. It is also known as Spanish jasmine, Catalan jasmine, or jasmine odorant, and can be found in France, China, India, Egypt, and other countries.
The jasmine flower is typically harvested early in the morning to prevent its fragile white petals from burning in the sun. It is a tiring job as the shrubs are low, requiring workers to bend their backs all day. Jasmine is one of the priciest ingredients in perfumery, with one kilogram of jasmine absolute costing around 4000€ or $15,000, depending on the country of production.
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Jasmine's history and cultural significance
Jasmine is native to the tropical and subtropical regions of Eurasia, Africa, Australasia within Oceania, and the centre of its diversity is in South Asia and Southeast Asia. It is a member of the olive family and has around 200 species. The botanical name for jasmine is Jasminum, derived from the Persian word 'yāsamin', which means "a gift from God". The Persian name is also the origin of the genus name, Jasminum.
Jasmine has been cultivated for its fragrance for centuries. In the past, jasmine's scent was extracted through a process called enfleurage, where the flowers were pressed into layers of fat, and the scent gradually migrated to the fat from which it was extracted. Nowadays, solvent extraction is a more common method, although it is far less romantic. It takes thousands of hand-picked blooms to produce just one millilitre of the absolute oil, making it one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery.
Jasmine has been recognised for its healing powers in Ancient Persia, Ancient Greece, and Egypt. It was used to perfume bathwater and statues of gods in Egypt, and in China, it was used to scent black tea, a speciality reserved for emperors. Jasmine was also cultivated in India during the Vedic era, and its cultivation developed around the city of Madurai from the 5th century BC.
In Western culture, jasmine was cultivated in Andalusia as early as the 12th century, but it wasn't until the 16th century that it gained prominence. In 1548, it was reported to be intensively cultivated in London's gardens. In the 17th century, the master glove makers of Grasse used jasmine to perfume their gloves, transforming the city of tanners into the world capital of perfume.
Today, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry in various countries, including India, France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain, and Morocco. Jasmine is also used in rituals like marriages, religious ceremonies, and festivals. It is a symbol of motherhood in Thailand and was chosen as a symbol of the Tunisian Revolution. In Indonesia, jasmine is the national flower and is used in wedding ceremonies, especially on the island of Java.
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$16.19 $19.99
Harvesting and production methods
Jasmine is a highly sought-after ingredient in the fragrance industry, with its sweetness, elegance, and captivating scent making it a favourite for many perfumers. The jasmine flower is typically harvested early in the morning, from around 7 am to 1 pm, to prevent its fragile white petals from wilting in the heat of the sun. The flowers are then processed into essential oils or perfumes. The jasmine sambac variety, for instance, is harvested from May to June, while jasmine grandiflorum flowers later and is harvested from August to December.
The jasmine flower is native to Asia and was first cultivated in Persia (Iran) around 2,000 years ago. It has been used for centuries in India and China, where it holds cultural and religious significance. Jasmine flowers are also used in traditional medicine and for decorative purposes. In the Middle Ages, jasmine made its way to Europe via trade routes and was introduced to royal gardens and parks. Today, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry in various regions, including India, France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain, and Egypt.
The process of extracting jasmine's scent has evolved over time. While the traditional method of enfleurage involved pressing flowers into layers of fat to absorb their fragrance, modern techniques employ volatile solvents such as hexane or petroleum ether. This extraction process yields jasmine absolute, an oily liquid with a unique character that can be medicinal, sweet, musky, or green, depending on the region where the jasmine is grown.
The production of jasmine perfume is a labour-intensive process. It takes approximately 8,000 hand-picked blooms to produce just one millilitre of jasmine absolute. This translates to about one million flowers needed to produce one kilogram of the absolute. Due to the significant volume of flowers required and the intricate extraction process, jasmine is one of the most expensive natural oils in the world.
In the fragrance industry, jasmine absolute is often blended with other essential oils to create unique perfumes. Perfumers use their expertise to combine different fragrance notes harmoniously, resulting in well-rounded scents. Jasmine perfumes are commonly paired with floral notes but can also be mixed with fruity or spicy accents. The versatility of jasmine makes it a key ingredient in perfumery, contributing to its widespread use and popularity.
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Extraction techniques
Jasmine is one of the most widely used flowers in the perfume industry. Its scent is described as sweet, elegant, and captivating, with a rich and intense fragrance. The jasmine flower is native to Asia and was first cultivated in Persia (Iran) around 2,000 years ago. It then made its way to India and China, where it was highly valued for perfumery, medicine, and decoration. Today, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry in various countries, including India, France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain, and Egypt.
The extraction of jasmine's scent for perfume has evolved over time. While traditional methods like enfleurage involved pressing flowers into fats like palm oil or lard, modern techniques typically employ volatile solvents such as hexane or petroleum ether. This process extracts the fragrant molecules from the flowers, creating an oily liquid known as the 'absolute'.
The extraction technique used significantly impacts the character of the resulting jasmine absolute. For example, absolutes produced in France, Italy, Egypt, and Morocco may differ in their olfactory characteristics due to variations in the extraction process or the species of jasmine used.
The process of extracting jasmine perfume oil is labour-intensive and costly. It requires approximately 8,000 hand-picked blooms to yield just one millilitre of the absolute. The flowers are typically harvested early in the morning when they are most fragrant, and the delicate process must be completed quickly to prevent the flowers from fading.
While natural jasmine perfume oil is highly prized, synthetic production methods have also been developed to meet the demand for this sought-after fragrance. However, the complexity of jasmine's scent, comprising 259 known components, makes it a challenging endeavour. One of the critical molecules in jasmine's aroma is hedione, which has been isolated and used in perfumery since the 1960s.
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Blending and fragrance notes
Jasmine is one of the most widely used flowers in the perfume industry. Its sweetness, elegance, and captivating scent make it a favourite ingredient for many perfumers. Its magical essence evokes feelings of romance, love, and passion. The jasmine flower is also known for its aphrodisiac properties, boosting libido and improving one's sex life.
The two most important species of jasmine in perfumery are Jasminum grandiflorum and Jasminum sambac. Chanel has its own fields of Jasminum grandiflorum in Grasse, France, the world capital of perfumery. Grasse jasmine is considered more precious than other jasmines. The other precious member of the jasmine family is Sambac Jasmine, sometimes known as Tuscan jasmine or Arabian jasmine. Jasminum sambac is widely grown in Southeast Asia for perfumery and other purposes.
The jasmine flower is typically harvested very early in the morning (from 7 am until 1 pm) to prevent its fragile white petals from burning in the sun. The flowers are then processed into essential oil or perfume. The small white jasmine flowers are usually hand-picked before dawn and processed quickly because they are fragile and fade very quickly. Harvesting generally takes place from June to December on plants between 3 and 10 years old.
The scent of jasmine is extracted through a process called enfleurage, where the flowers are pressed into layers of fat, and the scent gradually migrates to the fat, from which it can be extracted. Nowadays, a less romantic solvent process is usually used, where volatile solvents like hexane or petroleum ether are employed. Jasmine absolute, the oily liquid created through macerating the jasmine flowers, has its own distinct character, ranging from medicinal and sweet to musky and green.
Perfumers blend different fragrance notes to create a harmonious and balanced fragrance. Jasmine perfumes are often combined with other floral notes, but they can also be mixed with fruity or spicy notes. The discovery of hedione, a molecule isolated from jasmine, revolutionized the fragrance industry. Hedione brings fluidity to floral notes, allowing them to breathe and open up. It has a very sweet and airy scent and is now one of the most widely used materials in perfumery.
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Frequently asked questions
Jasmine absolute is the oil extracted from jasmine flowers. It is highly prized in perfumery for its intense and long-lasting floral scent.
It takes around 8,000 hand-picked blooms to produce one millilitre of jasmine absolute.
Jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry in India, France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain, Italy, China, Egypt, and other countries.
Jasminum grandiflorum and jasmine sambac are the two most commonly used types of jasmine in perfumery.
The predominant technique today is extraction with volatile solvents, particularly hexane or petroleum ether. Historically, enfleurage was the main extraction technique, where flowers were pressed into layers of fat and the scent gradually migrated to the fat, from which it could be extracted.
