The Chinese And Their Fragrances: A Cultural Perspective

The Chinese perception of fragrances is vastly different from that of the West. During Mao's Cultural Revolution, the use of perfume was deemed illegal, and those who wore scents were tortured and humiliated. This, along with the widespread poverty that followed, led to the Chinese losing the habit of wearing perfume. Even today, fragrances are not commonly perceived or used in China as they are in the West, and are primarily purchased as a symbol of prestige by the fashionable Chinese elite. The average Chinese person is not used to wearing perfume, and the Chinese market contributes to only 1% of the value sales of fragrances globally. However, with the emergence of Chinese brands and the growing popularity of fragrances among the younger generation, the Chinese perception of and relationship with fragrances is evolving.

Perfume as a prestige item

Perfumes have been regarded as a prestige item in China, primarily purchased by the fashionable Chinese elite. The average Chinese person is not accustomed to wearing perfume unless they are extremely particular about their image, such as those working for international companies or as high-ranking executives. The Chinese market accounts for 20% of the world's population but only contributes 1% to the value sales of fragrances. This is partly due to the country's recent history, including Mao's Cultural Revolution, during which the use of perfume was made illegal, causing the Chinese people to lose the habit of wearing fragrances.

In modern China, actual fragrances in liquid or spray form are not commonly perceived or used in the same way as in the West. When perfumes are purchased, it is often for prestige reasons, and the lightest, quietest, and freshest compositions are preferred. Strong, powerful fragrances may be seen as a vulgarity, and fragrance is generally not considered a manly thing due to its association with femininity.

However, there is a growing interest in local brands of luxury perfume, particularly those that make chen xiang (agarwood), which is sought after by wealthy Chinese individuals. Chen xiang is extremely expensive, with a high-quality piece costing several million yuan, making it a true status symbol.

While the Chinese fragrance industry is unlikely to change significantly in the immediate future, there may be opportunities for the country to emerge as a force in the sale of fragrance materials, with China already producing a significant proportion of the world's eucalyptus and geranium oil.

The average Chinese person is not used to wearing perfume

Historically, the use of perfume was illegal during Mao's Cultural Revolution. Those who wore scents or perfumes before 1967 were punished, and the perfume industry in China was effectively eradicated. By the time the country emerged from this period of chaos, Chinese people had lost the habit of wearing perfume. During a time of widespread poverty, perfume was a luxury that most people were happy to do without.

Even before the Cultural Revolution, there was not a longstanding perfume culture in China comparable to that of France. Attitudes towards scent were different, and basic body aromas varied from those in the West.

Biologically, Asians do not sweat as much as Westerners, and the importance of cleanliness contributes to the popularity of certain types of olfactory products, such as body sprays or laundry products that provide an indirect scent.

In modern China, actual fragrance in liquid or spray form is still not widely used. When perfume is purchased, it is often a prestige item bought by the fashionable Chinese elite. International brands like Chanel, Dior, Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, and L'Oréal China dominate the market, as fragrance is primarily bought as a status symbol rather than for its scent.

While there are local Chinese fragrance brands, they do not have a large market share due to the social and cultural attitudes towards scent. Strong, powerful fragrances may be seen as vulgar, and fragrance is not typically associated with masculinity. As a result, the average Chinese person is not accustomed to wearing perfume.

Chinese preferences for milder scents

The Chinese fragrance market is an interesting one, with a variety of factors influencing the preferences and purchasing habits of consumers. While the average Chinese person is not accustomed to wearing perfume, those who are extremely particular about their image, such as individuals working for international companies or as high-ranking executives, may be more likely to use scented products.

Historically, China's recent chaotic history, including Mao's Cultural Revolution, played a significant role in shaping the country's fragrance culture. During the Cultural Revolution, the use of perfume was illegal, and those who dared to use scents or perfumes before 1967 faced severe consequences. This period left a lasting impact on the Chinese people's habits and attitudes towards fragrance.

In modern China, actual fragrances in liquid or spray form are viewed differently from traditional scented products. Biological physiology plays a role, as Asians generally produce less sweat compared to Westerners, reducing the need for strong perfumes to mask body odours. Additionally, the importance of cleanliness contributes to the popularity of certain types of olfactory products, such as body sprays or the lingering scent from laundry products.

When it comes to preferences, Chinese consumers tend to favour milder scents. This can be attributed to cultural attitudes towards scent, where strong, powerful fragrances may be seen as a sign of vulgarity. The word "scent" in Chinese evokes femininity, which creates an additional barrier to the sale of perfumes for men. As a result, companies use popular male celebrities or actors to promote fragrances and make them seem more acceptable to male consumers.

The Chinese market for fragrances is largely driven by prestige and luxury considerations. Chanel, for example, dominates the market due to its reputation and brand recognition. When purchasing fragrances, Chinese consumers often seek out the lightest, quietest, and freshest compositions possible. This preference for milder scents is also reflected in the popularity of Eau de Toilette, which offers a more subtle fragrance experience compared to stronger concentrations like Eau de Parfum.

In summary, the Chinese fragrance market is influenced by a combination of historical, cultural, and physiological factors. Consumers tend to favour milder scents, driven by a preference for freshness and subtlety. The market is largely driven by prestige, with brands like Chanel and Dior holding significant appeal. Overall, the use of fragrance in China is still evolving, and it may take time for a broader attitudinal shift towards appreciating scent for its own sake.

Chinese cultural attitudes towards scent

History of Scent in China

China has a rich history of scent appreciation, which is deeply rooted in its culture and traditions. The use of fragrant products dates back centuries and was often influenced by Taoism, which can be traced back to the 3rd or 4th century BC. In Taoist belief, the extraction of a plant's fragrance was thought to liberate the soul, mirroring the transformation from the physical to a spiritual state. The word "Heang" was used to describe perfume, incense, or fragrance and had six classifications according to the mood it created: tranquil, reclusive, luxurious, beautiful, refined, or noble.

During the time of the Imperial Court and the imperial concubine system, fragrant oils, flowers, sandalwood, and spices brought from the ancient Silk Road were commonly used. For example, the notorious "Dragon Empress" or "She-Dragon", Empress Cixi, was known for her love of scented products and used oils like jasmine, rose, orange blossom, and honeysuckle as fragrances.

Incense was also highly popular, especially among noble families, who placed incense burners in their homes and infused their clothes with incense before leaving the house to enjoy the scent throughout the day. Fashion-conscious women would also wear floral nectars distilled from flowers such as lily, lotus, and chrysanthemum.

Fragrance as a Symbol of Prestige

In modern China, the use of fragrance has evolved, and it is often viewed as a symbol of prestige rather than a daily necessity. The average Chinese person is not accustomed to wearing perfume unless they are particularly image-conscious or work for international companies or as high-ranking executives. The Chinese market for fragrances is dominated by Western brands such as Chanel, Dior, Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, and L'Oréal, which are perceived as luxurious and prestigious.

Strong, powerful fragrances may be considered vulgar by some, and there is a preference for milder, fresher scents, such as Eau de Toilette. However, there is also a rise in the popularity of local luxury perfume brands, especially those that make chen xiang (agarwood), which is sought after by wealthy Chinese consumers for its prestige rather than its smell.

Cultural Revolution and the Impact on Fragrance

The use of perfume in China underwent a significant change during Mao's Cultural Revolution. During this period, perfume was associated with Western bourgeois "decadence" and was made illegal. This disruption, coupled with widespread poverty, caused the Chinese people to lose the habit of using fragrances.

Biological Factors and Cleanliness

Another factor influencing the Chinese cultural attitude towards scent is biological physiology. Asians tend to sweat less than Westerners, reducing the need for masking body odours with perfumes. Additionally, the importance of cleanliness in Chinese culture also contributes to the preference for certain types of olfactory products, such as body sprays or laundry products that provide a subtle, fresh scent.

Gender Associations

Fragrance use in China is also influenced by gender associations. The word "scent" is strongly associated with femininity, creating a barrier to the widespread acceptance of perfumes among men. However, companies are using male celebrities and actors to promote fragrances to make them more acceptable to a male audience.

The role of scent in ancient China

Incense and Fragrance Culture

Incense played a significant role in ancient Chinese civilisation, with a history dating back to at least the 3rd century BC. The culture of incense was not limited to religious rituals but also had secular applications. The burning of incense was performed in various social contexts, including sacred and profane, public and private settings. The word "xiang" in Chinese refers to a broad group of fragrant substances, including solid and powdery forms, as well as cones, coils, and sticks that emitted fragrance when burned.

Social and Cultural Significance

Incense was used to perfume interiors and clothes, with ancient Chinese people carrying scented sachets filled with aromatic resins and woods. The culture of incense was closely associated with social status, especially during the Ming dynasty, where it became integrated into the material culture of the elite. The type of incense burner and the fragrances used were indicators of social standing, with bronze and silver valued over gold.

Religious and Spiritual Significance

The advent of Buddhism played a critical role in the evolution of China's incense culture. Burning incense was a form of reverence for deities in Buddhist temples, purifying the atmosphere and preparing it for the assembly of Buddhas and Bodhisattvas. The incense burner was considered the most important object in a temple, and the lighting and extinguishing of incense marked the beginning and end of each liturgy.

Health and Wellbeing

In ancient China, incense and fragrances were believed to have physiological effects and were used in medicine. For example, agarwood (chenxiang or chen xiang) was used in traditional Chinese medicine as a tonic, diuretic, stimulant, and aphrodisiac, as well as to treat various ailments such as heart pain, stomach pain, fatigue, stress, and anxiety.

Artistic and Literary Inspiration

The culture of incense inspired artistic production, with incense burners and other incense accoutrements becoming highly prized objects of art. Incense also influenced literary works, with references to its use appearing in poetry and novels. For example, the 6th-century poet Yu Jianwu wrote about the use of incense for time-keeping in monasteries.

In conclusion, the role of scent in ancient China was diverse and significant, impacting various aspects of daily life, from social interactions and cultural practices to health, wellbeing, and artistic endeavours.

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