Katrina Rosales
The art of perfumery has a long and rich history, dating back to ancient civilisations in Mesopotamia, Egypt, and India. Today, the perfume industry is a dynamic global business, with manufacturers constantly innovating to cater to diverse consumer preferences. At the heart of this industry are perfumers, experts in creating intricate olfactory compositions that evoke emotions and moods. These artists of scent blend science and creativity, drawing on their deep knowledge of ingredients and their interactions to craft unique fragrances. While some perfumers work for large fragrance corporations, others find their niche in smaller houses or even their own ventures, leaving an indelible mark on the world of perfumes.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Job Title | Perfumer |
| Expertise | Creating perfume compositions |
| Nickname | Nose |
| Skills | Fine sense of smell, skilled in producing olfactory compositions, trained in fragrance aesthetics, conveying abstract concepts and moods with compositions |
| Knowledge | Large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, how each reveals itself over time |
| Training | Apprenticeship under another perfumer, university courses, private workshops, formal training at schools of perfumery |
| Employment | Large fragrance corporations, smaller or independent perfume houses, own companies |
| Work Process | Begins with a brief by an employer or customer, blends multiple mixtures to capture desired feelings specified in the brief, presents perfume mixtures to customers |
| Perfume Creation | Use of whole ingredients, natural ingredients, organic chemistry structures, unique extraction techniques, distillation |
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What You'll Learn
The history of perfume
In ancient times, people used herbs and spices such as almond, coriander, myrtle, conifer resin, and bergamot, as well as flowers, to create perfumes. The ancient Greeks are credited with creating the first liquid perfume, with the Romans and Greeks extracting fragrances from diverse sources like flowers, woods, seeds, roots, saps, and gums. The Romans further refined the art of perfumery, and it is said that Cleopatra greeted Mark Antony on a boat with perfumed sails.
During the Islamic Golden Age, perfume usage was documented in Islamic culture, with Muhammad encouraging the use of perfume. Iranian scholars contributed significantly to the development of Middle Eastern perfumery, perfecting the extraction of fragrances through steam distillation and introducing new raw materials. The Arabic philosopher Al-Kindi wrote the "Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations," containing numerous recipes for fragrant oils and aromatic waters. The Persian Muslim doctor and chemist Ibn Sina (Avicenna) introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers by distillation, which is still the most common method today.
In the Renaissance period, perfumes were primarily used by royalty and the wealthy to mask body odours. This patronage helped create the western perfumery industry, with France becoming the European centre of perfume manufacture. The city of Grasse, in the south of France, became known as the world capital of perfume due to its ideal growing conditions for important perfume ingredients like roses and jasmine. During the 17th century, perfumed gloves became popular in France, and the guild of glove and perfume-makers was established in 1656.
The 19th century marked a significant change in perfumery with the development of chemistry and modern perfumery. Chanel No. 5 was the first perfume created using modern chemical principles and synthetic compounds. Eau de cologne, typically associated with men's fragrances, was invented by an Italian barber in the German city of Köln (Cologne) in the 18th century. In the 20th century, new concentration terminologies like eau de parfum emerged, and fragrances began to move towards more unisex options. Today, the top perfume manufacturers are spread across the globe, with companies like Givaudan, Takasago, and International Flavours & Fragrances creating fragrances for leading brands and shaping the global perfume industry.
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How to become a perfumer
Becoming a perfumer is no easy feat. It requires a solid foundation in chemistry, biology, or a related field, and a good sense of smell is essential. Perfumers must be able to identify hundreds of different raw materials and understand how they interact with one another to create accords and full fragrances.
There are several paths one could take to become a perfumer. One option is to pursue a degree in chemistry, biology, or a related field, and then join a big perfumery house's internal school, like Givaudan, IFF, or Symrise, to learn the art of perfumery with a mentor. Another option is to attend a specialized perfumery school, such as L’Ecole du parfum or ISIPCA in France, which offer comprehensive courses in the art and science of fragrance creation. These schools have close ties with major industry players, which can be advantageous for finding internships or work-study positions.
In addition to their artistic abilities, perfumers should possess strong business skills, as they often need to market their creations and work with clients. Building relationships within the business and developing a personal brand can also help aspiring perfumers access opportunities in the industry.
It's important to note that becoming a perfumer typically requires around 10 years of study and training, so it is a long and dedicated journey for an exceptional profession.
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The process of making perfume
The first step in creating a perfume is often deciding on the desired notes and their order. A perfume typically consists of base, heart, and head notes. The base note, which is usually something like vanilla or sandalwood, lasts the longest. The heart note, which is generally floral, comes second. The head note is a strong, explosive scent that evaporates quickly. These notes can be derived from essential oils, absolutes, tinctures, or synthetic molecules.
Once the desired notes have been selected, the next step is to extract the essential oils from the chosen plants or flowers. There are several methods for doing this, including steam distillation, boiling, solvent extraction, enfleurage, maceration, and expression. In the steam distillation method, steam passes through the plant material, turning the essential oil into gas, which is then cooled and liquefied. The boiling process involves extracting oils by boiling flower petals in water. Solvent extraction involves placing flowers in rotating tanks and using benzene or petroleum ether to extract the essential oils. Enfleurage is a costly and labour-intensive method where flowers are spread on grease-coated glass sheets and pressed between wooden frames. The petals are left in the greasy mixture for several weeks before being replaced with fresh petals, and the process is repeated until the essence is fully saturated.
After the essential oils have been extracted, they are blended with alcohol to create the perfume. The oil and alcohol are combined, and heat is applied to evaporate the alcohol, leaving a high concentration of perfume oil.
Creating a perfume involves a lot of patience and experimentation. The amounts and combinations of different ingredients can significantly impact the final scent. Thus, perfumery is a complex art that requires dedication and practice to master.
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Famous perfumers and their clients
The world of perfumery has long been dominated by men, with women being either rejected or forced to work behind the scenes. However, several notable women have made their mark in the industry, creating fragrances for well-known brands and celebrities. Here are some of the most famous female perfumers and their clients:
Anne Flipo
Master French perfumer Anne Flipo has been associated with IFF since 2004 and is considered one of the most talented perfumers in the industry. She has created beloved fragrances for Yves Saint Laurent, such as Libre Intense Eau de Parfum, and Givenchy's L'Interdit Eau de Parfum. Flipo also co-created the iconic Paco Rabanne Lady Million with Dominique Ropion and Beatrice Piquet in 2010.
Nathalie Lorson
Grasse-born Nathalie Lorson is one of the most famous female "noses" in modern perfumery. She joined IFF in 1987 and began working at Firmenich in 2000. Lorson is the nose behind iconic fragrances like Flora by Gucci (2009) and Burberry Weekend for Women (1997). She also collaborated with other renowned perfumers on YSL's Black Opium (2014).
Christine Nagel
Swiss perfumer Christine Nagel has been the in-house perfumer for Hermès since 2016. She began her career as a research chemist and market analyst at Firmenich before launching her perfumer career in Italy. Nagel has worked with major luxury brands such as Fendi and Versace. Her collaboration with Francis Kurkdjian, Narciso Rodriguez for Her, won the Fragrance Foundation France Award for Best Women's Fragrance in 2003.
In addition to these contemporary perfumers, it is worth mentioning Tapputi-Belatekallim, history's first female chemist from the 13th century B.C. She gained fame as a perfumer for the king of Assyria, and excavations near Mesopotamia have revealed details of the ingredients and processes she used to create perfumes.
On the other hand, some of the most famous male perfumers and their notable clients include:
Francis Kurkdjian
French perfumer Francis Kurkdjian is considered France's newest cultural icon. He is known for creating bespoke fragrances for clients like Park Hyatt Hotels, under the Blaise Mautin label. Kurkdjian's scents are featured at Harrods in London, and he offers a bespoke perfume service with a starting price of $10,000 for 34 oz.
Jean-Claude Ellena
Jean-Claude Ellena is a French perfumer and writer born into a family of perfumers in Grasse, France. He began his career at the newly formed Givaudan in 1968. Ellena has created innovative fragrances for his own company, MFK, as well as for other companies, and his perfumes are worn and promoted by celebrities.
Dominique Ropion
Master perfumer Dominique Ropion is described as "prolific" by industry experts. He has created some of the most iconic fragrances of all time, including Alien by Mugler, Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf, and Portrait of a Lady by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle. Ropion's creations are admired by both the public and his peers in the industry.
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The business of perfume
At the heart of the perfume business are the perfumers themselves, the experts in creating perfume compositions. Perfumers are often referred to as "noses" due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. They are artists in their own right, capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods through their fragrances. Perfumers may work for large fragrance corporations, exclusive perfume houses, or their own companies. The creation process typically begins with a brief from an employer or customer, outlining the desired scent, the feelings it should evoke, and the budget. Perfumers then blend multiple mixtures, aiming to capture the desired emotions in the final product. This process can take months or even years, with many iterations and modifications along the way.
The top perfume manufacturers stand out through their innovation, expertise, and use of premium ingredients. They must also stay ahead of the curve, quickly reacting to changing consumer trends and preferences. For example, Givaudan, one of the oldest perfume makers founded in 1895, employs perfumers who create fragrances for leading brands like Calvin Klein and Dolce & Gabbana. They invest a significant portion of their annual turnover in research and discovering new ingredients. Another leading company, Takasago, is known for its strong research and innovation capabilities, collaborating with perfumers worldwide to develop unique scents for their clients.
The perfume industry is constantly evolving, with new production technologies and consumer trends shaping the market. One emerging trend is the focus on natural and organic perfumes, such as those made with whole ingredients, which are believed to have therapeutic benefits and are better suited for individuals with chemical sensitivities. Additionally, with the rise of disposable income, the demand for perfumes is growing, particularly in regions like the Asia Pacific (APAC). As a result, the business of perfume continues to adapt and innovate to meet the diverse needs and preferences of consumers worldwide.
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Frequently asked questions
A perfumer is an expert on creating perfume compositions, sometimes referred to as a "nose" due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. They are artists who convey abstract concepts and moods with compositions. They must have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each one alone or in combination with others.
Perfumers usually begin a project with a brief from their employer or customer, which contains the specifications for the desired perfume. This brief will describe what the perfume should smell like and the feelings it should evoke, along with a maximum price per litre of the perfume oil concentrate. Perfumers then go through the process of blending multiple mixtures to capture the desired feelings specified in the brief.
The world's first recorded chemist was a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker in Babylonian Mesopotamia around 1200 BCE. She developed methods for scent extraction that laid the basis for perfume-making. The use of perfume was also documented in the Islamic world as far back as the 6th century, and in the Bible, where a sacred perfume was described. In the 14th century, the cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence began in the south of France, and the town of Grasse became the centre of the perfume industry.
Some of the leading perfume manufacturers include Givaudan, International Flavours & Fragrances (IFF), Takasago, and Symrise. These companies operate their own perfumery schools. SOB Fragrance, based in China, is another prominent fragrance manufacturer, producing over 500,000 bottles of fragrances per day.
Living perfume is a natural perfume made with whole ingredients and created around a "phenolic matrix" or "perfume wine" that allows it to evolve over time. It is similar to wine in that it is alive from a microbiology standpoint. Living perfumes are believed to be better for those with chemical sensitivities.
