Cologne Carnival: Best Places To Experience The Festivities

The Cologne Carnival, or Kölner Karneval, is a celebration that takes place annually in Cologne, Germany. It is one of the biggest festivals in Germany, attracting over 2 million visitors each year. The carnival is a week-long series of street parties, parades, and special events. The festivities officially kick off on November 11 at 11:11 am, but the main events occur in the days leading up to Shrove Tuesday, also known as Fat Tuesday, and the start of Lent. The carnival is famous for its elaborate costumes, infectious fun vibes, and the grand Rose Monday Parade.

If you're planning to attend the Cologne Carnival, there are a few key things you should know. First, it's important to dress up in a colourful costume. You can expect to do a lot of walking and dancing, so comfortable and waterproof shoes are a must. The carnival also involves a lot of drinking, so be prepared for crowded and messy bars and streets. It's a good idea to have a urination game plan and know the laws of Kölsch, the local beer. Finally, don't forget to learn some essential carnival lingo, like Kölle Alaaf!, the traditional greeting during the festival.

There are several key events during the Cologne Carnival that are worth highlighting. The first is Weiberfastnacht, or Fat Thursday, which is considered the official opening day of the street carnival. This is a day for the ladies, as women run around cutting men's neckties off while planting little kisses on their cheeks. The second key event is Rosenmontag, or Rose Monday, when over 1 million people come into the city to celebrate. This is the day of the world-famous parade, which features over 10,000 participants in costumes, marching bands, and beautifully designed floats. The third key event is Veilchendienstag, or Violet Tuesday, when the partying starts to wind down and the Nubbel, a straw effigy, is burned to mark the end of the carnival season.

The Alter Markt

The architecture surrounding the Alter Markt reflects various periods and styles. The beautiful tower of the Rathaus (City Hall), built in the 1330s, borders one side of the square. It is Germany's oldest city hall still in use. Other notable buildings include the Groß St Martin Church, one of twelve famous Romanesque churches in Cologne's old town, and the Stapelhaus, a Renaissance masterpiece.

The Geisterzug (Ghost Parade)

The Geisterzug, or "Ghost Train", is a macabre procession that takes place on the Saturday night of the Carnival in Cologne. This ghoulish parade of ghosts and ghouls winds its way through the city centre, with revellers in spooky costumes encouraged to join the procession. The parade starts at 6 pm on Venloer Str and finishes on Breite Str/Apostelnstr.

The Geisterzug is different from the other parades of the Carnival, and while it may be finished by 9 pm, it is still possible to enjoy the atmosphere and the after-party in the nearby city centre, which is only a 5-10 minute walk away.

The Carnival in Cologne is a citywide party that lasts for 6 days and nights, ending on the Thursday before Lent. It is the biggest Carnival celebration in Europe, with over 2 million visitors expected at the major parade. The whole city dresses up and joins in the street parties, parades and special events.

Each day of the Carnival has a different theme, with the main parade taking place on Rosenmontag (Rose Monday). This parade features over 200 floats, wagons, trailers and cars, with approximately 13,000 participants. The floats often depict current political and social themes in a darkly humorous way.

The Carnival is also a time for music, with local bands writing and producing music specifically dedicated to the Carnival. There are over 10,000 songs about the Carnival and the city of Cologne, with new songs added each year.

The Nubbelverbrennung (Burning of the Nubbel)

The Nubbelverbrennung, or the Burning of the Nubbel, is a traditional carnival ceremony that marks the end of the carnival celebrations in Cologne. The Nubbel is a straw puppet or doll that is hung from a lantern, window, or above the door in pubs during the carnival season. It is a scapegoat that symbolically represents the sins and wrongdoings committed during the carnival days.

On Veilchendienstag, the day before Ash Wednesday, the Nubbel is burned in many pubs and breweries and in public squares across the city. Each district can host its own Nubbelverbrennung, with the largest taking place in the Roonstraße. The ceremony involves a procession, music, and the reading of an indictment or charge, often in rhyme and in the local dialect. The Nubbel is then absolved of all guilt for past misdeeds before being burned at midnight, symbolising the end of carnival and a cleansing ritual to drive away the excesses of the previous days.

The tradition of burning a figure at the end of the carnival dates back to at least the 19th century. The exact sequence of events can vary, but the Nubbel is usually placed on the facade of pubs at the start of the street carnival on Weiberfastnacht and then carried in a short parade around the block to its "grave" on Shrove Tuesday at midnight.

The Dreigestirn (Prince, Peasant, Maiden)

The Dreigestirn, or triumvirate, are a trio of characters – a prince, a peasant, and a maiden – who act as the mascots or leaders of the Cologne Carnival. They are also referred to as the 'three stars'. The Dreigestirn fully embody the Carnival spirit, attending events throughout the Carnival season, and featuring prominently in the parade and during concerts. It is considered a big deal to be selected as one of the Dreigestirn, with people waiting years on a waiting list for their chance.

The prince, also called 'Seine Tollität' (His Madness), is the most important personage of the Carnival. His float is the final one in the large parade on Shrove Monday. The prince's attributes include a crown with a peacock tail, a sceptre, and a slapstick—a symbol of the fool and of the princely reign over his people during the Carnival.

The peasant, or 'Seine Deftigkeit' (His Heftyness), expresses the boldness of the old privileged imperial city of Cologne. The sword and the flail he carries symbolise his loyalty to the empire and his truthfulness. As the keeper of the city, the peasant also carries the city keys at his girdle.

The maiden, or 'Ihre Lieblichkeit' (Her Loveliness), symbolises the patronising mother Colonia and is traditionally played by a man. From 1936 to 1943, the maiden was ordered by Nazi authorities to be played by a real woman. The maiden wears a mural crown, symbolising the impregnability of the city, and carries a hand mirror, representing 'female vanity'.

The Veedelszüge (Local Parades)

The Veedelszüge, or the smaller local Carnival parades, are held in the various neighbourhoods on Saturday. The Sunday and Monday parades follow very similar routes, and anywhere close to Heumarkt, the Rhine, and the Dom is likely to be very crowded. The Sunday parade takes place from about 11 am to 2.30 pm. The Sunday parade is a day for families, but it is also one of the most fun events! Locals far outnumber tourists as mums and dads watch children parade with their schools and neighbourhood associations. The best groups are then allowed to participate in the Rose Monday parade, the largest and most famous.

The Rose Monday parade is a lot busier than the one on Sunday, and streets that were manageable on Sunday are jam-packed. The parade features around 11,000 participants, 100 music groups, and numerous giant and elaborately designed floats, distributing flowers and sweets to the crowd. After the Rose Monday parade ends, celebrations continue well into the night in the city's many halls, restaurants, breweries, and pubs.

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