The Evolution Of Women's Scents: 1960S Fragrances

The 1960s was a time of liberation and change, and this was reflected in the fragrances that were popular during the decade. The commercial fragrance market boomed, with consumers buying designer perfumes and discovering new drugstore fragrances. The era saw a mix of enduring classics and new introductions, with gendered advertising becoming more prominent. This paragraph will explore the popular women's colognes of the 1960s, a decade that left an enduring mark on the world of perfume.

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche

Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent is a floral aldehyde fragrance for women, created in 1970 by perfumer Michel Hy. Its name, 'Left Bank', refers to the left side of the river Seine in Paris, an intellectual, hip and slightly more bohemian area where the YSL boutique is located. Rive Gauche is a scent for free and independent women, who are gracious inhabitants of the city, loving the sun and wind, but also quintessentially metropolitan.

The perfume was launched in 1971 and is classified as a flowery scent, recommended for casual wear. Rive Gauche's top notes are aldehydes, green notes, honeysuckle, bergamot, peach and lemon; middle notes are rose, iris, ylang-ylang, geranium, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, magnolia and gardenia; base notes are oakmoss, Tahitian vetiver, musk, sandalwood, tonka bean and amber.

The Rive Gauche bottle is described as iconic, a sleek, cold, can-shaped design, with blue and silver stripes. Rive Gauche is a unique, clean, crisp fragrance, not too floral, and has great longevity. It is a classic French fragrance, though not always available for purchase.

Tuvache Oh! de London

The fragrance was originally introduced under the Yardley brand and was later acquired by Tuvache. The Tuvache version added a vanilla note to the original formula, resulting in a powdery, light, and inoffensive scent that stayed close to the skin. The original Yardley version, on the other hand, was described as more oriental and powdery, with a stronger floral chypre character.

The Tuvache Oh! de London fragrance was a symbol of its time, capturing the spirit of the swinging sixties with its combination of floral and woody notes. It was considered a "hip" and "happening" scent, setting itself apart from more traditional perfumes. The cologne was presented in a vertically striped cylindrical spray bottle, reflecting the mod culture of the time with its bright and bold design.

Today, the original formula of Tuvache Oh! de London is highly sought-after by perfume collectors and can command a small fortune if one is lucky enough to find it. The fragrance continues to be sold under the Tuvache brand, offering a wonderful, feminine scent with a complex signature.

Floral fragrances

The 1960s saw a boom in the commercial fragrance market, with consumers buying designer perfumes and exploring the world of drugstore fragrances. This was partly due to increased access to fragrances as air travel became more common, allowing people to purchase duty-free perfumes. The rise of television advertising also played a significant role in promoting and selling fragrances to the public.

The 1960s marked a shift in the fragrance industry, as the beauty industry began heavily promoting scents specifically for women, separating itself from the previous era where all fragrances were considered unisex. The youth of this decade also moved away from the sophisticated fragrances worn by their parents, instead favouring scents rooted in oriental culture.

Diorissimo by Dior (1956)

Diorissimo, launched in the 1950s, remained a popular choice for women in the 1960s. It captured the "second skin" aspect of musky perfumes with its fresh, green, and lightweight composition. The fragrance featured gorgeous florals at its heart, with lily-of-the-valley being the most prominent, making it perfect for daytime wear. Other floral notes included ylang-ylang, amaryllis, boronia, and jasmine.

Arpege by Lanvin (1927)

Arpege, introduced in the 1920s, experienced a resurgence in popularity during the 1960s. It retained the lightweight, elegant nature of floral scents while infusing rich, oriental notes. This full-bodied aldehydic floriental fragrance was sweet, woody, and bright, making it suitable for both daytime and evening wear. The top notes included aldehydes, lily-of-the-valley, honeysuckle, neroli, and bergamot, while the heart revealed a blend of jasmine, ylang-ylang, geranium, iris, and rose. The base notes were creamy sandalwood, warm amber, clean musk, and earthy patchouli.

Caleche by Hermes (1961)

Hermes' first-ever fragrance for women, Caleche, was an instant hit with sophisticated ladies of the 1960s. This floral aldehydic fragrance was lightweight and fresh, yet left a prominent trail. With bright citruses like bergamot and orange blossom at the top, the scent settled into a combination of sensual jasmine and rich ylang-ylang. The base notes of cedarwood and oakmoss added depth and a touch of luxury.

Madame Rochas by Helene Rochas (1960)

Madame Rochas, the first perfume named after a living woman, was launched in 1960 and became a popular fragrance of the decade. Inspired by Chanel No. 5, it offered a modern take on the classic fragrance with a base note of musk that emerged after half an hour of wear. Madame Rochas was a floral aldehyde perfume with a complex blend of florals and a woody musk base. The top notes included aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, and neroli, while the heart was an exotic blend of jasmine, rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, violet, and narcissus. The base featured creamy sandalwood, earthy vetiver, and warm musk.

Oh! De London by Tuvache (1962)

Oh! De London, created by Yardley under the brand Tuvache, was a bright and fresh fragrance that was immensely popular with younger people in the 1960s. It had a beautiful floral scent, with notes of lily-of-the-valley, rose, and jasmine, along with heliotrope and iris for a powdery accord. The brightly coloured bottle perfectly captured the vibe of the swinging sixties.

Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent (1970)

Although launched in 1970, Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent deserves a mention as it symbolised the changing times and the liberation of women. This floral perfume allowed women to feel independent and free, embodying the spirit of the late 1960s.

Drugstore fragrances

The 1960s was a decade of change and counterculture, and this was reflected in the fragrances that gained popularity. The commercial fragrance market boomed, with people buying designer perfumes and discovering drugstore fragrances. Drugstores relied on television and print advertising, as well as word of mouth, to promote their fragrances. The rise of television as a marketing tool was significant, with more money spent on television advertisements for drugstore fragrances than their designer counterparts. Drugstore fragrances were beautifully constructed and made available to a wide market.

Some of the most popular drugstore fragrances for women in the 1960s included:

• Jean Nate by Charles of the Ritz: The most famous American drugstore fragrance ever, known for its unique and memorable scent.
• Babe, Charlie, Windsong, and Enjoli by Coty: Coty produced more than ten classics in the 1960s, including these well-loved fragrances that became instant classics.
• Cachet by Charles of the Ritz: Another popular fragrance from the Charles of the Ritz line, offering a unique scent experience.
• Skin Musk by Bonne Bell: A simple and elegant "you, but better" scent that was popular among hippies and flower children, embracing the oriental philosophies of the decade.
• Oh! De London by Tuvache: A bright, fresh fragrance that was a favourite among younger people, with a beautifully coloured bottle that matched the vibe of the decade.
• Diorissimo by Dior: Launched in 1956, this fragrance remained popular in the 1960s for its fresh, green, and lightweight feel, capturing the "second skin" aspect of musky perfumes.
• Caleche by Hermes: The first fragrance for women by Hermes, launched in 1961, offering a lightweight, fresh, and floral aldehydic scent with incredible sillage.
• Madame Rochas by Helene Rochas: The first perfume named after a living woman, launched in 1960, inspired by Chanel No. 5 but with a modern feel and a base note of musk.
• Arpege by Lanvin: Introduced in the 1920s but highly popular in the 1960s, this full-bodied floral-oriental scent was brighter, subtly woody, and lasted longer than its predecessor, Chanel No. 5.
• Youth Dew by Estée Lauder: Introduced as an Eau de Parfum in the 1960s, this fragrance stood out from the lighter fragrances of the time with its strong, long-lasting oriental aroma and spicy top notes.

These drugstore fragrances offered a range of scents, from light and floral to rich and extravagant, capturing the spirit of the swinging '60s and the desire for freedom and change.

Musk

Drugstore fragrances were all the rage in the 1960s, and several popular brands at the time, including Bonne Bell, Jovan, and Coty, offered musk-based fragrances. These fragrances were simple, affordable, and beautifully constructed, and they relied heavily on television and print advertising to reach their target audience.

One of the most iconic musk fragrances of the 1960s was Musk by Alyssa Ashley, launched in 1969. This fragrance celebrated the oriental philosophies of the decade and contained over one hundred of the world's finest ingredients. The scent was warm and sensual, with woody and floral notes, and citruses in the background adding a playful touch. The opening notes were characterised by bergamot, while the heart was composed of ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, and geranium. The base notes of musk, tonka bean, and iris made this fragrance undeniably alluring. Alyssa Ashley marketed this perfume as unisex, and it became a runaway success.

Another popular musk fragrance of the time was Jovan Musk. This scent, like others in the 1960s, was simple and affordable, and it fit perfectly with the hippie and flower child culture of the time.

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