The First Splash: A History Of Men's Cologne

The history of cologne is a rich and fragrant one. For millennia, humanity has been obsessed with smelling good, and the art of crafting scents began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt. However, the first men's cologne didn't appear until the 20th century.

In 1934, Caron founder Ernest Daltroff created the first fragrance for men, simply called Pour Un Homme (For a Man). Before this, men could choose between unisex eau de cologne or English lavender scents. Pour Un Homme featured an accord of lavender and vanilla over a musky amber and cedarwood base, and was a huge success.

The history of cologne is also tied to the development of hygiene and sanitation practices. In ancient times, fragrances were often used to mask body odours and protect against disease, but with advancements in hygiene, colognes became more about aesthetic and sensual experiences.

The first men's cologne

The concept of perfume has existed for thousands of years, with ancient civilisations such as Mesopotamia and Egypt experimenting with scents. However, the first men's cologne was created much more recently, in the 20th century.

For centuries, perfume was unisex, with no distinction between the gestures or compositions used by men and women. The hygienic and medical functions of perfume were of prime importance, used to mask bad smells and protect the wearer from disease. Citrus, floral and herbal scents were popular, with the Eau de Cologne, created by Giovanni Maria Farina in 1709, revolutionising the industry. Napoleon was one of its most loyal ambassadors, and the scent was a favourite among European royalty.

However, it wasn't until the 20th century that men's perfumery began to emerge as its own distinct category. In 1904, Aimé Guerlain released the fragrance Mouchoir de Monsieur, which was the first to be explicitly marketed as masculine. Then, in the 1930s, the first men's eaux de toilette appeared, with fresh and aromatic scents of vetiver and lavender.

The birth of men's perfumery as a distinct category was driven by a desire to create unique, identifiable scents that projected virility and dominance. This trend continued into the 1980s, with men's fragrances becoming increasingly powerful and full-bodied. It was only in the 1990s, with the emergence of the metrosexual trend and the growing acceptance of men taking care of themselves, that compositions became fresher and lighter.

Today, the distinction between men's and women's fragrances is becoming increasingly blurred, with many men embracing floral and powdery notes that were once considered solely feminine. The market for masculine fragrances continues to evolve, with new olfactory innovations and a growing appetite for olfactory novelty.

The history of perfume

The use of perfume has been a part of human history for thousands of years, with ancient civilisations such as Mesopotamia and Egypt experimenting with scents. However, it was only around 2,000 BC that perfume became a trade, with some arguing that perfumers in Southern Asia had been working for even longer. The world's first recorded chemist was Tapputi, a perfume maker mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the 2nd millennium BC in Mesopotamia.

Ancient Times

During antiquity and the Middle Ages, both men and women used perfume without any gender distinction. The hygienic and medical functions of perfume were of prime importance, used to mask bad smells and protect against disease. Opulent compositions based on amber or civet were favoured by both sexes, and scented waters based on citrus fruits, flowers, or herbs were rubbed onto the body.

The Ancient Egyptians are often credited with the origins of perfume as they invented glass and were the first to store perfumes in bottles. They used fragrances for ceremonies and burials, as well as daily wear among the elite. Egyptian fragrances were usually composed of myrrh, frankincense, and native flowers such as lily and rose. This practice was later adopted by the Persians.

The Greeks and Romans

The Ancient Greeks and Romans further refined the art of perfumery. The word "perfume" is derived from the Latin "through smoke". Romans even developed aftershave, which was an antiseptic and anaesthetic concoction made with medicinal herbs and spices.

The Middle East

The Middle East played a significant role in the history of perfumery, with Babylonian Mesopotamia being a key centre. The world's first recorded chemist, Tapputi, worked at the Mesopotamian Royal Palace around 1200 BC and developed advanced perfumery techniques, including distillation and cold enfleurage.

The Rise of Christianity and Islam

With the rise of Christianity, the use of perfumes declined. However, the Arabs preserved the practice for daily wear and religious practices. From the 6th to the 10th centuries, Islam brought innovations to perfume culture, including steam distillation techniques and new raw materials.

India

India also has a long history of perfumery, with archaeologists discovering terracotta distillation equipment in the Indus Valley carbon-dated to 3000 BC, suggesting that essential oil extraction by distillation was discovered by the Indus civilisation long before other regions.

Europe

Europeans eventually mastered perfumery, largely thanks to Arabic influence. In the 14th century, Queen Elisabeth of Hungary commissioned the first modern perfume, known as Eau de Hongrie (Hungary Water). This fragrance became the blueprint for eau de toilette.

During the Renaissance, perfumery spread across Europe, particularly in France. In 1709, Italian expatriate Giovanni Maria Farina created a scent called Eau de Cologne to honour his new hometown of Cologne, Germany. This fragrance, with its fresh notes of citrus, flowers, and herbs, was a contrast to the heavier scents favoured at the time. Eau de Cologne soon became a favourite among royalty and spread throughout Europe.

The Modern Age

The Industrial Revolution brought about modern perfumery, with new scientific discoveries leading to the creation of synthetic aromatic compounds and improved extraction techniques. Fragrances became cheaper and more accessible, and with advances in hygiene, they took on a new role as an aesthetic and sensual experience.

While the use of perfume was once unisex, the 20th century saw the emergence of distinct men's fragrances. In 1934, Caron founder Ernest Daltroff created the first fragrance specifically for men, "Pour Un Homme". This new market flourished, with brands such as Old Spice, Chanel, and Guerlain launching popular men's colognes.

Today, the distinction between men's and women's fragrances remains strong, particularly in the West. However, there is a growing trend towards unisex fragrances, and men are increasingly embracing a wider range of scents, including floral and powdery fragrances traditionally associated with women.

The origins of perfume

Perfumes have been used for almost as long as humanity has existed. The art of crafting scents began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt, and was then refined by the Romans and Persians. The world's first recorded chemist was Tapputi, a perfume maker mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the 2nd millennium BCE in Mesopotamia. She developed advanced perfumery techniques with distillation, cold enfleurage, tincture and solvents.

Ancient Egypt

The Egyptians adopted incense with fervour, experimenting with a wide range of ingredients, including myrrh, frankincense, native flowers such as lily and rose, and even creating their own concoctions, such as kyphi, a paste made from 16 ingredients. They also invented glass and were the first to store perfumes in bottles.

Greece and Rome

The ancient Greeks were perhaps the first to turn perfume into a wearable liquid, with public and private displays of perfume application. Theophrastus wrote Concerning Odors, a precursor to modern botany textbooks, and Hippocrates focused on aromatherapy as a medical treatment. The Romans took this a step further, with Emperor Nero installing perfume-specific plumbing in his palace so he could douse his guests in rosewater.

The Middle East

The Middle East was probably the most significant geographical area for perfumery. In the 8th century, Muslim scientists ushered in a golden age of innovation, including the invention of distillation. The Persian alchemist Abu Musa Jabir ibn Hayyan is generally credited with the invention of the alembic still, which enabled a cleaner, more refined approach to perfume production.

Return to Europe

Crusaders returning from Arabia brought Persian perfume and its production methods back to Europe. The first alcohol-based perfume made in Europe was Hungary Water, formulated for the Queen of Hungary in the 14th century.

Renaissance Italy

Rene the Florentine, Catherine de' Medici's personal perfumer, brought his knowledge of the craft to France in the 1600s, and the country quickly became the European centre of perfume manufacture.

Eau de Cologne

In 1709, Giovanni Maria Farina created a scent in Cologne, Germany, using essences of flowers diluted with alcohol. The fresh, citrusy and floral scent was intended for both men and women to use, and it became a favourite of royal houses across Europe.

Modern men's fragrances

Although perfume was used by both men and women for thousands of years, the first fragrance marketed specifically for men was created in 1934 by Caron founder Ernest Daltroff, who named it simply "Pour Un Homme".

The evolution of men's fragrances

Ancient Times to the Middle Ages

Perfumes and fragrances have been used for thousands of years, almost as long as humanity has existed. The art of crafting scents is believed to have originated in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt, where people experimented with different scents for religious and cosmetic purposes. During this time, there was no gender distinction when it came to perfume use, and both men and women used fragrant waters based on citrus fruits, flowers, or herbs.

Renaissance to the 19th Century

Perfumery came to Europe in the 14th century, with the first European alcohol-based perfume, "Hungary Water," being formulated in Hungary. In the 1600s, Rene the Florentine, personal perfumer to Catherine de' Medici, brought his knowledge of the craft to France, making it the European center of perfume manufacture.

In the 18th century, perfume use flourished under the reign of Louis XV, and later, Napoleon. It was during this time that the term "Eau de Cologne" was coined by Italian ex-pat Giovanni Maria Farina, who created a special scent to honor his new hometown of Cologne, Germany. This unisex fragrance, with its fresh and citrusy notes, became a favorite among royalty and spread throughout Europe.

20th Century to Present

The 20th century marked a significant shift in the world of men's fragrances. Until then, men primarily relied on unisex Eau de Cologne or traditional English lavenders. However, the first fragrance created specifically for men, "Pour Un Homme," was launched in 1934 by Caron founder Ernest Daltroff. This scent featured an accord of lavender and vanilla over a musky amber and cedarwood base, and its success created an entirely new market for men's fragrances.

Following World War II, men's fragrances continued to evolve, with brands such as Chanel, German house Mäurer & Wirtz, and the house of Dana creating scents that moved away from the traditional aftershave function and transitioned into the world of colognes and fragrances.

The 1970s saw a boom in men's perfumery, with the rise of hippie culture and sexual liberation. Men embraced a variety of scents, including patchouli and powerful woody notes, moving beyond the traditional "clean" and "fresh" fragrances.

In the 1980s, men's fragrances became bolder and more full-bodied, reflecting a desire to establish virility and dominance. By the 1990s, with the emergence of the gay community and the metrosexual trend, freshness and lightness returned to the compositions, and unisex fragrances gained popularity once again.

Today, the distinction between men's and women's fragrances is becoming blurred, and men are embracing a wider range of scents, including floral and powdery notes. The market for men's fragrances continues to evolve, with new advances in molecule extraction and a growing interest in natural fragrances.

The future of men's fragrances

The first men's cologne in history was created in 1934 by Caron founder Ernest Daltroff. He named it "Pour Un Homme" (French for "For A Man"), and it featured an accord of lavender and vanilla over a musky amber and cedarwood base.

Return to Unisex Fragrances:

Men's colognes are no longer limited to conventionally masculine scents such as oriental or fougère notes. Many younger fragrance houses are embracing the return to unisex fragrances, fashionably labelled as "gender benders." This trend reflects a broader shift towards inclusivity and diversity in the beauty industry.

Natural Fragrances:

With new advances in molecule extraction from natural sources, a renaissance in natural fragrances is on the horizon. This trend aligns with the growing consumer interest in sustainable and eco-friendly products.

Status-Symbol Scents:

Social media will continue to fuel interest in status-symbol scents. Luxury fragrance houses will cater to consumers' desire for exclusivity and prestige, with unique and innovative offerings.

Micro-Trend Sampling:

The rise of social media and the influence of influencers will drive the demand for smaller, sample-sized fragrances. Consumers will be eager to try out the latest trends and experiment with different scents without committing to a full-sized bottle.

Health and Wellness:

Fragrances that promote wellness and self-care will gain popularity. Scents that are designed to enhance mood, reduce stress, or promote weight management will appeal to consumers who are increasingly focused on their overall health and well-being.

Customisation and Personalisation:

With consumers seeking unique and personalised experiences, fragrance brands will offer more opportunities for customisation. This could include made-to-measure fragrances, allowing customers to create their own signature scent.

Experiential Retail:

Fragrance brands will focus on creating immersive and multi-sensory experiences in their stores. By engaging customers' senses and inviting them to explore and discover, brands will foster a deeper connection with their audience.

Sustainable Practices:

As consumers become more conscious of the environmental impact of their purchases, fragrance brands will need to adopt sustainable practices. This includes using ethically sourced ingredients, reducing waste, and incorporating recyclable packaging.

Digital Engagement:

The fragrance industry will continue to embrace digital technologies to reach and engage consumers. From online fragrance consultations to augmented reality tools that allow customers to "try on" scents virtually, the digital landscape will play a significant role in the future of men's fragrances.

Exploration of New Notes:

Fragrance houses will continue to explore new and unexpected notes, pushing the boundaries of what is considered masculine or feminine in perfumery. This will create a more diverse and inclusive range of options for consumers.

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