The Fragrance Notes: A Guide To Scents And Aromas

Do fragrances expire? This is a question that has plagued fragrance enthusiasts for years. While some believe that fragrances have a set expiration date and need to be used soon after purchase, others argue that fragrances can last a very long time if stored correctly. So, which is it?

The truth is, fragrances do not have a set expiration date and can last for years, especially if they are stored in optimal conditions. However, it's important to note that fragrances can go bad and may start to smell off, or cause skin irritations or allergic reactions. The longevity of a fragrance depends on various factors such as its chemical composition, quality, scent family, and storage conditions.

Fragrance types and their longevity

Fragrances are categorised by the concentration of fragrance oils in their formula. The higher the concentration, the longer the scent tends to last.

Parfum (Extrait de Parfum)

Parfum contains the highest concentration of fragrance oils, typically between 20% and 40%. This high concentration means that parfum lasts the longest on the skin, often up to 24 hours. Only a small amount is needed, and it tends to have a rich, deep scent.

Eau de Parfum (EDP)

Eau de Parfum is the second most concentrated category, with fragrance oil concentrations ranging from 10% to 20%. Eau de Parfums are popular for their balance of strength and longevity, typically lasting between 4 to 8 hours. This makes them suitable for day-to-day wear as well as special occasions.

Eau de Toilette (EDT)

Eau de Toilette has a lower concentration of fragrance oils, typically between 5% and 15%. EDTs are lighter and more refreshing, making them ideal for casual, everyday use. They generally last between 3 to 6 hours, which is shorter than Eau de Parfums but still substantial for daily activities.

Eau de Cologne (EDC)

Eau de Cologne contains about 2% to 4% fragrance oils. EDCs are much lighter and typically last around 2 to 3 hours. They are often used for a quick, refreshing burst of scent but need to be reapplied throughout the day.

Eau Fraiche

Eau Fraiche has the lowest concentration of fragrance oils, typically 1% to 3%. This category is mostly water with a small amount of scent, making it the lightest and shortest-lasting option. Eau Fraiche usually lasts less than 2 hours.

Factors Influencing Longevity

While the concentration of fragrance oils is a key determinant of longevity, several other factors also play a role. These include skin type (oily skin retains fragrances longer than dry skin), application area (applying perfume to pulse points enhances longevity), climate (warmer climates can cause perfumes to evaporate faster), and storage (storing perfumes in a cool, dark place helps maintain their potency).

Fragrance notes

Top notes, sometimes referred to as head or opening notes, form the top layer of a fragrance. They are the scents you detect first after spraying a perfume and play a role in setting first impressions. Top notes usually evaporate quickly, lingering for only the first five to fifteen minutes. Common top notes include citrus scents like lemon, orange, and bergamot, as well as light floral scents like lavender and rose.

Heart or middle notes make up the "heart" of the fragrance. They retain some of the top notes' aroma while introducing new scents to deepen the experience. Heart notes usually last longer than top notes and appear as the top notes start to fade, remaining evident for the full life of the fragrance. Heart notes include full-bodied, aromatic floral oils like jasmine, geranium, neroli, and ylang-ylang, as well as spices like cinnamon, pepper, and cardamom.

Base notes, also called soul notes, form the foundation of the fragrance. They kick in about 30 minutes after application and work together with the middle notes to create the scent's foundation. Since base notes sink into your skin, their scent lingers the longest, up to six hours or more. Popular base notes include vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, moss, and woody notes like sandalwood and cedarwood.

The art of perfumery lies in the skillful blending and harmonising of these perfume notes to create a captivating olfactory experience. Perfumers often use various techniques, including dilution, layering, distillation, and vaporisation, to create a fragrance accord, or a unique olfactory experience.

Fragrance ingredients and their extraction

The art of perfumery involves exploring plant-based ingredients and their extraction techniques to create fragrances. Natural plant-based ingredients include essential oils, absolutes, and other aromatic extracts derived from a wide range of botanical sources. Each ingredient has a unique olfactory profile, and perfumers carefully select and combine them to create a symphony of scents that blend harmoniously.

Essential oils are a key category of perfume ingredients. They are concentrated oils derived from various plant parts, such as flowers, leaves, fruits, bark, and resins, obtained through processes like steam distillation or cold pressing. Each essential oil carries the distinct fragrance of the plant it is derived from, such as lavender, rose, citrus, or sandalwood.

Absolutes are another important group of perfume ingredients. They are highly concentrated aromatic substances obtained through solvent extraction from delicate flowers like jasmine and tuberose. Solvent extraction involves placing plants in a rotating drum and coating them with a solvent like benzene or petroleum. The solvent dissolves the plants, leaving behind a waxy substance containing the oils, which are then dissolved in ethyl alcohol to create perfume oil.

In addition to plant-based materials, synthetic ingredients are also used in perfumery. These chemically derived compounds mimic natural scents or introduce novel fragrance profiles, providing perfumers with a vast array of creative combinations.

Resins are another type of ingredient used in perfumery. Secreted by tree bark, resins are often sticky, smoky-smelling substances with warm and ambery notes. They add depth to a fragrance and have been used for centuries, commonly burned as incense. Resins can be extracted through methods such as tapping into the tree's bark or burning the bark to obtain the resin.

The process of fragrance extraction involves separating aromatic compounds from raw materials using techniques like distillation, solvent extraction, expression, sieving, or enfleurage. The results of these extracts can be essential oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters, depending on the wax content in the extracted product.

Organic solvent extraction is the most common technique in the modern perfume industry. Raw materials are submerged and agitated in a solvent like hexane or dimethyl ether, which dissolves the desired aromatic compounds. The extract is then subjected to vacuum processing to remove and reclaim the solvent for re-use.

Supercritical fluid extraction is a newer technique that often employs supercritical CO2 as the extraction solvent. When carbon dioxide is put under high pressure at slightly above room temperature, it forms a supercritical fluid that can extract volatile oils from the raw material. This process closely resembles the natural scent of the raw material and is more environmentally friendly.

Health effects of fragrances

Fragrances are a common part of our daily lives, from perfumes and colognes to air fresheners, soaps, and shampoos. However, the potential health effects of fragrances are a growing concern. Fragrances often contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs) which can have negative impacts on our health. Here are some of the key health effects associated with exposure to fragrances:

Short-Term Health Effects

• Allergic or inflammatory responses such as itchy or watery eyes, congestion, a runny nose, throat irritation, coughing, or wheezing.
• For people with lung diseases like asthma or chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD), fragrances can cause wheezing, shortness of breath, or other underlying symptoms.
• Changes in heart rate or blood pressure.

Long-Term Health Effects

• Difficulty breathing.
• Changes in cardiac function, specifically the heart's ability to pump blood.
• Disruption to the endocrine system, which regulates hormones. This can lead to issues such as polycystic ovary syndrome.
• Increases in glucose levels, similar to those seen in people with type 2 diabetes, which can be passed from pregnant women to their offspring.
• Based on early research, a possible exacerbation of dementia.
• Certain types of cancer, especially with high, prolonged, and continuous exposure to some compounds.

Vulnerable Populations

People who work in industries with continuous exposure to fragrances, such as cleaning, cosmetics, or agriculture, are at the highest risk of health effects. Additionally, individuals with allergies, sensitivities, or pre-existing conditions like asthma or COPD are more susceptible to adverse reactions. Even without any underlying lung disease, many people experience coughing or sneezing when exposed to strong fragrances.

Reducing Exposure

To reduce potential health risks, it is recommended to:

• Wear a mask if you are sensitive to fragrances or have an underlying condition.
• Limit your time in environments with irritating fragrances.
• Increase ventilation and use exhaust fans.
• Use unscented products whenever possible.
• Avoid aerosol dispensers, and if you must use them, turn your head away when dispensing.
• Opt for slowly diffused candles or essential oils for home fragrances, but be aware that these are not risk-free.

Fragrance regulation

IFRA Standards:

The IFRA Standards serve as the cornerstone of fragrance regulation, providing a comprehensive, science-based approach to managing the safe use of fragrances. These standards have been developed in collaboration with members and stakeholders, under the oversight of independent experts. They are recognised and enforced globally, ensuring consistency in the fragrance industry. The key objectives of the IFRA Standards are to:

• Ban, limit, or set criteria for the use of specific ingredients, utilising scientific evidence and consumer insights.
• Protect consumer well-being by offering a high degree of protection to the majority of the population.
• Ensure responsiveness to new scientific data, maintaining consumer confidence worldwide.

Legislative Framework:

In addition to the IFRA Standards, several legislative frameworks govern the fragrance industry, particularly in the European Union (EU) and the United Kingdom (UK). As of August 2020, the following regulations are in place:

• European Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008: This regulation focuses on the classification, labelling, and packaging of substances and mixtures, also known as the CLP Regulation. It came into force in all EU member states, including the UK, on 20 January 2010.
• REACH (European Union Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006): REACH stands for Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and restriction of Chemicals. It came into force on 1 June 2007 and covers the management of chemicals within the EU.
• Regulation (EC) N° 1223/2009: This regulation serves as the primary framework for finished cosmetic products placed on the EU market. It ensures the safety and proper labelling of cosmetic products containing fragrances.
• Regulation 648/2004: This regulation outlines the conditions for placing detergents containing fragrances on the EU market, ensuring proper labelling and safety.

Compliance and Certification:

Companies in the fragrance industry, such as Carvansons, adhere to the IFRA Code of Practice in manufacturing and handling fragrance materials. They also provide guidance to customers regarding regulation and labelling compliance, including international CLP labelling and allergen information. Furthermore, Carvansons has achieved ISO9001 Compliance, demonstrating their commitment to quality management and customer satisfaction.

Overall, fragrance regulation aims to strike a balance between enabling a competitive global industry and safeguarding consumer safety and choice. By complying with regulations and standards set by organisations like IFRA and relevant legislative bodies, the fragrance industry can continue to thrive while protecting consumer interests.

Frequently asked questions