Lance Carson
Opium, a women's perfume by Yves Saint Laurent, has had a controversial history. From its scandalous name to its provocative advertising campaigns, Opium has been a topic of discussion since its launch in 1977. The fragrance was an instant success, with sales reaching $30 million in Europe alone within a year. However, in 2009, the formula was changed, and the new version received mixed reviews. While some customers welcomed the reformulation, others were disappointed, wishing for a new name to distinguish it from the original scent. Despite the changes, Opium remains one of the top-selling perfumes in France, retaining its iconic status decades after its debut.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Name | Opium |
| Brand | Yves Saint Laurent |
| Perfumers | Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac |
| Fragrance Type | Oriental-spicy perfume for women |
| Year of Launch | 1977 |
| Advertising Campaign | Photographed by Steven Meisel, featuring English model Sophie Dahl |
| Top Notes | Mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, pepper, bay leaf |
| Middle Notes | Jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, orris root |
| Base Notes | Sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, castoreum, amber, musk, patchouli, tolu balsam, vetiver |
| Bottle Design | Red plastic container with a glass vial, designed by Pierre Dinand |
| Bottle Size | 1.6 Ounce |
| Variant | Eau De Parfum Spray |
| Reception | Mixed, with some customers loving the scent while others finding it too strong or different from the original |
| Price | Pricier, but some customers find it worth the money |
| Availability | Available at major retailers and perfumeries |
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What You'll Learn
Opium's controversial name
Opium is an Oriental-spicy perfume for women, created for the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac. Introduced to the market in 1977, Opium quickly generated publicity with its controversial name.
The name brought accusations that Yves Saint Laurent was condoning drug use. In the United States, a group of Chinese Americans demanded a change of name and a public apology from Saint Laurent for "his insensitivity to Chinese history and Chinese American concerns". They formed a committee called the American Coalition Against Opium and Drug Abuse, which expressed outrage at the choice of a name representing "a menace that destroyed many lives in China".
The coalition failed to prevent the North American launch of the fragrance but was successful in having the slogan “For those who are addicted to Yves Saint Laurent” changed to “For those who adore Yves Saint Laurent”. The fashion house largely ignored the controversy, which helped the perfume’s publicity, with the perfume soon becoming a best-selling product.
In 2000, an advertising campaign for the product featuring English model Sophie Dahl was met with mixed reactions internationally. The posters were deemed too sexually suggestive, degrading to women, and likely to cause "serious or widespread offence".
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The perfume's advertising campaigns
Opium, the Oriental-spicy women's perfume created for Yves Saint Laurent, was introduced in 1977. Its name, which references a drug from the Orient, caused a scandal, especially in the United States, where a group of Chinese Americans demanded a change of name and a public apology from Saint Laurent. They formed a committee called the American Coalition Against Opium and Drug Abuse, which expressed outrage at the choice of name, representing "a menace that destroyed many lives in China."
However, the press coverage helped increase sales, with the perfume soon becoming a best-selling product. The promotional US launch party in 1978 featured the German ship Peking, named after the Chinese city of Beijing, draped with colourful banners.
In 1986, a vintage perfume commercial featured supermodel Linda Evangelista in an Indiana Jones-style commercial about a woman in an "exotic" market choosing a male sex slave.
In late 2000, an advertising campaign featuring English model Sophie Dahl caused controversy. Dahl posed naked except for jewellery and a pair of stiletto heels, with her legs spread apart, seemingly in the throes of ecstasy. The campaign, photographed by Steven Meisel, was seen in print advertisements and posters in bus shelters across many countries. It won an award in Spain but was met with negative reactions in other places, particularly in the United Kingdom. The British Advertising Standards Authority received over 700 complaints and ordered the posters' removal on the grounds that they were too sexually suggestive, degrading to women, and likely to cause "serious or widespread offence".
Journalist Susan Faludi argued that certain perfume advertising campaigns pushed the "idealization of weak yielding women" to the extreme, citing the Opium advertisement as an example.
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Customer reviews of the new Opium
Customer reviews for the new Opium perfume by Yves Saint Laurent are mixed, with some praising the scent as exotic, luxurious, seductive, and captivating, while others express disappointment, comparing it unfavourably to the original version.
Some customers who have used Opium for years claim that the new scent is lacking and not close to what it should be. One reviewer, who gave the product one star, mentioned that the scent was unnoticeable and an ordinary fragrance, not worth the price. Another reviewer expressed disappointment, stating that the new version should have been named something else.
On the other hand, positive reviews describe the scent as exotic, with a perfect balance of rich coffee, warm vanilla, and sweet floral notes. One reviewer mentioned that the perfume drew compliments wherever she went, and she felt confident and elegant while wearing it. Another customer praised the packaging, stating that it added to the overall experience of the perfume.
A few reviewers specifically compared the EDT (Eau de Toilette) and EDP (Eau de Parfum) versions of the new Opium. One person preferred the EDT for its stronger contrast between sparkling citrusy top notes and a velvety dry-down, while another reviewer found the EDP more velvety and preferred it for its powdery, warm finish.
Overall, while some customers appreciate the new Opium for its unique scent and elegant packaging, others are loyal to the original version and find the new formulation underwhelming or too different from the classic Opium fragrance they know and love.
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The scent's top, middle and base notes
The Yves Saint Laurent Opium perfume collection features a variety of scents, with several variations of the original fragrance. The original Opium, an Oriental-spicy perfume for women, was introduced to the market in 1977. It features a mix of fruits and spices in its top notes, including mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, pepper, and bay leaf. The middle notes are predominantly floral, with jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, and orris root. The base notes are sweet and woody, with sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, castoreum, amber, musk, patchouli, tolu balsam, and vetiver.
Over the years, there have been several reformulations of Opium, including a new version released in 2009. This new version has been described as having a stronger contrast between sparkling citrusy top notes and a velvety, enveloping dry-down. It retains some of the original's notes, such as mandarin, carnation, jasmine, patchouli, amber, and vanilla, while adding new accents like bergamot. Some reviewers express a preference for the new version, finding it more pleasant and balanced, while others remain loyal to the original, wishing the new formula had been given a different name.
The Black Opium Eau de Parfum, a later addition to the Opium collection, features adrenaline-rich coffee and sweet sensuality of vanilla as its opening notes. It captures the essence of an edgy and daring woman, with the strong scent of coffee complemented by warm floral vanilla notes. The heart of the fragrance bursts with florals, including white flowers, while the base is a sweet vanilla.
Opium pour Homme, launched in 1995, is the male complement to the original Opium. Its main note is vanilla, with accents of black currant, galangal, star anise, ginger, and pepper. The base notes are cedar and Tolu balsam, creating a warm and spicy fragrance.
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Opium's sales and success
Opium is an Oriental-spicy perfume for women, created for the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac. It was introduced to the market in 1977 to coincide with the brand's Autumn-Winter collection inspired by China. The perfume quickly generated publicity due to its controversial name, which was accused of condoning drug use and being insensitive to Chinese history and Chinese American concerns. Despite the negative backlash, the ensuing press coverage helped increase sales, with the perfume soon becoming a best-selling product.
The success of Opium is evident in its sales figures and lasting popularity. Within a year of its launch, sales in Europe reached US$30 million. Thirty years later, Opium remains one of the top ten bestselling perfumes worldwide, alongside Chanel No. 5. This feat is particularly impressive considering the fragrance market's highly competitive and fickle nature, where only five per cent of scents remain on sale a year after their release.
The unique blend of scents in Opium contributed to its success. Its top notes are a mixture of fruits and spices, including mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, and pepper. Floral middle notes of jasmine, rose, and lily of the valley add a sophisticated touch, while the sweet woody base note leaves a lasting impression with sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, and other warm spices.
Opium's success has also inspired new iterations, such as Black Opium in 2014, which targeted a younger demographic. While the new versions have their fans, the original Opium remains iconic and irreplaceable for many. The perfume has developed a loyal following, with some customers paying a year in advance to secure a bottle during the initial launch.
Despite some reformulations and updates, Opium has stood the test of time as one of the most popular fragrances of the 20th century. Its success can be attributed to its unique scent, memorable name, and effective marketing campaigns, even amidst various controversies. Opium's ability to remain relevant and in demand decades after its release is a testament to its iconic status in the fragrance world.
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Frequently asked questions
Opium is an Oriental-spicy perfume for women, created for the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac.
Opium caused controversy due to its name, which references a drug from the Orient. This led to accusations that Yves Saint Laurent was condoning drug use and being insensitive to Chinese history and Chinese American concerns.
The press coverage surrounding the controversy actually helped increase sales, with the perfume soon becoming a best-selling product.
Yes, Opium was reformulated in 2009. Some people prefer the new version, while others wish it had been given a different name to distinguish it from the original.
The top notes of Opium are a mixture of fruits and spices, including mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, and pepper. The middle notes are floral, with jasmine, rose, and lily of the valley, while the base note is a sweet, woody blend of sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, and other warm scents.
