Heidi Norton
Creating your own perfume or cologne is a fun way to express your creativity and craft a unique scent. Whether you're a fan of woody, musky, or floral fragrances, the process of making your own fragrance allows you to customize your scent profile. With a few essential oils, a carrier, blotters, glass vials, and droppers, you can create a bespoke fragrance that suits your taste. You can even experiment with different combinations of base, middle, and top notes to find the perfect ratio and create a long-lasting scent. Making your own fragrance is also a more affordable option than purchasing designer perfumes or colognes, which often contain synthetic chemicals. So, whether you're crafting a signature scent for yourself or creating a thoughtful gift, exploring the world of fragrance-making can be a rewarding endeavour.
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What You'll Learn
The history of cologne and perfume
The history of perfume and cologne dates back thousands of years. The earliest examples of perfume usage have been discovered in ancient civilizations like Egypt, the Roman Empire, Mesopotamia, the Middle East, India, and China, and the Persian Empire. In ancient Egypt, perfume was made by distilling natural ingredients with non-scented oils, and popular scents included floral, woody, and fruity fragrances. Egyptians used perfume for hygiene, ceremonies, and as a status symbol, with leaders like Cleopatra and Hatshepsut taking perfume with them to their graves.
The Latin term "per fumum" or "through smoke" is the origin of the word "perfume," and the first known perfumer was a woman named Tapputi, recorded on a Mesopotamian clay tablet from the second millennium BC. The ancient Persians ruled the perfume trade for centuries and invented non-oil-based perfumes.
Cologne, on the other hand, was invented much later, in 1709 in Cologne, Germany. It was created by Italian perfumer Giovanni Maria Farina, who named it Eau de Cologne after his new hometown. It was a lighter fragrance with 2-5% perfume oils in alcohol and water, designed to be a refreshing alternative to the stronger French scents of the time. Eau de Cologne was originally meant to be a unisex fragrance, and it quickly gained popularity across Europe, becoming a status symbol for royalty and nobility.
The success of Eau de Cologne led to the emergence of numerous other businessmen selling fragrances under the same name, taking advantage of the lack of regulation at the time. The term "cologne" has since become a generic term for scented formulations, typically with a lower concentration of perfume oils, and in modern times, it is often associated with perfumes marketed toward men, especially in American English.
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How to apply cologne or perfume
Applying cologne or perfume is an art, and when done right, it can make people swoon. Here is a detailed guide on how to apply cologne or perfume:
Choose the right scent:
Before applying cologne or perfume, it is important to choose the right scent that suits your taste, personality, and the image you want to project. Consider whether you prefer a citrus, fruity, woody, or spicy fragrance. For instance, if you are a fun and bubbly person, you might opt for a fruity fragrance. On the other hand, if you want to project mystery and allure, a deep and woody scent might be more suitable.
Prepare your skin:
Ensure your skin is clean and fresh before applying cologne or perfume. Take a shower, as the warm water will open your pores, making your skin more receptive to the fragrance. You can also moisturize your skin with a lotion or oil to create a smooth and even base for the fragrance, helping it last longer.
Apply sparingly to pulse points:
Pulse points are areas where you can feel your heartbeat, such as your wrists, neck, inner elbows, collarbone, and behind the knees. These areas are ideal for applying cologne or perfume because the heat from your body will help release the scent. Hold the bottle about six inches away from your skin and spray or dab a small amount onto these pulse points. Do not rub the fragrance onto your skin, as this can break down the fragrance molecules and cause the scent to fade faster.
Consider the concentration and longevity:
The concentration level of the fragrance, indicated on the bottle, will determine its longevity. More diluted fragrances are more affordable, while more concentrated fragrances last longer and have a richer scent. Cologne (Eau de Cologne) typically contains 2-4% perfume oil and lasts around two hours. Eau de Toilette contains 5-15% perfume oil and lasts around three hours. Perfume (Eau de Parfum) contains 15-20% perfume oil and can last up to eight hours.
Avoid cuts and open wounds:
If you have any cuts or abrasions on your skin, avoid applying perfume to these areas. The alcohol in the fragrance can irritate broken skin and cause discomfort.
Avoid spraying on clothing:
While some people prefer to spray cologne or perfume on their clothes, it is generally recommended to avoid this. Fragrances may interact with certain fabrics and cause stains or discolouration. Additionally, a scent applied directly to the skin will react with your body chemistry, creating a unique fragrance.
Remember, when it comes to cologne or perfume, less is more. You want to smell pleasant without imposing your fragrance on everyone around you.
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Fragrance styles and concentration levels
Fragrance concentration levels, also known as fragrance strengths, refer to the amount of fragrance oils in a perfume. The concentration level affects the intensity, longevity, projection, overall scent, and price of the perfume. The higher the concentration of oils, the longer the scent will last on your skin, and the higher the price will be.
There are several types of fragrance concentration levels, including:
- Parfum, also known as Perfume Extract, has the highest concentration of fragrance oils, typically ranging from 20% to 30%, with some sources stating up to 40%. It is known for its long-lasting scent and is usually the most expensive type of perfume.
- Extrait de Parfum, or simply Extrait, is similar to Parfum in terms of fragrance concentration, ranging from 15% to 25%. It is crafted using the same essential oils and aromatic compounds as Parfum and provides a luxurious and intimate scent experience.
- Eau de Parfum (EDP) typically has a concentration of 15% to 20% fragrance oils. It is one of the most popular fragrance concentrations and is known for its versatility, offering scents suitable for both cold and warm weather.
- Eau de Toilette (EDT) usually contains 5% to 15% fragrance oils. It is another popular fragrance concentration, often worn during the day. However, it typically doesn't last as long on the skin as EDP, with a longevity of around 2 to 4 hours.
- Eau de Cologne (EDC) has a lower concentration of fragrance oils, typically around 2% to 5%. It is one of the oldest forms of perfume and is considered a traditional men's fragrance, although women's versions are also available. EDC is relatively inexpensive and has a maximum longevity of about two hours.
- Eau Fraiche contains a low percentage of fragrance oils, typically around 1% to 3%. It is important to note that fragrance concentrations can vary, and some sources mention Eau Fraiche fragrances with higher concentrations of up to 40%.
In addition to these main types, there are also intense variations of fragrances that have gained popularity. These intense versions feature higher concentrations of aromatic compounds, resulting in richer and longer-lasting scents.
It is worth noting that the longevity of a fragrance can be influenced by various factors, including an individual's skin type, hormones, weather conditions, and level of activity. Additionally, different fragrance oils have varying odour intensities, which can impact the overall performance of the perfume.
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Gender in perfumery
The concept of gender in perfumery is a construct that has evolved over time, influenced by cultural norms, marketing strategies, and societal changes. While modern perfumery often associates certain scents with gender, this was not always the case.
Historically, the use of perfume was not gendered. In ancient times, perfumes were a luxury item used by royalty and the elite to convey power and wealth, regardless of gender. For example, Louis XIV, a male ruler, was known to favour orange blossom fragrance. During the Middle Ages, natural perfumes were worn by all genders of the upper class to mask body odour and feign hygiene. It was only from the 19th century onwards that gendered scent stereotypes emerged in Europe. This coincided with a period of economic growth and the rise of the middle class, which also saw a shift towards more distinct gender roles.
The perfume industry recognised the marketing potential of these emerging gender norms. With modern manufacturing processes, perfumes could be produced faster and on a larger scale, making them accessible to a wider range of consumers beyond the elite. Companies capitalised on the social changes by arbitrarily classifying their products according to gender stereotypes. Delicate floral fragrances were packaged in 'feminine' bottles and marketed with advertisements depicting the female ideal, while woody and leathery notes were associated with masculinity. This strategy reinforced social norms about how individuals should look, dress, act, and smell, creating a positive feedback loop for revenue.
However, in recent times, there has been a pushback against these gender stereotypes in perfumery. The modern generation of consumers, particularly the younger generation, is challenging traditional gender norms and seeking to explore beyond the binary of masculine and feminine. The rise of LGBTQ+ representation and acceptance has contributed to the growing trend of gender fluidity in society, which is reflected in the products consumers choose. Innovators in the perfume industry are recognising this shift and creating fragrances that cater to a broader spectrum of gender identities.
The introduction of "unisex" perfumes, such as Calvin Klein's CK One in 1994, marked a deliberate attempt to break gender roles in perfumery or a clever commercial move to sense the changing zeitgeist. These unisex fragrances often feature a combination of traditional gendered scent notes with surprising key notes or neutral notes that don't align with a specific gender. Consumers are embracing these genderless fragrances as a form of personal expression beyond binary gender roles, reflecting their individuality and unique personalities.
While the perfume industry has been criticised for perpetuating gender stereotypes, it is important to recognise that scent is subjective and not inherently masculine or feminine. Consumers are encouraged to wear fragrances that they like and feel great about, regardless of their gender identity.
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Raw materials and scent categories
The raw materials used in perfumes are generally classified as natural or synthetic. Natural ingredients have been used since the beginning of perfumery, and synthetic ingredients were introduced in the late 19th century. Synthetic ingredients allow perfumers to create entirely new scents and expand their palettes beyond natural oils and absolutes. Synthetic aromatics are also often used as a neutral background to the middle notes. Synthetic musks, for example, are inexpensive and have a pleasant smell, so they are often employed in large quantities to cover the unpleasant scent of laundry detergents and many personal cleaning products.
Natural raw materials include flowers, fruits, woods, spices, and animal-based materials. Flowers are a key ingredient in perfumes, with different categories of flowers evoking different emotions. Spring flowers, for example, are composed of green and vegetal notes, while white flowers like jasmine, tuberose, and orange blossom are called sensual or narcotic flowers. Solar flowers, such as ylang-ylang, evoke tropical islands. Fruits are also commonly used in perfumes, and they can be used naturally or processed by synthesis. Nuts are another category of natural raw materials, with popular examples including almond, peanuts, and hazelnuts.
Woods are part of the vegetable raw materials used in perfumes, and they can include the bark of trees, moss, or resin. Balms and resins are often used in oriental or amber fragrances, complementing vanilla and adding mystery to the scent. Animal-based raw materials used in perfumery in the past include animal musk, civet, castoreum, ambergris, and hyraceum. However, due to ethical concerns, animal notes are now usually substituted with synthetic variants. Ambergris, a rare and expensive ingredient secreted by sperm whales, is an exception as it is naturally expelled by the animal and is cruelty-free.
Synthetic raw materials can be created through organic synthesis and purified, while natural raw materials require various methods to extract aromatics, such as steam distillation, cold press, alcohol extraction, or supercritical CO2 extraction. Synthetic ingredients can also be used to recreate the scent of popular beverages, such as champagne or Coca-Cola, or to create ""fantasy notes" that recall the ambience of scents with animal inferences, such as milk, caviar, or leather.
In terms of scent categories, the Comité Français du Parfum (CFP) classifies scents and notes into six families of perfume, or main accords. The four main types are warm, woody, oriental, and fresh, with each effect brought out by different combinations of fragrances. Fresh fragrances typically include citrus, water, and green notes, while warm fragrances tend to use more florals and juicy fruit scents. Oriental fragrances are warm, sweet, and sometimes spicy, often made with notes like cardamom, cinnamon, vanilla, jasmine, and orange blossom. Woody fragrances are warm and captivating, often using wood-based smells like cedarwood, sandalwood, and amber.
Within these main families, there are also subcategories. For example, the floral family includes single floral fragrances dominated by the scent of a particular flower, floral bouquet fragrances that combine several flower scents, and floral oriental fragrances that blend floral notes with materials of Eastern origin. The citrus family, the oldest fragrance family, includes lightweight eau de colognes. The spicy family adds warmth, body, and character to a fragrance, while the sweet family is popular in gourmand fragrances.
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Frequently asked questions
In contemporary American English, "cologne" is a generic term for perfumes marketed toward men. Cologne is a more diluted version of perfume with 2-5% concentration.
The original Eau de Cologne is a spirit-citrus perfume launched in Cologne, Germany, in 1709 by Giovanni Maria Farina.
Yes, cologne can be worn by men or women. However, in American English, it usually refers to perfumes marketed toward men.
Yes, perfume can be worn by anyone. However, in American English, it usually refers to perfumes marketed toward women.
