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Will Andrews is a fragrance expert and scientist at P&G Prestige, where he works as a senior evaluator. With three decades of experience in the industry, he has held roles in R&D and Sales, working with top fashion houses, perfumers, and retail partners. In his work, Andrews has explored unique fragrances, such as the Maninka fruit, and has a deep understanding of the connection between olfactive themes and brand identity. His passion for perfumery has led him to educate both the industry and the public on fragrance design and its cultural significance.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Name | Will Andrews |
| Occupation | Scientist and Senior Evaluator at P&G Prestige |
| Other Roles | Head of Education at Coty UK&I, Fragrance Expert, Fragrance Evaluator, Master Storyteller |
| Industry Experience | 30 years |
| Notable Projects | Boss The Scent |
| Notable Clients | Top fashion houses, perfumers, and retail partners |
| Expertise | Olfactive themes, brand identity, perfumery, scent translation, and cultural significance |
| Notable Quotes | "this note isn't really for the consumer...this is for the creative team, it's a new note to help inspire the creative perfumers - new notes inspire their work." |
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What You'll Learn
Will Andrews' role as Head of Education at Coty UK&I
Will Andrews is an industry-recognized fragrance expert with three decades of experience. He is currently the Head of Education at Coty UK&I, a position he has held since 2017. Based in Wimbledon, Andrews leads a team of expert beauty product educators, renowned for their expertise and professionalism.
Andrews' deep understanding of the beauty industry stems from his past and present roles in R&D and Sales. He has worked alongside top fashion houses, perfumers, and retail partners, building strong connections between olfactive themes and brand identity. As a trained fragrance evaluator and master storyteller, he gives fragrance brands an authentic voice.
His passion for perfumery and scent translation has led him to educate both the industry and the public on various aspects of fragrance design, perfumery, and its cultural significance since 2006. In his role at Coty, Andrews enables others to navigate the world of luxury beauty.
Prior to his position at Coty, Andrews worked as a Scientist and Senior Evaluator at P&G Prestige. There, he collaborated with colleagues and specialists from various fields on an expedition to the Fynbos region in South Africa's Southern Cape. They utilized Headspace technology to record fragrance molecules, allowing for the recreation of unique fragrances.
Andrews has a profound understanding of the connection between scent and human perception. For example, he explains how leather represents strength and confidence in perfumery, while also recognizing the importance of new fragrance notes to inspire creative perfumers.
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The Maninka fruit and its use in perfumery
The Maninka fruit is the product of the so-called fried egg tree or snuffbox tree (Oncoba spinosa). The name of the tree is derived from the appearance of its flowers, which resemble fried eggs, or from the use of its fruits, which can be processed into snuffboxes. The name Maninka probably comes from the ethnic group of the same name, based in different countries in West Africa, who use these fruits economically.
The fruit is most commonly used for medicinal purposes and, until recently, had not been used in perfumery. It has a dried fruit aroma, with hints of strawberries dipped in chocolate. Its scent is also described as a blend of lush fruits with a hint of something deeper and more mysterious, providing a multifaceted and intriguing element to fragrances. The specific olfactory characteristics of Maninka Fruit make it a valuable addition to a fragrance palette. It offers a distinctive fruity note with an underlying warmth and depth, adding an exotic and sensual dimension to fragrance compositions. Its use is particularly notable in fragrances that aim to evoke a sense of exoticism and mystery.
The Maninka fruit is an exotic and relatively lesser-known ingredient in perfumery. Originating from Africa, the fruit is not widely recognised in mainstream perfumery but has gained attention for its intriguing olfactory profile. It is said to have a complex, fruity, and slightly spicy scent with facets of warmth and a deep richness, making it an interesting choice for fragrance creation.
It is unclear whether the form of Maninka fruit used in perfumery is natural, synthetic, or a combination of both. Its exotic and uncommon nature suggests that its scent may be replicated synthetically, especially if natural extraction is challenging or impractical. The unique scent profile of Maninka fruit may also lead to the creation of synthetic analogues to capture its essence in fragrances. If Maninka fruit oil is extracted naturally, it likely involves processes such as steam distillation or solvent extraction. However, due to the lack of widespread use and documentation, it is uncertain if these methods are employed.
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The use of Headspace technology to record fragrance molecules
Headspace technology is a groundbreaking method that has transformed the way perfumers capture and record fragrance molecules. This innovative technique, first developed in the 1980s, allows for the elucidation and analysis of odor compounds present in the air surrounding various objects, particularly odoriferous ones such as plants, flowers, and foods. One of the pioneers of this technology, Swiss chemist Roman Kaiser, utilised it to explore the scents of tropical rainforests, capturing the in-vivo floral headspace and its aromatic compounds.
The process of Headspace technology involves placing a glass flask or a bell-jar over the desired object or location to capture its unique scent. This airtight seal traps the volatile fragrant molecules, which are then desorbed from the membrane and injected into a gas chromatograph and mass spectrometer for analysis. This advanced technique enables perfumers to identify and understand the composition of natural fragrances, including the presence and proportions of each molecule.
The appeal of Headspace technology lies in its simplicity, flexibility, and sensitivity. It is a non-destructive method that does not require sample preparation or the cutting of plant parts, making it a sustainable and clean approach to scent extraction. This technology is invaluable in the fragrance industry, as it allows perfumers to recreate accords or entire fragrances based on the identified molecules, pushing the boundaries of creativity and leading to the development of unique and captivating perfumes.
The versatility of Headspace technology is evident in its ability to capture the scent of specific moments and locations, such as the sea, a botanical garden, or even a bakery shop. This feature has inspired perfumers to create perfumes based on these inspiring moments, such as the headspace of the Japanese drink, sake. By utilising Headspace analysis, perfumers can explore new raw materials and rare scents, enhancing their creative processes and resulting in innovative fragrance experiences.
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The role of leather in masculine fragrances
Leather fragrances, or parfums cuir in French, are a unique and complex subset of the fragrance world, often associated with masculinity. The term "leather" in perfumery refers to an olfactory note that mimics the scent of natural leather, typically achieved through a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients, known as an accord. This technique allows perfumers to create distinctive olfactory compositions that evoke the characteristic smell of leather without using leather in the manufacturing process.
The use of leather in fragrances adds a layer of depth, sensuality, and character, making it a favoured ingredient among perfumers. The olfactory profile of leather evokes luxury, masculinity, and power, creating an immersive experience that can transport the wearer to memories of new leather, luxury cars, or leather-clad rooms. The versatility of leather notes in perfumery is remarkable, ranging from the tough to the soft, the tame to the wild, and the luxurious to the utilitarian.
The history of leather fragrances is just as intriguing as their scent profiles. The association between leather and perfume is ancient, dating back to 2000 BC in Asia, where leather was treated with the bark of the Kumquat tree. Over the centuries, various civilisations, including the Spanish and Italians, perfumed their hides with precious scents, such as rose water, amber, musk, and sweet almond. The French perfume houses and the luxury leather goods industry also played a significant role in incorporating leather into fine fragrances.
While the popularity of leather fragrances waned in the 1980s, they have since experienced a resurgence, with perfumers continuing to experiment and innovate with leather notes. Today, leather fragrances remain a beloved choice for those seeking a sophisticated, sensual, and powerful scent, leaving a memorable olfactory imprint on those who encounter them.
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Will Andrews' career and expertise in the fragrance industry
Will Andrews is a well-known figure in the fragrance industry, currently serving as the Head of Education at Coty UK&I in Wimbledon. With three decades of experience, he is an industry-recognized Fragrance Expert. His career in the fragrance industry has been characterized by a diverse range of roles and a deep understanding of the beauty industry.
Andrews began his career in R&D and Sales, collaborating with top fashion houses, perfumers, and retail partners. This provided him with a broad perspective on the industry. As a trained fragrance evaluator, he possesses a unique skill set that allows him to establish strong connections between olfactive themes and brand identity. His expertise in scent translation and passion for perfumery have driven him to educate both the industry and the public on various aspects of fragrance design since 2006.
One of Andrews' notable contributions to the industry is his work with P&G Prestige, where he served as a Scientist and Senior Evaluator. In this role, he explored unique fragrance ingredients, such as the Maninka fruit, which had not been previously used in perfumery. Andrews and his team utilized Headspace technology to capture fragrance molecules and recreate new and exclusive accords for P&G/IFF fragrances. Their expeditions to regions like South Africa's Fynbos showcased their commitment to discovering new aromas and ingredients.
Andrews has an exceptional ability to build connections between scents and brand identity. For example, in his work with the Boss fragrance, he associated leather with the concept of strength and confidence, represented by ginger. This demonstrates his understanding of the power of fragrance in evoking specific emotions and sensations. Andrews' expertise and storytelling talents have undoubtedly contributed to the success of numerous fragrance brands, helping them find their authentic voice.
Throughout his career, Andrews has worked with a diverse range of brands, including Hugo Boss, Victoria's Secret, Bvlgari, Louis Vuitton, Avon, and Ariana Grande, among others. His impact on the fragrance industry is significant, and his expertise continues to shape the world of luxury beauty and perfumery.
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Frequently asked questions
Will Andrews is the Head of Education at Coty UK&I, based in Wimbledon. He is an industry-recognized Fragrance Expert with three decades of experience in the industry. He is also a trained fragrance evaluator and master storyteller, helping fragrance brands establish an authentic voice.
Will Andrews has worked in R&D and Sales with top fashion houses, perfumers, and retail partners. In an interview with P&G's Will Andrews, he mentions the use of the Maninka fruit in the latest Boss fragrance. He also talks about the significance of leather in perfumery, representing strength and confidence for the Boss Man.
As the Head of Education at Coty, Will Andrews leads a team of expert beauty product educators. He educates the industry and public on fragrance design, perfumery, and its cultural significance.
