Seamus Hammond
Absolutes are highly concentrated, aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants. They are used in perfumery and aromatherapy, and are similar to essential oils. Absolutes are produced through solvent extraction or the traditional method of enfleurage. They are considered desirable ingredients in perfumery due to their ability to enhance or intensify natural notes, such as jasmine and rose. In the context of perfume creation, fixatives are additives that help extend the longevity of a fragrance. Natural fixatives include substances derived from plants, such as resins, while synthetic fixatives are typically odorless solvents. The use of absolutes as fixatives in perfumery is a subject of discussion among DIY perfumers, with some considering specific absolutes, such as musk and civet, as effective fixatives in their creations.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| How absolutes are extracted | Solvent extraction or enfleurage |
| What absolutes are extracted from | Plants |
| Examples of absolutes | Jasmine, beeswax, rose, tuberose, tobacco, oakmoss, lavender, geranium |
| Examples of carrier oils | Filtered coconut oil, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, sweet almond oil |
| Dilution rates | 50% absolute to carrier, 35% absolute to carrier, 25 drops of 35% dilution to a 5ml bottle of carrier |
| Examples of fixatives | Vanilla, sandalwood, musk, civet, castoreum, orris root powder |
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What You'll Learn
- Absolutes are highly concentrated fragrances extracted from plants
- Absolutes are produced through solvent extraction or enfleurage
- Absolutes can be diluted with carrier oils like coconut oil or alcohol
- Fixatives are added to perfumes to increase longevity
- Natural fixatives include vanilla, sandalwood, and musk
Absolutes are highly concentrated fragrances extracted from plants
Absolutes are in high demand due to their rich, natural, and authentic floral scents. Popular absolutes include rose, jasmine, tuberose, tobacco, lavender, and geranium. They are highly sought-after ingredients for perfumers as they are extracted from plants and contain a high density of colourants, waxes, and other aromatic constituents.
Absolutes are considered good perfume fixatives as they help to stabilize and prolong the evaporation process, ensuring the longevity of the scent. The concentration of the fragrance is determined by the amount of alcohol used, which also aids in lifting and disseminating the fragrance notes. Absolutes act as excellent fixatives due to their high concentration and ability to provide a rich, authentic scent.
Fixatives are crucial in perfume formulation, and perfumers aim to use the highest quality ingredients, whether synthetic or natural. Some popular fixatives include resinous, vanilla-nuanced benzoin, and creamy, sweet, woody sandalwood. The addition of fixatives can alter the odour profile of the fragrance, so perfumers must carefully consider their use.
Overall, absolutes are highly concentrated fragrances extracted from plants and are valued for their aromatic and fixative properties in the creation of long-lasting perfumes.
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Absolutes are produced through solvent extraction or enfleurage
Absolutes are highly concentrated, aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants. Unlike essential oils, which are produced by distillation, boiling, or pressing, absolutes are produced through solvent extraction or the traditional method of enfleurage.
Solvent Extraction
Absolutes are most commonly produced through solvent extraction. This process involves using organic solvents, such as hexane, to extract plant material. The solvent pulls out the plant's aroma, resulting in a waxy substance known as concrete. The concrete is then extracted with ethanol and cooled to solidify waxes. After cold filtering, the ethanol evaporates, leaving behind an oil—the absolute. This technique may leave trace amounts of solvents, which are considered undesirable.
Enfleurage
Enfleurage is a traditional and extremely time-consuming method of obtaining absolutes. It involves laying flower tops or petals onto a glass insert containing a purified fat substance, housed in a frame called a chassis. The essential oil is naturally pulled out of the flower and infused into the fat over several days. This process is repeated with fresh batches of flowers until the fat reaches the desired concentration. Finally, the floral essence is separated from the fat using an alcohol wash, leaving behind the concentrated absolute oil. Enfleurage is the oldest form of botanical extraction, invented in the 19th century in Southern France for the fine perfume industry.
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Absolutes can be diluted with carrier oils like coconut oil or alcohol
Absolutes are highly concentrated, aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants. They are used in perfumery and aromatherapy, and are known for their intense fragrances. Due to their high concentration, absolutes are typically diluted before use to reveal their true aroma. Dilution is achieved by mixing the absolute with a carrier oil or alcohol.
One popular carrier oil for absolutes is filtered coconut oil. Coconut oil has a thin consistency and is highly absorbable, making it suitable for use in perfume spray bases. Other carrier oils include grape seed, jojoba, and sweet almond oils, which create a slightly oilier consistency than coconut oil. A good starting point for dilution is a 50/50 blend of absolute to carrier, although a 35/65 ratio can also be used for a more potent mixture.
Absolutes can also be diluted with alcohol, which is commonly used for colognes, perfumes, and sprays. Vodka is a popular choice as it has virtually no alcoholic aroma, making it a versatile carrier. Absolutes will generally dissolve in alcohol, although some may take longer to dissolve thoroughly.
It is important to note that absolutes may contain traces of solvents and are not suitable for internal use. When creating fragrances with absolutes, it is crucial to have a good concentration of ingredients to ensure the final product is not watered down, which can affect its longevity. Additionally, fixatives can be added to enhance the scent and increase its longevity. These can be natural fixatives, such as vanilla and sandalwood, or synthetic options like synthetic musk, which is well-known for its sugary, musky, and floral notes.
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Fixatives are added to perfumes to increase longevity
Fixatives are added to perfumes to increase their longevity. Natural fixatives are additives derived from plants that produce a thick, sticky substance called resin. These include benzoin, frankincense, myrrh, olibanum, labdanum, storax, tolu balsam, castoreum, musk, and civet. Synthetic fixatives, on the other hand, are substances with low volatility, virtually odourless solvents, and very low vapour pressure. An example of a powerful synthetic fixative is Fixative BMV, which can be used at a concentration of up to 10%.
Absolutes are highly concentrated, aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants through solvent extraction or the traditional method of enfleurage. They are commonly used in perfumery and aromatherapy, and their high concentration means their true aroma is often not evident until diluted. Absolutes are known to enhance notes in perfumes, such as jasmine and rose, or are the only way of working with certain ingredients, like natural oakmoss absolute.
When creating perfumes, fixatives are typically added to the base notes and kept at about 3 to 5% concentration. While fixatives help extend the longevity of a fragrance, they can also alter its odour profile, sometimes diminishing the head notes. Therefore, it is important to carefully select and test fixatives to ensure they enhance the desired scent without overpowering it.
To create a long-lasting perfume, it is crucial to use high-quality ingredients, whether synthetic or natural, and to ensure proper dilution rates and concentrations. For example, when creating a single-note perfume from an absolute, one can start with a 35% dilution and adjust the concentration as needed. Similarly, when using fixatives, it is important to follow recommended percentages, as some, like Fixative BMV, can be used at higher concentrations than others.
Overall, fixatives play a crucial role in extending the longevity of perfumes, and absolutes are valuable ingredients that enhance the aromatic profile of fragrances. By carefully selecting and blending these elements, perfumers can create complex and enduring scents.
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Natural fixatives include vanilla, sandalwood, and musk
Natural fixatives are additives used in perfumes and cosmetic products that are secreted from plants that produce a thick, sticky substance known as resin. Natural fixatives include vanilla, sandalwood, and musk.
Vanilla is a natural fixative with a sweet and smooth fragrance. It is often used as a substitute for lush and sweet vanilla in the food industry. Vanilla is a key ingredient in creating both feminine and masculine fragrances.
Sandalwood is a rare and precious material that is highly sought after by perfumers. It has a unique molecular structure that gives it a long-lasting and captivating fragrance. The essential oil of sandalwood is extracted from the tree's heartwood through steam distillation and provides a long-lasting base note for perfumes.
Musk is a natural fixative that has been used in perfumery since ancient times. It is derived from the gland of a musk deer and has a strong odor. The musk pod, a gland found under the skin of the male musk deer's abdomen, produces a reddish-brown paste that dries and turns into a black granular material called "musk grain." This substance is then tinctured with alcohol to create a pleasant odor. Musk has a complex aroma that is often described as earthy and woody. Today, the trade of natural musk is controlled by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) due to the endangering of the musk deer. As a result, nearly all musk fragrances used in perfumery today are synthetic, sometimes referred to as "white musk."
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Frequently asked questions
Absolutes are highly concentrated, aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants. They are used in perfumery and aromatherapy.
Absolutes are produced through solvent extraction. First, plant material is extracted with a hydrocarbon solvent to yield a substance called concrete. The concrete is then extracted with ethanol, and the ethanol extract is cooled and filtered to yield a liquid extract. When the ethanol evaporates, an oil—the absolute—is left behind.
Absolutes can be used as perfume fixatives, but they are not the only option. Other fixatives include natural fixatives like benzoin, frankincense, myrrh and synthetic fixatives like Fixative BMV.
Absolutes are typically highly concentrated, so they need to be diluted before use. A common dilution ratio is 50% absolute to 50% carrier, or 35% absolute to 65% carrier. Alcohol, particularly vodka, is a good carrier for absolutes and is suitable for perfumes.
