In the world of perfume, a flanker is a new fragrance that shares some attributes of an already existing perfume. These attributes may include the name, packaging, or notes of the original fragrance. Flankers are a way to renew interest in an older fragrance by making subtle changes to its formulation, such as adding or reducing certain notes, to create different versions of the same scent. For example, a daytime fragrance can be transformed into a nighttime fragrance, or a floral fragrance can be given aquatic or woody notes. Flankers are often criticised for their lack of creativity and originality, but they can also showcase a perfumer's skill in creating new notes under an umbrella name.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Definition | A flanker is a fragrance within a franchise – an offshoot of a popular fragrance (a pillar) that brings something new to the series. |
Purpose | An easy way for brands to shine a light on an existing franchise while offering something new. |
Attributes | Name, packaging, notes, bottle, advertising campaign |
Types | Traditional, innovative, standalone, niche, better than the original, special editions, collector's editions |
Examples | Daisy Dream by Marc Jacobs, Dior's Poison franchise, Jimmy Choo's "Exotic", "Lady Million" by Paco Rabanne, "L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme" by Issey Miyake |
What You'll Learn
Flankers are a way to renew an older fragrance
The list of ingredients or notes may not change much, but the overall effect can be altered by adding or reducing a particular note or fragrance family. For example, a subtle change in formulation could transform a scent from daytime to nighttime, or from floral to aquatic or woody. These new personalities allow the fragrance to develop new options for various audiences of wearers.
Flankers are often special editions that may only be available for a limited time, or they may become permanent fixtures on the shelves alongside the classic. They are generally based on fragrances that have already proven their worth in the market, and they borrow the name and the olfactory scheme to become very distinct compositions from the original. They are often accompanied by new packaging and advertising campaigns.
Creating a flanker is not an easy exercise, as it requires preserving the spirit and original universe of the perfume while giving it a different angle and a new olfactory direction. Flankers are not to be confused with collector's editions, which are re-launches of fragrances that have already proven their worth in the past, often for a limited time.
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They are similar to a sequel
In the world of perfumery, a cologne flanker is like a sequel to a popular fragrance. It is a newly created perfume that shares some attributes of an already existing perfume. These attributes may include the name, packaging, or notes of the original fragrance. Flankers are like sequels because they build upon the success of the original, often with a similar name and packaging, while offering something new.
For example, Dior's 1985 fragrance Poison spawned several flankers, including Tendre Poison (1994), Hypnotic Poison (1998), and Pure Poison (2004). These flankers share the Poison name and are considered part of the Poison franchise, but each offers a unique twist on the original scent. Similarly, Issey Miyake's 1992 fragrance "L'eau d'Issey" was followed by "L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme" in 1994 and "L'Eau d'Issey Florale" in 2011, which are flankers that cater to different audiences while leveraging the popularity of the original.
Flankers are an easy way for fragrance brands to build upon an existing franchise while offering something new to customers. They can be seen as "little brothers or sisters" of the original perfume, borrowing the name and key elements of the olfactory scheme while presenting themselves as distinct compositions. This strategy is common in mass consumption industries, where it is important to occupy as much shelf space as possible and continuously launch new products.
Creating a successful flanker is not an easy task, however. Perfumers must preserve the spirit and original universe of the perfume while giving it a different angle and orienting the composition in a new olfactory direction. The challenge lies in adding a touch of novelty to the original formula, either by adding new ingredients or changing the dosage of existing ones to highlight specific raw materials.
While flankers are often criticised for their lack of creativity and originality, some variations can truly recreate the magic of the original while showcasing the perfumer's art with new notes. Ultimately, flankers are an effective way for fragrance houses to renew and expand their offerings, attracting new fans and keeping customers engaged year after year.
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They share attributes with an existing perfume
Flankers are a way to renew and refresh an older fragrance, creating new versions of a classic scent. They are a way to extend the life of a fragrance and to build a franchise around a popular perfume. In essence, a flanker is a "little brother or sister" to an existing perfume, borrowing some of its attributes, such as its name, packaging, or notes, but with a new twist.
The creation of a flanker is a strategic move by fragrance houses to keep interest in a particular scent alive and to attract new customers. It is a way to capitalise on the success of an existing perfume without having to start from scratch with a new scent, saving money on advertising and development. However, flankers are often criticised for their lack of creativity and originality, and the abundance of choices can lead to confusion for consumers.
The key to a flanker is that it shares some attributes with an existing perfume but is distinct enough to feel new and different. For example, a flanker might amplify certain notes of the original fragrance or subvert them to create a completely different scent profile. It might be a more intense version of the original, or a "sport" or "couture" variation, or it might explore a new personality, such as taking a floral fragrance and adding woody notes to make it suitable for evening wear.
The perfumer must reformulate the original composition by adding something new or changing the dosage of certain ingredients to highlight a particular raw material. This is a delicate task, as the spirit and original universe of the perfume must be preserved while also creating something fresh and unique.
Some examples of flankers include:
- Dior's Poison franchise: Tendre Poison, Hypnotic Poison, Pure Poison, Midnight Poison, etc.
- Juicy Couture's Viva La Juicy: Viva La Fleur (adding aquatic notes) and Viva La Juicy Noir (adding depth with woody notes)
- Burberry's My Burberry: My Burberry Blush (adding bright floral notes) and My Burberry Black (adding amber and patchouli for a spicier, more intense version)
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They are a franchise within a fragrance
Flankers are a way of making an older fragrance new, renewed, and different, thus adding more versions of it to the marketplace. They are a franchise within a fragrance, an offshoot of a popular fragrance (a pillar) that brings something new to the series. Flankers are an easy way for brands to shine a light on an existing franchise while offering something new.
The original formula is the classic of the group, or the OG of the group. The classic is taken to another realm by adding certain ingredients or making it into another formulation altogether. The list of ingredients or notes from the classic fragrance may not change much, but the complete effect could be altered by the addition or reduction of a particular note or fragrance family. Those subtle changes in formulation could take a scent from daytime to nighttime, or a floral to an aquatic or woody type of fragrance. Exploring a new personality within a fragrance allows it to develop into new options for various audiences of wearers.
In the world of flanker scents, there is something to suit everyone. Sometimes flankers are special editions that will not last forever, or they may find a place sitting on the shelves with the classic for years and years to come. Flankers are not to be confused with collector's editions, which are fragrances that are re-launched for a limited or unlimited time.
Creating a flanker is far from easy. It is necessary to preserve the spirit and the original universe of the perfume by giving it a different angle, while orienting the composition in a new olfactory direction. Flankers are generally reinterpretations of classics or already popular fragrances. They are the "little brothers or sisters" of an existing perfume, from which they borrow the name and the olfactory scheme to become very distinct compositions from their elders.
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They are a way to occupy more space on perfumery shelves
Flankers are a way for perfume brands to occupy more space on perfumery shelves. They are a way to renew and differentiate an older fragrance, creating multiple versions of the same scent. By making subtle changes to the original formula, such as adding or removing certain ingredients, perfumers can create flanker scents that appeal to different audiences or suit different occasions. For example, a daytime scent can be transformed into an evening scent, or a floral fragrance can be given aquatic or woody notes.
Flankers are often released as special editions, sitting alongside the classic fragrance for years. They are also an opportunity for perfumers to shine a light on an existing fragrance while offering something new. This strategy can help fragrance houses to grow and gain new fans year after year.
Creating a flanker is not an easy task, as perfumers must preserve the spirit and original universe of the perfume while giving it a new angle and olfactory direction. The term "flanker" can be translated as "ally", and this is exactly what a flanker does—it supports an existing creation.
Flankers are not to be confused with collector's editions, which are limited re-releases of fragrances that have already proven their worth. Flankers, on the other hand, are about occupying as much space as possible on perfumery shelves. They are a result of mass consumption and the increasing number of new products entering the market.
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Frequently asked questions
A cologne flanker is a re-edition of a fragrance that has already been launched.
A fragrance is considered a flanker when it shares attributes of an already existing perfume. These attributes may include the name, packaging, or notes of the original fragrance.
There are several reasons why perfumers create flankers. One reason is to make a registered name that has not been successful profitable. Another reason is to occupy as much space as possible on the shelves of perfumeries, especially with new products being released at a rapid pace.
Collector's editions are limited or unlimited re-launches of fragrances that have already proven their worth in the past. Flankers, on the other hand, are reinterpretations of existing perfumes with added touches of novelty.
Christian Dior's Poison franchise is a successful example, with endless variations of the legendary amber floral perfume. Some noted flankers include Tendre Poison, Hypnotic Poison, Pure Poison, Midnight Poison, and Poison Girl.