Polo's Fragrance History: A Timeline Of Scents

Ralph Lauren's Polo cologne was first launched in 1978, alongside the Lauren fragrance for women. The cologne was created by perfumer Carlos Benaïm, who is now regarded as one of America's greatest living perfumers.

The cologne has endured for over 40 years, withstanding the test of time in an era where colognes often come and go in mere months.

The scent is a chypre, a family of fragrances that is widely acknowledged as the most sophisticated and beautiful. Chypres are warm, dry, and mossy, with notes of citrus, labdanum, and bergamot. They are almost invariably musky with touches of woodiness, giving them a sensual, animal character.

The cologne has undergone reformulations over the years, with changes in ownership and the elimination of oakmoss from the fragrance industry. Despite this, Polo remains an iconic and enduring fragrance, with a rich base of leather, tobacco, patchouli, and oakmoss, balanced by a vibrant opening of basil, artemisia, vetiver, and thyme.

Polo's history

Ralph Lauren's Polo cologne, or 'Polo Green' as it is often referred to, is an iconic fragrance with a rich history. The cologne was first launched in 1978 by perfumer Carlos Benaïm, who is now regarded as one of America's greatest living perfumers. Born and raised in Morocco, Benaïm's North African roots have no doubt inspired his work, with the scent of Polo evoking pine trees, mimosas, and orange flowers.

The cologne is a chypre, a family of fragrances characterised by warm, dry, mossy scents with notes of citrus, labdanum, and bergamot. Chypres are almost always musky with touches of woodiness, giving them a sensual, animal character. Polo's chypre character is unapologetically masculine, with rich base notes of leather, tobacco, patchouli, and oakmoss. However, it is counterbalanced by a vibrant opening of basil, artemisia, vetiver, and thyme, with a refreshing spice of clove, coriander, and cumin.

The cologne has been passed down through generations of men's cologne connoisseurs and continues to charm young men and women today. Some have called it the "quintessential American male" scent.

The first Ralph Lauren fragrances were launched simultaneously in 1978, with the masculine Polo and the feminine Lauren Ralph Lauren. Over the years, the production of the cologne has changed hands a few times, with Warner-Lauren, Ltd, Cosmair, and L'Oréal all producing the scent at different times. Despite these changes, the look of the bottle has remained virtually unchanged.

Today, Polo is produced by Luxury Products, LLC, a subdivision of L'Oréal. While the scent has evolved over time, with the elimination of oakmoss from the fragrance industry being a significant change, Polo remains a beloved and enduring fragrance.

The man behind Polo

Ralph Lauren, the man behind Polo, is an American fashion designer who founded the Ralph Lauren Corporation in 1967. He started with men's ties at 28 years old and worked out of a single "drawer" in the Empire State Building. By 1969, Bloomingdale's was selling his men's line exclusively, and in 1971, he introduced a line of tailored shirts for women, marking the first time the polo player emblem was used.

In 1978, Ralph Lauren launched his first fragrances: Lauren for women and Polo for men. The latter was created by perfumer Carlos Benaïm, who is now regarded by many as America's greatest living perfumer. Benaïm was born and raised in Tangiers, Morocco, and his North African roots have inspired his work.

Polo is a chypre, a family of fragrances that is warm, dry, and mossy with notes of citrus, labdanum, and bergamot. It is unapologetically masculine, with base notes of leather, tobacco, patchouli, and oakmoss. However, it is not a heavy or stubborn masculinity, as the base notes are counterbalanced by a vibrant opening of basil, artemisia, vetiver, and thyme, with a refreshing spice of clove, coriander, and cumin.

The cologne has been passed down through generations of men's cologne connoisseurs and continues to charm young men and women every day. Some have even called it the "quintessential American male" scent.

The three eras of Polo

Ralph Lauren's Polo cologne has been a staple in the world of fragrances for over 40 years. Created by master perfumer Carlos Benaïm, it was first launched in 1978 alongside the women's fragrance, Lauren. This was the first time a designer introduced two fragrances – one for men and one for women – simultaneously.

The Warner/Lauren Era (1978-1984)

The first era of Polo cologne was produced by Warner-Lauren, Ltd, a company formed by Ralph Lauren and Warner Communications. The cologne was an instant hit, with its rich base notes of leather, tobacco, patchouli, and oakmoss, and vibrant opening of basil, artemisia, vetiver, and thyme.

The Cosmair Era (1984-2000)

In 1984, Warner Communications sold Polo to Cosmair, the American subdivision of French cosmetic giant L’Oreal. The Cosmair version of Polo is characterised by its distinctive "`wet moss`" scent, and is considered woodier and smokier than the Warner/Lauren version.

The L'Oreal Era (2000-present)

In 2000, Cosmair was folded back into L'Oreal, which continues to produce Polo fragrances today under the name Luxury Products, LLC. The modern-era Polo is brighter and pinier, and some consider it to be more synthetic-smelling than its predecessors. However, it still retains the iconic piney, smoky, and masculine scent that has made Polo a classic for over four decades.

The scent of Polo

The scent has been described as dark and dank, with notes reminiscent of a forest floor, a leather armchair, and freshly Pine-Sol'd high school gym. It is a strong, potent, and distinctive fragrance that has become a hot commodity on secondary markets.

Over the years, Polo has undergone several reformulations, with changes in ownership and the elimination of oakmoss from the fragrance industry due to its link to allergic reactions. Despite these changes, Polo has retained its core character and remains a beloved and recognisable scent.

The colour of the bottle, a deep green with a golden horseman, is instantly recognisable worldwide. The scent has a strong opening that gives way to a lush green chord, followed by a familiar powder-spicy and tart-woody heart. The drydown reveals a caustic Evernil, dry cedar wood, and a green suede-like isobutyl quinoline in combination with patchouli and a metallic musky chord.

Polo by Ralph Lauren is a timeless and iconic fragrance that has left an indelible mark on the world of perfumery.

The lasting power of Polo

Ralph Lauren's Polo cologne, launched in 1978, is a men's fragrance that has stood the test of time. With its rich base notes of leather, tobacco, patchouli, and oakmoss, this cologne evokes a sense of classic masculinity and tradition. Its longevity and staying power have made it a staple in the fragrance world, with generations of men continuing to cherish its strong and elegant scent.

The Roots of an Iconic Fragrance

The story of Polo begins with its creator, Carlos Benaïm, who is now regarded as America's greatest living perfumer. Born and raised in Morocco, Benaïm drew inspiration from the vibrant scents of his homeland, including orange blossoms, pine trees, and mimosas. This influence can be felt in Polo's unique blend of aromatics.

Benaïm's talent and passion for bold, experimental scents led him to create Polo as his first fragrance for Ralph Lauren. The result was a chypre, a family of fragrances known for their warm, dry, and mossy scents with notes of citrus, labdanum, and bergamot. Polo's chypre character, with its woody and musky accents, gives it a sensual and animalistic quality.

The Evolution of an Enduring Scent

Over the years, Polo has undergone reformulations, with different companies taking over its production. From 1978 to 1984, it was produced by Warner-Lauren, Ltd. Then, from 1984 to 2000, it was manufactured by Cosmair, the American subdivision of French cosmetic giant L'Oréal. Since 2000, L'Oréal, under the name Luxury Products, LLC, has continued to produce Polo fragrances.

While the scent has remained largely unchanged, subtle differences can be detected by fragrance enthusiasts. The Warner and Cosmair versions are often collectively referred to as the "vintage era," characterized by their green, mossy scent. The modern-era fragrance, on the other hand, is brighter and piney, with some noting a more synthetic smell.

The key factor contributing to the changing character of Polo is the elimination of oakmoss, a central ingredient in chypre fragrances. Due to its link to allergic reactions, oakmoss has been largely regulated out of the fragrance industry, resulting in a noticeable shift in Polo's profile.

The Enduring Appeal of Polo

Despite the reformulations and the passage of time, Polo continues to captivate new generations of cologne connoisseurs. Its unapologetically masculine scent, with a vibrant opening of basil, artemisia, vetiver, and thyme, strikes a chord with those seeking a bold and elegant fragrance. The rich base notes provide a deep, resonant voice that speaks of strength and tradition.

Generations of men have found their iconic scent in Polo, and its endurance in the fragrance world is a testament to its timeless appeal. With its rich history, evolving character, and enduring popularity, Polo continues to be a legendary cologne that stands the test of time.

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