Seamus Hammond
Australian grooming brand Aesop has become well-known for its fragrances, with some describing it as a 'cult favourite'. The company's product development process has been described as methodical and scientific, and its original fragrances, Mystra and Marrakech, were the first to be developed with olfactory pleasure as their primary purpose. Aesop has since farewelled Mystra, redeveloped Marrakech, and introduced a further six fragrances to its range, each with distinctive inspirations and compositions. The brand's newest launch, Aurner, was envisioned as a non-conformist fragrance, centred around the tension and contrast between its vibrant key notes of magnolia leaf, Roman chamomile, and cedar heart. Aesop fragrances are developed in collaboration with perfumers such as Barnabé Fillion and Céline Barel.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of perfumes | 15 |
| Earliest edition | 2005 |
| Perfumers | Celine Barel, Barnabé Fillion |
| Fragrance families | Floral, fresh, woody, opulent |
| Perfumes | Tacit Eau de Parfum, Hwyl Eau de Parfum, Marrakech Intense Eau de Parfum, Aurner, Ouranon, Virēre Eau de Parfum, Gloam, Othertopias, Rozu, Eidesis |
| Country | Australia |
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What You'll Learn
Aesop's history of fragrance development
Aesop fragrances were initially developed in response to customer requests for perfumes or colognes that extended the notes of existing Aesop body care products. The company's product development process has always been methodical and scientific, and this approach was carried over into its exploration of personal fragrances.
The first fragrances, Mystra and Marrakech, were launched around fifteen years ago. Mystra was inspired by Byzantium and featured notes of labdanum, frankincense, and mastic. It was resinous and heady, a departure from the clean, floral, and cheerful perfumes that were popular at the time. Marrakech, in its original incarnation, was also a niche product, manufactured, macerated, and hand-filled in small batches in Aesop's Carlton laboratory. It contained high concentrations of sandalwood, rose, jasmine, and neroli oils.
The difficulty of working with concentrated essential oils is that they are volatile, and despite their potent aromatic presence when first applied, both Mystra and Marrakech evaporated too soon. To address this issue, Aesop began working with French nose Barnabé Fillion, who has a background in botany and phytotherapy. Barnabé deconstructed and rebuilt the original Marrakech fragrance, creating Marrakech Intense Eau de Toilette, which was launched to wide acclaim. This reimagined fragrance retained the spicy, floral warmth of its predecessor but offered greater permanence on the skin.
Since then, Aesop has continued to develop new fragrances, introducing a further six to its range, each with its own distinctive inspiration and composition. The company's newest launches include Aurner, a non-conformist fragrance centred around the tension and contrast between vibrant key notes of magnolia leaf, Roman chamomile, and cedar heart; and Tacit Eau de Parfum, a green, citrus perfume with notes of yuzu, vetiver heart, and basil.
Today, Aesop offers a full range of fragrances suited to all genders, taking inspiration from disparate sources such as the full lifecycle of a rose or the sights and spices of Marrakech.
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The brand's newest perfume, Aurner
Aesop is a brand that has become known as a cult favourite. Its product development process is methodical and scientific, driven by passion rather than the market. The brand's newest perfume, Aurner, is a floral fragrance crafted by perfumer Céline Barel, a long-term collaborator of the brand. The scent features notes of magnolia leaf, chamomile, and cedar, with a bold and genderless composition.
The name Aurner comes from an Old Norse verb meaning 'to be adorned, to be embellished with flowers', reflecting how the fragrance envelops the skin and empowers the wearer. It is a bright, clear, and comfortable fragrance that brings a smile to your face. With its dainty element, Aurner stands out from Aesop's current perfumes while retaining the herbal and botanical aspects typical of the brand.
Aurner is an addition to Aesop's range of fragrances, which includes both unisex and genderless scents. The brand's earliest fragrance was created in 2005, and its perfumes are developed in collaboration with perfumers such as Celine Barel, Barnabé Fillion, and Marc-Antione Barrois. Aesop's fragrances are inspired by disparate sources, such as the full lifecycle of a rose or the sights and spices of Marrakech.
The brand's perfume, Aurner, has received mixed reviews. Some describe it as a pleasant, high-quality, and long-lasting fragrance that brings something new to the brand's offerings. However, others find it disappointing, criticising its composition as uninspired and failing to develop throughout its lifecycle.
Despite these mixed reviews, Aurner by Aesop is an intriguing addition to the brand's fragrance collection, offering a unique take on floral scents.
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The science behind the formulation of Aurner
The science behind the formulation of Auner is a complex and intricate process that involves a combination of essential oils, botanical extracts, and scientific perfumery techniques.
Auner, a prestigious fragrance company, has developed a range of distinctive perfumes, each with its own unique inspiration and composition. The creation of each fragrance is a meticulous and scientific endeavour, with the company's product development process being described as methodical and systematic. This systematic approach involves adjusting the concentrations and compositions of pure essential oils, such as sandalwood, rose, jasmine, and neroli, to create aromas that are not only pleasing but also offer benefits to the hair and skin.
The early experiments at Auner were driven by customer requests to extend the notes of existing body care formulations. However, instead of rushing products to the mass market, as is often the case in the perfume industry, Auner took a passionate and scientific approach to developing their fragrances. This involved embracing the complexities of working with concentrated essential oils, which, despite their potent aromatic presence, can evaporate too soon.
To overcome this challenge, Auner drew on established perfumery science and collaborated with experts in the field, such as French nose Barnabé Fillion, who has a background in botany and phytotherapy. Through these collaborations, Auner was able to deconstruct and rebuild their fragrances, enhancing their permanence on the skin while retaining the original aromatic qualities. For example, the reimagined Marrakech Intense Eau de Toilette, with key notes of clove, sandalwood, and cardamom, offered greater longevity while preserving the spicy, floral warmth of the original Marrakech scent.
Furthermore, Auner's commitment to scientific formulation is evident in their attention to detail and patience. The development of the Tacit Eau de Parfum, for instance, spanned seven years, demonstrating the company's dedication to creating fragrances that are not only appealing but also long-lasting and beneficial to the wearer.
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The four families of Aesop fragrances
Aesop fragrances are developed to suit all genders and are inspired by disparate sources. The company's product development process is methodical and scientific, driven by passion rather than market trends. The brand initially sought to produce fragrances composed of pure essential oils, systematically adjusting their concentrations and compositions.
Aesop divides its scents into four fragrance families: floral, fresh, woody, and opulent. Each family has distinctive inspirations and compositions.
The floral family includes the Aurner Eau de Parfum, which is one of the brand's finest fragrances. It is described as having a triad of ingredients, including yuzu, vetiver, and basil, and is inspired by Wong Kar-wai's "In the Mood for Love."
The fresh family is described as green or crisp, reminiscent of freshly cut grass, herbs, or citrus fruits, and is clean and zesty. The Eidesis Eau de Parfum is the brand's best spicy fragrance, while the Virēre Eau de Parfum is its best verdant fragrance.
The woody family includes the award-winning Hwyl Eau de Parfum, which takes its name from the Welsh word meaning "a stirring sense of emotional motivation and energy." The fragrance is inspired by the silence and stillness of Japan's ancient Hinoki forests, with notes of cypress, frankincense, and vetiver.
The opulent family includes the Marrakech Intense Eau de Parfum, which is a reinterpretation of the original Marrakech fragrance. It features notes of clove, sandalwood, and cardamom, retaining the spicy, floral warmth of its predecessor while offering greater permanence on the skin.
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Perfumers Aesop has collaborated with
Aesop has collaborated with several perfumers to create its range of fragrances. The brand's first fragrance, Mystra, was launched in the early 2000s and was followed by Marrakech, which was manufactured, macerated, and hand-filled in Aesop's Carlton laboratory. The brand has since expanded its range to include several other fragrances, each with its own unique scent profile.
One of Aesop's notable collaborations is with French nose Barnabé Fillion, a botanist and phytotherapist. Barnabé Fillion helped redevelop the Marrakech Intense Eau de Toilette, which features key notes of clove, sandalwood, and cardamom. This fragrance retains the spicy, floral warmth of the original Marrakech scent while offering greater longevity on the skin. Barnabé Fillion's expertise in botany and phytotherapy likely contributed to the success of this reimagined fragrance.
Another perfumer that Aesop has collaborated with is Céline Barel. Together, they created the Tacit Eau de Parfum, a green and citrusy perfume with notes of yuzu, vetiver heart, and basil. This fragrance is described as evoking a sun-soaked afternoon in the English countryside. Céline Barel also played a role in developing the Aurner fragrance, which centers around the contrast between vibrant notes of magnolia leaf, Roman chamomile, and cedar heart.
Aesop has also worked with perfumers to create other unique fragrances. One such fragrance is Hwyl Eau de Parfum, a Welsh-inspired scent meaning "a stirring feeling of inspiration and emotional motivation." It is described as a deep, smoky, and meditative fragrance, inspired by the serene, earthy stillness of Japanese Hinoki forests. Another fragrance, Virēre Eau de Parfum, is described as verdant and fresh, offering a unique olfactory experience.
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Frequently asked questions
Aesop is an Australian grooming brand that makes perfumes and colognes. The company has described its product development process as methodical and scientific, driven by passion rather than the market.
Aesop divides its scents into four families: floral, fresh, woody, and opulent. Some of its perfumes include Tacit Eau de Parfum, Hwyl Eau de Parfum, and Marrakech Intense Eau de Parfum.
Aesop has worked with perfumers Celine Barel, Barnabé Fillion, and Barnabe Fillion and Céline Barel. Barnabé Fillion, for example, helped re-imagine the Marrakech Intense Eau de Toilette, which was launched to wide acclaim.
