The Art Of Cologne: Understanding Scents And Notes

Colognes are typically light fragrances with a 2% to 5% concentration of perfume oils. They are often associated with men and described as having earthy, woody, and musky notes. While the scent of cologne varies from person to person due to individual body chemistry, it is generally characterised by its sharpness and muskiness, with common base notes including leather, tobacco, and various types of wood such as oak, oud, cedar, and sandalwood.

Cologne vs Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette

The scent of cologne is typically characterised by earthy notes such as pine and musk, with cedar, sandalwood, and leather also being common. These fragrances are often marketed towards men, whereas perfumes marketed towards women tend to feature fruit, flower, and vanilla notes. However, anyone can wear any fragrance they like!

The main difference between cologne, eau de parfum, and eau de toilette is the concentration of the fragrance, which affects the longevity and price of the product.

Eau de parfum has the highest concentration of fragrance, typically containing between 15-20% of perfume oil, although some sources state this can be as low as 10% or as high as 25%. It is the longest-lasting option, with a rich and intense scent that can endure for up to 8 hours. Due to the high concentration of raw materials, it is also the most expensive option.

Eau de toilette typically contains around 5-15% of perfume oil, with some sources stating this can be as low as 2% or as high as 10%. It offers a quick burst of beautiful smells, making a great first impression, and generally lasts between 2 and 7 hours. It is cheaper than eau de parfum but more expensive than cologne.

Cologne is a much lighter option, with only around 2-5% of perfume oil. It often comes in sporty scents with citrusy top notes and no base notes. It is best used post-workout or on casual weekends, and typically lasts for 2-3 hours. It is the cheapest option of the three.

Cologne's scent longevity

Colognes are typically light fragrances with a perfume oil concentration of 2% to 4%. They are often available in sporty scents with citrusy top notes and no base notes. Due to their lower concentration of perfume oil, colognes have a shorter longevity compared to other fragrance types like eau de parfum or eau de toilette.

On average, colognes last for around 2 to 3 hours before needing to be reapplied. However, their longevity can be affected by various factors, including:

• The amount applied: A full spray of cologne will last longer than a dab. Applying more cologne can extend its longevity, but it's important not to overuse it.
• Skin type: Oily skin can carry fragrances longer as the oils in the skin mingle with the perfume. Moisturizing the skin before applying cologne can also help it last longer.
• Evaporation rate: Different scent molecules in a fragrance have varying evaporation rates. For example, citrus notes tend to fade quickly, while musk can linger for hours.
• Storage: Storing cologne in a cool, dry place, away from direct light, can help prolong its freshness. Transferring it to another bottle or shaking the bottle can introduce air and start breaking down the scent.
• Application method: Sprayed colognes tend to smell stronger initially but don't last as long as rolled-on perfume oils. Applying cologne directly to the skin, rather than using the "mist and walk" method, can also make it last longer.
• Temperature and humidity: Higher temperatures and humidity can stimulate the evaporation of cologne, causing it to fade faster.
• Application area: Applying cologne to areas that are frequently touched or rubbed against clothing can shorten its longevity.

Cologne's top, middle and base notes

The scent of cologne, like perfume, is made up of a blend of various fragrance notes. These are the individual scent layers that, when combined, form a unified, pleasing fragrance. There are three main types of fragrance notes: top notes, heart or middle notes, and base notes. Each note has a specific role in the fragrance's development and longevity, and they all evaporate at their own pace.

Top notes are the first impression of a fragrance. They are the scents you detect immediately after applying the cologne. These notes are usually light, fresh, citrusy, or herbal, and they evaporate quickly, usually within 5 to 15 minutes. Common top notes include lemon, bergamot, mint, grapefruit, basil, anise, and other citrus and light floral scents.

Heart notes, or middle notes, are the heart of the fragrance. They appear as the top notes start to fade and remain evident for the full life of the cologne. These notes make up around 40-80% of the total scent and last longer than top notes. Heart notes include full-bodied, aromatic floral oils like jasmine, rose, geranium, neroli, ylang-ylang, cinnamon, pepper, pine, lemongrass, black pepper, cardamom, and other herbal and floral scents.

Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance. They kick in about 30 minutes after application and work together with the middle notes to create the scent's foundation. Base notes are rich, heavy, and long-lasting, lingering on the skin for hours or even days. Popular base notes include vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, moss, and woody notes like sandalwood, cedarwood, and vetiver.

Masculine scents

Leather is a common note in men’s fragrances and is often described as smelling like oak or other varieties of wood. It has an earthy scent and can sometimes have subtle burnt notes or hints of tobacco. It blends well with herbal notes, as well as woody and floral scents.

Tobacco is derived from fresh tobacco leaves and has a sweet fragrance that pairs well with warm scents like vanilla and spice. It can also have slightly floral base notes, which makes this fragrance easily paired with just about any scent for men.

Wood notes in fragrances smell warm and earthy, especially oak, oud, and cedar. Some woods, like sandalwood, can smell crisp, clean, and bright. The warmer wood notes pair well with vanilla or spice, while the brighter wood scents are elevated by citrus, fruity, and floral notes.

Musk is a very woody fragrance, often used as a base note in various men’s products. It is earthy and unique, and is beautifully complimented by vanilla and citrus notes.

Other popular base notes in masculine fragrances include allspice, cedar, rosemary, oakmoss, sandalwood, rum spice, lavender, black pepper, vetiver, patchouli, ginger, eucalyptus, cinnamon, cumin, sage, bergamot, lemon, amber, and costus.

Feminine scents

Feminine fragrances are often associated with floral, fruity, and sweet scents, while masculine scents tend to be labelled as muskier and spicier. However, the perception of a scent as feminine or masculine is largely influenced by gender-based marketing and cultural conventions.

The preference for floral fragrances among women can be traced back to 19th-century Europe, when women's lives revolved around the home and activities like arranging flowers and cooking. The invention of synthetic fragrance compounds during this period also made lighter and more delicate fragrances accessible to the middle class, who favoured woody, earthy-based fragrances to represent qualities associated with masculinity.

Recent neuroscience research suggests that scent preferences are influenced by experiences during childhood and memories associated with maternal figures, creating neural pathways that link certain fragrances with femininity or masculinity. For example, women often have more acidic skin, which interacts with fragrances to create unique feminine scents.

Some popular feminine fragrances include:

• Blue Orchid and Iced Peach: a fruity and floral blend with notes of peach, sparkling champagne, blue orchid, lily, jasmine, vanilla, caramelized sugar, and musk.
• Passion Flower Cassis: a spicy and floral fragrance with bergamot, citron, cassis, peony, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, lilac, amber, cocoa vanilla, patchouli, and sandalwood.
• Syringa Blossom and Mandarin: an exotic and delicate blend with mandarin orange, pear sorbet, syringa flower, jasmine, orange blossom, ginger blossom, honey, vanilla, musk, and sandalwood.

These feminine fragrances showcase the complexity and diversity of scents marketed towards women, offering a range of aromas that cater to individual preferences and evoke unique associations.

Frequently asked questions