Katrina Rosales
Perfume bottles are designed by artists and designers, and their work is an integral part of the fragrance's success. The design of the bottle is the first form of communication and contact that consumers have with the scent. Fabien Baron, a legendary designer, photographer, and filmmaker, has stated that designing a beautiful bottle is not enough; it must match the history, values, and psyche of the brand and align with a cultural moment. This collaboration between artists and fragrance houses has been occurring since 1908 when avant-garde artist Kazimir Malevich designed a Severny Cologne bottle. Other notable artist-designed perfume bottles include Salvador Dali's Le Roi Soleil, which was inspired by a watercolour artwork named King Sun, and the recent partnership between Dries Van Noten and 19th-century French fragrance glassmakers Stoelzle Masnieres Parfumerie, which resulted in a chromatic array of luminous glass bottles.
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What You'll Learn
Artist-designer collaborations
The design of a perfume bottle is just as important as the fragrance it contains. The bottle's design is the first thing that resonates with consumers and helps them form a connection with the brand. Artist-designer collaborations have been an integral part of the perfume industry since the early 20th century, with artists leaving their signature stamps on perfume bottles.
One of the earliest examples of artist-designer collaborations in perfume bottle designing was in 1908 when avant-garde artist and theorist Kazimir Malevich was commissioned to design a Severny Cologne bottle. Malevich created a semi-opaque glass bottle in the form of a textured iceberg with a crystal stopper shaped like a polar bear perched on top. This bottle design was one of the earliest crossovers between the fragrance and art worlds.
Another notable collaboration is the partnership between French fragrance house Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie and renowned fashion designer Dries Van Noten, who created a chromatic array of luminous glass bottles. Similarly, India Mahdavi reimagined Dior's iconic J'Adore fragrance bottle in 2021, and Frank Gehry designed a sculptural crinkled cap for Louis Vuitton's Les Extraits perfume collection. These collaborations showcase the power of merging artistic vision with fragrance.
Additionally, the Surrealist painter and designer Leonor Fini collaborated with the famous Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli in 1937 to create the curvaceous bottle for her beloved 'Shocking!' fragrance. This partnership blended the worlds of art and fragrance, drawing inspiration from Schiaparelli's friendship with Salvador Dali and other surrealist artists.
The convergence of art and perfume has led to exciting collaborations between renowned artists and perfume brands, adding a unique and collectible aspect to the fragrance market. These partnerships not only enhance the aesthetic appeal of the perfume but also create a harmonious blend of two distinct art forms.
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Kazimir Malevich's Severny Cologne bottle
In 1908, the director of the Russian "Brocard and Co" perfume factory, Alexander Genrikhovich Brocard, commissioned a bottle design for "Severny Cologne" from the then-little-known avant-garde artist Kazimir Malevich. Malevich, who was poor and in need of money, designed a semi-opaque glass bottle in the form of a textured iceberg with a crystal stopper in the shape of a polar bear perched on top. The jagged shape of the bottle, with its etched lines, seemed to loosely align with Malevich's Cubo-Futurist style at the time.
Malevich also created a perfume label and advertising posters, but he seemed embarrassed by this work, seeing it as a means to an end rather than immortal art. In fact, he never spoke about it, and the fact that he designed the bottle was only discovered in the 21st century. Production of the refreshing citrus cologne began in 1911 and continued in Soviet times at the same factory, which was renamed the Novaya Zarya factory after nationalisation. The cologne was discontinued in 1996.
The original design of the Severny bottle was altered over the years. By the mid-1960s, the polar bear stopper had been replaced by a beaver. The relief, which had been an imitation of ice cracks, was also simplified, and the label was changed to a plain foil oval.
The bottle was so iconic that vintage perfume collectors now compete with Malevich admirers at auctions to get their hands on one.
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Salvador Dali's Le Roi Soleil
The bottle design itself is a true work of art, created by the renowned artist Salvador Dali at the request of the Schiaparelli company. The bottle is made from Baccarat crystal and features a striking stopper in the shape of a flaming sun. This design draws inspiration from Dali's watercolour artwork, "King Sun" (1945), which depicted black birds flying over the sea, symbolising freedom for the French people. The bottle also references the Place Vendôme, where Maison Schiaparelli was based, and the statue of Louis XIV, the fragrance's namesake, that once stood there.
Le Roi Soleil is considered one of the most famous and valuable perfume bottles ever produced by an artist. It captures the essence of postwar Paris and celebrates the city's rich history and culture. The design is a true collector's item, with only 2,000 copies made, and its motif has been reused in subsequent fragrances by the Salvador Dali brand, including Le Roi Soleil Homme and Black Sun.
The collaboration between Salvador Dali and the Schiaparelli company is a testament to the power of creative partnerships between artists and fragrance houses. This union resulted in a truly exceptional perfume bottle that has left an enduring legacy in the world of perfumery and reinforced the importance of bottle design in the success of a fragrance.
Le Roi Soleil by Salvador Dali is a testament to the artist's creativity and a shining example of how perfume bottles can become iconic works of art that captivate the senses and leave a lasting impression.
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Rene Lalique's factory
The name Lalique evokes the brilliance of jewellery, the wonder of transparency, and the brilliance of crystal. Before it became a brand name, it was the name of a man, René-Jules Lalique, and that of his descendants, who shared his creative flame.
René Lalique was born in 1860 in Aÿ-en-Champagne in the Marne region of France. The Lalique family later moved to Paris but continued to spend holidays in Aÿ. René Lalique remained deeply attached to his birthplace throughout his life. He became a master glassmaker and jeweller, with a unique and instantly recognisable style that was a major influence on the Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements.
In 1876, Lalique took up an apprenticeship with a leading Parisian jeweller and goldsmith, Louis Aucoc. He studied at the Ecole des Arts Décoratifs de Paris and spent two years in England before becoming a freelance designer for jewellers. In 1885, he took over Jules Destapes' atelier in Paris and became a full-fledged jeweller. Horn, ivory, semi-precious stones, enamel and glass were among the materials that had been little used in jewellery before Lalique began working with them.
In 1900, Lalique triumphed at the Exposition Universelle in Paris, marking the height of his career as a master jeweller. However, this success brought with it a wave of imitations, which Lalique did not appreciate. In 1907, he met the famous perfumer François Coty, and began creating perfume bottles for specific perfumes, both for Coty and other perfumers. For the first time in the history of the perfume industry, the bottle had a direct symbolic link with its contents. In 1913, Lalique bought the Combs-la-Ville Glassworks, where he began focusing on techniques that allowed him to produce in large quantities, reducing costs and making his creations more affordable.
In 1921, Lalique decided to build a new factory at Wingen-sur-Moder in the Northern Vosges region. He knew he would find skilled workers and benefit from financial incentives offered by the French government after the First World War. The factory has been constantly modernised over the years, but the artisans' techniques have remained unchanged: the material is worked by hand, moulded, and the molten crystal is gathered, pressed, or blown. Once cooled, it is cut, sanded, and polished. This is the Lalique artisans' trademark: the famous satin-polished finish of the crystal, which generates an effect that combines light and shadow.
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Perfume bottle as art
Perfume bottles have long been considered an art form, with their design often requiring the same level of creativity and deliberation as the fragrance itself. The shape, colour, and material of a perfume bottle can all contribute to its artistic value, making it a collector's item or a display piece.
The history of artist-designed perfume bottles can be traced back to the early 20th century, with one of the earliest examples being the 1908 commission of avant-garde artist Kazimir Malevich to design a bottle for Severny Cologne. Malevich created a semi-opaque glass bottle in the shape of an iceberg, topped with a crystal stopper in the form of a polar bear. This unique design set a precedent for the collaboration between fragrance houses and artists, which continues to this day.
Another notable example of an artist-designed perfume bottle is the 1937 "Shocking!" fragrance bottle by Surrealist painter and designer Leonor Fini for Elsa Schiaparelli. The curvaceous bottle reflected the innovative and experimental nature of the fragrance. Similarly, the iconic French fashion designer herself, Elsa Schiaparelli, collaborated with her friend, the Surrealist artist Salvador Dalí, to create a bottle celebrating postwar Paris. The bottle, named "King Sun", referenced the Place Vendôme, where Maison Schiaparelli was based, and featured a Baccarat crystal bottle with a flaming sun stopper.
In recent years, artist-designed perfume bottles have continued to gain popularity, with fashion houses partnering with renowned artists to create unique and memorable bottles. For instance, Dries Van Noten collaborated with 19th-century French fragrance glassmakers, Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie, to create a chromatic array of luminous glass bottles. Additionally, James Turrell teamed up with French glassmaker Lalique to create two obelisk-like crystal decanters, marking the artist's first foray into perfumery.
The artistic design of a perfume bottle is not just an aesthetic choice but also a strategic one. In an era where consumers often experience fragrances online, the visual appeal of the bottle becomes crucial in engaging their senses and interest. As Fabien Baron, a legendary designer, explains, the bottle is "the first form of communication and the first form of contact that people have with the scent". Therefore, the story and cohesive message conveyed by the bottle's design are essential for the success of the fragrance.
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Frequently asked questions
The iconic Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle was designed by Mademoiselle Chanel.
The bottle for Nina Ricci's L'Air du Temps was designed by Marc Lalique, son of the renowned glass sculptor René Lalique.
The curvaceous bottle for Schiaparelli's Shocking! fragrance was designed by Surrealist painter and designer Leonor Fini in 1936/1937.
The Skyscraper perfume bottle was designed by Rene Lalique in 1929.
The bottle for Ambre Antique was designed by Rene Lalique, who was responsible for designing several other bottles for Coty fragrances.
