Lance Carson
The world of fragrances is vast, with an infinite number of olfactory notes and combinations. To simplify the process for shoppers, fragrances are classified into families, with the four most common being woody, floral, fresh, and amber or oriental. These families are further broken down into subfamilies, with distinctive characteristics, and are placed on a fragrance wheel invented by scent expert Michael Edwards. The fragrance wheel illustrates the four scent families in relation to their corresponding subfamilies, with families that share common olfactory characteristics placed next to one another. In addition to the scent families, there are different types of fragrances based on the concentration of perfume oils, which determines the strength of the fragrance and how long it lasts. The types of fragrances based on concentration include perfume oil, Eau Fraiche, Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette, and Eau de Parfum.
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What You'll Learn
Fragrance concentration and strength
The strength of a perfume is determined by the concentration of fragrance oils in the fragrance. The higher the concentration of oils, the longer the scent will last on your skin. The concentration also affects the price point for the perfume. The majority of perfumes are either eau de parfum or eau de toilette in their concentration levels.
Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Eau de parfum contains between 10% and 20% of perfume oil. It is a popular choice with both perfume brands and customers. Eau de parfum will generally last around 4 to 8 hours. It is also the most common variant in perfumery today, and almost every perfume line has its eau de parfum edition.
Eau de Toilette (EDT)
Eau de toilette contains around 5% to 15% of perfume oil. Eau de toilette fragrances often have a quick burst of beautiful smells before fading, meaning they can make a great first impression. They are a great choice for a daytime fragrance. Eau de toilette will generally last somewhere between 2 and 7 hours.
Eau de Cologne (EDC)
Eau de cologne has a lower level of concentration than eau de toilette, at around 2% to 5% perfume oil. It is a much lighter choice and is often used as a body splash to freshen up at regular intervals. Eau de cologne doesn't last long; perhaps around 2 to 3 hours.
Eau Fraiche
The lightest concentration available, eau fraiche contains only 1% to 3% perfume oil. It is perfect for those who don’t want a heavy scent and will only last a couple of hours at best, but it is great for creating a subtle, delicate fragrance.
Perfume or Extrait de Parfum
This has the highest concentration of essential oils or “perfume extract”, with around 20% to 30% essential oils in the fragrance blend. It is the most expensive category of perfume due to the higher concentrations of oils. It is usually heavier and oilier, and it is said to last up to 24 hours. It is recommended for people with sensitive skin, as there is less alcohol in the blend.
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Floral scent family
The floral scent family is one of the most common and popular fragrance families. It is also the richest and broadest family of perfumes. Floral fragrances are usually associated with women's fragrances, although they are sometimes used in men's perfumes as well. They are perfect for spring and summertime and smell like fresh-cut flowers or have a powdery note. Floral fragrances can range from being light and delicate to more complex and intense.
Floral fragrances are often described as "figurative" or "abstract" notes, and are usually very different from each other. It is impossible to love all floral fragrances, as their scents are varied and specific. It is common to be drawn to a particular category of flowers. In perfumery, there are also "soliflores" or "floral bouquets". These floral notes can be found in all olfactory families and are more likely to be found as heart notes in a perfume.
Flowers of renewal, or spring flowers, are an example of flowers that are used in perfumery. However, many of them are "mute flowers", whose scent will then have to be reconstituted using other natural materials and synthetic products. Flowers such as mimosa, which has a small accent of violet and a powdery, almond scent, can be quite complicated to work with in perfumery. It must be treated by extraction with volatile solvents.
The Michelia alba variety of magnolia, a tree native to the Far East, is another flower used in perfumery. It is harvested from May to June and from August to November. The note is floral and has an important “citrus” facet. Its lemony freshness is tinged with green notes, giving way to hints of vanilla in a soft and sunny floral facet.
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Woody scent family
Woody fragrances are characterised by their woody character with notes coming from wood materials like trees, resins, moss, bark, pine cones and bushes, as well as roots, grasses and leaves. Woody scents tend to be rich, warm and earthy, often forming the base of a scent due to their aromatic weight. They are usually paired with aromatic, citrus or floral top notes.
The woody fragrance family is one of the most diverse and dominant families, and is popular all year round, but particularly well-suited to the colder months. Woody fragrances are long-lasting, aromatic and elegant, and can be worn all day. They are also versatile, classic and sophisticated. Woody cologne is especially popular for men, due to the heavy nature of the fragrance family and its tendency to smell typically masculine.
Woody fragrances can be given a twist by adding fruity notes, florals, herbs and spices which can then be categorised into subfamilies, for example, Woody Oriental, Woody Leather, Woody Chypre, Woody Aromatic, Woody Floral, Woody Fruity and Woody Spicy. Woody Oriental, for instance, could be a blend of rich oriental notes, with woody notes such as patchouli and sandalwood. Woody Leather, on the other hand, is drier and smokier in character with the addition of cedar, tobacco and burnt wood notes, as well as fresh citrus notes to lighten the deep heart notes. Woody Chypre perfumes feature notes of oakmoss, amber and citrus.
The woody family includes scents that are warm and opulent, mixing incense-like fragrances like sandalwood and patchouli with drier notes like cedar. Woody fragrances can be extremely grounding, with a smell that closely imitates nature.
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Fresh scent family
The fresh scent family is commonly associated with light, sparkling, bright, and clean aromas. This fragrance family is known for its airy and refreshing quality. It is defined by zingy, aromatic compositions backed by underlying woody notes. The fresh scent family is more commonly used in men's fragrances than in women's.
The fresh fragrance profile consists of a wide variety of citrus, aquatic, green, and fruity aromatic combinations. Citrus notes such as lemon, bergamot, mandarin, and grapefruit are dominant in this family, along with tangy and zesty notes. Aquatic scents like sea salt, rain, and ocean breezes also fall into this category.
Refreshing green aromas are a part of the fresh scent family, reminiscent of herbal and leafy scents for a crisp and uplifting smell. They can be referred to as aromatic fougère fragrances, created with notes of lavender, rosemary, or basil. Oceanic is the newest category in perfume history, appearing in 1991, and is known for its clean and modern androgynous smell.
Fruity notes in the fresh scent family include ripe and edible fruit scents like peach, pear, apple, kiwi, and pineapple. These fruity notes first gained popularity in the 1990s, known for their fun and full-of-character vibe. Aromatic fragrances in this family are clean and fresh, combining herbs with lavender or woody scents.
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Citrus-based fragrances
Citrus perfumes are perfect for the spring and summer months, evoking images of orange groves and gardens full of lemon trees. They can be paired with other body care products to create a cohesive fragrance that will leave a lasting impression. One popular citrus perfume is Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle, which combines citrus and floral notes for a fresh yet powdery scent.
Citrus fragrances can also be found in candles and other scented products. For example, Tom Ford's Soleil Blanc is a popular citrus-based Eau de Parfum. When choosing a citrus fragrance, it is important to consider the strength and how long it will last. Eau de Parfum (EDP) is the strongest type, containing 10-20% perfume oil and lasting around 8 hours. Eau de Toilette (EDT) is slightly lighter, with 5-15% perfume oil and a duration of 4 to 7 hours.
The fragrance wheel, invented by scent expert Michael Edwards, categorizes citrus scents as part of the "'Fresh' family, which also includes aromatic, green, and water notes. The Fresh family is characterized by zingy, aromatic compositions with underlying woody notes. Individuals often gravitate towards certain scent families, and the fragrance wheel helps in understanding which families and subfamilies complement each other.
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Frequently asked questions
W, or Eau de Cologne, is a light fragrance with a low concentration of essential oils or perfume extracts, typically between 2% and 5%. It is often considered a masculine scent but is also available in feminine variations.
Due to its low concentration of oils, fragrance W typically lasts up to 2 hours, making it ideal for regular use throughout the day.
Fragrance W is characterised by refreshing, zesty, and vibrant citrus notes, including lemon, mandarin, and bergamot. It often includes aquatic notes like sea spray, contributing to its fresh and invigorating scent profile.
