Anisha Riggs
Opium is a women's perfume by Yves Saint Laurent, created by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac. The scent was launched in 1977 and was inspired by China. The name and advertising campaigns for the perfume have been controversial, with accusations of condoning drug use and being too sexually suggestive. Despite this, the press coverage helped increase sales, and Opium soon became a best-selling product. The scent has top notes of mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, and pepper, floral middle notes of jasmine, rose, and lily of the valley, and a sweet woody base.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Brand | Yves Saint Laurent |
| Creators | Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac |
| Year of Launch | 1977 |
| Target Audience | Women |
| Type of Perfume | Oriental-spicy |
| Top Notes | Mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, pepper, bay leaf |
| Middle Notes | Jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, orris root |
| Base Notes | Sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, castoreum, amber, musk, patchouli, tolu balsam, vetiver |
| Bottle Design | Designed by Pierre Dinand; inspired by inro, small Japanese lacquered cases |
| Advertising Campaign | Photographed by Steven Meisel; featured English model Sophie Dahl |
| Awards and Recognition | Won an award in Spain |
| Variants | Black Opium Eau de Parfum |
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What You'll Learn
Opium was created for Yves Saint Laurent
Opium is a women's perfume created for the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent. Launched in 1977, it was designed by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac. The scent was inspired by China and features a blend of patchouli, spices, and fruits. Its name and advertising campaigns have sparked controversy, but Opium has become a best-selling product for the brand.
The fragrance was introduced to the market in 1977, coinciding with Yves Saint Laurent's Autumn-Winter 1977 collection. The unusual blend of ingredients, including patchouli, spices, and fruits, created an exotic and distinctive scent profile. The top notes of Opium are a mixture of mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, pepper, and bay leaf. The middle notes reveal a floral heart of jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, and orris root. The base note is a sweet woody blend of sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, castoreum, amber, musk, patchouli, tolu balsam, and vetiver.
The perfume's name, Opium, caused a stir, with some accusing the brand and its designer, Yves Saint Laurent, of condoning drug use and being insensitive to Chinese history and Chinese American concerns. A group of Chinese Americans formed the American Coalition Against Opium and Drug Abuse to protest the name. Despite the controversy, the press coverage increased sales, and Opium quickly became a popular and successful fragrance.
The advertising campaigns for Opium have also been controversial. The launch party in the United States in 1978 featured the German ship Peking, named after the Chinese city of Beijing, draped with colourful banners. The ship and a 1,000-pound bronze statue of the Buddha decorated with orchids conveyed the supposed Eastern theme of the perfume. The promotional posters featuring English model Sophie Dahl in the early 2000s caused a stir, with some finding them too sexually suggestive and degrading to women. Despite the mixed reactions, the campaigns generated publicity and contributed to the success of the fragrance.
Opium has left a lasting impact, with customers describing it as a unique and intoxicating fragrance. It has become a signature scent for many, with its distinctive blend of notes creating a lasting impression. The YSL brand has since expanded the Opium line, introducing variations such as Black Opium, which features notes of coffee, sweet vanilla, and white flowers, appealing to the edgy and daring woman.
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The perfume was launched in 1977
The perfume Opium was launched in 1977 by Yves Saint Laurent, a French fashion house. The Oriental-spicy fragrance was designed for women and created by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac. The scent was inspired by China and featured a blend of patchouli, mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, pepper, bay leaf, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, carnation, cinnamon, peach, and orris root. The base notes included sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, castoreum, amber, musk, and vetiver.
The launch of Opium coincided with Yves Saint Laurent's Autumn-Winter 1977 collection. The perfume quickly gained publicity due to its controversial name, which some interpreted as condoning drug use. Despite the initial backlash, the press coverage increased sales, and Opium soon became a best-selling product. The German ship Peking, rented for the promotional US launch party in 1978, further emphasised the Eastern theme of the perfume.
Opium's advertising campaigns have continued to court controversy. The poster campaign featuring English model Sophie Dahl in 2000 received mixed reactions internationally, with some finding the images sexually suggestive and degrading to women. Despite this, the fragrance has endured, with variations such as Black Opium, a top-rated YSL perfume with notes of coffee, sweet vanilla, and white flowers, appealing to modern women with its edgy and daring image.
Over the years, Opium has garnered a loyal following, with some customers describing it as a unique, signature scent that lingers for hours. However, there have also been concerns about changes to the original formula, with some longtime users noticing differences in the fragrance's longevity and overall scent. Despite this, Opium remains a sought-after fragrance, with its distinctive blend of spices and woody base notes.
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It was inspired by China
Opium is an oriental-spicy women's perfume created for the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac. It was launched in 1977 to coincide with Yves Saint Laurent's Autumn-Winter 1977 collection, which was inspired by China. The theme of the collection was conveyed through the red plastic container that holds the perfume's glass vial, which was designed by Pierre Dinand based on inro—small Japanese lacquered cases worn hanging from the obi that held perfumes, herbs, and medicines.
The perfume quickly generated publicity due to its controversial name, with a group of Chinese Americans demanding a change of name and a public apology from Yves Saint Laurent for "his insensitivity to Chinese history and Chinese American concerns." They argued that the name represented "a menace that destroyed many lives in China." Despite this, the press coverage increased sales, and Opium soon became a best-selling product.
The top notes of Opium are a mixture of fruits and spices, including mandarin orange, plum, clove, coriander, and pepper, as well as bay leaf. Its floral middle notes consist predominantly of jasmine, rose, and lily of the valley, along with carnation, cinnamon, peach, and orris root. The base note is a sweet woody blend, featuring sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, castoreum, amber, musk, patchouli, tolu balsam, and vetiver.
Opium has left a lasting impact, with its unique scent and controversial advertising campaigns, photographed by Steven Meisel, that were seen as sexually suggestive and degrading to women. The male complement, Opium pour Homme, was launched in 1995, and a top-rated variation called Black Opium, with notes of coffee, sweet vanilla, and white flowers, was later introduced.
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The scent has woody base notes
Opium is an Oriental-spicy perfume for women, created for the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent and launched in 1977. The scent has woody base notes, including sandalwood, cedarwood, myrrh, opopanax, labdanum, benzoin resin, and castoreum. It also features amber, musk, patchouli, tolu balsam, and vetiver. The base notes of a fragrance are the slowest evaporating, meaning they linger on the skin and provide a lasting impression.
The original Opium perfume caused controversy with its name, which some interpreted as condoning drug use. This controversy, however, also helped increase its sales. The advertising campaigns for Opium have also been the subject of debate, with some finding them too sexually suggestive or degrading to women. Despite the mixed reactions, Opium became a best-selling product.
The male complement, Opium pour Homme, was launched in 1995, with vanilla as its main note and base notes of cedar and tolu balsam. The Black Opium line, introduced in 2014, features vanilla and cashmere wood in its base. Black Opium Over Red, a more recent addition, showcases a cherry trend, blending cherry with sweet, slightly chocolatey notes.
The woody base notes in Opium and its variations contribute to the overall sensual and mysterious character of the fragrances. These base notes are carefully crafted to leave a lasting impression, both on the wearer and those who encounter the scent.
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Opium advertising campaigns have been controversial
Opium is an Oriental-spicy perfume for women, created for the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) in 1977. The perfume was designed by perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac. Opium has been at the centre of several controversies due to its name and advertising campaigns.
Naming Controversy
The name of the perfume caused a stir, with accusations that Yves Saint Laurent was condoning drug use. In the United States, a group of Chinese Americans demanded a change of name and a public apology from Saint Laurent for "his insensitivity to Chinese history and Chinese American concerns". They formed a committee called the American Coalition Against Opium and Drug Abuse, which expressed outrage at the choice of a name representing "a menace that destroyed many lives in China".
Advertising Campaigns Controversy
Opium's advertising campaigns have also been controversial. In 2000, an advertising campaign for the product featured English model Sophie Dahl. The campaign, photographed by Steven Meisel and styled by French stylist Carine Roitfeld, depicted Dahl lounging on her back wearing nothing but gold jewellery, green eyeshadow, and a pair of strappy YSL heels. The ad was deemed too sexually suggestive and degrading to women, with the British Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) receiving more than 700 complaints from the public. The posters were withdrawn, but the campaign won an award in Spain.
In 2011, another Opium ad was banned by the ASA over 'simulated drug use'. The campaign for Belle d'Opium featured a woman whose body "seized upwards while lying on the floor", which was interpreted as simulating drug use. The ASA received 13 complaints about the ad, and despite YSL Beaute's defence, the ad was banned.
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Frequently asked questions
Opium is a perfume made by the French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent (YSL).
The perfumers Jean Amic and Jean-Louis Sieuzac created the fragrance for the fashion house.
Opium was launched in 1977 to coincide with Yves Saint Laurent's Autumn-Winter 1977 collection, which was inspired by China.
