Lance Carson
Opium, an oriental spicy fragrance for women, was launched by Yves Saint Laurent in 1977. Over the years, the formulation of the perfume has changed. The newer versions are lighter and have weaker undertones compared to the original formulation. The vintage formulation is considered to be superior by many. If you're looking to purchase a vintage Opium perfume bottle, there are a few ways to determine its authenticity. Firstly, check the swirls on the bottle—the newer formulation has fewer swirls compared to the original. Secondly, look for batch codes on the box and bottle—between 1995 and 2004, Saint Laurent used a four-number code on the box and a five-number code on the bottom of the bottle. You can also look for features like enameled lettering, lot numbers, bottle shape numbers, or patent numbers embossed on the glass base, which were common in older bottles. Additionally, the style of the box or label can provide clues about the age of the perfume.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Bottle design | The vintage formula has swirls on the bottle, while newer bottles have fewer swirls. |
| Bottle markings | Older bottles may have lot numbers, bottle shape numbers, or patent numbers embossed on the glass base. English Registry Design numbers can be found on some UK bottles. French bottles often have etched matching numbers on the base and the bottom of the stopper. |
| Labels | Old labels may turn brown, and water or perfume can cause stains. Art Nouveau-style labels indicate a bottle from the 1900s to the 1920s, while Art Deco labels suggest the mid-1920s to the 1940s. Psychedelic labels are from the late 1960s to early 1970s. |
| Seal | Sealed vintage perfumes may appear partially empty due to evaporation of alcohol and water. The liquid may also darken and thicken over time. |
| Scent | The vintage formula contains real animal musk and castoreum, resulting in leathery undertones. Newer formulas have weaker undertones and muted notes. |
| Batch codes | From 1995 to 2004, Saint Laurent used a 4-number code on the box and a 5-number code on the bottle (e.g., 6321 on the box and 63211 on the bottle, indicating 1996). From 2005 to 2011, a 1-number and 3-letter code was used (e.g., 7HAA for 2007). |
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What You'll Learn
Check the number of swirls on the bottle
If you're looking to purchase a vintage Opium perfume bottle, one of the ways to determine its authenticity is by checking the number of swirls on the bottle. The original vintage formula of Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, launched in 1977, is known for its distinct and prominent swirls on the glass bottle.
Over the years, the formulation of Opium has changed, and these differences are reflected in the bottle design. The newer versions of Opium, particularly those released after 1995, have fewer swirls in the glass compared to the original formula. The absence or reduction of swirls is an indication that the bottle contains a more recent formulation.
Therefore, when examining the bottle, pay close attention to the number of swirls present. The vintage Opium bottles will have more pronounced and numerous swirls, giving the glass a unique textured appearance. These swirls are not just decorative but also symbolize the intricate and complex nature of the original fragrance.
Additionally, the swirls on the vintage bottles serve as an indicator of the scent's intensity and longevity. The intricate swirls reflect how the fragrance unfolds and evolves on the skin, creating a long-lasting and captivating scent experience. So, the number of swirls on the bottle is not just an aesthetic detail but also a subtle hint at the magic that lies within.
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Look for a patent number on the base
One of the ways to determine if an Opium perfume bottle is a vintage formula is to look for a patent number on the base of the bottle. Patent dates were frequent in the 1930s and 1940s, and these can be looked up on search engines on US patent websites.
In addition to patent numbers, there are other indicators to look out for when dating a perfume bottle. From the 1930s onwards, enameled lettering (also known as serigraphy) was used instead of labels on glass bottles and became a regular feature in the 1940s. This lettering is fragile and can be lost easily with cleaning. Old glass bottles might also have etched matching numbers on the base of the bottle and on the bottom of the stopper. This was done at the factory to show which bottle goes with the right stopper. These were usually found on French bottles such as Baccarat.
Older bottles from the 1930s and 1940s would have lot numbers, bottle shape numbers, or patent numbers embossed into the glass base. By 1970, cosmetic companies were stamping coloured numbers on the bottom of their products. During the years 1995-2004, Saint Laurent batched its perfumes with a four-number code on the box and a five-number code on the bottom of the bottle. For example, the number 63211 on the bottle indicates that the perfume was manufactured in 1996. From 2005 to 2011, Saint Laurent used one number and three letters, both on the box and the bottle (e.g., 7HAA, which means 2007).
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Check for natural musk
One of the ways to determine if an Opium perfume bottle is of the vintage formula is to check for the presence of natural musk. The vintage Opium perfume by Yves Saint Laurent, introduced to the market in 1977, contained real animal musk. This is something that is prohibited in modern times due to cruelty concerns.
The newer versions of Opium, particularly those from the 1990s onwards, do not contain natural musk. The prohibition against its use was likely in place by the 1990s. Therefore, if you find a bottle that has a prominent musk scent, it is likely to be of the vintage formula.
The vintage Opium perfume is described as having a ''Holy Grail scent'' that is vastly different from the newer formulations. The modern versions are considered inferior by some, lacking the personality and scent of the original. The newer formulations are described as having muted notes, with weaker undertones, especially the coconut and vanilla notes.
The presence of natural musk in the vintage formula is also related to the longevity of the scent. The older bottles with real musk are said to have better sillage and longevity compared to the newer versions. The newer versions become closer to the skin more quickly and do not last as long.
Therefore, if you are looking for a bottle of the vintage Opium perfume, checking for the presence of natural musk can be a key indicator. The strong musk scent, combined with other factors such as the swirl design on the bottle, can help authenticate that it is indeed the original formula.
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Check the colour of the liquid
The colour of the liquid in a vintage perfume bottle will change over time. The older the perfume, the darker the liquid will be. This is because the alcohol and water content will evaporate due to heat, light, and poor storage conditions, as well as the natural ageing process. This leaves behind a high concentration of essential oils and aroma chemicals, resulting in a darker, thicker, and more syrupy texture.
To identify if your Opium perfume bottle contains the vintage formula, carefully examine the colour of the liquid inside. Vintage Opium perfume is known for its distinctive dark amber hue. Over time, the liquid may darken further, becoming even more concentrated and intense in colour. If the liquid appears light or has a pale yellow tint, it is likely a newer formulation.
It is important to note that the colour of the liquid can vary depending on the specific batch and storage conditions. For instance, exposure to direct sunlight or high temperatures can accelerate the evaporation process, resulting in a darker liquid. Therefore, it is essential to consider other factors in conjunction with the colour when determining the age of your Opium perfume.
Additionally, the presence of sediment or cloudiness in the liquid could indicate that the perfume has undergone some degradation. However, this is not always the case, as some vintage perfumes may still have clear liquids. If you notice any significant changes in colour or consistency, it may be an indication that the perfume has spoiled or deteriorated beyond the expected ageing process.
Comparing the colour of the liquid in your bottle to images of vintage Opium perfume online or in advertisements can also provide valuable insights. Vintage advertisements often feature dates, allowing you to visually compare the colour of the liquid in your bottle to those from the same era. Remember that the colour of vintage perfume can vary due to factors such as storage conditions and the natural variation between batches, so it is essential to consider this when making your assessment.
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Compare the style of the label or box
Comparing the style of the label or box of Opium perfume can help determine if it is a vintage formula or not. One of the most notable differences is the batch code. From 1995 to 2004, vintage Opium perfume bottles by YSL featured a four-number code on the box and a five-number code on the bottom of the bottle, with the additional number being "1". For example, if the box had the code "6321", the bottle would have the code "63211". The first four numbers "6321" indicate the production year, which in this case would be 1996. From 2005 to 2011, the coding system changed to one number plus three letters, appearing as "7HAA" to indicate the year 2007.
Another way to differentiate between vintage and modern Opium perfume is through the design of the bottle. The vintage formula bottles are known for their prominent swirls in the glass, while the newer versions have significantly fewer swirls.
The packaging of the box has also undergone changes over the years. While specific details of the vintage box design are scarce, it is known that the modern versions have deviated significantly from the original packaging.
The label on the bottle itself may also provide clues about the production year. However, it is important to note that the labels may vary depending on the variant of Opium perfume, such as Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, or parfum extract.
When comparing the style of the label or box, it is worth mentioning that the vintage Opium perfumes from the 1970s had notable differences in their formulations compared to the later versions. The 1970s versions contained real animal musk and castoreum, contributing to their distinctive scent profiles. By the 1990s, prohibitions against the use of natural musk were in place, resulting in alternative formulations.
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Frequently asked questions
The formula of Opium perfume changed over time, with the 1970s version containing real animal musk and castoreum, and stronger coconut and vanilla notes. If you're looking for a vintage formula, look for a bottle with lots of swirls in the glass. The newer bottles have very few swirls.
Check the bottom of the bottle for a batch number. If the batch number is 5 numbers, the first 4 will be the year it was made. For example, the number 63211 means the bottle was manufactured in 1996.
Vintage perfume will start to darken over time, and the oldest perfumes have a very dark, thick, syrupy texture due to the evaporation of alcohol and water.
Old labels turn brown naturally, but water and perfume can also cause stains on labels over the years. Art Nouveau-style labels are generally from 1900-1920, Art Deco from the mid-1920s to the 1940s, and psychedelic labels are from the late 1960s to early 1970s.
Compare the box to vintage advertisements for Opium perfume in old magazines. The advertisements usually have a date on them, and you can use the image of the box in the ad to compare to your own.
