The Alluring Scent Of Ode To Cologne

Cologne is a city in Germany that is known for its Gothic architecture, modern art, and 'singing beer'. It is also the namesake of a type of perfume, Eau de Cologne, which was originally mixed in the city in 1709 by Giovanni Maria Farina. The fragrance is characterised by its citrus notes and is typically made with a blend of extracts, alcohol, and water. In modern times, the term cologne has become a generic term for perfumes marketed towards men.

Cologne's cathedral

Cologne Cathedral, officially named Hohe Domkirche Sankt Petrus, is a Catholic cathedral in Cologne, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany. It is Germany's most visited landmark, attracting an average of 6 million people a year. It is a renowned monument of German Catholicism and Gothic architecture and was declared a World Heritage Site in 1996.

The construction of the cathedral began in 1248 but was halted in the years around 1560, unfinished. Attempts to complete the construction began around 1814, but the project was not properly funded until the 1840s. The edifice was finally completed to its original medieval plan in 1880, 632 years after construction had begun. The towers for its two huge spires give the cathedral the largest façade of any church in the world.

The cathedral is a Gothic masterpiece, with a projecting transept and a tower façade. The nave is 43.58m high, and the side aisles are 19.80m. The western section, nave and transept, begun in 1330, changes in style, but this is not perceptible in the overall building. The 19th-century work follows the medieval forms and techniques faithfully.

The cathedral contains many artistic masterpieces, including the Gero Crucifix of the late 10th century, in the Chapel of the Holy Cross, and the Shrine of the Magi (1180-1225), in the choir, which is the largest reliquary shrine in Europe. Other artistic masterpieces include the altarpiece of St Clare (c. 1350-1400) in the north aisle, the altarpiece of the City Patrons by Stephan Lochner (c. 1445) in the Chapel of Our Lady, and the altarpiece of St Agilolphus (c. 1520) in the south transept.

The cathedral is open to tourists on working days (Monday to Saturday) between 10 am and 5 pm and on Sundays between 1 pm and 4 pm. Visitors can climb the 533 steps to the viewing platform, which is about 100m above the ground, for a scenic view over the Rhine.

The city's cultural attractions

Cologne, Germany's fourth-largest city, is a cultural hub boasting a blend of architectural styles, religious sites, modern art, and unique culinary traditions. Here are some highlights of the city's cultural attractions:

Architectural Marvels

Cologne offers a fascinating mix of architectural styles, with 19th-century mansions, 1950s tiled houses, and modern steel-and-glass constructions coexisting in the city centre. The city is also known for its Romanesque churches and its iconic cathedral, the Dom. The Dom, built in 1248, is the fourth-tallest cathedral in the world and features a blend of Gothic architecture and modern art, including dreamy, pixelated stained-glass windows designed by Gerhard Richter.

Religious Sites

In addition to the Dom, Cologne is home to several other religious sites. One notable example is the chapel on Kolumbastrasse, which was created by architect Peter Zumthor from the remains of a church bombed during World War II. The museum inside the chapel houses religious art and incorporates the original ruins, allowing light patterns to play throughout the interiors during the day.

Modern Art

Cologne's Ludwig Museum, built in 1986, may not be aesthetically pleasing from the outside, but it houses one of Germany's most significant collections of modern art. The museum's interior is filled with natural light and showcases works by renowned artists such as Picasso and Kandinsky, as well as Pop Art pieces by Lichtenstein and Andy Warhol.

Culinary Delights

Cologne also offers a variety of culinary experiences that reflect the city's culture. The city is known for its kölsch beer, a light and hoppy brew that is deliberately over-yeasted, earning it the nickname "singing beer." Visitors can enjoy this local beverage in traditional beer halls, such as the 19th-century Paffgen, or in more modern settings like the Belgian Quarter, known for its pop-up bars and sustainable initiatives.

Cologne also boasts a diverse food scene, with options like the Michelin-starred NeoBiota, which offers a relaxed dining experience with a menu that includes dishes like pork with kimchi and Savoy cabbage. For those looking for a unique combination of laundry and libations, Cleanicum in the Belgian Quarter offers both a laundrette and a bar.

The Rhine at Cologne

Cologne's Romanesque churches and its famous cathedral, or "Dom", stand apart from the rest. The cathedral, built in 1248, is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, featuring arches and dreamy, pixelated stained-glass windows designed by Gerhard Richter. With its towering presence, it is the fourth-tallest cathedral in the world.

The Rhine also flows by the Belgian Quarter, a grid of streets known for its pop-up shops and sustainable initiatives. This vibrant neighbourhood offers a unique blend of environmental consciousness and entertainment, with laundry bars and restaurants like Hallmackenreuther, serving delicious German wines and carb-heavy dishes.

The river is also a stone's throw from Ehrenfeld, a former industrial area that has evolved into a hub of edginess and creativity. Ehrenfeld attracts a diverse crowd, including immigrants, students, millennials, and punk remnants, fostering a dynamic and inclusive atmosphere.

Cologne's connection to the Rhine goes beyond the visual. The city has a fine tradition of "kölsch", a light and hoppy beer that may owe its existence to the river's waters. Deliberately over-yeasted, kölsch is known as "singing beer", contributing to the city's lively and liberal atmosphere.

Cologne's breweries and beer halls

Cologne is known for its beer halls, or 'brauhauses' in German, where people gather to drink the local brew, 'Kölsch'. A clear, light, and crisp lager, Kölsch is warm-fermented with top-fermenting yeast and conditioned at cold temperatures. It is usually around 4 to 5% ABV, making it an easy-drinking beer.

A German brauhaus is a traditional drinking establishment that primarily offers locally brewed beer and German food. In Cologne, the beer is typically served in small, 0.2L glasses, and the waiters are known as 'Körbes' or 'Köbes'.

Früh Brauhaus

Früh is one of the most well-known Kölsch brands, and its main brauhaus is located near the cathedral in the Old Town. It is the second-largest brauhaus in Germany, sprawling across different buildings and floors with winding hallways and mismatched rooms. It offers a great, well-rounded Kölsch and is a popular choice for tourists and locals alike.

Address: Am Hof 12-18, 50667 Köln

Website: https://www.frueh-am-dom.de

Peter's Brauhaus

Peter's Brauhaus is a small, local favourite located in the Old Town. It is known for its smooth and crisp Kölsch, always served fresh from the tap. The drinking experience is complemented by friendly service and quality food, including delicious potato soup.

Address: Mühlengasse 1, 50667 Köln

Website: www.peters-brauhaus.de /

Brauerei Päffgen

Päffgen is one of the most famous names in Cologne, with a long history dating back to 1883. It is the oldest house brewery in the city, still brewing in its original location on Friesenstraße. The beer is brought directly from the aging barrel to your table, making it one of the purest Kölsch beers available. The brauhaus has a unique design with an open-air courtyard that looks into the brewery itself.

Address: Friesenstraße 64-66, 50670 Köln

Website: www.paeffgen-koelsch.de /

Brauhaus Sünner im Walfisch

Located in a building that has housed a brewery since 1476, Brauhaus Sünner im Walfisch is one of the oldest brauhauses in Cologne. The current building has a unique history, as it was carefully reconstructed in the 1930s using materials from another historic site. It is known for its signature "whale" lantern, which can still be seen today.

Address: Salzgasse 13, 50667 Köln

Website: http://www.walfisch.de /

Gaffel

Gaffel's brauhaus is located near the main train station and is definitely worth a visit. The brauhaus is a large, open room with a quintessential stained glass window pane, and the food is quite good. It's a perfect place to go before catching a train.

Address: Bahnhofsvorpl. 1, 50667 Köln

Website: https://www.gaffelamdom.de /

Brauerei zur Malzmühle

Brauerei zur Malzmühle is Cologne's second-oldest brewery, located just south of Heumarkt Square. It remains a genuine family brewery, currently managed by the fifth generation of the Schwartz family. The beer has a richer, hoppier flavour and is accompanied by traditional Cologne dishes such as "Himmel un Äd" (Heaven and Earth) and Halver Hahn (a rye bread roll with aged Gouda cheese and mustard).

Address: Heumarkt 6, 50667 Köln

Website: http://brauereizurmalzmuehle.de /

Haus Unkelbach

With a massive patio and a beer garden decorated in Cologne's city colours of red and white, Haus Unkelbach offers a fun and lively atmosphere. It serves Reissdorf Kölsch and traditional German food, including the famous onion soup recommended by a local tour guide. It is also known for its Karnival party, with live music and entertainment.

Address: Luxemburger Str. 260, 50937 Köln

Website: https://www.hausunkelbach.de /

These are just a few of the many brauhauses that contribute to Cologne's vibrant brewery culture. Each offers a unique experience, from the cosy and quaint to the lively and bustling. So, when in Cologne, be sure to raise a glass of Kölsch and join in the city's beloved beer tradition!

The city's art scene

Cologne's art scene is a vibrant and diverse mix of modern art, street art, and Gothic architecture. The city is known for its Romanesque churches and the Dom, the Cologne Cathedral, which blends Gothic arches with Gerhard Richter's dreamy, pixelated stained-glass windows.

The Ludwig Museum, built in 1986, houses one of Germany's most significant collections of modern art. The exterior may not be beautiful, but the light-filled interior feels serene, showcasing works by Picasso and Kandinsky, as well as a wall of Lichtensteins and numerous Andy Warhols.

Cologne also boasts a strong reputation in street art, with much of it found in the formerly industrial Ehrenfeld neighbourhood. A notable work is a painting of giant edelweiss under an arch in Ehrenfeld, commemorating the Edelweiss Pirates, a group that resisted Nazism during World War II.

The chapel on Kolumbastrasse is another unique art space. Architect Peter Zumthor transformed a church bombed by the Allies into a museum housing religious art. The museum acknowledges the city's past, as it's estimated that 90% of Cologne's centre was destroyed by Allied attacks during the war.

Cologne's art scene also extends to its breweries, with the small brewery, Braustelle, in Ehrenfeld, and the 19th-century Paffgen, located on Friesenstrasse, which still brews on-site.

Frequently asked questions