Extracting Fragrance: How To Isolate Cologne's Scents

Creating your own cologne can be a fun and rewarding process, but it's important to understand the basics of fragrance extraction first. The process of fragrance extraction involves separating aromatic compounds from raw materials, such as plants, flowers, and woods, using methods like distillation, solvent extraction, expression, sieving, or enfleurage. The type of extraction method chosen depends on the specific raw material and the desired outcome. For example, organic solvent extraction is commonly used in the perfume industry to extract aromatics from woody and fibrous plant materials, as well as all aromatics from animal sources. On the other hand, distillation is a traditional technique used to obtain aromatic compounds from plants like orange blossoms and roses.

Extraction methods

The process of creating perfume involves a manufacturing process known as extraction. This involves gathering natural products such as flowers, roots, and tree bark, and then extracting the oils from them. There are several methods for doing this, some of which are better suited to certain plants than others.

Solvent Extraction

This method involves placing plants into a rotating drum and coating them with a solvent such as benzene or petroleum. The solvent dissolves the plants, leaving behind a waxy substance containing the oils. The substance is then dissolved in ethyl alcohol, which is burned off, resulting in perfume oil.

Enfleurage

Enfleurage is one of the oldest methods of extraction. It involves pressing flowers such as jasmine or tuberose blooms into glass sheets coated with fat. This process is repeated for several days to capture the scent of the flowers. The oils are then captured by dissolving the fat in an alcoholic solvent.

Distillation

Distillation is a key technique used to acquire aroma compounds from plants and flowers. Botanical materials are heated, causing their essential oils to evaporate with the steam. The compounds are then collected through the condensation of the distilled vapour. Distillation is commonly used for extracting oils from roses, orange blossoms, geraniums, and other ingredients.

Supercritical Fluid Extraction

Supercritical fluids, such as CO2, are used as a solvent to extract essential oils from plants. When CO2 is in its supercritical state (between liquid and gas), it penetrates through the plant material to extract the volatile oils. This method is more expensive than traditional distillation but allows for a more natural scent and can be used on ingredients that cannot be extracted through traditional methods.

Fractional Distillation

It is possible to extract specific molecules from natural ingredients through fractional distillation. This process can result in some perfume molecules being classified as 'natural' or even organically certified if the ingredients they are extracted from are certified as such.

Headspace

Headspace is a method that uses a domed container to form an airtight seal around an object. The odour compounds are then analysed and sent to a lab, where the scent can be recreated using synthetic molecules. This method is often used on flowers or materials that are difficult to extract using traditional methods.

DIY cologne

Creating your own cologne can be a rewarding experience, allowing you to express your creativity and develop a unique scent that suits your taste. Here is a comprehensive guide to making your own cologne at home:

Understanding Cologne and its Ingredients:

Cologne is typically associated with masculine scents due to its lower concentration of essential oils, usually around 2-5%. However, it can also be crafted with feminine fragrances, resulting in a milder perfume. The scent of cologne generally lasts for about two hours, making it suitable for everyday use.

The primary ingredients required for making cologne are alcohol, essential oils (top, middle, and base notes), water, and glycerin. Alcohol, such as perfumer's alcohol or witch hazel, is used to dilute the essential oils and make the cologne suitable for skin application. Glycerin, similar to vegetable oil, helps to prolong the fragrance and ensure it adheres to the skin.

Step-by-Step Guide to Making Your Own Cologne:

Step One: Understand the Fragrance Scale:

When blending your cologne, it is crucial to grasp the concept of fragrance notes. Top notes are the initial scents you perceive, followed by middle notes, and finally, the base notes form the foundation of the fragrance. The recommended ratio for a well-balanced cologne is 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. However, you may experiment with different ratios to create your desired scent profile.

Step Two: Choose Your Essential Oils:

Selecting essential oils can be daunting due to the vast array of options. Popular choices for base notes include woody scents like cedarwood, sandalwood, tonka bean, and vanilla. For middle notes, consider floral fragrances such as jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, geranium, or lotus flower. Top notes can include refreshing scents like lavender, neroli, magnolia, or mandarin.

Step Three: Blend the Essential Oils:

This is where you can get creative and experiment with different combinations. Start by adding a few drops of essential oils one by one, mixing as you go. Remember that not all notes complement each other, so it may take some trial and error. Once you have a blend you like, add two ounces of alcohol.

Step Four: Allow the Fragrance to Mature:

Give your cologne time to develop by letting it sit for at least 48 hours. Some prefer to refrigerate it for two weeks to enhance the blending process. After this period, shake the mixture to ensure the molecules are well combined.

Step Five: Dilute the Fragrance:

In a spray bottle, add two tablespoons of distilled water and five drops of glycerin. Carefully swirl in your bespoke fragrance mixture. And that's it—you've crafted your signature cologne!

Additional Tips:

Creating a unique fragrance can be challenging, and replicating popular perfumes at home may be complex. However, you can use online databases like Fragrantica to identify the main notes in your favourite fragrances and experiment with similar ingredients. Remember that fragrance creation is an art, and it may take time and patience to perfect your signature scent. Enjoy the process of discovery and embrace the satisfaction of crafting a cologne that truly reflects your aesthetic.

Removing cologne from clothes

There are several methods to remove cologne from clothes. Here is a comprehensive guide on how to do it:

Firstly, it is important to act quickly and wash the clothes shortly after they have been saturated with cologne. The longer you wait, the more time the cologne has to settle into the fabric, making it harder to remove.

Method 1: Wash with Vinegar

Vinegar is an effective natural cleaner and deodorizer. To use this method, follow these steps:

• Ensure the garment is dry. Moisture on the fabric can disrupt the reaction when vinegar is applied.
• Place the garment in the washing machine and add 240 mL of vinegar instead of soap or detergent. There is no need to separate the piece of clothing from the rest of the load.
• Wash the load as normal and add dryer sheets during the drying cycle to add a desired scent.
• Ensure the clothes are completely dry before removing them from the dryer, as damp clothes can develop musty smells.

Method 2: Hang Clothes Outside

Hanging your clothes outside is a simple and natural way to remove cologne. The wind and sunlight can help wash away the scent. Keep in mind that this method may take longer, and morning dew can leave your clothes wet.

Method 3: Use Castile Soap and Wash by Hand

Castile soap is an eco-friendly and versatile detergent that can effectively remove scents. Here's how to use it:

• Ensure your clothes are dry before washing.
• Add 4-5 drops of Castile soap to a bucket of warm water.
• Wash and rinse the clothes by hand in the warm water. Let the clothes soak for about an hour, then swish them around and wash again.
• Leave the clothes outside to dry in the sun for at least 24 hours. The heat and sunlight will further activate the Castile soap's effect.

Method 4: Use Laundry Detergent and Booster

If the above methods don't work, you can try washing your clothes with laundry detergent and a booster:

• Add 1/2 cup of detergent, booster, and/or baking soda.
• Wash the clothes in warm water to release the detergent's full power.
• Dry the clothes outside in the sun if possible. The combination of heat and sunlight will help lock out the undesired scent.

Method 5: Wash with Lemon Juice and Water

Lemon juice is a natural solution that can remove cologne due to its acidity. Here's how to use it:

• Create a 1:1 solution of lemon juice and water in a spray bottle. For example, mix 100 mL of lemon juice with 100 mL of water.
• Spray the solution onto the piece of clothing, focusing on the areas with the strongest scent.
• Use a soft-bristled brush to scrub the areas, distributing the lemon scent evenly throughout the garment.
• Let the garment dry outside, preferably in the sun. Note: This method is only recommended for dark or old clothes, as lemon juice can lighten the colour of lighter fabrics.

Additional Tips:

• Soaking the clothes before washing can also help remove scents. Soak the clothing in warm water with one cup of baking soda overnight or for a few days.
• After soaking or washing, dry the clothes in the sun if possible. Sunlight will help remove odours.
• If you need to use a clothes dryer, use a low-temperature setting like the permanent press option. High temperatures can cause odour molecules to adhere more deeply to the fabric.
• If you don't have time to wash the clothes, you can place them in a sealed container with baking soda, which will absorb the odours.

Main notes of cologne

The main notes of cologne are typically classified into three categories: top notes, heart or middle notes, and base notes. Each note has a specific role in the fragrance's development and longevity, with the carefully selected blend of ingredients forming the perfume accord, or the basic character of a fragrance.

Top notes, sometimes referred to as head notes, are the initial scents that you smell when you first spray or apply cologne. They are usually light and volatile, lasting only for the first five to fifteen minutes. Examples of top notes include citrus scents like lemon, orange, and bergamot, as well as light floral scents like lavender and rose.

Heart notes, or middle notes, are the scents that emerge as the top notes start to fade. They make up a significant proportion of the total scent, lasting longer than top notes, and serve as a buffer for the base notes. Heart notes include full-bodied, aromatic floral oils like jasmine, geranium, neroli, and ylang-ylang, as well as spices like cinnamon, pepper, and cardamom.

Base notes are the longest-lasting notes in a cologne, kicking in about 30 minutes after application and lasting for six hours or more. They are rich, heavy, and long-lasting, providing depth and warmth to the fragrance. Examples of base notes include woody scents like sandalwood and cedarwood, as well as musk, vanilla, and patchouli.

The different types of notes in cologne can be further categorised into fragrance families, such as:

• Citrus: Fresh and uplifting notes often found in top notes, including lemon, orange, and bergamot.
• Floral: Feminine and romantic notes often found in middle notes, such as rose, jasmine, and lily.
• Oriental: Rich and exotic notes often found in base notes, including amber, musk, and vanilla.
• Woody: Warm and earthy notes often found in base notes, like sandalwood and cedarwood, and patchouli.

History of cologne extraction

The history of cologne extraction dates back thousands of years, with ancient civilisations such as the Greeks, Romans, Persians, Arabs and Indus Valley Civilisation using various extraction methods to create perfumes. The world's first recorded chemist is believed to be a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker from Babylonian Mesopotamia around 1200 BCE. She developed methods for scent extraction, including the groundbreaking use of solvents, which laid the foundation for future perfume-making.

The ancient Greeks and Romans extracted perfumes from diverse sources such as flowers, woods, seeds, roots, saps and gums. Pliny the Elder, in his "Naturalis Historia", described the basic ingredients and methods of perfume-making. The Arabic philosopher al-Kindi wrote a book on perfumes, including over a hundred recipes and methods for perfume-making.

The Persians are credited with the invention of distillation, which revolutionised the use of alcohol as a perfume carrier instead of oil. This technology greatly influenced Western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.

During the Islamic Golden Age, Iranians perfected the extraction of fragrances through steam distillation and introduced new raw materials. They cultivated a wide array of flowers and herbs, including roses and jasmine, which became key ingredients in perfumery.

In the 13th century, the Hungarians introduced the first modern perfume, made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution, known as Hungary Water.

In the 18th century, Giovanni Maria Farina created the original Eau de Cologne, a spirit-citrus perfume, in the German city of Cologne. Farina's ability to produce a constantly homogeneous fragrance was considered a sensation at the time. The success of Eau de Cologne led to countless businessmen selling their fragrances under the same name.

Today, fragrance extraction is a common technique in the perfume industry, with modern methods such as organic solvent extraction, supercritical fluid extraction and ethanol extraction being used to capture the delicate fragrances of various plants.

Frequently asked questions