Paco Rabanne: The Year His Iconic Cologne Was Born

Paco Rabanne, born Francisco Rabaneda Cuervo, was a Spanish-born, naturalised-French fashion designer who rose to fame in the 1960s for his use of unconventional materials such as metal and plastic in his clothing designs. In addition to his work in the fashion industry, Rabanne was also known for his fragrances. In 1968, he began collaborating with the fragrance company Puig, which led to the release of his first and arguably most popular scent, Calandre, in 1969. This was followed by his first men's fragrance, Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, in 1973.

Paco Rabanne's first fragrance, Calandre, was released in 1969

> Imagine it’s spring. A rich young man arrives in his E-type Jaguar to pick up his girlfriend. Imagine the scent of fast air, speed and leather seats. He takes the girl for a ride along the seaside. He stops in a forest. There he makes love to her on the bonnet of his car.

The name Calandre is French for a car's radiator grille, and the bottle, designed by Pierre Dinand, was encased in metal, with a high-tech look that was 20 years ahead of its time.

Calandre is still available today, and it is considered an iconic, timeless scent.

Paco Rabanne Pour Homme was launched in 1973

The nose behind this fragrance is Jean Martel. Top notes are rosemary, clary sage and Brazilian rosewood; middle notes are lavender, geranium and tonka bean; base notes are oakmoss, honey, musk, amber and tobacco.

The fragrance is described as a timeless classic, blending herbal, woody and aromatic notes. It is considered a refined, masculine scent with excellent longevity.

Paco Rabanne, born Francisco Rabaneda y Cuervo, was a Spanish-born, naturalised-French fashion designer. He rose to prominence in the 1960s for his use of unconventional materials such as metal and plastic in his clothing designs. He founded his own fashion house in 1966, and his debut collection, '12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials', turned the fashion world on its head.

In 1968, Rabanne began collaborating with the fragrance company Puig, which resulted in the company marketing his perfumes. In addition to his fashion work, Rabanne was known for his fragrances, creating a number of highly successful scents.

Paco Rabanne fragrances are produced in collaboration with Puig

In 1973, Paco Rabanne introduced his first men's fragrance, Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, which was the first aromatic scent on the market. This was followed by XS Pour Elle in 1995, a soft floral fragrance, and Paco, his first unisex fragrance, in 1996, presented in a recyclable metal bottle. Paco Rabanne continued to innovate with the creation of Paco Energy in 1997 and Ultraviolet perfume for women in 1998. The men's version of Ultraviolet cologne was launched in 2001.

Other notable Paco Rabanne fragrances include Eau De Paco Rabanne Cologne, La Nuit Perfume for Women, Liquid Crystal Perfume, Liquid Metal Cologne, Metal Perfume, Paco Energy Body Lotion, Paco Energy Cologne, Paco Pour Elle, Paco Rabanne Sport, Paco Unisex, and Xs Extreme Girl.

The brand has since released several other fragrances, including the popular 1 Million and Lady Million. The latter is recognisable for its distinctive golden bottles. As of 28 June 2023, the first name Paco was dropped from the line, which is now known simply as Rabanne.

Paco Rabanne was born Francisco Rabaneda y Cuervo in 1934, in Pasaïa, Spain

Paco Rabanne, born Francisco Rabaneda y Cuervo, came into this world in 1934 in Pasaïa, Spain. His birth year was a turbulent one, with the world still recovering from the Great Depression and the rise of totalitarian regimes in Europe. Francisco's early years were marked by tragedy and upheaval as his father, a Republican Colonel, was executed by Francoist troops during the Spanish Civil War.

Despite this early trauma, Francisco's mother, a talented seamstress, ensured that they escaped the Spanish Civil War by fleeing to France in 1939 when he was just five years old. It was at this time that he took on the name "Paco Rabanne," signalling a new beginning and a step towards his future iconic status.

In the mid-1950s, while studying architecture in Paris, Rabanne began earning money by creating fashion and shoe sketches for renowned houses such as Dior, Givenchy, and Charles Jourdan. This marked the beginning of his journey into the world of fashion and design, where he would later become a revolutionary force.

Rabanne's big break came in 1966 when he founded his own fashion house. He challenged traditional norms by using unconventional materials such as metal, paper, and plastic in his designs, earning him the moniker "enfant terrible" of the fashion world. His debut collection, "12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials," shocked and intrigued the industry, putting him firmly on the map.

In addition to his groundbreaking fashion work, Rabanne also ventured into fragrances. In 1968, he began collaborating with the perfume company Puig, which led to the launch of his first scent, "Calandre," in 1969. This fragrance, meant for the active woman, was a cypress-heavy perfume that was considered revolutionary for its time.

Paco Rabanne, the man born Francisco Rabaneda y Cuervo in Pasaïa, Spain, in 1934, went on to become a legendary fashion designer and perfumer. His use of unconventional materials and futuristic elements not only transformed the fashion industry but also left an enduring impact on the world of fragrances.

Paco Rabanne's debut collection was titled '12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials'

Paco Rabanne's debut collection, titled "12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials", was presented in 1966. This collection established Rabanne as a fashion revolutionary, turning the fashion world upside down with his use of unconventional materials and designs.

Rabanne's background in architecture and work with reinforced concrete influenced his interest in creating fashion with imaginative production methods and novel postwar industrial materials. He pioneered the recycling of materials in clothing, using hammered metal, knitted fur, aluminium jersey, fibreglass, and fluorescent leather. His sculptural micromini dresses, constructed of square and rectangular aluminium plates joined with metal rings, alluded to chain mail and established his signature space-age aesthetic.

The "12 Unwearable Dresses" collection was a radical departure from traditional couture techniques, reflecting the exploratory and experimental sensibility of 1960s avant-garde fashion. Rabanne's use of aluminium, in particular, was a notable choice for a fashion collection, and his designs were considered "unwearable" due to their innovative construction and unconventional materials. Despite this, many of these dresses remain contemporary in their appearance even decades later.

In addition to his use of aluminium, Rabanne also utilised other materials such as paper, plastic, and leather in his designs. He created flamboyant and outlandish looks, including mini-skirted metallic dresses, that gained him notoriety for his space-age style. Rabanne's debut collection put him on the map, and he was named one of the "fashion revolutionaries" by Women's Wear Daily in 1966, alongside other iconic designers such as Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent.

The "12 Unwearable Dresses" collection not only showcased Rabanne's talent for fashion but also his ability to blend historical elements with futuristic aesthetics. This blend was particularly notable in the chain mail dress, which combined medieval armour references with a futuristic, space-age look. Rabanne's innovative use of materials and designs in this collection set a new standard for fashion, challenging the boundaries of what was considered wearable and paving the way for future explorations in avant-garde and unconventional fashion.

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