
When making hot process soap, it is important to consider when to add fragrance to prevent it from fading or changing. While there is no definitive rule, adding fragrance after the soap has cooked and slightly cooled is recommended, as adding fragrance to hot soap can cause it to evaporate or steam away. To prevent this, some soap makers use additives such as kaolin clay or colloidal oatmeal to help anchor the fragrance and increase its longevity. Additionally, the amount of fragrance added is crucial, with the recommended amount being 15-20g of fragrance oil per kilogram of fats/oils in the recipe.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Amount of fragrance oil to add | 15-20g of fragrance oil for every kilogram of fats/oils in the recipe |
| When to add fragrance oil | After the soap has cooked and slightly cooled |
| Temperature to add fragrance oil | Below the flashpoint of the oil |
| How to mix | By hand |
| Temperature while mixing | At or below 38°C (100°F) |
| Additives | Kaolin clay, colloidal oatmeal, soft botanicals, and calendula petals |
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What You'll Learn

Add fragrance after the soap has cooked and cooled
When making hot process soap, it is recommended to add the fragrance after the soap has cooked and cooled. This is because the fragrance can evaporate or burn off if added while the soap is still hot, resulting in a weaker scent or even a total loss of fragrance.
To ensure the fragrance doesn't dissipate, it is best to let the soap cool to below 180° F (82° C). This can take some time, so you can cover the soap with plastic wrap while you wait. Once the soap has cooled sufficiently, you can add your chosen fragrance oil or essential oil. It is recommended to use 15-20g of fragrance oil for every kilogram of fats/oils in your recipe.
It is also important to note that some fragrances may cause the soap to accelerate or thicken quickly, so it is advisable to have your colours and additives ready to mix in before pouring the soap into moulds. This technique helps to prevent a "soap volcano," where the soap starts to bubble out of the mould due to overheating.
Additionally, some fragrances may change the appearance of your soap, such as turning it brown or causing soda ash. Therefore, it is always recommended to test a small batch of soap with your chosen fragrance first and adjust your recipe if necessary. Using recipes with a large percentage of soft oils (oils that are liquid at room temperature) can also help to prevent issues with certain fragrances.
By following these steps and adding the fragrance after the soap has cooked and cooled, you can create a beautifully scented and well-behaved batch of hot process soap.
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Use the right amount of fragrance oil
When making hot process soap, it's important to use the right amount of fragrance oil to ensure your soap has a consistent scent and to avoid any performance issues. The amount of fragrance oil you'll need depends on the weight of the fats/oils in your recipe. A general rule of thumb is to use 15-20 grams of fragrance oil per kilogram of fats/oils. This translates to a fragrance oil usage rate of about 0.7-1 ounce per pound of oil.
It's worth noting that the strength of your fragrance oil and the type of oil you're using will also impact the amount you need. For example, essential oils like clove and cinnamon are very potent, so you would use a lower amount, around 0.5 ounces per pound of oil. On the other hand, some fragrance oils, like Cherry Almond, are quite strong, so you would use a lower amount, around 0.2 ounces per pound of soap.
To calculate the correct amount of fragrance oil, it's recommended to base it on the amount of base oil in your recipe rather than the total amount of soap, as water amounts can fluctuate. This ensures consistency in your final product. Additionally, some fragrance oils may interact differently with your recipe, so it's always a good idea to make a small test batch first and adjust as needed.
To enhance the scent of your hot process soap, you can consider using kaolin clay. It is believed to help retain fragrance by holding onto the fragrance oil, adding a subtle colour, and improving the texture of the soap. However, it's important to note that the effectiveness of kaolin clay in scent retention has not been extensively tested.
By using the right amount of fragrance oil and considering the above factors, you can create a well-scented, consistent batch of hot process soap.
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Prevent fragrance evaporation
When making hot process soap, adding the fragrance towards the end of the process is recommended to prevent fragrance evaporation. This is because the soap is normally cooling down at that point, so the scent is not exposed to active lye and will not evaporate as much.
Each fragrance and essential oil has a "flash point", the temperature at which the liquid can ignite with a flame. If a scent is heated to its flash point, it can cause the fragrance to fade. Therefore, it is important to add fragrances when the temperature is several degrees below the flash point.
To further prevent fragrance evaporation, you can:
- Store the soap in a cool, dry place that is not in direct sunlight.
- Use a cotton ball or paper towel: dip it in the fragrance or essential oil and place it by the soap while it's curing. This will help the soap absorb some of the scent as it cures.
- Use an "anchor" or "fixative" to store the scent and release it slower. Materials like arrowroot powder, powdered clays, or cornstarch can be added to the soap batter in reasonable amounts. However, some soap makers view this as a controversial practice, as it may not make a detectable difference and could be misleading to consumers.
- Blend essential oils with different evaporation rates. Top notes like citrus and floral scents evaporate quickly, while base notes like wood, resin, and spice scents last the longest. By combining different notes, the overall scent will last longer.
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Add colourants and additives first
When making hot process soap, it's important to consider the order in which you add your ingredients. Adding colourants and additives first, before the fragrance, gives you more control over the final product. Here are some tips to guide you through the process:
Firstly, select your colourants. You can choose from a wide range of natural or artificial colourants, such as herbs, flowers, clays, and natural ingredients, or opt for powdered colourants like micas, pigments, oxides, charcoal, or clays. These powdered colourants offer endless possibilities as they can be blended to create new hues and shades. If you're aiming for softer hues like pale pink or sky blue, consider adding Titanium Dioxide to your entire batch before dividing it into different colourants. This will give you a lighter base to work with and make your colours pop.
Next, prepare your colourants by adding them to a "solvent" before incorporating them into your soap mixture. While the term "solvent" is used loosely here, it simply refers to the liquid that colourants are added to. Popular choices include water, oil, or glycerin, but the choice is yours and may depend on your design preferences and the specific hot process soap-making method you're using.
Now, it's time to add your colourants and any other additives to your soap mixture. This step should be done before adding the fragrance to ensure the fragrance doesn't interfere with the colour or additives. Once you've added your colourants and additives, you can move on to the next step of adding the fragrance.
Remember, when working with fragrances, it's a good idea to make a small test batch first to see how the fragrance performs and adjust your recipe as needed. Additionally, always use the recommended amount of fragrance oil, which is typically 15-20 grams of fragrance oil per kilogram of fats/oils in your recipe for hot process soap.
By following these steps and adding colourants and additives first, you can create beautiful, colourful soaps with your desired fragrances without worrying about colour interference or unwanted reactions between ingredients.
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Use a whisk to mix
When adding fragrance to hot process soap, it is important to consider the type of fragrance oil being used, as some may be more prone to accelerating or seizing. To avoid these issues, it is recommended to use a whisk to mix the fragrance oil into the soap batter. Here are some detailed instructions on when and how to use a whisk to mix fragrance into hot process soap:
Firstly, it is important to prepare your fragrance oil. Mix an equal amount of fragrance oil with liquid oil from your batch. This helps to prevent the fragrance from cooling down the soap mixture when added. Microwave this mixture for about 20 seconds.
Next, add your colourants and other additives to the soap batter. It is recommended to add the fragrance at the last second before pouring the soap into the mould, as this gives you more time to work with the soap before it sets.
Now it is time to add the fragrance oil. Pour the heated fragrance oil mixture into the soap batter. Use a whisk to gently mix the fragrance oil into the soap. Avoid using a stick blender or electric whisk, as these can cause the soap to thicken and accelerate too quickly. Whisking by hand helps to prevent the soap from seizing up and gives you more control over the consistency.
If your soap batter starts to accelerate or thicken too quickly, you can switch to using a spoon. Try a layered or spoon plop design, which works well with thicker soap batters. You can also simply spoon the soap into the mould as quickly as possible. Tap the mould on the counter frequently to remove any air bubbles.
Finally, if you are having trouble with your fragrance oil, you can try adding it to your fats/oils before incorporating the caustic soda solution. This method works well with fragrances that are known to seize. However, you will still need to work quickly to get the soap into the mould before it sets.
By following these steps and using a whisk to mix, you can successfully add fragrance to your hot process soap while minimising the risk of seizing or acceleration.
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Frequently asked questions
You should add fragrance to hot process soap after it has cooked and the mixture has cooled slightly. This is to avoid the fragrance evaporating.
It is recommended that you add 15-20g of fragrance oil for every kilogram of fats/oils in your recipe.
You should add the fragrance by hand. Do not use electric whisks or blenders. Only stir enough to mix the fragrance, and then pour the mixture into a mould.
To prevent scent fading, you can use additives such as kaolin clay, colloidal oatmeal, or soft botanicals. These additives help to anchor the fragrance to your soap.
If your soap starts to heat up, stop using a stick blender and switch to a whisk. If the soap is too thick, try a spoon and a layered design, such as a "plop" design.














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