Using Fragrance Oils In Soap: Safe Or Not?

Adding fragrance to your soap can be a fun way to elevate your soap-making skills and create a product that is truly yours. But before you get started, it's important to understand the difference between essential oils and fragrance oils, as well as the pros and cons of each. Essential oils are derived from natural sources such as herbs, flowers, and plants, while fragrance oils are synthetic, created with a mix of aroma chemicals and natural ingredients. Both options have their own advantages and disadvantages, so it's worth experimenting with both to see which one you prefer.

Pros and cons of essential oils vs fragrance oils

Using fragrance oil in soap is a safe option, and it is, in fact, used in most soaps. However, there are pros and cons to using fragrance oil over essential oils, and vice versa.

Fragrance oils are synthetically produced in a laboratory and can contain many different components. This does not mean they are low quality, but it is important to ensure that the fragrance oils are suitable for soap-making and are safe to use.

Pros of fragrance oils:

• They are available in a wide range of fragrances, so no knowledge of note blending is required.
• They can be used to create scents that are impossible to achieve with essential oils, such as cappuccino or strawberry.
• They are more sustainable and do not require large quantities of plant materials to produce.
• They are less expensive than essential oils.
• They are more stable and have a longer-lasting scent.

Cons of fragrance oils:

• They may cause discolouration in the soap. For example, vanilla fragrance oil will turn brown.
• They can change colour or morph between colours during saponification and curing.
• Some fragrance oils can cause the soap batter to seize.
• They are not natural, which may limit their market appeal.

Essential oils, on the other hand, are naturally derived, highly concentrated, and obtained from plants.

Pros of essential oils:

• They are naturally derived, plant-based, and vegan.
• They allow for experimentation with different blends to create unique scents.
• They are less likely to cause acceleration of trace.
• They are unlikely to seize the batter.
• They have secondary benefits beyond scent, such as anti-inflammatory qualities.

Cons of essential oils:

• They are not as sustainable as large quantities of plant matter are required to create each drop.
• There are limitations to the variety of scents that can be created.
• Not all essential oil fragrances 'stick' well in handmade soap.
• The scent is unlikely to last as long or be as intense as fragrance oils.
• They are more expensive than fragrance oils.
• Essential oils are volatile and should be handled with care.

In conclusion, both options have their advantages and disadvantages, and it is up to the soap maker to decide which type of oil to use based on their preferences, the expectations of their target market, costs, and ecological considerations.

How to stop scent fading

To stop scent fading in your soap, you can try a few different methods. Firstly, you can use a higher dosage of fragrance or essential oil. For a strong scent, you can add around 0.7 to 0.8 ounces of fragrance or essential oil per pound of cold process soap. This number will vary depending on the oil you choose, so be sure to check the recommended usage rates.

Another method is to use a process called "anchoring". This involves pairing lighter scents with deeper, earthier, or more complex scents to "anchor" them in the soap. For example, you can use amber fragrance oil, ginger patchouli fragrance oil, or sandalwood fragrance oil to anchor lighter scents.

Additionally, some soap makers use kaolin clay or cornstarch to help with scent retention. These substances are absorbent and can help to hold onto the fragrance or essential oil, making it last longer. Kaolin clay also adds a nice slip and subtle colour to the soap.

Finally, be sure to cure your soap in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. You can also try dipping a cotton ball or balled-up paper towel in the fragrance oil and placing it by the soap while it cures. This is thought to help the bars absorb some of the scent as they cure.

Anchoring essential oils

When creating essential oil blends, it is important to use a combination of middle and base notes to anchor flighty top notes. Middle notes are slightly heavier and tend to linger longer than top notes, while base notes have long-lasting aromas that will stick around on the skin. Examples of essential oils with middle and base notes include lavender, rosemary, patchouli, anise, basil, cedarwood, cinnamon, clove, oakmoss, Peru balsam, and vetiver.

It is also recommended to go back to basics when experiencing issues with scent fading. This includes evaluating the base oils, lye solution strength, colourants, and fragrances used. Using natural or non-deodorized butters such as shea butter and cocoa butter can heavily affect the fragrance in cold-process soap. Additionally, some essential oils, such as neem oil, have strong scents of their own that should be considered when creating blends.

Using essential oils safely

• Check the IFRA (International Fragrance Association) document for the specific essential oil you plan to use. This document provides guidelines on the maximum safe amount of essential oil to use in your soap recipe. The IFRA standards help ensure that your soap is safe for use and avoid potential skin irritation.
• Understand the notes of essential oils. Essential oils are typically classified as top notes, middle notes, or base notes. Top notes are light and evaporate quickly, while base notes are heavier and linger longer. To create a well-rounded scent, blend essential oils with middle and base notes to anchor the lighter top notes.
• Be mindful of the quality of essential oils. Purchase from reputable suppliers who provide pure and high-quality essential oils. Beware of synthetic fragrances or diluted oils.
• Store essential oils properly. Essential oils should be stored in dark-coloured glass containers to avoid UV ray damage and chemical reactions with plastics.
• Use essential oils in the recommended dilution ratios. Adding too much essential oil can irritate the skin. The general guideline is to use 30-35 grams of essential oil per 1 kilogram of base oils. However, always refer to the specific essential oil's guidelines for safe usage rates.
• Be cautious when blending essential oils. Some essential oils may not blend well together, and certain combinations may cause adverse reactions. It is important to research the compatibility of the essential oils you plan to use.
• Avoid using essential oils near open flames. Essential oils have a flashpoint, which is the temperature at which their vapour can ignite. Exercise caution when heating essential oils or using them near heat sources.
• Consult a cosmetic assessor or regulatory body for your region. They can provide guidance on the safe usage of essential oils in cosmetic products and help ensure your soap recipes comply with local regulations.

Creating complex scents

Firstly, you need to understand the different types of notes in a fragrance: top, middle, and base. Top notes are the first scents you smell, but they are fleeting. Middle notes are the scents you notice after a while; they linger a little longer. Base notes are the longest-lasting scents in a blend. Ideally, your final fragrance will include at least one of each note.

When creating a complex scent, you can start by blending essential oils, as these are the basic components used to build more complex blends. However, you can also experiment with any combination of essential or fragrance oils.

• Gather your assortment of essential or fragrance oils, small jars with airtight lids, clean cotton swabs, and a notebook to record your results.
• Examine the individual components and make notes on how long-lasting the scent is. This will help you determine the type of note it is.
• Open the oils and the small glass jar. You may get a preview of your scent blend by having the bottles open at the same time.
• Dip the tip of a clean cotton swab into one of the oils. Squeeze any excess oil back into the bottle. Place the swab into the glass jar. Repeat this process for each scent you want to add to the blend, ensuring equal amounts of oil on each swab.
• Make sure to write down each oil you include in the blend.
• Walk away from the jar and wait a few minutes. Then, gently sniff the air above the jar to get the early-stage scent blend. Take notes on your thoughts. Is one oil too overpowering? Do two of them seem too similar?
• Put the lid on the jar and leave it in a cool, dark place for a few hours. Then, smell the blend again. It should have mixed and "matured". Take more notes on your thoughts.
• Repeat the previous step, leaving the jar in the cool, dark place for about 48 hours until the scent blend has fully matured.
• Make corrections to your blend. For example, try two parts of oil A and one part of oil B, or add oil D to your blend of A, B, and C.
• To get a more accurate reading of the scents, you can sniff coffee beans or ground coffee between tests to cleanse your scent receptors.
• Once you are happy with your scent blend, test it in a small batch of soap or candle. Take notes on how it works so you know what to change for next time.

Frequently asked questions