The Ultimate Guide To Buying Perfumes

Buying perfume can be a tricky business, especially if you're shopping online and can't smell the scent first. But there are a few things you can do to make sure you end up with a fragrance you love. Firstly, it's important to understand the different types of fragrances available. These include perfume, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, and eau de cologne, each with a different concentration of fragrance oils, which affects how long the scent will last. You should also consider the fragrance family, which refers to the ingredients inside the scent. There are four main families: floral, woody, aromatic, and fresh, each with its own distinctive characteristics and notes. Another thing to keep in mind is the occasion for which you're buying the perfume. Are you looking for a daily fragrance or something for special occasions? The season can also play a role in your decision-making; for example, in summer, you might want to avoid floral or musky scents and opt for something refreshing and citrusy instead. Finally, don't be afraid to mix fragrances or try out samples before committing to a full-sized bottle.

Understand fragrance families

Fragrance families are a classification system used by the perfume industry to categorise different scents into olfactory groups based on their dominant characteristics. They help us understand what we like in a scent and make informed decisions when choosing perfumes.

There are four to eight main fragrance families, each with distinctive characteristics:

Woody

The woody family includes scents that are warm, opulent, and rich, mixing incense-like fragrances like sandalwood and patchouli with drier notes like cedar. Woody fragrances can be further divided into subfamilies such as Woods, Mossy Woods, and Dry Woods. Common notes include patchouli, vetiver, and sandalwood. Woody fragrances are often associated with masculinity but are increasingly used in female and unisex fragrances.

Floral

The floral family is one of the most common and well-known families. Floral scents can range from delicate and powdery to sharp, sweet, and edible. This family includes fragrances with notes of flowers such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, and lily of the valley. Subfamilies include Fruity, Floral, and Soft Floral. Floral fragrances are often associated with femininity but are also increasingly used in men's fragrances.

Amber (previously known as Oriental)

The amber family includes herbs, spices, and dry powdery resin notes. Amber scents can be described as sensual, warm, and exotic. Common notes include vanilla, myrrh, and anise. Subfamilies include Soft Amber, Amber, and Woody Amber. Amber fragrances are equally popular among men and women.

Fresh

The fresh family is defined by zingy, aromatic compositions backed with underlying woody notes. Fresh fragrances are often characterised as bright, herby, citrusy, clean, and oceanic. Subfamilies include Aromatic, Citrus, Green, and Water. Common notes include citrus, white flowers, and bergamot. The fresh family is the most crowd-pleasing and is equally appealing to both men and women.

Citrus

The citrus family is modern, refreshing, and packed with playfulness. It includes fragrances with notes of lemon, orange, neroli, bergamot, grapefruit, and mandarin. Citrus fragrances are often light and refreshing, with a composition that can sometimes border on fruity.

Fruity

The fruity family includes fragrances with notes of sweet, juicy fruits such as oranges, limes, melons, and apples. Fruity fragrances can be further divided into subfamilies such as Fruity, Fruity Gourmand, and Fruity Floral. They are often used to evoke a feeling of summer and can make for a great daytime scent.

Chypre

The Chypre family is a sophisticated blend of woody, mossy, and floral accords. It gets its name from the island of Cyprus, as the notes are based on the aromatic plants that grow there. Common notes include bergamot, oak moss, and patchouli.

Learn the difference between cologne and perfume

When it comes to buying perfumes, it's important to learn the difference between cologne and perfume. The main distinction lies in the concentration of fragrance oils in each product. Perfume has a higher concentration, typically ranging from 15 to 20% or even up to 40% in some cases, while cologne has a lighter concentration, usually between 2 and 8%. This means that perfumes will not only last longer but also tend to be more expensive.

The difference in concentration results in varying durations of scent. Perfumes, with their higher concentration, can last up to 24 hours on the skin. On the other hand, colognes, being more diluted, generally fade much faster and may only last for a couple of hours, depending on the person's body chemistry and environmental conditions.

Another aspect that sets cologne apart is its scent profile. Typically, colognes lean towards fresher, citrusy, or aquatic notes such as orange blossom or ocean breeze, making them ideal for warmer months when heavier fragrances might feel overwhelming. In contrast, perfumes can offer a wider range of scents, including floral, fruity, or earthy notes.

While cologne is often associated with men's fragrances and perfume with women's, this distinction is not inherent to the products themselves but rather a result of marketing and societal conventions. In reality, anyone can wear any type of fragrance they prefer, and many scents are perfectly unisex.

Know your budget

Knowing your budget is an important step in the perfume-buying process. Perfumes come in many different variants and prices can vary dramatically depending on the variant. Knowing your budget beforehand will save you the frustration of going over budget and having to return a perfume you liked.

When deciding on a budget, it's important to understand the difference between perfume and cologne. Perfume has a higher concentration of fragrance oils and is therefore more expensive, whereas cologne has a lighter concentration and is less expensive. If you are looking for something that will last longer, go for a perfume, but if you want something lighter that doesn't need to last as long, opt for a cologne.

Another factor to consider when creating your budget is the concentration of the perfume. The concentration refers to the percentage of oil in the solution and this can vary from perfume to perfume. A higher concentration will result in a stronger scent and longer-lasting fragrance. If you are looking for a perfume that will last all day, look for one with a higher concentration of oils. However, keep in mind that a higher concentration also means a higher price tag.

In addition to the type and concentration of the perfume, the brand and size of the bottle will also impact the price. Well-known brands will usually be more expensive, so if you are looking for a more affordable option, you may want to consider a lesser-known brand or a smaller bottle.

Finally, don't forget to factor in any additional costs such as shipping or taxes. These can add up quickly and eat into your budget, so it's important to be aware of them from the start.

By taking the time to consider your budget and understand the factors that impact the price of a perfume, you can make a more informed decision and find a scent that fits both your taste and your wallet.

Learn the language of perfume

Perfumes are a language everyone understands but few people can speak. This unique language is instinctive, natural, and inherited, allowing us to express feelings, memories, and emotions.

Notes

Notes refer to the ingredients used in a perfume. These are the aromatic impressions or building blocks of a composition that may or may not be the result of aromachemicals or natural ingredients. Notes can be further broken down into top, heart, or base notes. Top notes are the volatile molecules you smell immediately, designed to pull you in and make a good first impression. Heart or middle notes are the most important part of a fragrance, determining its main olfactive profile. Base notes, or drydowns, are the scents that appear several hours after application and last the longest.

Accord

An accord is a blend of different perfume notes.

Olfaction

Olfaction refers to the act of smelling.

Olfactory

Olfactory relates to the sense of smell or how a perfume is constructed.

Jus or Juice

Jus or juice is a nickname for the liquid in a perfume bottle.

Flanker

A flanker is a new version of an existing perfume, often with similar notes, packaging, or themes.

Absolute

An absolute is a concentrated, highly aromatic oil extract, similar to an essential oil.

Sillage

Sillage is a French word originally used to describe the trace left by a boat in the water. In perfumery, it describes the scented trail lingering in the air behind a perfume wearer.

Chypre

A chypre is a category of perfumes composed of citrus top notes.

Woody

A woody aroma is extracted from trees, resin, moss, bark, and roots, providing a deep, earthy character that adds richness and warmth to a fragrance.

Oud

Oud is a dark fragrant wood from aquilaria trees, often used in the production of incense and perfume, especially in the Middle East.

Cuir

Cuir is the French word for leather, used to describe sensual, smokey scents with leather accords.

Tonality

Tonality refers to the dominant note or theme of a fragrance.

Aldehydes

Aldehydes are organic compounds used to add an uplifting sparkle and airiness to perfumes or heighten their projection.

Gourmand

Gourmand scents are made up of smooth, sweet notes that smell 'good enough to eat', such as honey, vanilla, and almond.

Layering

Layering involves applying multiple scents to create a long-lasting, unique aroma, either by using different perfumes or layering with body and skincare products.

Try before you buy

Trying a perfume before buying it is a crucial step in the perfume-buying process. It is an extension of your personality and a form of self-expression, so it's not a decision to be rushed. Here are some tips to ensure you try before you buy:

Sample It

Perfume samples are a great way to try a fragrance before committing to a full-sized bottle. Websites such as Tryasample offer a curated collection of perfume samples from various designer brands. You can also try asking for samples at a perfume counter or beauty store. Sephora, for example, offers small samples of any of their perfumes. Some brands also offer sample sets of their entire collection, which can be a great way to explore different fragrances.

Read Reviews

Reading reviews from real people can give you a good idea of what to expect from a fragrance. Single-note fragrances, such as those offered by Solinotes, have reviews that essentially describe specific fragrance notes. Reading these can help you understand how a particular note might smell and the emotion it conveys.

Understand the Notes

Fragrances are made up of top, middle, and base notes, which all play a role in how a perfume smells. Top notes are the most volatile, giving you that first impression, but they fade quickly. Base notes are what give a fragrance its longevity, while middle notes are the most important. They don't fade as quickly as top notes but are still noticeable, and they are what you smell the strongest for the longest time. Understanding the placement of each note in the olfactive pyramid can help you predict how a fragrance will smell over time.

Know the Fragrance Families

Familiarise yourself with the different fragrance families and subfamilies. The main families are oriental, floral, fresh, and woody, each with distinct characteristics. For example, a fresh fragrance will have citrus and aquatic notes, while a woody fragrance will contain cedarwood, musk, and oak moss. Knowing the fragrance family can help you narrow down the options and increase the chances of finding a scent you like.

Some retailers, like The Perfume Shop, offer 'Try Me' and 'Try More' services. With 'Try More', you can select a few samples to try before committing to a full-sized product. The 'Try Me' service allows you to add a small sample of a particular scent to your order when you buy the full-sized bottle. That way, you can test the fragrance before opening the full-size bottle. If you don't like it, you can simply return the unopened bottle for a refund.

Skin Test

It's important to test a fragrance on your skin, as skin chemistry can affect how a perfume smells. A scent that smells wonderful on one person might not work on another due to differences in body chemistry, heat, and the volatility of the chemicals. Therefore, it's crucial to wear the perfume for a while to see how it evolves on your skin throughout the day.

Give It Time

When testing a perfume, it's essential to give it time to develop. Avoid making a rushed decision based on the initial impression of the top notes. Instead, wait at least thirty minutes to an hour to see how the fragrance dries down and settles on your skin.

Compare and Contrast

When testing multiple perfumes, keep things fresh by sniffing something zesty and light, like a cologne, in between testing gourmand or heavier fragrances. This will help sharpen your senses and identify particular notes through comparison.

Practice Proper Sampling Techniques

When sampling a perfume, hold the paper or your wrist a few inches away from your nose. Wave the paper towards your nose to allow the scent to mix with the air and open up. Breathe normally, as trying to breathe deeply or pulling the smell through your nose won't give you an accurate representation of the fragrance.

Consider Roll-ons

If you're unsure about committing to a full-size bottle, consider buying a roll-on instead. They are ideal for travel, cost less, and are a great way to test a fragrance before investing in a larger size.

Remember, the key to finding the right perfume is to take your time, educate yourself about the different notes and families, and test the fragrances on your skin to ensure you find a scent that truly suits you.

Frequently asked questions