The Evolution Of Cologne: Do People Still Wear It?

The world of fragrances is ever-evolving, with new trends, scents, and rules constantly emerging. While some people are passionate about fragrances and have extensive collections, others may only have a few bottles or wear them only on special occasions. The culture of wearing cologne varies across regions and demographics, and modern etiquette around fragrances is subject to change.

In the past, guidelines for wearing cologne were more straightforward, such as pairing fresh and citrusy fragrances with summer and warm, spicy fragrances with winter. However, these rules are no longer set in stone, and people are encouraged to explore different scents and create their unique style.

Today, the fragrance industry offers a wide range of options, from designer and celebrity scents to niche and luxury colognes. With the rise of unisex fragrances, individuals are free to choose what they like without being confined by gender labels. The way a person chooses to express themselves through scent can vary from day to day, reflecting their mood, context, and personal preferences.

Occasion-appropriate colognes

While the choice of cologne is now more about personal preference than following fashion dictates, it's still important to choose a cologne that suits the occasion. Here are some tips for selecting the right cologne for different situations:

Work

When it comes to choosing a cologne for the office, it's best to opt for something light and subtle. You don't want your scent to be too overpowering in an enclosed space. Citrus scents are a good choice as they are fresh and won't cause headaches for your colleagues. However, they tend to dissipate quickly, so keep a small bottle or travel atomiser with you for a midday top-up. If you work in an open-plan office, be mindful that your choice of fragrance might be too much for your neighbours, so it's best to tone it down.

Socialising with colleagues

When socialising with colleagues, it's a good idea to switch up your cologne to something a little more distinctive while still retaining some professionalism. Look for scents with notes like amber and ambergris, which are less likely to be worn by others. A modern classic like Givenchy Gentleman, which has woody and aromatic notes, is a safe choice.

Job interviews

For job interviews, you want to make a good impression without being too overpowering. Choose a clean and subtle scent, such as an eau fraiche, which has a low concentration of essential oils. This will leave a lasting impression without being too strong.

Dates

To guarantee a second date, choose a unique scent that your date is unlikely to have smelled before. Pick out unusual notes like pomegranate, bamboo or coconut. Be careful not to go overboard, as strong fragrances can alter your sense of taste and ruin a dinner. A spritz on each collarbone is enough.

Dinner parties

For dinner parties, the challenge is to find a cologne that has enough strength to be noticed over the scent of food but isn't too overpowering. Look for a heavy base like oud that's been softened by lighter notes such as vanilla and rose.

Weekends

The weekend is a time to relax, so choose a cologne that's easy and classic. Reach for a tried-and-tested all-rounder that will always make you smell good, whether you're at the pub or out for a walk.

Weddings

Weddings are formal occasions, so choose a scent that will last. Opt for an eau de parfum, which has a high concentration of essential oils and will linger until the end of the night.

Summer

In the summer, it's important to choose a lighter, fresher fragrance. Scents that evoke tropical climes, such as neroli, Sicilian lemon and jasmine, are perfect for this time of year.

Unisex fragrances

While the concept of gendered fragrances persists, the line between fragrances for men and women is blurring. Unisex fragrances are becoming increasingly popular, as people are no longer confined by the labels of "for him" and "for her".

Some popular unisex fragrances include those inspired by well-known perfumes and colognes, such as YSL's Libre, Jo Malone's Wood Sage & Sea Salt, Chanel's Bleu de Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana's Light Blue, Gucci's Bloom, J'Adore Dior, Creed's Aventus, and Le Labo Santal 33. These fragrances offer individuals the opportunity to wear scents typically associated with a particular gender, without being restricted by those boundaries.

Additionally, brands like Glossier, with their "You" Eau de Parfum, and KAYA, with their "VANILLA | 28" and "OUDGASM VANILLA OUD | 36" Eau de Parfums, are creating fragrances that are marketed explicitly as unisex. These fragrances are designed to appeal to a diverse range of consumers, regardless of their gender identity.

The rise in unisex fragrances reflects a broader shift towards inclusivity and individuality in the fragrance industry, empowering people to express themselves authentically and explore scents that resonate with them on a personal level.

Colognes for different seasons

While some people stick to a "`signature fragrance`" all year round, others adapt their choice of cologne to the changing seasons. This is a common practice in countries with distinct seasons, such as those in Europe and Canada. The following is a guide to colognes for each season, based on personality traits and preferences.

Spring

Spring symbolises the renewal of nature, flowering, and freshness. People who are drawn to this season tend to be lively, cheerful, energetic, and spontaneous. They are social, direct, and have a sporty and natural look. Their favourite drinks include fresh fruit juices, lemonades, sparkling water with lemon, and cocktails like mojitos and caipirinhas. They prefer tea over coffee and may be vegan, gravitating towards fresh and healthy food options. Their favourite colours are bright and fresh, such as coral, orange, and canary yellow. They enjoy outdoor activities like picnics, bike rides, and dancing.

Colognes for spring personalities emphasise freshness and include classic or modern eaux de cologne, green fragrances, fresh eau, and solifloral fragrances for women. Citrus notes such as bergamot, yuzu, mandarin, or caviar lime are popular, as well as green and floral notes like lilies, lilacs, freesia, and peony.

Summer

Summer personalities are feminine, reserved, and artistic, with a "maternal" nature. They value privacy and have a tender, sensitive, modest, and dreamy disposition. However, they also possess great strength and determination. They favour elegant and feminine styles without sacrificing their masculinity. Their favourite drinks include subtle orange blossom teas, jasmine or green teas, gin cocktails, and white wine. They enjoy light and refined dishes, salads, and fish. Their favourite colours are pastel tones, shades of blue, pale pink, and beige. They prefer soft and feminine fabrics like silk, taffeta, lace, and cashmere.

Summer colognes are subtle, nuanced, and finely crafted. For women, semi-oriental fragrances are popular, as well as sun-drenched scents like Dior Homme and Instant de Guerlain pour Homme for men. Marine notes are also interesting in summer as they evoke the scent of sea spray.

Autumn

Autumn personalities are calm, thoughtful, determined, and authentic, with a frank and sometimes androgynous attitude. They value friendly relationships and have their own unique style, often not following fashion trends. They may be entrepreneurs or interested in politics. Their favourite drinks include coffee, chai or smoked tea, whisky, cognac, and red wine. They have a preference for savoury dishes, spices, classic sauces, and meat. Their favourite colours reflect the shades of autumn, including greens, khaki, dark orange, and coppery tones. They seek rare and elite fabrics like leather, cotton, and linen.

Autumn colognes include chypre scents with woody moss notes, fresh and green scents, Middle Eastern oud wood, and other woody, leathery, or spicy fragrances.

Winter

Winter personalities are extroverted, theatrical, and seductive, with a mysterious and trendy edge. They are tactile and enjoy being in urban environments, discovering new restaurants, shopping, and visiting museums. Their favourite drinks include cappuccinos, hot chocolates, gourmet cocktails, and champagne. They have a sweet tooth, favouring cakes, sweets, and chocolate. Their favourite colours are cold, such as white, black, dark red, and blue. They prefer enveloping and sensual fabrics like taffeta, cashmere, silk, velvet, and fur.

Winter colognes feature deep, sensual, and oriental notes, such as amber, balsams, incense, and myrrh. Woody and warm fragrances with sweet notes of ginger, cinnamon, and musk are also popular. It is a season for experimenting with perfumes, layering them to create a unique scent.

How much cologne to wear

The consensus is clear: when it comes to cologne, less is more. Overpowering scents can be off-putting, cause irritation, and even be a reason for breaking up, according to a 2016 survey by Vogue.com. So, how much is too much, and how can you avoid applying too much cologne?

Firstly, the number of sprays you apply will depend on the type of cologne you are using. Colognes can be categorised by their concentration and staying power, with the higher the percentage of aromatic essence, the stronger the smell. The categories are:

• Eau de Cologne (2-4% concentration)
• Eau de Toilette (5-15% concentration)
• Eau de Parfum (15-20% concentration)
• Perfume Spray (20-30% concentration)

For Eau de Colognes, you may need more sprays (up to six) as they are less potent, whereas for Eau de Parfums, two to four sprays are enough. Lighter fragrances may need more sprays (four to six) to have the same effect as stronger scents.

The areas you apply cologne are also important. Pulse points, or the warmest areas of the body, are ideal as they project the scent more efficiently, meaning less fragrance is required. These areas include the wrists, neck, chest, shoulders, and inner elbows. You should avoid the armpits, behind the knees, and the groin area as these areas are prone to sweat build-up which can affect the cologne's concentration.

When applying cologne, hold the bottle three to six inches away from your skin and target one or two pulse points. Two sprays are often enough, one on the neck and one on the shirt, or you can apply to the wrists and rub them together, applying any excess behind the ears.

In summary, the key to knowing how much cologne to wear is to understand the type of cologne you are using, apply it to the right areas, and remember that a little goes a long way.

Choosing a cologne

Know the Basics

Cologne is a type of fragrance, and there are several types of fragrances, including:

• Eau Fraiche: The most diluted form, lasting under an hour.
• Eau de Cologne: The oldest term for perfume, used for masculine scents. Light, fresh, fruity, and lasting for around two hours.
• Eau de Toilette: A light spray lasting around three hours.
• Eau de Parfum: Genderless, and the best term for describing a fragrance. Lasting for around five to eight hours.
• Parfum: The most concentrated and expensive option, lasting up to 24 hours.

Understand the Fragrance Families and Their Seasonality

Traditionally, citrus scents are associated with summer, and warming tobacco, leather, and spice with winter. However, modern fragrance usage is more flexible. You can wear any scent at any time of year, but be aware that certain fragrances will react to heat and humidity.

Try Before You Buy

It's important to try a fragrance before you buy it. Most brands offer sample sizes, and you can also buy sample vials from sites like LuckyScent. You can also ask people what scent they're wearing if you like it.

Know the Classics

Knowing the classic scents gives you a framework from which to pick your own.

Weigh Mass Appeal Against Niche

A mass-market fragrance is likely to be cheaper, but you risk smelling like someone else. A niche fragrance is more likely to be unique, but may be more expensive and not universally liked.

Understand Your Motives

Learn the Lingo

There are three types of notes in a fragrance:

• Top note: The initial smell that lasts from 15 minutes to two hours. Usually a light floral, citrus, fruity, or spicy scent.
• Medium/heart note: The main element of the fragrance, which develops after the top note and can last three to five hours. Includes heavier florals, green scents, and spices.
• Base note: The bolder notes that become noticeable later in the day, and determine how long the fragrance lasts. These include sandalwood, moss, vanilla, smoke, and musk.

Tips for Buying

• Don't let others choose for you.
• Don't buy without trying the perfume on your skin.
• Test a few scents at a time, on your wrists or inner elbows.
• Refresh your palate with coffee or tea between smelling.
• Take notes on your phone about which fragrances you like and why.

Application Tips

• Spray perfume on dry skin, preferably after a shower.
• Start with one spray on your chest, and add more sprays to your wrists in the second half of the day if needed.
• Apply to heat areas of the body, such as the chest, neck, and wrists.
• Don't rub the perfume into the skin, as this weakens the scent.
• Don't spray and walk through the mist.
• Don't spray on clothes, as it won't mix with your natural oils.
• Less is more.

Frequently asked questions