Fragrance Hormone Disruptors: What You Need To Know

Fragrances are a complex mix of chemicals, and the word fragrance on a label can capture over 3,000 different ingredients. While the fragrance in itself is not necessarily harmful, some of its components have been linked to adverse health effects, including hormone disruption. These endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) can interfere with the body's natural hormones or cause excess production, leading to potential negative metabolic health impacts, increased risk of allergies and asthma, and adverse reproductive health outcomes. The lack of transparency and regulation in the fragrance industry makes it challenging for consumers to know what specific chemicals they are exposed to, as manufacturers are not required to disclose all ingredients. However, some common fragrance ingredients, such as phthalates, parabens, and synthetic musk compounds, have been identified as potential hormone disruptors.

Phthalates, parabens, and other preservatives

Phthalates are a group of chemicals used in hundreds of products, including plastics, cosmetics, and fragrances. The type of phthalate commonly used in fragrance products is diethyl phthalate (DEP). Phthalates help dissolve and stabilise other ingredients, making the scent last longer.

Phthalates are known endocrine disruptors, meaning they can interfere with the body's hormone systems. Research has shown that phthalates, specifically di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate, bind to oestrogen receptors, increasing oestrogen levels in our bodies. They can either interfere with the release of natural hormones or cause excess production. Exposure to phthalates has been associated with decreased sperm quality.

Parabens are another group of preservatives used in fragrances to make the scent last longer. Like phthalates, they have been noted for their potential hormone-disrupting effects because their molecular structures mimic those of hormones like estrogen and testosterone in the body.

Other preservatives used in fragrances include glutaraldehyde, hydroperoxides, oil of turpentine, metals, nitro musks, and essential oils. These chemicals have been linked to various adverse health effects, including neural ailments, teratogenicity, and transgender instances.

The lack of transparency in the fragrance industry makes it difficult for consumers to know exactly what chemicals they are being exposed to. While some sources claim that DEP does not pose any known risks to human health, others argue that the potential risks of these chemicals are not fully understood and more research is needed.

To minimise potential risks, consumers can choose products labelled as "phthalate-free", "paraben-free", or "clean" and opt for fragrances made with natural essential oils and plant-derived ingredients.

Octoxynols and nonoxynols, emulsifiers

Octoxynols and nonoxynols are a group of ethoxylated alkyl phenols. They are used in cosmetics and personal care products, such as hair dyes, hair colours, hair conditioners, and permanent waves. Octoxynols help to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified. They also help to clean skin and hair by allowing water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away.

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has reviewed the safety of Octoxynols and approved their use as indirect food additives. The FDA has also assessed the safety of Octoxynols for use in cosmetics and personal care products. The CIR Expert Panel concluded that some Octoxynols were safe as used in rinse-off and leave-on cosmetics and personal care products, while others were safe in rinse-off products and at concentrations of 5% or less in leave-on products.

Some studies suggest that environmental breakdown products of Octoxynols may mimic the activity of the hormone estrogen, which is a type of endocrine disruption.

Nonoxynols, also known as nonaethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol nonyl phenyl ether, are mixtures of nonionic surfactants used as detergents, emulsifiers, wetting agents, or defoaming agents. The most commonly discussed compound, nonoxynol-9, is a spermicide formulated primarily as a component of vaginal foams and creams. Nonoxynols have been found to metabolize into free nonylphenol when administered to lab animals.

Concerns about the environmental impact of nonoxynols have been raised due to their mild to medium estrogenic function. Consequently, this class of detergents has been restricted for commercial "down-the-drain" applications in Europe, and they are no longer used by U.S. laundry manufacturers. On August 13, 2008, high levels of nonoxynols were found in Björn Borg underwear by the Swedish newspaper Göteborg Posten.

Synthetic musk compounds

Synthetic musks are chemicals used in personal care product fragrances. They are rarely listed on the label as fragrance ingredients are often not disclosed. They are used in products such as perfumes, cosmetics, soap, fabric softeners, body sprays, colognes, and air fresheners.

The most common types of synthetic musks are nitro-musks (e.g. musk ketone and musk xylene) and polycyclic musks (e.g. galaxolide and tonalide). These chemicals enter the human body through skin absorption, inhalation, and ingestion of contaminated food. Studies show that these compounds can disrupt cell functioning and hormone systems.

There is evidence that synthetic musks disrupt hormones. For example, musk ketone, galaxolide, and tonalide alter estrogen activity, and both tonalide and galaxolide inhibit androgen and progesterone from binding to their receptors. In addition, musk ketone, musk xylene, and tonalide have been found to increase the growth and multiplication of estrogen-responsive human breast cancer cells.

Synthetic musks have also been linked to organ system toxicity, reproductive and developmental toxicity, and bioaccumulation. They have been detected in human breast milk, body fat, blood, and umbilical cords, as well as in the environment, including water, soil, indoor air, and living species.

Due to concerns about their potential health and environmental risks, some countries have taken steps to restrict or ban the use of certain synthetic musks. For example, Japan banned musk xylene and other nitro-musks in the 1980s, while the European Commission has banned musk xylene and restricted the use of musk ketone and tonalide.

Volatile organic compounds (VOCs)

Fragrances are a major source of VOCs. A study by the Breast Cancer Prevention Partners found that three out of four ingredients in body care products linked to adverse health effects were fragrance compounds. The International Fragrance Association lists over 3,600 potential ingredients in fragrance formulations, including various forms of benzene, formaldehyde, and phthalates (endocrine disruptors).

A survey found that scented consumer goods emit over 100 toxic volatile organic compounds (VOCs) such as limonene, α- and β-pinene, ethanol, and acetone. These fragrance products severely degrade indoor air quality.

Some of the main VOCs emitted from chemically synthesized fragrances include ethanol, propylene glycol, and 3-ethylbenzaldehyde. 3-Ethylbenzaldehyde is a strong respiratory irritant.

The use of diffusers at room temperature significantly increases the emissions of VOCs from liquid aroma products.

To reduce exposure to VOCs, it is recommended to avoid artificial chemical fragrances, opt for fragrance-free cosmetics, and improve indoor air quality through ventilation and filtration.

Undisclosed ingredients

In the European Union, it is estimated that over 2,500 different fragrance ingredients are used in perfumes and perfumed consumer goods. While the EU has regulations in place requiring cosmetics to be labelled with their ingredients, fragrance ingredients are often protected as trade secrets and are not listed on the packaging. This lack of disclosure makes it challenging for consumers to identify and avoid potentially harmful chemicals.

A study conducted by Tegengif, Kom op tegen Kanker, and Kemi found that 18 out of 20 perfumes contained one or more suspected endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs). Additionally, several allergens, reprotoxic substances, and environmentally harmful chemicals were found in these fragrances, yet none of these substances were mentioned on the label. This underscores the importance of ingredient transparency to ensure consumers are aware of the potential risks associated with the products they are using.

Parabens and phthalates, commonly used as preservatives in fragrances, have been noted for their potential hormone-disrupting effects. Their molecular structures can mimic hormones like estrogen and testosterone in the body, interfering with the release of natural hormones or causing excess production. Octoxynols and nonoxynols, which are used as emulsifiers, have also been identified as potential endocrine disruptors.

Synthetic musk compounds, designed to mimic the natural scent of musk, can accumulate in the body and the environment, posing potential health risks. Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs), such as formaldehyde, are another concern. They are emitted as gases from various liquids and solids and can cause headaches, dizziness, nausea, and irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat. Long-term exposure to VOCs has also been linked to an increased risk of specific cancers, such as lung cancer.

While the full extent of the risks associated with undisclosed ingredients in fragrances may not be known, it is clear that greater transparency and disclosure are needed to empower consumers to make informed choices about the products they use and to protect their health and the environment.

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