Seamus Hammond
China and Japan have distinct cultural attitudes and markets for fragrances and perfumes. In China, there is a perception that perfume is feminine, which has hindered the development of a market for men's fragrances. During Mao's Cultural Revolution, the use of perfume was even made illegal. In Japan, there is a similar perception of perfume as feminine, and fragrance is generally viewed as something to be cultivated in private rather than worn in public. Japanese consumers are increasingly turning to scented fabric softeners as a replacement for perfume.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Cultural perception of perfume | China: Perfume is not seen as manly; Japan: Perfume is worn in privacy, not in public |
| History of perfume | Mao made perfumes illegal during his rule |
| Body odor | Japanese and East Asians have less body odor due to fewer apocrine sweat glands |
| Market size | China: 1% of the population uses perfume; US and UK: 60% of the population uses perfume |
| Market leader | Chanel |
| Popular brands | Guerlain, Armani, L'Artisan, Kilian, Tom Ford |
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What You'll Learn
Chinese perfume market and its cultural attitudes
China's perfume market is a growing industry, with a size of USD 6,527.70 million in 2024, projected to reach USD 9,394.37 million by 2033. The market is dominated by international brands such as Chanel, Dior, Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, and L'Oréal China, which held the top five positions in terms of market share in 2012. However, local brands are also gaining traction by integrating traditional Chinese elements into their offerings and leveraging social media platforms like Xiaohongshu and Douyin to reach wider audiences.
Historically, China did not have a longstanding perfume culture, and the use of perfume was even made illegal during Mao's Cultural Revolution. This, combined with different attitudes and perceptions towards scent, has influenced the development of the Chinese perfume market. Fragrance is often associated with femininity, and there is a perception that men should not use perfume. Additionally, perfume is considered a luxury item in China, with consumers associating it with status and an expression of personal style. The increasing disposable income and evolving attitudes towards luxury among Chinese consumers are driving the growth of the market, with more people willing to spend on high-end and luxury perfumes.
Cultural authenticity is also playing a role in the Chinese perfume market, with consumers seeking out local brands that incorporate traditional Chinese themes into their fragrances and packaging. Social media platforms are helping to promote these niche brands, and companies are using new-age technologies to enhance the retail experience and build stronger relationships with their customers. For example, Yves Saint Laurent launched a neuro-connected perfume finder in its stores, offering personalized fragrance recommendations based on emotional reactions.
The Chinese perfume market is expected to continue evolving, driven by factors such as rising disposable income, the growth of the middle class, and the focus on individuality and self-expression. Companies will need to innovate and adapt to the diverse tastes and preferences of contemporary Chinese consumers to succeed in this dynamic market.
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Fragrance history and the role of oud
Oud, also known as agarwood, gets its name from the Arabic "al-oud," which means "wood". It is a powerful and seductive perfume oil with a peculiar origin: it is extracted from the resinous heartwood of the Aquilaria tree, a species of evergreen, when it is infected by a certain type of fungus. The tree is native to Southeast Asia, India, Bangladesh, Thailand, Laos, Burma, and Vietnam.
Oud is one of the oldest fragrance notes in perfumery, with a rich history rooted in ritual, spirituality, and religion. It has been used for centuries for medicinal and spiritual purposes, appearing in some of the oldest texts of mankind, including the Bible. In Buddhist tradition, the most precious string of 108 beads is made of agarwood, and it is burned to aid meditation. Several other religions, including Islam and Buddhism, burn oud as incense during religious ceremonies. In Islamic culture, oud is also used as an essential oil and a personal perfume, with Arabic authors writing recipes for oud-based perfumes in the ninth century CE.
Due to its rarity and intense aroma, oud has become a symbol of luxury and prestige, especially in the Middle East, where it is considered a sacred scent. Its natural origin and traditional extraction methods also appeal to those seeking sustainable fragrance options. The process of creating oud is time-consuming, as the resin must be dried and then aged for several years to allow the fragrance to mature and develop. The resulting scent is rich, complex, and resinous, with warm, woody undertones.
In modern times, oud has gained international popularity, with perfumers experimenting with different blends to showcase its unique aroma. Tom Ford's Oud Wood, designed by Richard Herpin, is credited with blazing the trail for the oud revolution in 2007, and other famous designers such as Giorgio Armani have since launched their own oud fragrances. While the rise of oud has led to some concerns about overconsumption and dilution, it remains a highly sought-after ingredient in the fragrance industry, with a complex and fascinating history that matches its aroma.
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Japanese fragrance in public spaces
There are conflicting opinions on the use of Japanese fragrance in public spaces. Some sources claim that the Japanese fragrance market is small due to a lower tendency to develop body odour, making perfume unnecessary for concealment. This results in a cultural ambivalence towards fragrance, with some Japanese people avoiding it altogether. Additionally, the use of strong fragrances in public spaces like trains is discouraged due to potential fragrance sensitivity.
However, others argue that Japanese people do use noticeable fragrances, and it is not uncommon to encounter individuals with strong perfume or body odours. The absence of body odour may be due to fewer apocrine sweat glands in East Asians, which reduces their proneness to body odour.
The relationship between Japanese culture and fragrance is complex. While some view perfume as an accessory for important people or women working at night, others appreciate fragrance as an art form, as evidenced by the traditional practice of Kodo. Japanese fragrances may be designed for the Asian market, with unique names, softness, styles, and notes.
Furthermore, Japan has successful fragrances like L'Eau d'Issey by Issey Miyake and Flower by Kenzo, as well as perfume houses like Shiseido and Hanae Mori. These fragrances often have unique characteristics, such as eliminating top notes, conveying concepts like water, and featuring delicate scents like Zen and space rose.
Overall, while Japanese people may have a more complicated relationship with fragrance and tend to avoid strong scents in enclosed public spaces, the use of fragrance in Japan cannot be categorically denied, and there are Japanese perfume brands and shops catering to this market.
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Japanese fabric softeners as perfume replacements
While perfume is a popular fragrance product in many parts of the world, its use is not as widespread in some Asian countries, including China and Japan. During Mao's rule in China, perfumes were even considered illegal, creating a cultural stigma around their use. In Japan, the attitude towards perfume is complicated, with some viewing it as inappropriate in workplaces and public spaces.
This cultural mindset poses a challenge for fragrance companies aiming to succeed in the Japanese market. As a result, some individuals opt for scented fabric softeners as an alternative to traditional perfumes. Japanese fabric softeners are known for their strong and long-lasting fragrances. While some view these scents as "ridiculous," others appreciate their ability to mask body odours and provide a pleasant aroma to laundry.
The use of fabric softeners as a form of perfume is particularly prevalent among those who feel that traditional perfumes do not always complement Asian body odours. By infusing their laundry with softener fragrances, individuals can create a subtle and pleasing aroma that lingers on their clothes rather than applying a strong perfume directly to their skin.
One example of a popular Japanese fabric softener is FURUHA, which fuses the scents of Darjeeling tea and bergamot to create a mature and elegant fragrance designed specifically for men. The soft and subtle nature of this scent makes it ideal for those who are sensitive to strong perfumes but still want to add a pleasant aroma to their laundry.
While fabric softeners may not offer the same intensity or variety of fragrances as traditional perfumes, their use as a replacement for perfume in Japan highlights the unique cultural attitudes towards fragrance and personal style in the country. Individuals can express their personal style and preference for certain aromas through the subtle yet enduring fragrances offered by fabric softeners.
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Chinese men's perfume market
The Chinese men's perfume market is a growing sector. While there is not a long-standing Chinese perfume culture in the same way as there is in France, the men's beauty buying rate in China is increasing, with a projected market size of 21.3 billion yuan by 2025. This growth is partly due to emerging male-oriented brands entering the market, such as Hugo Boss on popular e-commerce apps, and Guerlain, which has targeted men on Weibo with its Kol campaign.
The rise in the men's perfume market can be attributed to the increasing disposable income among younger generations, who are more willing to spend money on luxury items. Additionally, younger Chinese consumers show a preference for customized fragrances, with a willingness to pay more for personalized scent profiles, bottle shapes, and packaging. This presents an opportunity for brands to offer unique and tailored experiences to their customers.
Cultural references and traditional perfume elements also play a role in the Chinese men's perfume market. Brands that incorporate notes such as bamboo, plum flower, and the smell of sweet Osmanthus, or evoke childhood memories with scents like the white rabbit milk candy, can create a sense of nostalgia and cultural connection for local consumers. Armani's Thé Yulong, which combines black tea and green tea extracts reminiscent of a journey through China's Yulong Mountains, is an example of a fragrance that successfully incorporates local inspiration.
Digital marketing is crucial for reaching male consumers in China, with platforms like WeChat, Weibo, Xiaohongshu/RED, and Douyin being essential for promoting fragrance brands. E-commerce platforms like Tmall, Jingdong, Pinduoduo, and Kaola also play a significant role in sales, with Tmall identifying fragrances as a high-priority growth category.
While the Chinese men's perfume market is growing, there are still cultural barriers to overcome. Fragrance is not always seen as a "manly" thing in China, and the word 'scent' is often associated with femininity. However, companies are working to change this perception by using popular male celebrities or actors to promote their fragrances and make them more acceptable to men.
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Frequently asked questions
No, perfumes are not very popular in China. Surveys suggest that only 1% of Chinese people use perfume, compared to 60% in the US or the UK.
There isn't a longstanding perfume culture in China, and perfume was made illegal during Mao's Cultural Revolution. Additionally, the word "perfume" in Chinese has strong feminine connotations, creating a barrier to sales of men's perfumes.
No, perfumes are generally not worn daily in Japan. Japanese people tend to frown upon the idea of using strong fragrances due to their mild body odor. However, scented fabric softeners have become popular in recent years.
Yes, there are some Chinese perfume brands, although they are not as well-known or widely exported as other Chinese consumer items. Some popular Chinese perfumes include Guerlain's Vol de Nuit and Armani's Acqua de Gio.
Yes, there are Japanese perfume brands, although they are not as prevalent as in Western countries. Japanese culture has a deep appreciation for fragrance, as seen in the traditional art of Kodo. However, fragrance is often cultivated in privacy and not worn in public.
