Patchouli is a scent that divides opinion. It is derived from the Pogostemon cablin plant, a bushy perennial herb with purple-white flowers, native to Southeast Asia. Its aroma is earthy, woody, spicy, and slightly sweet, with a musky undertone. It is commonly used as a base note in fragrances, adding depth and longevity.
While some people associate patchouli with the hippie movement of the 1960s and 1970s, it is also a staple in high-end perfumes, adding richness and a sense of luxury. It pairs well with a variety of notes, including rose, vanilla, sandalwood, and citrus, making it a versatile ingredient in both men's and women's fragrances.
Some popular fragrances that feature patchouli include:
- Patchouli Absolu by Tom Ford Gentleman
- Eau de Parfum by Givenchy
- La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Patchouli Imperial by Dior
- Chance Eau de Parfum by Chanel
- Monsieur by Frederic Malle
- Angel Muse by Mugler
- Flowerbomb by Viktor&Rolf
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Scientific name | Pogostemon cablin |
Other names | Patch, Pogostemon patchouli |
Plant type | Flowering plant, member of the mint family |
Plant appearance | Bushy, with large furry leaves and purple-white flowers |
Plant origin | Southeast Asia, North East India |
Oil origin | Indonesia (90% of global volume) |
Fragrance family | Woody, ambery, fougère, chypre |
Fragrance notes | Earthy, spicy, sweet, musky, woody, smoky, herbal, medicinal |
Fragrance combinations | Citrus, floral, vanilla, rose, lavender, geranium, sandalwood, vetiver, bergamot |
Effect | Aphrodisiac, therapeutic, mood-enhancing, anxiety-relieving |
Popular fragrances containing patchouli | Angel by Mugler, Flowerbomb by Viktor&Rolf, Patchouli Absolu by Tom Ford Gentleman, Eau de Parfum by Givenchy, Patchouli Imperial by Dior, Chance Eau de Parfum by Chanel, Monsieur by Frederic Malle |
What You'll Learn
Colognes with patchouli as a base note
Patchouli is a bushy flowering plant native to Southeast Asia and Northeast India. Its oil is commonly used as a base note in perfumes, providing depth and longevity to the fragrance.
Angel Muse by Mugler
Angel Muse by Mugler is an amber vanilla fragrance for women. It features top notes of pink pepper and grapefruit, with base notes of patchouli and vetiver. This combination creates a balance between sweet and earthy accords.
Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Patchouli
Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Patchouli is a woody fragrance for women and men. It captures the cool, aloof woodiness of patchouli, with a clean and soft edge. This fragrance showcases the versatility of patchouli, as it can be paired with both masculine and feminine notes.
Flowerbomb by Viktor&Rolf
Flowerbomb is an explosive amber floral fragrance for women, featuring a bouquet of fresh and sweet notes. It opens with top notes of bergamot and green tea, followed by a floral heart, and concludes with milky and powdery base notes of patchouli and musk.
Patchouli Absolu by Tom Ford Gentleman
This cologne by Tom Ford showcases the versatility of patchouli, as it can be used to create sophisticated and luxurious fragrances. While patchouli is often associated with the hippie movement of the 1960s and 1970s, it has evolved to become a staple in high-end perfumes.
Eau de Parfum by Givenchy
Givenchy's Eau de Parfum is another example of how patchouli can be used in sophisticated and luxurious fragrances. While some may find the scent of patchouli overpowering, when used in the right amount, it adds elegance and depth to the composition.
Chanel Chance Eau de Parfum
Chanel's Chance Eau de Parfum is a popular fragrance that features patchouli as a base note. While some people may find the scent of patchouli too earthy or intense, others appreciate its richness and versatility.
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Chypre and powdery fragrances with patchouli
Chypre fragrances are defined by their woody character and are built around a woody, mossy accord. They are known for their strong base notes, with top and heart notes that are more discreet. Chypre fragrances are ideal for those seeking a unique, intense, and charismatic scent.
The classic Chypre note is a blend of bergamot, jasmine, rose, patchouli, tree moss, labdanum, and animal notes. Chypre fragrances can be dressed up with different facets, such as a green facet, as seen in Miss Dior by Dior, a fruity facet, as in Guerlain's Mitsouko, or a floral facet, as in Clinique Aromatics Elixir.
In contemporary chypre fragrances, oak moss and labdanum have been replaced by patchouli due to the IFRA's ban on these materials. This substitution gives the chypre accord a more modern feel.
- Patchouli Absolu by Tom Ford Gentleman
- Eau de Parfum by Givenchy
- La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Patchouli Imperial by Dior
- Chance Eau de Parfum by Chanel
- Monsieur by Frederic Malle
- Chypre Sublime Eau De Parfum by Floral Street
Powdery fragrances are known for their soft, subtle, and smooth characteristics. They evoke a sense of comfort and elegance. While the term "powdery" may bring to mind the idea of talcum powder, these fragrances offer a more sophisticated and nuanced interpretation.
Patchouli is a versatile ingredient that adds depth and complexity to powdery fragrances. It blends seamlessly with other notes, enhancing their softness and warmth.
- Angel by Thierry Mugler: This oriental vanilla fragrance for women strikes a perfect balance between patchouli and sweeter notes like vanilla and caramel.
- Flora Gorgeous Gardenia by Gucci: This fragrance has top notes of Italian mandarin, blossom accord, and red berries, heart notes of white gardenia and jasmine, and base notes of patchouli and brown sugar accord.
- Noir De Noir by Tom Ford: This sophisticated and seductive fragrance blends powdery soft floral notes with a hint of black truffle and a dark, leathery finish.
- Flowerbomb by Viktor&Rolf: This classic floral fragrance has base notes of patchouli, musk, and vanilla, adding depth to its soft and feminine scent.
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How patchouli is blended with other scents
Patchouli is a versatile scent that can be blended with a variety of other fragrances to create unique and sophisticated perfumes. While it is a member of the mint family, patchouli does not smell like mint. Instead, it has an earthy, spicy, and slightly sweet aroma with woody, musky, and camphoraceous notes. Its versatility allows it to be used as a base note in a wide range of fragrances, from woody and ambery to chypre and fougère.
When paired with lighter, floral, or citrus scents, patchouli creates enticing, fresh accords. For example, it blends well with rose, jasmine, orange, lavender, and geranium. Patchouli is also an excellent match for sweet scents such as vanilla. The versatility of patchouli is why it can be found in candles, perfumes, cosmetics, detergents, and more.
In fine fragrances, patchouli is often used as a base note to add depth and sophistication. It is commonly paired with other woodsy notes like sandalwood and vetiver, as well as citrus notes like bergamot. The result is a complex and multidimensional fragrance that is both mysterious and inviting.
Additionally, patchouli has therapeutic benefits and is commonly used in aromatherapy to calm emotions, elevate the mood, and relieve anxiety. Its scent is closely associated with love and romance, and it has been used as an aphrodisiac for centuries.
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The history of patchouli
Centuries later, patchouli made its way to the Middle East along the silk trading routes, with adventurers using it to protect their silks, spices, and other goods from moths and insects. It is said that Napoleon was the first to bring patchouli to Europe, where it quickly became recognised for its rich, exotic scent. Frenchwomen in the 19th century wore patchouli-scented shawls, starting a fashion trend that made patchouli desirable as a fragrance ingredient.
In the 1800s, patchouli was a valuable commodity, with traders exchanging a pound of patchouli for a pound of gold. It was associated with high fashion and wealth, and its use as an insect repellent kept bugs away from garments during transport.
However, patchouli is most famous for being a defining scent of the counterculture movement in 1960s and 1970s America. Its calming, earthy aroma was popular among free-spirited "hippies", who also used it to mask the smell of marijuana. The essential oil, created through steam distillation of the leaves, became a common note in many fragrances of the time.
Today, patchouli is found in some of the world's most luxurious and sophisticated perfumes, candles, and cosmetics. Its versatility and rich, earthy aroma continue to make it a popular ingredient in perfumery and aromatherapy.
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The scent profile of patchouli
Patchouli is a scent that divides opinion. It's been described as "the scent of the 60s", with the essential oil often being worn neat by the youth of that time. It's a scent that people tend to either love or hate.
Patchouli is a species of flowering plant in the Lamiaceae family, more commonly known as the mint or deadnettle family. It is a bushy perennial herb with small, pale pink-white flowers and fragrant leaves. The name comes from the old Tamil words patchai, meaning "green", and ellai, meaning "leaf". It is native to Southeast Asia and Northeast India, with Indonesia producing over 90% of the world's patchouli oil.
The scent of patchouli is earthy, spicy, and slightly sweet, with a woody, musky edge. It is often associated with the smell of health food stores. Some people find it too overpowering, comparing it to the smell of a cold basement, a wet dog, or an unbathed hippie. However, when blended correctly, patchouli can form an exquisite base note for sophisticated fragrances. It pairs well with citrusy notes like bergamot, floral notes like lavender and geranium, and other woodsy notes like sandalwood and vetiver.
In aromatherapy, patchouli is believed to have calming and mood-boosting properties, helping to relieve anxiety and acting as an aphrodisiac.
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